Friday, October 31, 2008

Canary Dog - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Medium

Height: 55 - 65 cm (21.5 - 25.5 inches)

Weight: 38 - 48 kg (84 - 106 lb)

Life Span: 11 years

Grooming: Undemanding

Exercise: Demanding

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Fearless & protective

Country of Origin: Canary Islands

AKC Group: Not registered

Other Names: Presa Canario

Temperament:

The Canary Dog is protective, dominant, fearless and loyal. Canary Dogs are exceptional home guardians, that are truly devoted to their family. These dogs need to have an experienced owner who understands the dominant nature of this breed and who can provide proper training and socialization. Canary Dogs can be dangerous without the right handler, as they can become aggressive towards strangers and other dogs. The Canary Dog is very loyal and will not hesitate to attack anyone who threatens its owner or family. If Canary Dogs are raised correctly then they make docile and well-behaved household pets.

Grooming:

Canary Dogs are easy to groom and low maintenance. They are average shedders and an occasional brush is sufficient to remove the dead hairs. To bring out the natural shine of the coat, Canary Dogs should be wiped down with a rough cloth or chamois.

Exercise:

Canary Dogs need a decent amount of daily exercise. This breed should be kept on a leash unless within a controlled environment to prevent any aggressive interactions with other dogs. They enjoy running alongside a cycle to burn energy.

History:

The Canary dog was developed specifically for dog fighting in the Canary Islands during the 1800s. It is likely that its ancestry includes the local breed, the Bardino Majero (now extinct) crossed with the imported English Mastiffs. Dog fighting was a popular form of entertainment and often took place in pits or rings on the Islands. When dog fighting became illegal, the numbers of Canary Dogs rapidly decreased until they were almost extinct by the 1960s. This breed was revived by the American veterinarian Dr. Carl Semencic.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Powerful, intimidating and well proportioned.

Color: Fawn or brindle with or without white markings.

Coat: Short, rough and flat with a harsh texture. The hair is slightly longer on the withers and rump.

Tail: Tapered and carried high when in action and hanging down at rest.

Ears: Set high and erect if cropped. Natural ears are of medium size, hanging and can be rose shaped.

Body: The body is longer than tall with a deep, broad chest extending to the elbows. The topline is straight and the croup is wide and should not be long. The belly is slightly tucked up and the ribs are well-sprung.

Additional Comments:

The Canary Dog is not suitable for first time dog owners and it is essential that these dogs have early training and socialization. They should be exposed to a variety of animals, people and situations during puppyhood to help prevent dominant or aggressive behaviors becoming a problem once fully grown.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/canary_dog/

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Central Asian Ovtcharka - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Very large

Height: 60 - 71 cm (23 - 28 inches)

Weight: 37 - 50 kg (80 - 110 lb)

Life Span: 11 years

Grooming: Easy

Exercise: Demanding

Feeding: Demanding

Temperament: Independent & fearless

Country of Origin: Russia & Central Asian Republics

AKC Group: Not registered

Other Names: Middle Asian Ovtcharka, Mid-Asian Shepherd, Central Asian Sheepdog, Central Asian Shepherd Dog, Alabai, Turkmen Alabai, Sredneasiatskaïa Ovtcharka, Asiatic Mastiff

Temperament:

The Central Asian Ovtcharka is fearless, independent, calm, protective and territorial. Central Asian Ovtcharkas tend to be strong-minded with natural protective instincts for their family and property. They get along well with all members of their family but are suspicious of strangers and should be supervised when around unfamiliar children. It is extremely important that Central Asian Ovtcharkas are socialized from an early age with different animals and people for them to make good household pets. They should get along with other dogs and household animals, provided that they are not perceived as a threat. Central Asian Ovtcharkas need a handler that understands their temperaments and can provide firm training to avoid them becoming overly dominant.

Grooming:

Central Asian Ovtcharkas can either be the short-haired variety or long-haired variety. Obviously the long-haired type requires more grooming, but generally this breed is easy to groom and maintain. The coat allows any dirt to be brushed out easily once it is dry. These dogs shed heavily in spring and need extra brushing during this time to remove the loose hairs.

Exercise:

These dogs need a large area of space in which they can exercise and roam freely. If they do not have adequate space they can become bored and start chewing or digging. Central Asian Ovtcharkas are territorial and need to be kept in a well-fenced property as they will extend their territory as far as they can. They prefer to live outdoors so they can watch over their territory, but they can happily adapt to living in the home. Central Asian Ovtcharkas can be good jogging/walking companions.

History:

These fearless and bold herders have been used as guard dogs for livestock in Central Asia for hundreds or possibly thousands of years. Rather harsh natural selection helped develop this breed, as only the the hardiest puppies that survived the extreme climates were allowed to stay with the flocks. The Central Asian Ovtcharka is likely to have descended from the Asian Mastiffs and is a close relative of the Caucasian Sheepdog.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Muscular and powerful with massive bone structure.

Color: Black, grey, reddish-brown, brindle, straw-colored, grey-brown, parti-colored or ticked.

Coat: Two coat types are accepted: (1) The short-haired variety which is 1.5 -2 inches in length, or (2) The long-haired variety which is 2.75 - 3 inches in length with extra hair on th ears, neck, tail and on the back of the hind legs. Both varieties are double coated with long, coarse outer guard hairs and a dense, soft undercoat.

Tail: Set high, tapering and carried above the level of the back when in action. Docking is optional.

Ears: Set low, small, pendant, triangular and cropping is optional.

Body: The body is a slightly longer then tall with a strong, moderately long back. The ribs are well-sprung and let down to the elbow or slightly below. The chest is deep and broad and the topline declines slightly downwards. The loin is muscular, short, broad and slightly arched and the croup is long, muscular and broad.

Additional Comments:

Central Asian Ovtcharkas are natural guardians and they like to bark at night, which may be problematic if neighbours are within close proximity.

Central Asian Ovtcharkas are found in Iran, Tadjikistan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, Kirgyzstan, Turkmenistan, but are still very rare within the United States.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/central_asian_ovtcharka/

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Australian Silky Terrier - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small

Height: About 23 cm (9 inches)

Weight: 3.6 - 4.5 kg (8 - 10 lb)

Life Span: 14 years

Grooming: Medium

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Undemanding

Temperament: Friendly & alert

Country of Origin: Australia

AKC Group: Toy

Other Names: Australian Silky Terrier, Sidney Silky

Temperament:

The Silky Terrier is friendly, affectionate, intelligent and alert. Silky Terriers are ideally suited as household pets for both children and the elderly. They thrive on praise, but can become possessive of the family. Silky Terriers are full of character and can produce a lot of noise for their small size.

Grooming:

The longer coat of the Silky Terrier does require regular grooming and occasional trimming to keep it looking at it's best. The Silky Terrier has the advantage of not shedding seasonally like many other breeds and also tend to be odourless.

Exercise:

These small dogs adapt themselves to their family's circumstances to fulfill their exercise needs.

History:

Originally known as the Sydney Silky. The name was changed to Silky Terrier in 1955. It is believed the breed evolved from a combination of the Australian Terrier and the Yorkshire Terrier. At the 1907 Sydney Royal Easter Show there were 31 Silky Terriers entered and from that time on, the popularity of this breed remained fairly constant.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Sharp-featured, silky and compact.

Color: Rich blue or grey blue. Tan on the muzzle, ears and legs. The topknot is silver blue or fawn. Under 18 months the coat is usually darker.

Coat: Adult length is 13-15cm (5-6 inches). The hair is short on the muzzle and legs. The coat is fine, glossy and silky.

Tail: Customarily docked and stands erect.

Ears: Pointed and V-shaped.

Body: Moderately deep and broad chest. Moderately long and level back, that is slightly longer than the height.

Additional Comments:

A great household companion, that is the perfect size for indoors and doesn't demand too much exercise or food.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/silky_terrier/

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Cairn Terrier - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small

Height: 28 - 31 cm (11 - 12 inches)

Weight: 6 - 7.5 kg (14 - 16 lb)

Life Span: 15 years

Grooming: Medium

Exercise: Reasonable

Feeding: Small

Temperament: Fearless & hardy

Country of Origin: Scotland

AKC Group: Terrier

Temperament:

The Cairn Terrier is intelligent, agile, active and hardy. Cairn Terriers are assertive but not aggressive. The Cairn Terrier does need training and firm discipline and isn't always suitable for small children with their hardy playfulness. Cairn Terriers are full of character and bustle everywhere at a great pace and almost seem tireless.

Grooming:

The thick, harsh topcoat allows dirt to be brushed out easily and should be combed regularly. The Cairn Terrier coat should be stripped (plucking out the dead hairs) about twice per year. Stripping can by done by a professional or the owner can learn to do it themselves. The excess hair in the ear canals also needs to be removed from time to time.

Exercise:

Cairn Terriers are bursting with energy and must have the opportunity to run and play. This breed suits an active or sporty family. They enjoy being taken for walks in the park or woods where they can run free.

Feeding:

The Cairn Terrier only eats a small amount and will happily eat whatever it's offered.

History:

Cairn Terriers are one of the oldest Scottish breeds and got their name form the Gaelic word 'cairn' meaning a pile of stones. They were expected to hunt after foxes and other short-haired vermin found in West Scotland. Cairn Terriers are extremely hardy as the rugged countryside was bleak and decidedly rocky. In order to survive on land and water, these small dogs needed to be as tough as nails. The white dogs of this breed became the White West Highland Terriers.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Shaggy, compact and free in movement.

Color: Cream, wheaten, red, sand, grey, brindle or nearly black.

Coat: Thick, harsh but not coarse. The undercoat is short, dense and soft.

Tail: Short, well covered with hair but not feathered and carried gaily.

Ears: Small, pointed and carried erect.

Body: Compact, level back of average length, sloping shoulders and a strong, supple loin.

Additional Comments:

Cairn Terriers love to dig, so would not be an ideal pet for a conscientious gardner.

The coat of the Cairn Terrier has a shaggy look even after it has been groomed and is descibed by some breed experts as looking like a road-sweeper's broom.

The Cairn Terrier is best known as Toto in the Wizard of Oz.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/cairn_terrier/

Monday, October 27, 2008

Cane Corso - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Medium - large

Height: 56 - 71 cm (22 - 28 inches)

Weight: 36 - 63.5 kg (80 - 140 lb)

Life Span: 11 years

Grooming: Undemanding

Exercise: Demanding

Feeding: Demanding

Temperament: Protective & even-tempered

Country of Origin: Italy

AKC Group: Not registered

Other Names: Sicilian Branchiero, Cane di Macellaio

Temperament:

The Cane Corso is loyal, intelligent, active, protective, affectionate and even-tempered. Cane Corsos are very protective of their family and make excellent watchdogs and guard dogs. They get along with children and will not pick fights with other dogs unless challenged. Cane Corsos should have an experienced owner as they can become aggressive towards strangers or other dogs if not properly trained and socialized. Cane Corsos quickly bond with their family and can become quite attached to children. Once they are fully trained they make gentle family companions and protective guard dogs.

Grooming:

Cane Corso's are light shedders and are low maintenance. An occasional brush is sufficient to remove the loose hairs.

Exercise:

These athletic dogs need plenty of regular exercise on a daily basis. They enjoy activities such as swimming, long walks, running alongside a bike or jogger and retrieving. Cane Corso's should not be left in a yard and forgotten about as they thrive on companionship and love to be included in family activities.

History:

It is belived that the Cane Corso descended from the Roman Molossus. The historic Molossus produced two quite distinct breeds, one being massive and the other being taller and more agile. It was from the athletic offspring of the Molossus that the Cane Corso evolved. The Cane Corso was used to hunt large game and it was especially skilled at hunting wild boar. When big game hunting was on a decline these dogs were used to guard propery and livestock for Italian farmers. This breed came to America around 1987, but can still be found throughout Italy fulfilling the role of its old working duties. The Cane Corso derived it's name from the Latin word ""Cohors"" which means guardian or protector.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Powerful, agile, sturdy, compact and athletic.

Colour: Slate, black, deer fawn, light grey, plumb grey, tubby and light to dark fawn. A small white patch is allowed on the chest, nose bridge or tips of the feet.

Coat: Dense, short, stiff and shiny but not smooth. The hair is slightly longer on the withers, tail, back of thighs and the rump.

Tail: Tapering and should be docked to one third of its length.

Ears: Set high and commonly cropped to an equilateral-triangular shape. When natural the ears hang close to the head.

Body: The body is strong, compact and very muscular. The back is wide and muscular and the chest should be broad and deep. The ribs are well sprung and and descend to the elbows and the topline is straight. The loins are short, wide and solid and the belly is slightly tucked up.

Additional Comments:

Cane Corso's are not fighting dogs and will not go out looking for a fight. They were bred as working dogs for hundreds of years.

The Cane Corso demands plenty of attention and training and owners need to be prepared to make this commitment.

The Cane Corso is territorial and likes to stay close to its handler and therefore will not wander away from home.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of Dooziedog.com, for more pictures visit http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/cane_corso/

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Curly Coated Retriever - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Large

Height: 63.5 - 68.5 cm (25 - 27 inches)

Weight: 32 - 36 kg (70 - 80 lb)

Life Span: 13 years

Grooming: Medium

Exercise: Demanding but simple

Feeding: Reasonable

Temperament: Confident & friendly

Country of Origin: England

AKC Group: Sporting

Temperament:

The Curly Coated Retriever is intelligent, friendly, loyal and lovable. Curly Coated Retrievers make great watchdogs and guard dogs unlike other types of retrievers. They can have a strong streak of independence and have the ability to think on their own and use their own initiative. Curly Coated Retrievers are very devoted and loyal to their family and respond well to firm training.

Grooming:

The coat is naturally oily and needs little care. Water easily shakes off the coat similar to that of a duck. Curly Coated Retrievers do not need trimming and brushing is only necessary when the coat is moulting and the dead hairs need to be brushed out.

Exercise:

Curly Coated Retrievers enjoy water and swimming which are good forms of exercise for them. They are energetic and require a substantial amount of exercise.

History:

It is believed that the Curly Coated Retrievers are one of the oldest retrieving breeds. They were originally bred for retrieving ducks from the English marshlands. It is presumed that these retrievers are the result of cross-breeding during the 16th century between an English water spaniel, the liver colored Irish Water Spaniel, a retrieving setter and the Poodle. Due to their love of water, some believe that later, the smaller St. John's Newfoundland also may have played a part in the evolvement of this breed.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Elegant, flexible, smart, active and hard-working.

Color: Black or liver. A few white hairs are permitted.

Coat: A mass of tight, crisp curls covering the body. There is smooth hair on the head, pasterns and feet.

Tail: Medium length, tapering and carried straight out.

Ears: Medium length, broad and pendant shaped.

Body: Level topline, tucked up belly, deep chest and strong, well angulated fore and hindquarters.

Additional Comments:

The Curly Coated Retriever is slow to mature and requires careful feeding and exercise during the growth period.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/curly_coated_retriever/

Saturday, October 25, 2008

How to Train Your Dog to Sit

Author: Jon Weaver

Training your dog to sit is one of the most basic skills, and also sets the foundation for many others. Here is exactly what should happen: the moment the guide stops, the dog should sit close to his left side. And here is exactly how to go about training your dog:

Hold the leash tightly in both hands, with the right hand at the side, and with a loose grip in the left hand at the left side. But do not slip the hand through the loop at the leash end.

Walk forward and stop suddenly, at the same time giving in a sharp voice the command SIT. Drop the leash from the left hand. Still holding the leash in a tight grip raise the right hand, and at that moment press the lower part of the dog's back to the ground with the left hand while repeating the command SIT.

The guide should then assume a standing position, once more with the command SIT. Throughout this procedure, avoid changing the position of your feet. The dog should still be at your left side.

What is the dog's reaction? He will attempt to get up on his feet, to jump to one side, possibly to lie down or sit sidewise.

Here are the corrections: This exercise offers little difficulty when executed correctly, though failure may be traced to various inconsistencies on the part of the guide. Very likely the guide loosened his hold on the leash with his right hand and did not hold the dog up on his front feet as he pressed him into the sitting position, or possibly he changed the position of his feet and therefore found himself facing the dog. Also, he may have confused the dog with too many commands.

The command ought not to be used more than three times: first, at the instant of stopping; second, while the dog is being pushed into a sitting position; and third, when the dog has assumed the desired sitting position. Of importance is it for the guide to watch the action of his hands so as to be sure he holds them exactly as described.

The dog is now in a sitting position at the left side of the guide, and so long as the guide remains quiet, the dog will not move. Give him now a few words of praise and a pat with the left hand, while you still hold the same position with ease.

Should the dog try to sit sidewise and removed from you, place your left hand against his left side when pressing him into the sitting position and in that way nudge him closer to you.

Repeat this exercise several times while in standing position. Then walk again and suddenly stop with the command SIT. By now, the dog will probably assume the correct sitting position without further influence and aided only by the single command.

When the dog executes this lesson correctly -- and of course it must be repeated over and over again -- don't forget those words of praise. If for a few times he responds readily and then fails, be patient and help him again by pulling him up with the right hand, and pushing him down with the left.

It requires several days and repetitious practise before a dog becomes a competent ""sitter."" But always remain patient and loving, and sooner than you think, your dog will sit on command and desire to move on to new commands.

About the author: FREE step-by-step instructions on every aspect of training your dog. From absolute basics including sitting, heeling and fetching, to advanced commands! It's FREE! Click here: www.DogTrainingInst ructions.com

Friday, October 24, 2008

Chinese Crested - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small

Height: 23 - 33 cm (9 - 13 inches)

Weight: 3.2 - 5.4 kg (7 - 12 lb)

Life Span: 12 years

Grooming: Unusual

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Cheerful & friendly

Country of Origin: China/Africa

AKC Group: Toy

Other Names: Hairless, Powderpuff

Temperament:

Chinese Crested dogs are active, affectionate, intelligent and quiet. Chinese Cresteds love human companionship and make good household watchdogs. They make ideal pets for apartment living and for the elderly. Chinese Cresteds generally get along with children, provided they have their own space. Other pets and dogs rarely cause any difficultes with this breed, although they can be rather wary of strangers.

Grooming:

The Chinese Crested hairless variety need their skin taken care of to prevent it from becoming dry or sunburnt. Owners of showdogs regularly wash the skin with exfoliating creams made for humans. This removes dead skin cells and keeps the skin smooth and soft. Ordinary suntan lotions can also be used to prevent sunburn. The Chinese Crested 'Powder Puff' variety should be brushed regularly and washed more frequently. Usually the hair is trimmed around the face to form downward-facing points, which is the typical style of this breed.

Exercise:

The Chinese Crested adapts to family activities in terms of it's exercise needs.

History:

The origin of this breed is lost in obscurity. Hairless breeds have existed in America and Asia for a very long time. The most similar breed to the Chinese Crested is the Mexican Hairless, and more distant cousins are the Turkish Naked Dog, the African Sand dog and the Abyssinian dog all of whom share the same absence of hair. It appears that the hairlessness may be linked to dentition as these breeds often lack a full set of 12 teeth.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Graceful, friendly and cunning.

Color: Any color or combination of colors.

Coat: Hairless - Fine grained smooth skin which is warm to the touch. A crest of hair on the skull, tufted feet and plumed tail. Powder puffs - A soft veil of long hair growing through the undercoat covering the whole body.

Tail: Tapers to a curve and may be carried slightly forward over the back. Hairless - last two thrids of the tail is covered with long, flowing hair. Powderpuff - completely covered with hair.

Ears: Normally erect, but may be dropped in powder puffs. Rounded tips and can be with or without a fringe.

Body: Two types (1) The deer type which is racy and finer boned, and (2) The compact type with heavier bones. The long neck carries the head high and the strong, lean body is set on long lean legs. The hindquaters are well-angulated and the hindlegs are set well apart.

Additional Comments:

The skin of the Chinese Crested Dog is warm to touch as their body temperature is 2.2 degrees warmer than the human body temperature.

An advantage of the Chinese Crested is that there are no loose hairs to mess up the carpet.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/chinese_crested/

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Chesapeake Bay Retriever - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Large & solid

Height: 53 - 66 cm (21 - 26 inches)

Weight: 25 - 36 kg (55 - 80 lb)

Life Span: 13 years

Grooming: Fairly demanding

Exercise: Demanding but simple

Feeding: Considerable

Temperament: Alert & cheerful

Country of Origin: United States

AKC Group: Sporting

Temperament:

The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is intelligent, independent, active and courageous. These dogs love water, even if it's freezing cold as their coat protects them from the elements. Chesapeake Bay Retrievers make excellent watchdogs with their strong guarding instincts. They tend to be wary of strangers but get on well with children. Chesapeakes are very intelligent and highly trainable, but they do not respond well to harsh discipline. The Chesapeake Bay Retriever is eager to please and it loves people.

Grooming:

Normal grooming to remove the dead hair is adequate for Chesapeake Bay Retrievers. Only wash these dogs occasionally as it strips the coat of it's natural oiliness.

Exercise:

Chesapeake Bay Retrievers need plenty of exercise otherwise they can become badly behaved through boredom. Chesapeake Bay Retrievers enjoy swimming and retrieving and are at their best when they have a purpose in life, such as some form of work.

History:

It is believed that the Chesapeake Bay Retriever originated from a pair of Newfoundlands who were rescued from a shipwreck in 1807. When these Newfoundlands were mated to local dogs carrying Irish Water Spaniel, Bloodhound, Otter and Coonhound lines, a distinctive strain evolved. The breed takes its name from Chesapeake Bay on the east coast of America where the local hunters expected their dogs to plunge into icy waters and retrieve ducks and geese.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Intelligent expression, well proportioned and muscular.

Color: Preferably a solid color, varying from yellow-brown to dark-brown.

Coat: No longer than 3.8cm, straight, oily, thick and weatherproof. The undercoat is woolly, dense and fine. The coat tends to be wavy on the shoulders, neck, back and loin.

Tail: Medium length, straight or slightly curved, thick at the base and moderate feathering is permissible.

Ears: Small, set high and hanging freely.

Body: Somewhat hollow, deep, wide and strong chest. Powerful back, well sprung ribs and laid back shoulders.

Additional Comments:

Chesapeake Bay Retrievers are suited for a family that enjoys the countryside and has an active lifestyle.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/chesapeake_bay_retriever/

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Smooth Collie - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Medium - large

Height: 51 - 61 cm (20 - 24 inches)

Weight: 18 - 29.5 kg (40 - 65 lb)

Life Span: 15 years

Grooming: Simple

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Good-natured & friendly

Country of Origin: Scotland

AKC Group: Herding

Temperament:

The Smooth Collie is intelligent, active, friendly and good-natured. Smooth Collies make good family companions and are obedient and easily trained. In domestic situations they show no signs of aggression and get on with people of all ages. Smooth Collies make excellent guard dogs, as they were originally bred to herd and guard sheep.

Grooming:

Minimal grooming is needed with the short coat of the Smooth Collie.

Exercise:

The Smooth Collie appears more active than that of the Rough Collie and expects more exercise. They do require daily exercise.

History:

The Collie's ancestry goes back about 2000 years to the days of the Romans. In Northern Scotland sheep raising was an important industry during the 16th and 17th centuries. The farmers developed a distinctive type of sheep herder that we know today as the Collie. Generally it was the Rough coated Collie that was used for working with sheep.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Racy-looking, muscular and strong.

Color: Sable/white, tricolor or blue merle.

Coat: Short, hard, dense and flat hair and abundant undercoat.

Tail: Long, carried low when passive and slightly curved up when active.

Ears: Broad at the base, semi-erect with the tip folded forward.

Body: Rather long, muscular loin and deep chest.

Additional Comments:

Blue merle is more common in the Smooth Collie than in the Rough Collie.

The Smooth Collie is identical to the Rough Collie except that the coat is shorter.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/collie_smooth/

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Rough Collie - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Medium - large

Height: 51 - 61 cm (20 - 24 inches)

Weight: 18 - 30 kg (40 - 65 lb)

Life Span: 15 years

Grooming: Demanding

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Friendly & obedient

Country of Origin: Scotland

AKC Group: Herding

Other Names: Scottish Collie

Temperament:

The Rough Collie is intelligent, active, friendly and good-natured. Rough Collies make good family companions and are obedient and easily trained. In domestic situations they show no signs of aggression and get on with people of all ages. Rough Collies make excellent guard dogs, as they were originally bred to herd and guard sheep.

Grooming:

Rough Collies need regular grooming with a pin brush that reaches through to the undercoat.

Exercise:

The Rough Collie appears less active than that of the Smooth Collie and doesn't expect as much exercise. However they do require daily exercise.

History:

The Collie's ancestry goes back about 2000 years to the days of the Romans. In Northern Scotland sheep raising was an important industry during the 16th and 17th centuries. The farmers developed a distinctive type of sheep herder that we know today as the Collie. Generally it was the Rough coated Collie that was used for working with sheep.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Dignified, intelligent and graceful.

Color: Sable/white, tricolor or blue merle.

Coat: The outercoat is dense, straight and harsh. The undercoat is soft and furry. There is short hair on the head, ears and lower legs and a mane on the neck and feathering on the rear of the hindquarters.

Tail: Long, plumed, carried low when passive and slightly curved up when active.

Ears: Broad at the base, semi-erect with the tip folded forward.

Body: Rather long, muscular loin and deep chest.

Additional Comments:

The Rough Collie is the breed known to the world as the ""Lassie"" dog from the movie.

The Rough Collie is identical to the Smooth Collie except that the coat is longer.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/collie_rough/

Monday, October 20, 2008

English Cocker Spaniel - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small

Height: 39 - 41 cm (15 - 16 inches)

Weight: 12.7 - 14.5 kg (28 - 32 lb)

Life Span: 15 years

Grooming: Regular

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Small

Temperament: Exuberant & cheerful

Country of Origin: England

AKC Group: Sporting

Other Names: Cocker Spaniel

Temperament:

The English Cocker Spnaiel is intelligent, cheerful, energetic and willing. English Cocker Spaniels make delightful family pets with their happy and affectionate nature. They get on well with children, household pets and other dogs. English Cocker Spaniels thrive on human company and are very pliable when it comes to training.

Grooming:

The coat needs to be brushed regularly as it tangles easily. The Cocker Spaniel should have the excessive hair on the top of the head, beneath the ears and on the neck stripped regularly by hand. Depending on the coats condition this should be done two to four times per year. The excess hair in the ear canals also needs to be removed.

Exercise:

English Cocker Spaniels do not demand a great deal of exercise and they should be content with a walk around the block each day. Most of these dogs love to swim.

History:

The English Cocker Spaniel is the earliest known land spaniel and got it's name from the Spanish word 'Espanol'. Spain was where these dogs originally evolved from in the 14th century, but it was in England that they were bred down in size. The new strain earned their name through their ability to flush out and retrieve woodcocks for the hunters. The other breeds that resulted from the English Cocker Spaniel include the English Toy Spaniel and Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Thoughtful expression, energetic and well-built.

Color: Black, black/tan, gold, liver or orange with or without white. Roans which are the previous colors with white hairs mingled evenly in the color.

Coat: Flat, silky with straight feathering. The hair is never stiff or wiry.

Tail: Set low, commonly docked (two thirds of its length) and carried in line with the back.

Ears: Set low, thin, flexible, covered in silky hair and hanging flat against the cheek.

Body: Compact body with a short, strong back sloping downwards towards the tail. The chest is broad and deep and the shoulders are long and well angulated.

Additional Comments:

English Cocker Spaniels can be susceptible to ear infections and it is important to regularly check and clean the ears.

The English Cocker Spaniel is often portrayed as the original slipper-fetching-dog for his master.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of Dooziedog.com, for more pictures visit http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/english_cocker_spaniel/

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Chinese Foo - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Three sizes: toy, miniature & standard

Height: Toy: under 25 cm (10 inches)

Miniature: 25 - 38 cm (10 - 15 inches)

Standard: over 38 cm (15 inches)

Weight: Toy: up to 9 kg (20 lb)

Miniature: 9 - 23 kg (21 - 50 lb)

Standard: over 23 kg (51 lb)

Life Span: 12 years

Grooming: Medium - demanding

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Undemanding - medium (dependent on size)

Temperament: Hardy & active

Country of Origin: China

AKC Group: Not registered

Other Names: Chinese Temple Forest Dog, Sacred Dog of Sinkiang, Chinese Choo Hunting Dog, Chinese T'ien Kou (Chinese Celestial Dog), Chinese Lung- Kou (Chinese Dragon Dog), Happiness Dog

Temperament:

The Chinese Foo Dog is hardy, energetic, bold, devoted, alert, courageous and friendly. Chinese Foo's make good guard dogs, with their naturally bold and courageous characters. They are devoted to their family and get along well with children. Chinese Foo's can be rather independent but tend to be reasonably quick to learn when being trained. Because they come in three sizes they are ideal for apartment living, but despite their small size they are extremely energetic and active. Chinese Foo's make lively household companions and guardians.

Grooming:

The Chinese Foo should be groomed on a weekly basis with their thick double coats. The coat should not be altered or trimmed as only a natural appearance is accepted. Only the hair between the pads of the feet is allowed to be trimmed.

Exercise:

Regular exercise is needed for Chinese Foo's, as they are naturally active and energetic. If their exercise needs are met then they will be calm when indoors.

History:

The Chinese Foo originated in China and probably got its name from the word foochow, a city in southeast China. These versatile dogs were used for hunting, herding, sledding and as watchdogs. The Chinese Foo is considered sacred in the buddhist religion and they were used as guards for the Buddhist temples. The Chinese Foo resembles the look of a lion, which is a sacred animal to Buddhists. It is believed that this breed evolved from crossings of Northern European hunting dogs and the ancient Chow Chow. The Chinese Foo is the mascot of the Tongs, which is a secret cult or association in China that has existed for many years. The Tongs believe that the Chinese Foo Dog brings good luck and they have bred and kept these dogs as a symbol of their organization.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Compact, squarely-built and sturdy.

Color: Black, blue, black/tan, blue/brown, fawn, cream/sable, orange, red, sable and wolfgrey. White markings are accepted.

Coat: The outercoat is coarse, straight, weather resistant and off-standing. The undercoat is dense, woolly and soft. The hair is longer on the neck, chest, buttocks, hind part of the legs and the underside of the tail. The coat should not be clipped.

Tail: Set high, usually undocked and carried curled over the back.

Ears: Set high, small, slightly rounded at the tips and erect (semi-erect ears are accepted but not preferred).

Body: The body is powerful, compact and short with a moderately broad, deep chest. The ribs are well-sprung and the muscular loins are short and wide.

Additional Comments:

The Chinese Foo Dog is also known as the Happiness Dog (fu is the Chinese word for happiness).

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/chinese_foo_dog/

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Chow Chow - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small - medium

Height: 46 - 56 cm (18 - 22 inches)

Weight: 20 - 30 kg (44 - 46 lb)

Life Span: 15 years

Grooming: Demanding

Exercise: Undemanding

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Independent but loyal

Country of Origin: China

AKC Group: Non-Sporting

Temperament:

The Chow Chow is loyal, independent, brave and noble. Chow Chows tend to be a one-person dog, but can also be good with children and family. They make good watchdogs and have a possessive attitude towards their home and family. Chow Chows can be difficult towards strangers.

Grooming:

The Chow Chow is reasonably demanding with grooming as they do require frequent brushing and its not the easiest coat to groom being so plush and thick.

Exercise:

Chow Chows don't need a great deal of exercise, but they do enjoy being outdoors. They don't tend to move at a great speed and their movement can seem stilted and stiff-legged.

History:

The Chow Chow is a member of the spitz family and is believed to have evolved from crosses with the Tibetan Mastiff and the Samoyed. Their history has been traced back to the Chinese Han Dynasty around 150 BC. One of the largest ever recorded kennels in the world, was maintained by a Chinese Emperor who reportedly had 2500 couples of hunting dogs of a Chow Chow type. Not only were these dogs bred for food (hence the English title of Chow), they were also bred for their fur. In 1880, the Chow made it to England and in 1895 a specialist club had been formed.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Compact, powerful, squarely-built and dignified.

Color: Black, red, blue, fawn, cream or white. The coat must be a solid color. Shadings of color are permitted.

Coat: There are two types of varieties. Rough variety - The outercoat is dense, straight, abundant and stands away from the body. The undercoat is soft and woolly. Smooth variety - Short, dense and abundant.

Tail: Set high and carried well over the back.

Ears: Small, thick, carried erect and slightly rounded at the tip.

Body: Deep, broad chest, short, level back, powerful loin and muscular shoulders.

Additional Comments:

The inside of a Chow Chows mouth is black and so is the tongue.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/chow_chow/

Friday, October 17, 2008

Coton de Tulear - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small

Height: 22 - 32 cm (8.5 - 12.5 inches)

Weight: 5.5 - 7 kg (12 - 15 lb)

Life Span: 15 years

Grooming: Fairly demanding

Exercise: Undemanding

Feeding: Undemanding

Temperament: Sociable & playful

Country of Origin: Madagascar

AKC Group: Not registered

Temperament:

The Coton de Tulear is friendly, intelligent, gentle, playful and affectionate. The Coton de Tulear is an extremely sociable breed that happily gets along with other dogs, household pets and strangers. These dogs make ideal playmates for children and become very attached to their handler and family. The Coton de Tulear has the ability to learn quickly and is always eager to work and please it's owner. Although these small dogs aim to please, they can still show a stubborn streak at times and can have a mind of their own.

Grooming:

The Coton de Tulear does not shed hair, but the dead hairs can be removed with brushing. Their coats should be brushed and combed several times a week to keep them tangle-free. Any excess hair between the pads of the feet and in the ear canals should be removed. These dogs do not need to be washed often and a bath once or twice a year is sufficient to keep the coat clean. The coat of the Coton de Tulear should not be clipped.

Exercise:

The Coton de Tulear generally fulfills it's exercise needs by adapting to it's family's activities. These dogs enjoy swimming and playing ball games and are known to do well in various dog sports, including agility and fly-ball. Coton de Tulears love spending time with their family and being taken on outings.

History:

The Coton de Tulear is thought to have evolved from the Bichon-type companion dogs that were bought to Madagascar by European merchants. This breed was bred for companionship and was favoured by the wealthy residents in southern Madagascar and it was forbidden for anyone other than royalty to own the breed. The Coton de Tulear gained the title of ""Royal Dog of Madagascar."" This breed became more well known when it was reintroduced to America and Europe in the last 20 years. The Coton de Tulear is still rare, but it is becoming increasingly popular in America.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Small with a long, cotton-like coat and intelligent, expressive eyes.

Color: White with or without yellow to dark grey patches (particularly around the ears).

Coat: Fine, long and slightly wavy with a cotton-like texture.

Tail: Set low, tapering, about 18 cm (7 in) in length and carried over the back when in action.

Ears: Set high, thin, triangular and dropped.

Body: The backline is muscular and slightly convex with a broad chest. The withers are slightly pronounced and the round belly has a slight tuck-up.

Additional Comments:

'Coton' is the French word for Cotton. Like the name suggests the most distinctive feature of the Coton de Tuléar is it's coat, which has a cottony or fluffy texture rather than a silky feel.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/coton_de_tulear/

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Clumber Spaniel - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Short but massive

Height: 41 - 45 cm (16 - 18 inches)

Weight: 20 - 32 kg (45 - 70 lb)

Life Span: 13 years

Grooming: Reasonable

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Reliable & kind

Country of Origin: England

AKC Group: Sporting

Temperament:

The Clumber Spaniel is highly intelligent, obedient, quiet and kind. This breed can be headstrong if not controlled, but are easily trained. The Clumber Spaniel loves people of all ages and although they are loyal and protective of their family they do not make good guard dogs. Clumber Spaniels get on well with other dogs and household pets, but they will avoid strangers.

Grooming:

Clumber Spaniels need regular brushing and the ear canals should be kept clean. Occasional trimming will be necessary to cut back the unruly hairs that stick out. If there is too much hair growing under the ears then it should be clipped and is best not to wait until the next overall trim.

Exercise:

Clumber Spaniels do need a reasonable amount of exercise and should have a large backyard to romp around in. They have considerable stamina but are calm when indoors.

History:

The Clumber Spaniel differs from other early land spaniels. The breed is believed to have evolved from crosses between the Basset Hound and the early Alpine Spaniel. They got their name from Clumber Park, which was the home of the Duke of Norfolk, who is reported to have received some of these spaniels from the French Duc de Noailles in the mid 1700s. In 1859 the popularity of the breed was great enough that Clumber Spaniels got their own special classes at the shows.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Very sturdy, thoughtful expression and gentle.

Color: White with lemon or orange markings.

Coat: Silky, straight, abundant and well feathered chest and legs.

Tail: Customarily docked and carried level with the back.

Ears: Long, and covered with silky hair.

Body: Compact and robust body. A strong and sloping back, massive head, short legs and short neck.

Additional Comments:

Some Clumber Spaniels do suffer from ear irritations, but their are lotions available to relieve these symptoms.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/clumber_spaniel/

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Dog Training Collars and Harnesses -- Making the Proper Selection is Essential to Training Success

Author: Armen T. Ghazarians

Dog training is an art, and like any artist you must pick your tools carefully in order to properly train your dog. Each dog is different, and thus you must be able to decide which collar is most appropriate for your dog based on its temperament, pesonality, and strength. Below, you will find a description of all the major varieties of dog training collars that you might come across when deciding to purchase one for you pooch.

The metal choke collar is perhaps the most popular and widely used collar in the dog training world. It should be used in training larger, stronger dogs that tend to take YOU for a walk.

The metal toggle choke collar is basically the same as you regular choke collar with the major difference being that you can correct you dog easily by using the toggle while your dog is off-leash.

The pinch collar should be used RARELY and only in situations where the choke collar is ineffective in controlling your dog (i.e. in situations where your dog is very strong, where its highly aggressive, and when it repeatedly lunges at other dogs and people).

The fur saver choke collar is designed to control the dog without leaving chain marks around the dogs' neck or getting fur caught in the chain which sometimes occurs when using an ordinary metal choke collar. It is mainly used when showing dogs and NOT in training them because the dogs don't tend to respond to them in training and they don't give the quick jerk needed for proper correction.

The nylon choke collar is best used in small dogs and puppies up to 3 months, because they tend to be more gentle and they tend to get young puppies used to wearing a collar.

The gentle head leader is best used on dogs that are more shy and easily corrected (i.e. dogs that respond quickly to your commands and dogs that tend to cringe upon your correction).

The electronic collar is mainly used for two reasons: first its used on field dogs (i.e. in bird hunting) and second it is used as a means of training the ""out"" command to a protection dog in its bite training phase.

The tracking harness is used for exactly what its name suggests: for tracking game, suspects, lost individuals, or competition articles.

And finally, the seeing eye dog harness is designed so that the dogs' owner can hang on to the lead while the dog guides her to her destination. Unlike other leads, this lead is designed so that the dog can pull its owner forward as it walks instead of gently walking beside her on loose lead.

In order to view pictures of the dog collars described above and for a more indepth discussion of each, please visit me at:

http://www.newdogtrainingscrets.com

and select from a variety of articles on the topic in the November archive.

About the author: Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice and insightful articles for those who are interested in training their dogs like the professionals. His blog http://www.newdogtrainingsecrets.com offers information regarding many aspects of Professional Dog Training for all those who are not professional dog trainers themselves.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

The Professional Shih Tzu Dog Groomer

Author: Connie Limon

Everyday more and more money is being spent on pets including the Shih Tzu. The professional Shih Tzu groomer is a rather unique entry in the professional world. Outside the family and the Shih Tzu's vet, the professional Shih Tzu groomer is the one person closest to the Shih Tzu or Shih Tzu puppy.

If you plan to use a professional Shih Tzu groomer, the groomer will see your Shih Tzu regularly either monthly or bi-monthly. A knowledgeable professional Shih Tzu groomer will be able to supply you with advice on matters of health, breeding, boarding and various Shih Tzu products. The extent to which the professional Shih Tzu groomer fills these roles affects the relationship between the groomer and Shih Tzu owner. A close bond between the family and the professional Shih Tzu groomer is desirable.

The Shih Tzu Grooming Shop: Many professional Shih Tzu groomers start out in their basements or spare room in their house and then graduate to their own shop on Main streets in towns throughout the country. Although a Shih Tzu groomer should have knowledge of how to groom all breeds of dogs, specializing in the Shih Tzu breed can be a unique opportunity for those who love the Shih Tzu exclusively. The Shih Tzu breed is one of the top 10 favorite family pets. Their popularity continues to grow, therefore, to specialize in Shih Tzu grooming would definitely be a professional groomer's own unique niche.

Quality training: Be sure to seek out the best instruction available. This instruction should come from licensed, qualified instructors in state-approved locations with adequate space and facilities. Proper training is the most important part of your investment. Without proper training, there is no business. Good dog grooming instruction means training in grooming all breeds with access to dogs of as many breeds as possible. Specializing in Shih Tzu grooming can come later. The school's reputation is most significant. Check with your State Education Department, the Better Business Bureau and other consumer agencies to determine the reputation of the schools you choose. Make a personal visit to the school.

Shih Tzu Grooming Shop Site: Once you are fully trained and/or you have built up a customer base while working out of your home you begin to consider setting up a shop. Go where the action is. Shih Tzu pet owners will like locations in a good part of town, one with good parking. If funds allow, a busy shopping mall would be an excellent location for a Shih Tzu Grooming Salon.

An important factor to consider when deciding on a location for your Shih Tzu grooming shop is the element of competition. Is there already a grooming shop in your chosen location? And how long has the shop been in business? If the grooming shop has been in business for quite some time, you may want to choose another location.

Zoning Most state laws are loose about zoning requirements for dog grooming shops and so would be the same case for a Shih Tzu grooming shop. Usually a commercial area or on a main street there are no problems with zoning. If you begin your grooming at home, you may have to cope with complaining neighbors if the traffic begins to become congested in the neighborhood, etc. You will need to check your local zoning laws in a case such as this.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Monday, October 13, 2008

Dog Sweaters You can Make on Your Own

Author: Connie Limon

There is a fantastic choice in sweater and fleece t shirt styles and colors. They can be adorned with hearts, crystals, bows, bowties, buttons, pockets, pearls, gold jewelry, and silver jewelry. They come trimmed in lace, denim, feathers, fur, faux fur, leather. Shopping for your little dog can be just as much fun as shopping for yourself or a little toddler. Dog clothes designers are busy as bees working on new designs for us dog fanciers. It is actually enough to make your head swim and if you are already an indecisive person, such as I am, then you might just throw your arms up in frustration and decide to make your own.

In ancient China, little Pekingese and Shih Tzu were called ""sleeve dogs."" The empress and people of royalty carried these little dogs in the sleeves of their clothing. You can use the sleeve of a human sweater to make your small dog a sweater of his own. Follow the simple directions below:

1. Use any sweater you want, even that favorite cashmere sweater that now has a stain that would not come out last time you wore it. 2. Measure the length you want the dog sweater to be (add a little more for a hem) and cut. 3. The ribbing at the sweater's wrist makes a perfect turtleneck for a little dog. 4. Cut holes for the legs. 5. Hem around the armholes and hemline. And you are done! You have a dog sweater. These sweaters can be made in minutes. 6. Add trim of anything you want like faux fur along the hem and arm holes. 7. Add beads, pearls, buttons, and rhinestones, anything that reflects your and your dog's personality.

If you want to dress your dog to look like you, next time you find a bargain sweater, buy two, and make your little dog a sweater following these directions to match yours.

If you have a favorite doggie sweater that fits your little dog perfectly but is getting on the worn out side. Use the old sweater as a pattern for a new one. Follow the simple directions below:

1. Cut the old dog sweater along its seam lines to make the pattern. 2. Trace the shape onto a piece of paper. 3. Find a human sweater of your choice at a bargain store or a resale store or tucked way back in your own closet. 4. Cut the human sweater along the pattern lines. 5. Sew securely (do a whip-stitch around any exposed fabric edges to make sure it does not unravel). 6. Trim it with ribbons, beads, and buttons, whatever you like. And you are done. You have a new favorite sweater for your little dog, all for the fraction of the cost of one already made.

You can find some wonderful sweaters at resale clothing stores - like your local Goodwill Store. You will find last season sweaters or sweaters that need repair but still have sleeves in good shape. Some of these sweaters are made of fine wools, silk and cashmere. Sleeves from men's sweaters work well for larger dogs and the sleeves from children's sweaters work well for very tiny puppies or very tiny dogs. The ideas you can find at such stores to make your own dog sweaters are limitless. Use your imagination and own unique creativity to design your dog's next wardrobe of sweaters.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. Buy fleece t-shirts in a variety of colors and patterns as well as hand made crochet dog blankets and other designer dog clothes at: http://www.littleguysdogclothesshop.com

Sunday, October 12, 2008

Protect Your Dog From These Preventable Threats

Author: Robert Benson

Owning a dog is one of the most rewarding experiences a person can have in their lifetime, but having a dog is much more than the occasional walk around the block or playing fetch in the yard. There are many other responsibilities that one must consider in order to be a good dog owner. Your dog's health is a major concern to any good pet owner and in this article we will concentrate on some preventable threats to your pet.

As winter ends and spring starts, so do different types of threats to your dog. Obviously, as the weather starts getting nicer, your pet spends more time outdoors and is more susceptible to the these threats. It is important to be alert for ticks, mosquitoes and micro organisms that spread diseases that are harmful to your dog's health. Ticks normally live in wooded areas or in tall brush and do not transmit bacteria through the air, but by biting the dog. Some other threats are summarized below:

Lyme disease- is a tick-borne bacterial disease and it can cause lameness, kidney damage and death.

Leptospirosis- this is the #1 cause of acute renal failure, ""lepto"" is a deadly bacterial disease that is spread by contact with urine from other pets, wildlife and livestock and can be transmitted from dogs to people.

Rabies- is a fatal viral disease transmitted by saliva most often through bite wounds and is a threat to both humans and animals.

Heartworm Disease- is a mosquito-borne disease that is preventable and attacks multiple organs and will cause death if untreated.

As a dog owner, there are many things you can do to minimize the risk to your pet. Brush your dog often and visually inspect your animal especially after an outing in the woods. Additionally, use tick and flea treatments and medications that your veterinarian recommends to kill these harmful pests. Furthermore, your veterinarian can suggest how to protect your pet from lyme disease through vaccination.

There is another important factor in taking care of your dog: twice-a-year wellness exams. You see, dogs age faster than we do and major health changes can occur in a short amount of time. Moreover, your dog is living longer, which increases the chance of potentially serious illnesses during their lifetime.

These wellness exams can help your veterinarian diagnose, treat or prevent problems before they become life threatening. Additionally, these exams allow the veterinarian to discuss nutrition, your dog's behavior or other concerns you may have.

In return for all this attention, your dog will reciprocate with unconditional love, friendship and affection. Try to educate yourself to protect your dog from these and other harmful threats. If we were to think in terms of finances, what a wonderful return on your investment!

About the author: Robert Benson operates http://www.ezshoppinghere.com a website devoted to helping shoppers find unique gift ideas in unique places. Choose from a variety of merchants that offer Pet Supplies and a mega mall with over 300 stores for one stop shopping.

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Tips to Building Useful Dog Houses

Author: Julien Raynal

The term in the ""Dog house"" used to mean that one was in some sort of trouble. These days dog houses are worth being in. The pet business is becoming a booming business. There are stores selling pet accessories opening up and businesses dedicated to making mans best friend comfortable. Not only do dog houses provide shelter from the elements, they are also designed to be comfortable, safe and clean.

Dog houses now offer more than just a few pieces of lumber and some nails. There are many different types of dog houses available in the market; some simple and others more complicated. To ensure that your pet gets exactly what it needs, build one yourself. Include in your dog house budget other necessary pet accessories like appropriate toys for inside and outside use.

Building a dog house can be a fun family project. First go online and find what dog house plans there are and decide on one. Make sure that the plan is suited to match your dog's size and is also suitable for the climate that you live in. Use building materials that can last and survive the elements and are locally available. Consider the proper bedding within your dog house and determine the dog house best location.

Dog houses do not need to be overly complicated. Keep in mind dog houses main purposes are to keep it dry, to keep the dog out of the elements and to provide for the dog's safety. A dog house can also be built to include a storage area for all the pet accessories.

Dog houses need to be kept dry.

Dog houses should be water proof and should have the ability to stay dry; even when the dog brings water into the dog house. Keeping the dog house dry is not only for the dogs comfort but a dry dog house may prevent the growth of bacteria, parasites and viruses that can cause certain health issues for the dog. Installing windows that will allow for cross ventilation can be helpful or better install a fan to circulate air. If you live in an area where humidity is a problem, a canvas flap may be installed as a door.

Dogs cope well with the elements.

Dogs have the body hair which acts as insulation. Short hair dogs and long haired dogs are both designed to keep warm in cold weather. Putting a heat source into a dog house isn't necessary depending on you live. Comfort is crucial. Use reasonable judgement to make sure that your pet will be able to stand in a dog house under current weather conditions of the area you live in. Therefore, insulating a dog house wall isn't necessary if you live in Florida but could definitely be a consideration if living further north. Proper installation of insulation can be a hazard as the dog may start pulling on it and inevitably eat some of it. Once again, careful thoughts and planning are necessary to create a succesful environment.

Size Matters

Since the dog's body is going to keep the dog house warm, it does not make sense to build a dog house that is too big. Measure the dog's size when he curls up for his nap and add a few inches; this should be a comfortable inside size for a dog house. Also add a few inches of height taller than its shoulder.

Other tips

Your local building supply store or lumber yard offers the supplies you need for your dog houses. Wood is the preferable material; make sure it is treated to prevent the growth of unwanted germs. Do not use cement floors as these tend to be cold during winters. Finish the dog house with pet accessories like bedding materials and pet toys. Pet accessories can be purchased at any of your local pet supply stores. Alternatively, there are many online stores that sell the pet accessories you need to have for your dog in his new happy home.

About the author: Symphony, Inc. presents a wealth of resources. Find out at www.symphonydoghouses.com .

Friday, October 10, 2008

Purchasing Quality Dog Sweaters and Fleece T-shirts

Author: Connie Limon

Snoopy was comfortable sleeping in the snow on top of the dog house. Your pooch would rather stay warm in a comfortable sweater or fleece t-shirt.

Today, dog sweaters and fleece t-shirts are quality garments. Don't even both with those silly acrylic things pet stores use to carry and some still do carry. The dog sweaters and fleece t-shirts designed today are made of fine wools, angora, mohair, cashmere and top of the line fleece.

Finding the right fit for a sweater and/or fleece t-shirt can be a little tricky, but this also is much improved with sizes ranging from xxxs to xxxl, many are custom made to your dog's specific measurements. There is just as much variation in dog sizes as there are in human size clothing.

Sweaters and fleece t-shirts do have some leeway since they usually stretch a bit.

When trying on the sweater or fleece t-shirt the following is some points you need to take into consideration:

* The garment should fit around the neck comfortably. * The legs should have a comfortable fit. * If the sweater or fleece t-shirt has sleeves, can the dog walk and move freely? The armholes should be large enough to allow movement, but snug enough to keep the warmth inside the sweater or fleece t-shirt. * If the sweater is held on with straps and ties, make sure they are loose enough to be comfortable and tight enough to not get snagged when your dog plays. * Be sure there is plenty of clearance for potty time. * If your long-haired dog is cut short or is just about to be cut short, remember the amount of hair affects the fit.

Getting in and out of the sweater or fleece t-shirt easily is an absolutely must. The same sweater or fleece t-shirt may work perfectly on one dog and be most difficult to get on and off of another dog. A sweater or fleece t-shirt that is an easy fit for a sleek Miniature Pinscher might not work so well for a Pekingese.

Cardigan sweaters are easiest to get on and off if they close on the back rather than the front of your dog. Zippers on sweaters can make it easier to get in and out of the sweater, but be sure that a zipper is not going to get caught in your dog's coat, and that the zipper is easy to slide open and closed. If the sweater comes with a Velcro fastener, make sure the Velcro is placed in a way that it doesn't get caught in your dog's coat.

Sweaters that have sleeves for all four legs can be more difficult to get on and off and can be more difficult to size correctly for your dog. These types of sweaters do add more warmth, however.

When looking for quality in your dog clothes remember that a high price is not always the hallmark of quality in dog clothing. Quality can mean seams are well-sewn and that the yarn or material is soft and comfortable, but the price tag be minimal. Most owners keep their dog's tummy trimmed short for cleanliness and the material touching this tender area of the dog should be comfortable for the dog. Also be sure the material is comfortable for you when you hold your dog in your arms. Comfort for you the owner also means quality in the garment.

If you are looking for maximum warmth for wear on a blustery cold day, look for sweaters made of wool. If you live in warmer climates of if the sweater is mostly for indoor use, synthetic fabrics and fleece t-shirts are fine.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. Buy fleece t-shirts and other dog accessories at: http://www.littleguysdogclothesshop.com

Thursday, October 09, 2008

First Aid For Dog Bites And Insect Stings

Author: gene sower

Most dog bites occur around the neck, face, ears, and the upper chest area. And although most skin punctures from other canine teeth look simple and clean, there is often a considerable amount of damage through the flesh. Injuries, bites, or stings from insects and venomous animals are often difficult to find and administer symptomatic treatment. Contact your veterinarian if the dog shows any agitation at all. Below are several bite and sting descriptions as well as how to best deal with them.

Dog Bites

1. If you are witnessing two dogs fighting each other then be careful not to get yourself injured when trying to separate them. A safe and effective way to break up two dogs is by throwing cold water on them. Be sure to allow the dog some time to calm down before examining for possible injuries. If you spot skin that has been lacerated or punctured, clip the hair away from the wound.

2. Remove all of the clipped hair then carefully wash the area with warm water and a mild disinfectant. To prevent further hair from getting inside of the wound and causing irritation, apply a small amount of petroleum jelly around the outside of the bite.

3. If the skin is punctured, then take the dog to the vet to receive some sort of antibiotic treatment. If the skin is lacerated, then be sure to apply antiseptic cream to the area. Do not be alarmed if bruising occurs. If the laceration is severe enough then your dog may need to get stitches.

Bee And Wasp Stings

While playing outside your dog may experience being stung by a wasp or a bee. Although both types of insects are similar, they each leave a different sting. Wasp and hornet stings cause pain and swelling. Some dogs are very sensitive and allergic to stings and will react badly. If there is acute swelling to the mouth then immediate veterinarian care is vital.

When a bee stings your dog, it leaves an embedded stinger in the skin. If you suspect that your dog has been stung by a bee then examine the area carefully to pinpoint the stinger. Once located, remove the stinger with a pair of tweezers. You may need to look through a magnifying glass just to be sure you get the entire stinger unlogged. If there is excessive swelling once the stinger is removed, then apply an icepack.

About the author: Gene Sower is the publisher of the DOG BYTES newsletter and owner of http://www.naturalpetsworl d.com , a site devoted to offering a huge selection of natural pet foods at discount prices.

Wednesday, October 08, 2008

The Importance Of Giving Your Dog First Aid Treatment

Author: gene sower

It is our job as dog owners to make sure that our pets are happy and healthy. However, it is not always an easy job given that our dogs are curious and intelligent creatures with a tendency to get themselves into all kinds of trouble. And when they do get in sick or hurt, it is up to us to examine them and find out exactly what the problem is.

While there is no substitute for veterinary care, especially when your dog is seriously hurt or injured, there are many things you can do to save your dog's life and make him feel comfortable. The care and attention that you give to your dog during the first few minutes of an emergency can make all the difference between life and death.

Having the basic knowledge of giving first aid treatment is crucial in that time between the beginning of the emergency and upon arriving at your vet's office. However, do not use first aid treatments as a way of delaying much needed professional help. A more prolonged treatment can only be applied if you cannot reach medical care immediately.

In order to properly administer first aid treatments, it is important to plan ahead and have the necessary supplies on hand placed in a convenient location. Do not wait for the emergency to happen before you start putting together tools and remedies or to start reading ""how to do it"" manuals. By being prepared, you can help keep small problems from turning into big ones.

First aid supplies

The following are list of supplies that you need to have available in case of an emergency. You can either buy first aid kits at online catalogs or pet stores, or you can stock up on your own.

Here is what a first aid kit should include: Ammonia water, Hydrogen peroxide, Antibiotic treatment, Hydro cortisone ointment, Eyewash, and Antihistamine liquid.

The following are basic materials that you may need: adhesive tape, absorbent cotton, gauze rolls or pads, scissors (preferably with rounded tips), tweezers, a rectal thermometer; syringes (without the needle) for giving oral medications; two blankets (thick and strong), elastic bandages, an enema bag, soap, and a plastic bowl for preparing dilutions.

It is also important to have your vet's phone number available as well as the phone number of an emergency weekend visit or nighttime vet. You will also need a veterinary first aid manual to know exactly what to do in time of crisis.

About the author: Gene Sower is the publisher of the DOG BYTES newsletter and owner of http://www.naturalpetsworl d.com , a site devoted to offering a huge selection of natural pet foods at discount prices.

Tuesday, October 07, 2008

Guideline For Choosing Dog Treats

Author: Robert Thatcher

What makes you love your dogs? Is it because of the way he loves you in return and the eagerness that you feel when he attempts to please? This love can be more emphasized through dog training as it creates the firm bond between you and your pal.

One well recognized method of dog training is through the use of dog treats. But dog treats are not for positive reinforcement dog training alone. Most dog owners have used them as snack alternatives. This does not proceed pleasurable experiences but may also aid in maintaining your pal's health.

Like with other pet stuffs, there are considerations that an owner should first evaluate before allowing his pet to dog treats. Health components concerning with calorie content is on the priority list.

One of the growing concerns on dog health nowadays is obesity. Almost half of American dogs are overweight. Like with the case of human, obesity may lead to a variety of diseases like diabetes, heart disease and arthritis.

Overindulgence is thought as one of the contributing reason for obesity. This may be due to human factor. Most owners tend to give dog treats on an unregulated basis. For most, it doesn't matter how many calories does a single biscuit may contain. To resolve this issue, an owner needs to cut back on the daily calorie intake of his pet until he reduces some weight. Controlling the quantity of dog treats throughout the day may be of great help. You may also choose to lessen his foods gradually until he reaches normal weight. In line with this, it is ideal to stick with dog treats with low calories. The subject on obesity may further be resolved through consulting the vet and to implement a regular exercise regimen.

It is also an ill practice to give your dog commercially produced human foods. Some of which may contain elements that are not suited for your dog's health. Commercial foods are also often rich with fats and calories and low in nutrients and vitamins. Moreover, this practice is really not healthy for your dog's manners. This only encourages begging. Give him his dog treats in his own place instead but always bearing the thought of how healthy the dog treats you give are.

Tips on Dog Treats Selection

It is always best to buy naturally produced dog treats. These save you from unnecessary additives that may post threats against your dog's health. Fat and sugar-rich dog treats are complete no-no. look for dog treats that have high concentration of fibers and protein.

Dog treats that are primarily made from fishes are good sources of unadulterated health components. These are great foods for human as well as dogs. They are low in calories and fats.

Avoid giving dog treats before any major meals. If you are training him using positive reinforcement, cut back portions of his meals to balance his diet with dog treats.

There are dog treats that are especially made to optimize your dog's health. Working in the same principle as that of the vitamin supplements. These are aids to maintain your dog's health and may even relieve symptoms of certain diseases.

Don't allow that dog treats may cover as much as ten percent of your pet's diet.

In choosing the ideal treat, it is helpful to rely on your best judgements. It is you who know your pet well enough but in cases of doubt, you may as well consult a veterinarian.

About the author: Robert Thatcher is a freelance publisher based in Cupertino, California. He publishes articles and reports in various ezines and provides dog treat resources on www.about-dog-treats.info .

Monday, October 06, 2008

Bandaging Your Dog

Author: Peter Garant

Having a dog is a big responsibility. Some even compare taking care of a dog to that of a baby. The only advantage having dogs compared to having babies is that they won't grow older and turn into stressful teenagers. Because dogs are like babies they sometimes also end up in harmful situations. They would sometimes get themselves trapped in a tight place or get hit by something that will injure one of their limbs. When that happens, we should learn how to bandage our dogs to prevent further damage. Here are some basic ways of how to bandage your injured dog.

1. When your pet has a bandage, it should always be clean and dry. So it's pretty important to make sure your pet stays inside most of the time when it has a bandage. To prevent the bandage from getting wet when the pet goes to pee or poop, a trash bag or plastic covering should cover the bandaged leg. You may use empty bread bags. When your pet has wet or dirtied up the bandage, it would require changing. Make sure to check the bandage twice a day to see if it is clean and dry. Check also for foul odors or discharge and if there is any, call your veterinarian immediately.

2. After bringing home your pet from the veterinarian make sure that the bandage is still in place. Your pet might have been irritated by it and has chewed or tried to scratch it off. Look closely at the position and the location of the bandage when you do check. Look at the toes of the pet, the bandage might have slipped up making the toes stick out. Also look at the size, if the bandage has become loose. This should be taken into account when a dog has been bandaged in the abdomen or leg area. This is because one end will be bigger than the other and eventually become narrower. When the bandage telescopes down the limb of the dog it may bunch up and abrade the limb. When that happens, the bandage should be changed as well.

3. If the dog is bandaged up in the leg make sure it isn't too tight. Observe how the toes will appear at the bottom of the bandage at least twice a day. This is done to check for sweating, swelling, or pain. Check for skin chaffing, redness, discharge or swelling before and after the bandage has been applied.

4. To prevent the pet from chewing the bandage because of the bothersome experience it gives, put an Elizabethan collar. If you have observed that the pet is chewing or scratching it excessively, ask the vet if there might be problems.

These are the times that you should already be taking the pet back to the veterinarian:

* Swelling above or below the bandage * Chewing the bandage * Bandage becomes wet * Bleeding or discharge above, below or through * Scheduled bandage changes

About the author: Peter Garant's pet medicine site concentrates on pet care and dog medicine .

Sunday, October 05, 2008

How To Help Your Dog With Food Allergies

Author: gene sower

Because every dog is unique, it's sometimes very difficult to determine what causes food-related allergies and what doesn't. Common pet food culprits include wheat, corn and soy. Various proteins also create their share of problems in certain dogs. I was shocked to learn that some dogs are allergic to chicken, while I know from first-hand experience that my Jack Russell Terrier Lucy used to be allergic to beef. Here's an approach worth trying if your dog is exessively itching and scratching.

If excessive itching and scratching are the problems, that may simply be the lack of Omega 3,6 and 9 fatty acids in your dog's diet that's making their skin and coat dry. Winter indoor heating may also be exacerbating the condition. Adding simple food additives to your dog's food may be the key without switching diets. Supplements like Mrs. Allen's Shed Stop, Flaxseed Oil, Pet Botanics Skin & Coat supplement, Royal Coat from Ark Naturals or Health & Shine from Dr. Harvey's are all viable solutions for supplementing your dog's diet with the needed Omegas that dog's and cats need to lubricate their skin and coats.

Excessive and compulsive foot licking, or chewing and biting other parts of the body, are generally a sign that allergies are to blame.

Assuming it's food allergies and not environmental, many vets and pet nutritionists recommend substituting a protein source that your dog doesn't normally eat. Lamb is often used for this purpose, because it's not as common a dog food ingredient. Lamb, in and of itself, is not ""non-allergic"", but it's less common than chicken and beef so it enables you to introduce something new into your dog's diet, in effect, starting with a clean slate.

Some vets sell expensive ""allergy free formulas"" but there are ways to figure this out on your own and a lot less expensively. Increasingly, pet owners who have dogs with food allergies are feeding various pet food mixes like Dr. Harvey's, Solid Gold Holistique Blendz or The Honest Kitchen's FORCE formula, which is grain free, or Sojourner Farms' new grain free Europa formula.

Mixes, while a bit more work, allow you to more closely control what your dog is eating by beginning with a good ""base"" that contains the proper nutrients and vitamins especially formulated for dogs. Then, you can experiment by introducing your own protein sources (whether raw or cooked) and seeing how your dog reacts over the next few days.

Because The Honest Kitchen FORCE Formula is grain free but chicken-based, I would stick to the Dr. Harveys or the Europa which have no protein or grain sources. The Solid Gold Holistique Blendz formula is also a good choice but that already contains fish protein. Because fish-based protein is an unlikely protein source for your dog to begin with, it's unlikely that it will cause allergy problems now -- same theory with the lamb or any other uncommon protein like venison or buffalo or rabbit. If later you find that chicken is ok, I would give The Honest Kitchen FORCE Formula a second look, too.

Beginning with one of these neutral, grain-free formulas, try adding chicken for a week. If that goes well, than your dog is probably ok with chicken. Then try beef. Then lamb. Try, fish, too. If that goes well, than it was probably one or more of the grains.

Now a picture is starting to form. Your dog's allergies have improved with a grain free diet that includes certain proteins.

As we mentioned before, the point of introducing a different protein source to test your dog's tolerance is because if your dog is suffering some type of food-related reaction, common sense tells you it's something she's already eating. Can't be having reactions to something she never had yet, right?

Please note that when switching a dog's food, do it gradually over 5 to 6 days. Begin a 4 to 1 ration, old to new food, than 3 to 2 on day 2, than half and half on day 3, than 2 to 3 on day 4 and 1 to 4 on day 5. Day six, you're switched over completely. Than the real allergy testing can begin in earnest by sticking with the new protein source for a week and than introducing a new one every week taking note of your dog's reaction or, hopefully, lack of one.

As you've probably figured out by now, there's no one answer or ""Silver Bullet"" that will miraculously solve all your dog's allergy problems overnight. You have to break the cycle by moving your dog to a neutral, grain-free food and begin experimenting with different proteins. Once you find a protein or combination of proteins that work, try slowly introducing grain formulas back into the diet to see if there's a reaction or not. Using this gradual, common sense method combined with a good quality dog food should have your dog on the road to a happy, itch-free life.

About the author: Gene Sower is the publisher of the DOG BYTES newsletter and owner of http://www.naturalpetsworl d.com , a site devoted to offering a huge selection of natural pet foods at discount prices.

Saturday, October 04, 2008

The Top 10 Most Popular Dog Breeds

Author: Brian Alan Burhoe

""What are the most popular dogs?""

Popularity, of course, varies by region. Although there is some change from nation to nation, there is a greater change between regions. Because apartment-dwellers often want smaller pets, a list of the Top City Dogs would include such smaller dogs as the Miniature Schnauzer, Pomeranian and the Pug. The Most Popular Country Dogs are larger dogs, including the Collie and Siberian Husky.

Dogs in Literature and Hollywood have influenced breed popularity over the past century. When LASSIE COME HOME appeared in the 1940's, first as a novel and then as a movie, the Scottish-bred Collie became extremely popular as a family pet. In the 1970's, the movie BENJI became an immediate hit. Starring a lovable mixed breed dog that was adopted from an animal shelter (the original Benji was the dog Higgins who had worked on the TV show ""Petticoat Junction""), the movie started a popular franchise: five Benji movies, television programs and specials, comics, and even Benji merchandise. Dog breeders were deluged with requests for ""Benji-like"" terriers.

Hollywood and celebrities continue to popularize certain breeds.

What, then, are the Ten Most Popular dog breeds overall?

NUMBER 10: The SHIH TZU. The Shih Tzu (pronounced ""shidzoo"") has been known and loved as a small companion dog for at least 2000 years. Developed in China, this little ""lion dog"" is a happy, outgoing and intelligent character. Zsa Zsa and Eva Gabor brought the breed into the public spotlight in the 1960's, when they were photographed walking through the hot spots of Beverly Hills with their pet Shih Tzus. The breed has had an enthusiastic following ever since.

NUMBER 9: The BOXER. The Boxer originated in Bavaria, Germany, as a medium-sized security dog. The breed combines the blood of the English Bulldog with European mastiff-type breeds. With its deep chest, broad back and smooth coat (white with fawn or brindle) it makes a striking appearance. Introduced to North America by returning soldiers after World War I, the boxer has gained a reputation as a spirited, lively, pugnacious pet, but affectionate with its family and kind with children.

NUMBER 8: The CHIHUAHUA. The Chihuahua is the world's smallest dog. Named for the Mexican province where it often occurred, this breed may well be the descendant of an ancient toy breed of an earlier culture, perhaps the Mayan. They come in smooth and longhaired breeds. Both breeds are easy to groom and care for. They are bright, inquisitive, affectionate and courageous.

When Madonna was photographed with her beloved Chihuahua, Chiquita, she was just one of many celebrities sporting a pet Chihuahua. Noah Wyle, one of the hot stars of ER, was recently photographed with his Chihuahua while on holiday. Jennifer Lopez has also joined the exclusive club of famous Chihuahua owners. Younger celebrities like Britney Spears, Hilary Duff, Paris Hilton, Christina Ricci, Reese Witherspoon and members of Simple Plan have been seen with their Chihuahuas. The breed just increases in popularity.

NUMBER 7: The YORKSHIRE TERRIER. The Yorkshire Terrier has been a favorite among the ladies of the European aristocracy for almost a hundred years. When Audrey Hepburn was shown with her adored Yorkie, the breed gained popularity in America. The breed was created in the Leeds and Halifax areas of Yorkshire, England, for a much more mundane purpose: to catch rats in the coal pits and cotton mills. Its long coat of dark steel blue and bright tan requires daily brushing, but the results are worth it. With its strong terrier instincts, the Yorkie makes for a courageous, intelligent and lively companion.

NUMBER 6: The POODLE. The Poodle (or Caniche) is a very ancient breed, originally used for hunting water game, such as ducks. Its thick coat was originally given its distinctive trim to aid it in swimming. The Poodle has been bred in three sizes: Toy, Miniature and Standard. Although its thick coat and long, thickly feathered ears make it a high-maintenance dog, its disposition make the Poodle a beloved pet. It is a well-mannered, eager to learn, obedient and happy breed.

NUMBER 5: The BEAGLE. The most famous Beagle, of course, is a cartoon animal: Snoopy. The breed is an old one, its name coming from the Celtic word ""beag,"" meaning ""small."" The smallest version of the hunting hound, it was developed in England to hunt rabbit and hare. The Beagle makes a good family pet, being lively, friendly and affectionate.

NUMBER 4: The DACHSHUND. The Dachshund comes in a number of varieties, including the Longhaired, Smooth and Wire. The Dachshunds were developed in Medieval Germany to hunt otter, badger and fox. They were also used to track wounded game. Their long bodies and short legs made them adept at following a trail through even dense brush. Coming in all colors, these popular house pets, while sometimes willful and disobedient, are intelligent, happy and love their families.

NUMBER 3: The GERMAN SHEPHERD. The German Shepherd (or Alsatian) was little known in North America until the 1920's, when movie dogs such as Strongheart (THE SILENT CALL, 1921) and Rin-Tin-Tin (THE MAN FROM HELL'S RIVER, 1924) received almost overnight acclaim.

The German forerunners of the breed were originally used to protect flocks of sheep against wolves. In the 1890's, a German cavalry officer, Captain Max Von Stephanitz, perfected the breed that we know as the German Shepherd today. With their bright, intelligent eyes, large prick ears, broad chest, sloping body and long legs, they have the very appearance of the ultimate versatile breed. Used as military, police and search dogs, they also make excellent family pets.

NUMBER 2: The GOLDEN RETRIEVER. With its beautiful long coat of gold or cream, the Golden Retriever is considered by many to be the most perfect of dogs. The Golden's dense, water-repellent coat can be wavy or straight. These dogs are of British origin, developed in the mid-Nineteenth Century by Scotsman Lord Tweedmouth as hunting dogs and water fowl retrievers.

The Golden Retriever's intelligence and gentleness have earned it a well-deserved reputation as the perfect family pet. As well as being a reliable, gentle-mouthed retriever, this breed is obedient and easily trained.

NUMBER 1: The LABRADOR RETRIEVER. This dog originated in Labrador, Canada. Its forebears are the black water dogs which used to swim between boats and the shore carrying supplies. An excellent retriever of fish and game, the dogs became renowned for their intelligence and willingness to please. The coat is short and dense and in solid black, yellow or chocolate. Easy to train, the Labradors make perfect family pets, being trustworthy, obedient, good-tempered and excellent with children.

Every dog, of course, is the ""most popular"" to somebody!

About the author: Brian Alan Burhoe is the author of many dog-related articles and short stories. His fiction includes the free online story WOLFBL OOD A Northwestern in the Tradition of Jack London . Many of his articles can be found at PUPPY DOGS INFO Dog Breeds Training Care Literature . Or do an Author Search on GoArticles!

Friday, October 03, 2008

Dog Grooming - Brushing and Bathing

Author: Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Dog grooming is the basis for preventive health care for your dog and puppy. It gives you a chance to see small changes in and on your dog's body that could lead to health concerns such as a lump or problems in his ears or with his teeth.

Dog grooming can be a time of further bonding with your dog. This is some serious one on one time when he gets loads of your attention.

So what do you do and when do you start grooming your dog and puppy? As with most things with your puppy, you need to introduce him to dog grooming slowly and help him be comfortable with it. Start with short sessions of about five minutes and work up to the whole routine as he adjusts.

Begin with brushing and combing. There are several different grooming tools used for brushing and which you use depends upon the breed of your dog and the type of coat he has. Ask the breeder you got your puppy from for the proper techniques.

Brushing should be done before you bathe your dog or puppy. Bathing your puppy should begin when he is about 14 weeks old or sooner if he is a very dirty dog. Most dogs should need bathing only once a month unless he gets dirty. Wherever you decide to bathe your dog, bathtub, sink or some type of tub, place a rubber mat within to give him something secure to stand on so he won't slip around.

Soak down his body but not his face. Keep water out of his ears. You may wish to block his ear canals with cotton balls to prevent the water from getting into his ears. Lather up your wet dog with a dog shampoo. Rinse well. Any leftover shampoo in his coat is likely to cause dryness or skin irritation. Wipe his face off with a damp cloth. Squeeze off the excess water and then towel dry your dog. Complete the drying process with either a hair dryer set on warm, not hot, or by leaving him in a warm room until dry.

Be aware that a dog will shake just as soon as you release him. This is why some people want to run their dog outside quickly after a bath on a leash to prevent him from rolling and getting dirty again. If this is not an option, such as in winter, you may wish to consider a professional groomer.

A professional groomer may be a consideration for some of the more difficult haircuts and dog grooming considerations such as the stripping required by some wire-haired breeds. This depends upon your ability to do the required tasks and your desire to do them as well.

copyright 2005. Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

About the author: Visit our Puppy Training website at http://ezpuppytraining.com/ for a free course on ""Welcoming Your New Puppy Home and Puppy Training"". Find more puppy training and care tips at our website ezpuppytraining.com.

Thursday, October 02, 2008

Easy Weight Loss for Dog Lovers

Author: Michael Bens

If you need to lose weight, more than likely you are thinking in terms of diet and exercise plans, not pets. There are, however, several reasons why getting a dog may be the best thing you ever do, in terms of weight loss. Having a dog can lead to several small but significant lifestyle changes that all add up, over time!

For one thing, a dog requires a minimum of one hour a day of walking - and that's every day, not just sunny days, and not just when you feel like it. Of course, you can just take the dog into the yard and throw the ball for it, but why not take advantage of your canine companion and go for real walks every day? It's better for you, and better for the dog. Over time, it gets to be very enjoyable.

Some people feel that just the act of getting a new puppy is weight loss measure in and of itself. Until it's trained, it's more than likely to keep you on your toes - you'll be lucky to get a chance to sit down and eat, let alone cook! That initial crazy period usually ends pretty quickly, though. Besides walking, here are some other tips for easy weight loss with dogs.

Here's a great trick - feed any bits of food you don't want or think you shouldn't eat to the dog. For example, I haven't eaten a toast crust in over two years. I used to eat them just to be rid of them. It just seems wrong to throw them in the garbage, somehow. But feeding them to the dog is nothing more or less than symbiotic. You may not think this is a great weight loss measure, by the way, but I'm sure that all those crusts add up!

I must admit (and veterinary dog food purists, close your ears!) that it goes a bit further than that. What if you have made a yummy pasta dish, and there's just a little left, not really enough to be worth putting in a plastic container and saving? If it's not so good, I'd throw it out, but if it is good, that puts me in a spot. I'll probably either eat it outright despite being full, or pick away at it over the course of a few hours until it's gone. This can be avoided if you just simply and automatically give it to the dog. After all, dogs evolved alongside humans for millennia in exactly this way. They ate the leftovers of whatever their human companions were eating. Nowadays, the pet food industry cautions us against doing so, but if the food you're eating is reasonably healthy, who's to say that feeding small bits of it to the dog will do the dog any harm at all?

Personally, I have, on occasion, sunk even lower than that in canine gastrointestinal abuse. There is a brand of white cheddar popcorn, marketed as 'Smartfood' and sold in huge bags, with about a day and a half worth of calories in each. I love it. I love it so much I have been known to eat a whole bag over the course of a few hours. It's delicious. It's the kind of thing I should never buy a bag of. But if I do, and I've ripped into it, and it's disappearing, I can do damage control by periodically pausing in my binging to tip large amounts of the popcorn into a bowl on the floor, where it is just as quickly eaten up by the dog.

It helps to have a big dog. I don't know that any of these measures would work so well with a little one that can't eat quickly. It helps, also, if the dog is at least half black lab. They are purported to have iron cast stomachs, rather like goats, and this has proven to be true in the case of my dog - as proven when, at the age of eleven months, she ate four tubes of oil paint, metal and all. She ate all the reds, yellows and oranges, strangely enough ignoring the cool side of the color wheel completely - and, amazingly, suffered no ill consequences at all!

About the author: Authored by Michael Bens. For more great information on weight loss, diets, nutrition, and living a great healthy life style visit Gabae Weight Loss

Wednesday, October 01, 2008

Eddie Andelman's Hot Dog Safari Launches a new web site

Author: Animal 57

Eddie Andelman's Hot Dog Safari, has just launched a brand new web site (http://www.hotdogsafari.com) to help promote the nation's largest one-day charity event to raise funds for the Joey Fund for Cystic Fibrosis. Cystic fibrosis is a genetic disease affecting approximately 30,000 children and adults in the United States today. All proceeds from The Hot Dog Safari and the new website www.hotdogsafari.com , where viewers can donate directly to the Joey Fund, will go directly to the Cystic Fibrosis Research for children.

The Joey Fund, which works in partnership with the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, is an independent fund established by individuals in November 1986 in memory of Joey O'Donnell, a courageous fighter and victim of cystic fibrosis who died at the young age of 12. The Hot Dog Safari is the main fund raising event each year for the Joey Fund.

The idea for the Hot Dog Safari evolved back in 1990, when Boston sports broadcasting legend, Eddie Andelman ""The God Father of Sports Talk"" wondered aloud to his audience about the ultimate sports food: the hot dog. Nominations for the best hot dog were forthcoming. Heated challenges ensued. Eddie resolved the debate by organizing a bus trip for 200 people to visit certain locations to sample various hot dogs. As Eddie told his listeners: ""We are on a Hot Dog Safari"". The money from ticket sales went to benefit the Joey Fund.

In year two, the Hot Dog Safari grew to an attendance of 3,000 people when it was decided to offer the various hot dogs in a single location. Hot Dog Safaris III and IV yielded progressively higher attendance. Now in the (17th) year, the attendance at Suffolk Downs should be at an all-time high. Attendees pay $10 for a ticket and can eat all the hot dogs, sausages, buffalo fingers and ice cream they want. There is a full day of horse racing, face painting for the kids, raffles, sports celebrities and more.

Broadcast and advertising trade magazines have often referred to the Hot Dog Safari as one of the biggest and best radio promotions ever developed. More importantly, in a single day, well over $200,000 will be raised to find a cure for Cystic Fibrosis; a cure that the medical experts say is only a few years away.

The new web site for the Hot Dog Safari was donated by Animal 57 Productions, A Boston-based web design company for the 4th consecutive year, where a new web site has been created to promote this event.

To find out more about Cystic Fibrosis call 800-966-0444

About the author: Animal 57 is a full service web design, database application and Flash solutions company.