Ways In Which You Can Spoil Your Dog Rotten

Author: Gerald Njuguna

You spoil your pooch as close to rotten as you can get, don't you? Hey, who doesn't? It's almost impossible not to, with those adorable, big, beautiful eyes, the little lashes, and the soft fur just behind the ears they almost beg to be spoiled. But what can you really do? There are all of those new doggie day spas, doggie day cares, and other doggie luxury services, but how often can you really afford things like that? I mean, most people rarely have enough cash in the bank to get themselves a surprise manicure and pedicure, much less spring for their pups to get a quadripedicure. You give her a few scratches behind the ears, rub her belly, and maybe give her a massage and splurge on some gourmet treats, but you have to pay rent and eat each month. Your budget just doesn't allow for constant spoiling of your dog... Or does it?

You can make the shampoos, fragrances, and skin conditioners the doggie day spas use whenever you want for a lot less money than you think. Wouldn't your pup love to have an at-home spa treatment? Give these recipes a shot the next time you want to pamper that pup:

1. Aromatic Dry Shampoo

250 ml (1 cup) cornmeal 250 ml (1 cup) baby/talcum powder 5 ml (1 tsp) rosemary 5 ml (1 tsp) lavender

Combine all of the ingredients in a large, airtight container and let them sit overnight. This will allow the rosemary and lavender to scent the other two ingredients lightly. When ready, sprinkle generously over your dog and brush it into her fur by working your fingers against the lay of her coat. Once it's worked in thoroughly, use your fingers or a hard rubber brush to massage her coat in the direction of the fur but working in circles. Brush until the mixture is completely out of the coat. Your baby will smell great, the powder and cornmeal help absorb excess oil and dirt to clean her, and she won't have had to go through the trauma of having a full bath! How great is that?

2. Herbal Shampoo

470 ml (2 cups) purified water 10 ml (1 tbsp) rosemary 10 ml (1 tbsp) orange zest 30 ml (2 tbsp) chamomile 10 ml (1 tbsp) lavender oil 120 ml (1/2 cup) baby shampoo

Bring water to a boil, and then remove from heat. Add all of the herbs, cover the dish, and allow it to steep overnight. Strain the mixture and stir in the oils, then gently add the shampoo until well mixed. This shampoo should be kept refrigerated for freshness when not in use, but use about 2 tablespoons every time you wash your dog for a sweet-smelling, great treat for both of you. Don't forget to give her a little massage while you're rubbing it in!

3. Lemon Flea Dip

3 lemons 940 ml (1 quart) water 60 ml (1/4 cup) baking soda 5 ml (1 tsp) herbal shampoo

Cut the lemons into eighths while bringing the water to a rolling boil. Add the lemons, boil for one hour, then cover and let the mixture steep overnight. Strain the solution then add the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly. Warm to a tepid temperature before applying. To spoil your pup with the application, dip a sponge into the water and drizzle it slowly over her coat, then use your fingers to work it in using slow, deliberate circles focusing on points like the hips and shoulders. Give her a good massage - she deserves it! This shampoo uses citrus oil to help repel fleas, but the warm water and baking soda also help to soothe any existing irritations she may have.

See? Spoiling your dog is much easier and less expensive than you think, and I've compiled ""101 Ways to Spoil Your Dog for Under $10"" ebook for just that reason. Any dog owner knows how hard it is to resist spoiling their pup, and now there's no reason to resist! Spoiling her can be as easy as talking to her... you just might not realize the impact simple things have on her. Give the book a read, then try some of the ideas you'll find. You'll be amazed at how much closer and more

About the author: Gerald Njuguna is the owner of a dog lovers' site - DogPerfection.com - http://www.dogperfection.com. If you a looking for information dealing with everything to do with dog health, dog recipes and ways to spoil your dogs for under $10 then visit us today at http://doglover.dogperfection.com to claim your free gifts.

Dog Eye Problems - What To Watch Out For

Author: Rose Smith

Dog eye problems can occur at any time. You should pay close attention to your dog's eyes just as you would their teeth, so that you can catch any possible infections or injuries immediately and have them treated.

Dogs are vulnerable to several diseases and possible injuries due to the structure of their eyes. Always keep watch for signs of discharge, squinting, cloudiness, irritation and redness, or swelling. If your dog starts to bump into furniture, this could be a sign of vision loss.

The most common canine eye problems usually stem from the following:

* Cataracts - an opacity of the lens

* Cherry Eye - the dog's third eyelid's tear gland protrudes outward

* Conjunctivitis - an inflammation of the membrane that lines your dog's eyelids and the front of the sclera

* Entropion - eyelids are turn inward which causes the eyelashes to scratch the cornea

* Glaucoma - increased eye pressure caused by fluid buildup in the eye

* Progressive Retinal Atrophy - inherited vision-destroying diseases caused by deterioration of the retina's image-processing cells

This is by no means a complete list of possible eye diseases, but they seem to be the most common.

A dog's eyes may discharge for a variety of reasons. Allergies are often a major cause, as is irritation from dust or small specs of foriegn materials. Problems with tear ducks and drainage, bacteria and/or viruses may cause runny eyes, sometimes with a white or yellowish discharge.

One source of prevention and treatment is through natural, herbal and homeopathic eye washes. These natural medications are non-irritating, quite soothing and will promote natural healing of your dog's eye tissues. They are also good for removing foreign debris, clearing up the encrustation that sometimes builds up in the corner of the eyes, as well as opening tear ducts.

Be sure to always have your dog's eyes thoroughly checked at each annual veterinary visit or if you notice anything out of the ordinary. Catching possible dog eye problems before they become severe can help prevent future vision problems in your pet.

About the author: Copyright 2005. Rose Smith is the author and owner of Caring For Canines, a web site that provides information on natural dog health care. Please visit us at:

Don't Feed This to Your Dog

Author: Phyllis Wasserman

There are many foods that are seemingly harmless to us that can be toxic to your dog. Here is a list that you should remember and teach your children so they know that any of these items can make your dog very sick.

Raisins -- Both grapes and raisins can cause vomiting, diarrhea, and kidney failure.

Chocolate -- Chocolate contains a caffeine-like substance that can be toxic to dogs. The darker the chocolate, the more the effect. If they eat it, they can become excited, have increased urination, muscle tremors, seizures and rapid heart rate.

Sugarless gum -- Dogs eat gum every chance they get. Anything with xylitol, a sugar alcohol can cause a rapid drop in blood sugar in dogs. So no gum of any kind for your dog.

Onions -- A chemical in onions damages dogs' blood cells and can cause anemia. One small whole onion may be fatal.

Macadamia Nuts -- Never leave these nuts lying around on your coffee table. A compound in them may leave your dog with temporary paralysis in his hind legs.

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Tips on choosing the best dog house for your pet

Author: Nicole Martins

The Humane Society of America recommends dogs live indoors but sometimes it just isn't possible. Maybe you own a large dog and just don't have enough space in your home for the newest, furriest member. In this case, a dog house is a must. Here are a few tips on finding a dog house to suit your pet.

The most obvious factor - geographic location

If you live in an area with freezing cold winters and plenty of rain you should consider a heated dog house or at least one that is well insulated and waterproof. If it's really cold you can add in a heated bed or pad. Make sure you use a heated pad that's designed for animals and not humans, as the latter can get too hot for a dog. Heated pet beds operate safely at a lower voltage and are usually built to be chew proof. Look for cedar chip stuffing, too, as it repels the fleas. If you are concerned that other dogs or critters from the neighborhood will take advantage of this cozy, warm haven, choose a dog house with a magnetic door that allows only your dog to enter.

If you have the opposite problem and keeping your dog cool is more of a priority, make sure you choose a house that is well ventilated and position it in a shaded area of the yard. If your dog is really having trouble with the heat, some manufacturers offer air conditioned dog houses. And you can find specialty dog beds such as the Canine Cooler that help keep you pet feeling comfortable, especially when temperatures head over 100 degrees.

Another important factor is the size of the house

Measure the size of your dog to determine the length and height of the house you need. Your pet should have enough room to be able to turn around and stretch out but not so much space that they can never get warm. They're really just using the space to sleep so it doesn't have to be a mansion, just cozy.

Next, decide which material best suit your needs.

You can find dog houses made out plastic, wooden, PVC and galvanized steel. You can choose one that is completely finished, right down to the paint, to some that need partial assembly. And if you are a real do-it-your-selfer you can purchase a set of plans and build your own dog house.

What if your pet refuses to go into the dog house?

Sure, it can be tough convincing your dog that this really is what's best for him but there are ways to do so even if he is stubborn. Use his new home as a feeding location and he'll soon grow to love it. As added incentive, leave some treats and toys inside his new abode.

Once you've decided upon your dogs needs, take a look at the choices online. You'll find prices range from about $50 for a heated dog mat to several hundred dollars for a dog house that is insulated and heated. But when your dog heads out to his little house on that cold and rainy winter night you'll feel good knowing he's warm and cozy, and completely protected from the elements. For more information visit: http://www.a1-dogs.com/dog-houses.htm

About the author: Nicole Martins is author and publisher of http://www.a1-dogs.com a buyer's guide to the best dog supplies, dog products and dog accessories available online.

Finding A Good Pomeranian Dog Breeder

Author: Lee Dobbins

Buying a purebred dog is not something that should be taken lightly and not all breeders are equal. To make sure that you get a good quality dog that will be healthy and happy, you need to do some research and shop around.

The Pomeranian breed standard weight no more than seven pounds, but there are many Poms out there that weight 12 or even 20 pounds! While these may be great dogs and make good pets, they are not to the standard and you should not be paying the full price for a dog that will grow to this size. But how do you know how big a puppy will be?

One way to get a good feeling for how big your puppy might grow is to check out the parents. Are the parents tiny or large or just the right size? Than chances are your puppy will be the same size as the parents. If all the Pomeranians the breeder has are to breed standard and healthy, then this is a good sign that your puppy will be too. If the breeder will not show you the parents, then this is a red flag and you should keep looking for another breeder.

But how do you find a good Pomeranian breeder?

One way to find a good Pomeranian breeder is to get in contact with people who already own a Pom. Maybe somebody you know already owns one? Find out as much information about the breed as you can. If you go to a pet store, talk with people. Pet owners love to talk about their pets. If you see a Pomeranian that is exactly what you want, find out what breeder he was purchased from and check them out for potential candidates.

When buying a dog, you need to be armed with all the information you can get. Research Pomeranians on the internet and in books. Know that it is important to become an educated consumer BEFORE you buy your dog from a breeder.

When you talk with breeders don’t be afraid to ask questions. Honest dog breeders will be more than happy to talk with you and answer every question. Note the condition of dog’s environment. Are the dogs pens clean? Are the puppies well cared for? Can you see the parents? What type of puppy food are they being feed? Have the puppies had their shots? Reputable breeders love their animals and go to great lengths to provide a proper ""home like"" environment. Puppies are products of their surroundings. A good, clean environment will surely be reflected in a dog's playfulness.

Stay away from breeders who are interested only in making money. They generally don't pay much attention to their dog’s emotional needs and health concerns. Also, they may in-breed their Pomeranians and this can trigger severe health issues. AVOID THESE BREEDERS! Reputable breeders will be more concerned about the welfare of the puppies then the money and will probably grill you as to your home environment and ability to care for the dog.

Some breeders may offer a 72 hour guarantee. This allows time to take your Pomeranian puppy to a vet for inspection. If any health issues are identified, contact the breeder and get your questions answered.

Good, honest Pomeranian breeders care for their dogs and it shows in their surroundings. There are no guarantees that you will always have a normal, perfect puppy, but you greatly increase the odds when you do your homework first!

About the author: Lee Dobbins is a Pomeranian lover and webmaster of http://www.pomeranian-pages. com . Visit them to find out all about Pomeranians and get tips on Pom breeders at htt p://www.pomeranian-pages.com/Pomeranian-Breeders.html

Dog Fleas & Ticks

Author: John Moore

Dog Fleas & Ticks.

Fleas.

Dog fleas are different to those which infest humans and cats. When a flea bites, it injects saliva to stop the blood clotting whilst it sucks it up. The saliva contains chemicals which often cause an allergic reaction in the dog.

The signs are :-

Bites which look like small red pimples. Black, gritty material in the coat, and areas of inflammation on the animals back. Scratching.

What is the treatment ?

Spring-clean the house and treat the dog's favorite places with a suitable insecticidal spray. Flea tablets or collars are a good extra precaution, and spray badly affected animals frequently with insecticide during the summer months. (the flea season) Ticks The common tick seen on dogs is the sheep tick. this has a large abdomen that stretches as it fills with blood. It hangs on to the dog's hair and sticks it's mouth parts through the skin to suck blood.Ticks are usually found on the underside of the dog, under the forelegs and on the head.

What is the treatment ?

Try to remove every tick when you see it. It is important to extract the head, otherwise an abscess may form. If the head is left in, warm compresses help draw out the infection, combined with antibacterial washes and creams.

Removing a tick.

A good method is to get the tick's head to relax or die by dabbing it with alcohol. Wait a couple of minutes, then use fine-pointed tweezers to extract the tick. Grasp it near the mouth parts, and give it a sharp jerk. This should dislodge it.

Alternatively, flea sprays can be used locally on ticks. The tick will then die and can be removed the following day. Regular use of a flea spray in tick areas often keeps them away.

When my own dogs have suffered with ticks or fleas in the past, I've always managed to deal with them myself, but if you've any concerns at all with your own dog, then consult your vet as a precaution.

Author John Moore ..please use my link http://www.pet-dog-cat.com

About the author: Author - John Moore http://www.pet-dog-cat.com

Dog Worming

Author: John Moore

Dog Worming.

Regular worming is essential to protect your dog against internal parasites. This involves giving it preparations in liquid or tablet form. Adult dogs should be wormed at least once a year, and at least once every six months if in contact with children. Dogs showing any signs of infection should be wormed immediately and all breeding bitches should be wormed prior to mating.

Roundworms.

Several of these parasites affect dogs but the most important are the ones that belong to the Ascarid family, and live in the small intestine. Other roundworms infest the large intestine, blood vessels and respiratory tract. Ascarids feed on digesting food in the dog's gut, and are particularly harmful to puppies. They penetrate a puppies gut wall and pass via the blood to the liver and then to the lungs. From there they crawl up the trachea to be coughed up and swallowed, again ending up in the gut. Infected puppies may develop :-

Hepatitis, pneumonia, fits, and obstruction to the gut, so regular treatment is vital.

As the puppy gets older most of the worms travel to the muscles, where they form cysts. These lie dormant until the puppy bitch becomes pregnant. They then migrate to the puppies lungs, and this is why virtually every puppy is born with roundworm, and must be wormed regularly.

How Roundworms Affect Humans.

These worms can infect humans, and in a very low number of cases, cause disease. Good hygiene and common sense concerning children and puppies should control the problem.

Tapeworms.

The tapeworm tickle the dog's anus and make the dog drag it's rear end along the floor. If you see any worm segments in your dog's faeces, treat it as soon as possible.

As a dog lover myself, I treat my own pets at least twice a year. Worming tablets can be bought cheaply at your local supermarket or petshop, so there's no excuse for not treating your own pet on a regular basis.

Thank you for reading my article. I do hope it's been enjoyable. Author and animal lover - John Moore...please use my link http://www.pet-dog-cat.com

About the author: Author and pet lover John Moore http://www.pet-dog-cat.com

Become A Certified Dog Trainer

Author: Marc Lindsay

Until the creation of the Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers in 2001, there was no nationally available certification process for dog trainers. The CCPDT's certification program is the first national certification for dog trainers.

Many schools teach dog trainers and offer certification for their specific programs. These certificates, therefore, reflect the teachings and quality of a specific school. Other organizations offer take-home tests for ""certification."" These tests are not monitored, nor are the testing processes standardized.

Candidates who pass the exam earn the title Certified Pet Dog Trainer and may use the designation, ""CPDT,"" after their names. As creators of the examination, the task force members have also earned the use of the CPDT designation.

All certified trainers must earn continuing education credits to maintain their designations. They must also adhere to a strict Code of Ethics in their dog training practices.

Why would you as a dog owner care about dog training certification? You care about your dog. You want a positive experience for both you and your four-footed friend. Whether you are looking for a training class or private training, you are looking for a high-quality, safe, and effective training experience.

When you choose a Certified Pet Dog Trainer, you can be confident that you are working with a professional who has the knowledge and expertise to make your investment in dog training safe, effective, and even fun! Certified Pet Dog Trainers have dog training skills as well as instructor skills to enhance the experience and success for you and your pet dog.

Certified Pet Dog Trainers have earned this credential by demonstrating their knowledge and experience in dog training. A Certified Pet Dog Trainer stays informed of current knowledge in the field and is familiar with the latest, most effective training techniques and equipment. A Certified Pet Dog Trainer adheres to a strict Code of Ethics.

The Certification Council for Pet Dog Trainers is committed to maintaining rigorous testing and recertification systems to provide dog owners with information to help them make an informed choice when selecting a dog trainer.

So the next time you need a dog trainer, look for a professional with the Certified Pet Dog Trainer credential. Your dog will thank you!

About the author: Dog House Training and Puppy Training product reviews so you know you are only teaching your dog the very best techniques

Dog Safety: How to Keep Your Pups Safe From Loss or Theft

Author: Jennifer McVey

According to the American Humane Society, just 15% of dogs in shelters ever find their way home again. Thankfully, these loved pooches had identification, enabling shelter personnel to contact and return them to their owners. With such discouraging statistics, it becomes clear how important it is to tag or identify your new puppy.

Even if your dog doesn't go outside much or is always in your company, you must identify him or her. Windows and doors can be left open, offering your pup a too-tempting escape to the outside world. What should you do to keep your pup safe at home?

There are several ways to ID your pet to prevent against loss or theft. Ideally, implement at least two methods to ensure a safe return should your dog go missing.

Tattoos and microchips provide permanent ways to identify your dog. Shelters, veterinarians, and research laboratories know to look for these keys when animals are brought to their facilities.

*Tattoos: this permanent identification system involves tattooing a code onto the dog's skin, often inside the outer ear or on the inside of its leg. Veterinarians or trained specialists will ink the code for you. You will need to list your dog with one of the many tattoo registry programs around the country.

*Microchips: these minuscule electronic chips are embedded under your dog's skin. Because special scanners are needed to read the information located on the chip, most veterinarians, shelters, and research laboratories have these on hand to scan all strays for identification. Several registries offer membership for dogs with microchips.

While tattoos and microchips offer excellent safety measurements at a reasonable cost, the fact is most people don't know to look for a tattoo or have the means available to scan for microchips. As a result, it's essential you provide your pup with an ID tag worn on its collar. ID tags are often the first thing searched for when a stray is found by someone.

At a minimum, the tag should list a current phone number. Because people move and phone numbers change often, a second phone number of a trusted friend or family member is also recommended. If space is available, additional information to include is: your puppy's name, your address, and any medical conditions.

Luckily, dog ID tags are not expensive to purchase, so it should be one of the first things you get your dog, once you've chosen a name. You can usually find just the right tag, too, that fits your lifestyle and your pet's personality. Tags come in different materials, such as aluminum, brass, stainless steel or plastic, and in a variety of shapes and colors. Today's glamour pooch can even have his or her own tag made of Swarovski crystals! When it comes to choosing a fun dog ID tag, the choices are limitless.

Whatever methods you use when protecting your pet against loss or theft, please remember to keep the contact information current. Just a few minutes of your time to update registry information or purchase a new dog tag can make all the difference in the world in your beloved dog's life.

About the author: The author, Jennifer McVey, wants you to keep your dog safe and at home. To learn more, visit www.favorite-puppy-nam es.com . You'll also find a collection of thousands of common and not-so-common puppy names to enjoy and great tips on naming a new puppy.

What You Should Know About Your Dog's Sleeping Habits

Author: Amy Howells

It’s important to understand your dog’s sleeping habits and how they influence its behavior, particularly when your dog gets disturbed.

You see, Dogs will usually sleep for around 13 hours every day. Although this can vary between different breeds, this still means your dog is going to be asleep for almost half it’s life!

Dream time.

Your dog will tend to circle before lying down to sleep

As he would do in the wild, where he would trample down vegetation to create a bed, typically in longer grass where his presence will be concealed.

Temperature also influences the way in which a dog sleeps.

If it’s cold, your dog will curl up in a ball to conserve body heat. (just as puppies do by sleeping together instead of stretching out).

It’s not unusual for an adult dog to lie on his side while he’s sleeping, and start moving his legs as if he were running.

The eyelids and whiskers may twitch too at this stage, which is usually a sign of what we humans call ‘deep sleep’.

Dogs generally spend most of their time sleeping lightly.

Sleeping habits.

Seeing as dogs are descended from opportunistic hunters, dogs instinctively wake when there is an increased amount of activity around them.

However, if a dog is deliberately woken, particularly if it is disturbed by a child, he may react aggressively and bite without warning.

The phrase ‘let sleeping dogs lie’ should give you a clue!

Also, your dog may be a little unwilling to settle down again if woken at an unusual hour.

This means it’s important to establish a set routine for a new dog from the outset. This includes things like exercising, feeding and sleeping times.

A new puppy is likely to be distressed on its first few nights in a new home, as this will be the first time that he will have been separated from its littermates.

Within a pack, there is no visible hierarchy in the order in which the dogs sleep, although they will instinctively sleep close to their fellow members. (Although the alpha dog will usually sleep apart).

If your new pup has been allowed to spend the night in the bedroom, it can become problematic to expect it to sleep elsewhere.

Its instincts suggest that it has been driven away from the pack.

By being firm right from the start and establishing that your dog sleeps on his own, you can ensure that he doesn’t experience this ‘rejection’ once he gets a little older.

Dogs can get restless during the night if they’re not exercised regularly. Although he may also nap continually if there isn’t much happening.

While you are out, your dog may find its way to your bed, just to be near your smell. An old item of clothing, which will carry your scent, will comfort your dog when you are not there.

Sleeping postures.

Puppies often appreciate contact with littermates when sleeping, just in the same way that many dogs prefer to lie against a wall or next to their owner’s feet. This probably gives them a sense of security.

About the author: Amy Howells is an expert dog trainer and author. Visit http://www.dog-owner.n et/e-course.htm to get an astonishing free e-course that reveals the short-cut secrets to training any dog in 21 days!

Hurricane Katrina: A Lesson in Emergency Preparedness for You and Your Dog

Author: Kimberly Zlatin

Heart wrenching images of Hurricane Katrina’s four-legged victims are too much for most of us to bear. Fortunately the majority of people around the country have their loving companions next to them while they are watching the devastating news of dogs left to fend for themselves and people making the choice of their pet or their own rescue. A disaster such as Hurricane Katrina is not a common occurrence, but it does bring up important questions about what you would do with your dog if an emergency did arise in your household and you were unable to return to your home. Some important facts to keep in mind:

• Is your dog microchipped? The majority of shelters have a scanning device that can read the microchip that is placed under your dog’s skin. The microchip carries important identifying information for your dog and can be provided at many shelters and vet’s offices for a nominal fee in a matter of seconds.

• Make sure your dog has a collar with updated identification tags. This is a simple way for people to contact you if your dog has been found.

• Find out where lost dogs are taken in your neighborhood. Some cities have a central location where dogs are placed for the first 24-48 hours before being relocated to area shelters. Save yourself time by doing a little research now!

• Have a sign in your window so emergency personnel know that there is a pet inside your home that needs to be rescued.

• Have a designated person(s) to check in on your pet in case of an emergency. Give them a list of reputable boarding facilities just in case they are not able to take your dog into their own home.

• Where are your local emergency vet clinics? You do not want to be scrambling for this information when your dog needs immediate care.

• Is your dog up to date on vaccinations? If your dog is placed in a shelter, boarding facility, or lost on the street you want to make sure that he is protected against diseases that he would not otherwise be exposed to in your home.

• Where can you go with your dog if you must leave your home unexpectedly? Keep a list of dog-friendly hotels so you know where you can go if you are unable to stay in your home.

• Bring familiar objects for your dog. If possible, grab a favorite toy or dog bed with familiar scents that can reduce anxiety in a stressful situation.

• Never underestimate the power of the internet! Email yourself or a friend a picture of your dog so you have a picture available to post in case of separation. You can send the picture to local shelters and websites such as Craigslist.com or Petfinder.com.

A little advanced planning on your part could be the difference between a happy reunion or heartache for you and your dog. While we all pray that we will never need to use this information, having it on hand as a quick reference can bring some peace of mind in an emergency situation.

About the author: Kimberly Zlatin is a freelance copywriter and entrepreneur. She owns and runs BarkSlope.com, an online dog boutique. Kimberly can be contacted at kim@barkslope.com or 773-572-8222.

How To Choose The Perfect Dog Name For Your Puppy.

Author: Richard Cussons

So you've brought home your new puppy, it's time to name your new animal friend but you’re running short on ideas. Choosing a name for your dog can be hard if you aren't feeling very creative, so here we give you a head start with the basics and some great ideas to help you choose the perfect name for your puppy.

Three Basic Dog Name Guidelines

1. Pick a name your dog can easily recognize. Dogs usually respond better to one or two syllable names. If you do want to go for a dramatic and unusual long name, consider whether you can easily shorten it to something a bit simpler for your dog to understand.

2. Avoid dog names that sound like the standard commands of No, Stay, Sit, Come, Down or Fetch. For example ""Joe"" is probably too close to ""No"". It can be difficult for dogs to tell the difference between similar sounding words.

3. Choose a name that's both easy to call out and one that you are happy calling out. Remember, you will be calling your dog's name out in public places at times and shouting out “Parsnip“ in the local park, may leave you feeling a little embarrassed! You also want a name that will work well when you are straining your voice to call your pet as he disappears into the sunset chasing after a rabbit!

Looking For Dog Name Inspiration

Start with the obvious. Take a long hard look at your new little friend he may be telling you his name without you knowing. Look at his appearance, behavior, personality, and disposition. Names like Spot or Red may come to mind. How about Bandit for a dog who steals things or Rebel for a stubborn dog?

Then look elsewhere for inspiration. You can name your dog after another famous dog, for example Pluto, Pongo, Lassie or Digby. What about your favourite sports, movie, music or comic strip star?

How about choosing a dog name after a member of your family or friend of a figure from history like Napoleon, Alexander the Great or Rasputin? Take a look at your environment or think about your favourite place they will give you more ideas.

Remember, the dog name you choose for your puppy says as much about you as it does about your pet. It shows how you view your dog and your relationship with him. But other people may judge your dog’s character by reference to its name and might therefore react negatively or fearfully to a ‘dominating’ name when meeting it. It is a good idea to use a dog name that conveys the image you want your pet to have.

Also, pick a name that will grow with the pet. For example ""Tiny"" may be less appropriate for a full-grown dog.

Whichever method you choose, have a good time doing it and choose a name that you will want to keep.

Teaching Your Puppy Its Name

Pick a dog name that pleases you and stick to it. It can be confusing for your puppy if you keep changing your mind. Your dog will learn his or her new name quickly if you use it often. When you call your pet, use his name. Do not say ""here puppy"". Calling your pet by his name will help him to become familiar with it and with your voice as well.

If choosing a long name keep in mind the shortened version. A long name will inevitably be shortened, but it may ruin the effect that you were originally looking for.

Above all have fun and choose a name you really like. Your puppy will undoubtedly become your best friend and only you can find just the right name.

About the author: Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. Discover more about dog names, puppy care and traning at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/dog_names.html.

What's The Best Dog Toy For Your Adult Dog?

Author: Adam Katz

As a professional dog trainer, people often ask me what dog toys I recommend they should buy and which ones I use for my own dogs.

Here’s the answer: Your dog doesn’t need more than two toys. Rotate them, so he doesn’t get bored. But remember: We’re talking about an animal that eats the same food, day in/day out. And while your dog needs mental stimulation in the form of play and obedience training, they will be perfectly happy with chewing on the same toys, for years.

(Much the same way young children can watch the same Barney movie 100 times without getting bored!)

So… what are the two best dog toys in my opinion?

- The Kong. Either in red or black. (Sometimes you need to play with your dog and this toy a bit, before your dog gets interested in it… but once they do… LOOK OUT. The benefit of this toy is that they can chew on it for months and months, in most cases. You can also stuff it with doggie treats, cream cheese, peanut butter or whatever.

- The rope toy. This is usually sold in either white or multi-strand colors. It is a thick piece of soft rope, tied in a knot on each end. Another great toy because—compared to the rawhide bone—this toy will last weeks or months.

There are other popular dog toys on the market, too. Everything from the brain stimulating ""Buster Cube"" to the tried and true pig ears and rawhide bones. Consult your veterinarian before giving your dog any new toy, and supervise accordingly.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

A Fundamental Dog Training Concept You Must Understand For Success With Your Dog

Author: Adam Katz

I moved into a new house about 14 days ago.

The funny thing about this house is that—when you walk into the master bathroom, the light switch is on the left side, opposite of where the sink is.

Well, practically every other house I’ve ever lived in has always had the light switch on the right side—or at least on the same side as the sink.

And I’ll be a monkey’s uncle if EVERY SINGLE TIME I’ve walked into that bathroom, my hand doesn’t instinctively reach to the right to turn the light switch on. Even after 14 days, my prior conditioning has been so engrained that when I consciously try to remember which side the light switch is on… my hand still shoot out to the right, instead of the left.

This is the exact same type of conditioning we aim for when training our dogs. And this is why I advise that--- even after your dog understands a command—you continue to say, “come” and then give a tug on the line… up to a year after the initial training session.

I want your dog to be so conditioned to respond to commands that it becomes an automatic response—just like turning to the right instead of the left, to turn on the bathroom light.

As I’ve already touched on this concept a few years ago in my book, which you can read more about at Dogproblems.com … I just had to share this experience with you, because it was so comical to the extent to which we animals (yes, we’re animals too!) can develop conditioned responses.

Just like our dogs.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Dog Breeds: How To Choose The Perfect Dog Breed For You!

Author: Richard Cussons

If choosing dog is such a straight forward process, and it is, how come so many puppies find their way into adoption centres every year? Well one reason is that people choose the wrong dog breed.

Don’t let your puppy become a statistic. Make it your goal to choose a puppy suited to your family and circumstances. Think about your previous experience of owning a dog and the amount of time you have for training, grooming and exercising. Look at your health including possible allergies, your financial resources and the amount of space in your house and yard. Most of all work out how much time you have for a dog.

Of all the different factors in choosing a the right dog breed, among the most important is the relationship you want with your dog. Some breeds by nature are rather aloof and elegant, others are independent and energetic while others are dependent or submissive. If you want to do specialized training, consider breeds known for courage and trainability. If you want an affectionate pet, choose a breed that typically likes to be close to its people.

To ensure that your puppy fits in with your lifestyle begin by asking yourself these questions:

a) How much time can I spend with my dog, a social creature who craves companionship? - If your time is limited don’t get a breed which can become dependent on their owners.

b) How much exercise can I give my dog? - If you hate exercise, buy a small dog happy with a short walk. If you like to walk the mountains all day long get a dog breed which likes a lot of exercise.

c) How much grooming can I do? - If you hate grooming, buy a short-haired dog.

d) How much training can I give? - If you have limited time, choose a breed known for ease of training.

e) How much room do I have? - If you live in a small apartment don’t get a large dog!

f) What characteristics do I want in my dog? - Think of words like independent, energetic, submissive, affectionate, protective, quiet, funny or sociable. Try to match them to the characteristics of your family members. Your dog will fit in much better if you do.

Finding The Right Dog Breed

Once you have answered these questions it is time to go out and find the right dog breed for you. The internet is a great place to start. Just go to your favourite search engine and type in something like “dog breed information” or “dog breeds” and you will find some excellent sites giving detailed information about each breed.

Note the characteristics of the different breeds. What is best for your situation: large or small, male or female, purebred or mix? Short coat or shaggy coat? A dog needing lots or little exercise? A lot or little daily grooming? Think through your choices in detail and compare this information to your requirements and make a short list.

Next ask people you trust about the dog breeds you are interested in. Ask friends, family members and co-workers for suggestions of dog breeds they think would be good for you and your family. Ask them to be honest about the good points and bad points of the breeds they suggest. Visit dog training schools and breeders and ask about the dogs your think may be suitable. Follow up on and meet the breeds you feel are a good match.

Finally make every effort when choosing a puppy to make your final choice of a dog breed a family decision. Your dog will be part of the family, and each member needs to feel a sense of ownership for the dog and a willingness to help in its care.

So there you have it a short guide to choosing a puppy that will fit into your family perfectly and bring years of fun and happiness.

About the author: Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. You can find out more about dog breeds, training and care at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/.

How To Train An Abused Dog

Author: Adam Katz

Many people who’ve adopted older dogs— especially stray dogs or dogs from the animal shelter— assume that their dog has been abused in the past.

So, how do you train an abused dog?

Let’s get right to the heart of the matter and state that— in order to learn how to train an abused dog, we need to first define what an abused dog is:

Of course, there are all types of different abuse. Everything from a dog being hit with a hammer to a dog simply being left and ignored in the back yard for months or years can constitute abuse.

But for the purposes of this article, we’re going to define an abused dog as any dog that shows specific signs of extreme timidity in response to regular behavior by you. I.E., Petting, grooming, feeding, walking, etc…

These are what you might call “high-functioning” abused dogs. In contrast to dogs that have been used (for example) in laboratory experiments. Or dogs that have been physically scarred and wounded. Working with such dogs is (or should be) clearly outside of the scope of this article.

So— How do you work with a “high functioning” abused dog? And how do you teach your dog to relax and enjoy life?

The answer can be found in starting obedience training along the lines of the principles I’ve outlined in my book (which you can read more about at): http://www.dogpro blems.com/secretsbook.htm

I can hear it already, “But Adam—you advocate using a leash and training collar when you train a dog, and my little, shy “Muffy” already wets himself when I bend over to pet him…

[ALERT: I’m about to make a broad GENERALIZATION:]

In general, most “high functioning” abused dogs continue to display timid behavior because they are unclear as to when they’re doing the RIGHT thing and when they are doing the WRONG thing.

If you follow my approach to dog training, your dog quickly learns-- or more specifically, you learn-- how to communicate with your dog in a way that will make him relax and know when he’s doing something wrong and when he’s doing something right.

And what I’ve found with these dogs is that they quickly learn to become much more confident and self-assured through the process. Why? Because when you use intelligent dog training techniques, your dog is now clear about what’s going to happen and when, in a world he formerly had no guidance or clear leadership. He learns what is good behavior and what is bad behavior—instead of having to guess!

----------------------------------------------------- You read that right: The #1 Reason That Dogs Who’ve Been Abused In The Past Continue To Show Extreme Timid Behavior Is Because They Are Confused. -----------------------------------------------------

Once your learn how to communicate with your dog, and take away the confusion, you will see all the extreme timid behavior disappear! And the way to do this is to start intelligent obedience training.

“But should I use the leash and collar to correct my dog, if he’s got such a soft temperament?”

The answer is: Yes.

Which begs the question of how firmly you should correct your dog—which is something that differs from dog to dog.

Here’s a hint: You’ll figure it out by practicing with your dog. (If you haven’t already, please review the: Three Keys To Successful Behavior Modification chapter in my book). However, the issue is not “Should I correct a dog that has been abused in the past” but rather “When I’m communicating to my dog when he’s done something incorrectly—how firmly should I correct him?”

And the answer to this question is: Only firmly enough to extinguish the unwanted behavior and communicate to the dog that he shouldn’t do it again. Like I mentioned: You’ll learn this by practicing with your dog. If you employ the concepts of timing, consistency and motivation—you’ll have nothing to worry about and your dog will gain confidence and self-assuredness from your efforts.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Beware The Dog Days Of Summer!

Author: Angie Noack

Heat is one of the worst enemies that roses face, and the months of July and August can be scorchers. Not only are your roses at risk of heat damage, but the accompanying humidity breeds insects and fungal diseases.

Here's a look at what we can do to keep our roses beautiful and healthy until the cooling days of autumn arrive.

Make sure that your roses have all the water that they need. Remember to water from the roots and not from the top to avoid fungus development and to make sure that your bushes can drink their full.

Water daily when the temperature is at or above 90F. Pot-grown roses may need to be watered twice per day. Avoid watering during the hottest times of day to guard against excessive evaporation.

Spray fungicide on a weekly basis to keep these humidity-born diseases at bay, and cut back canes and foliage which show any signs of infection.

Apply light feedings of fertilizer at least three times per week. Don't over-fertilize as this will cause burning.

Apply 2 to 3 cups of organics weekly, and stop applying your organics during the last week of August.

July and August are prime times for spider mites who thrive in the heat and humidity. Spritz your foliage and buds with water on a regular basis to show these pests that they are not welcome on your roses.

Now is not the time to fall behind on your deadheading chores. Your canes need all of their strength to support new growth, so pay careful attention.

Start cutting back your roses in the latter part of August so they will be ready to produce those huge autumn blooms which are right around the corner.

Trim the stems and branches that are trying to grow toward the center of the bush. This not only increases air circulation, but it removes prime breeding grounds for spider mites and helps to reduce the appearance of fungus infections that thrive in hot, moist areas within your bushes.

If you are planning to exhibit your roses in any of the fall shows, you'll need to carefully time your cane pruning activities in order to allow enough time for recycling to occur.

Here is a chart of the most common recycling times for selected species. Soil condition, temperature, bush health and other planting and growing conditions may cause these times to vary widely, so use this chart only as a guideline.

Slow recycling roses, such as ""Uncle Joe"", ""New Zealand"" and ""Touch of Class"" require 50 to 60 days to recycle.

Medium slow roses, including ""Crystalline"", ""Elizabeth Taylor"", ""Peace"", and ""Olympiad"" will require 50 to 54 days.

Your average varieties, which include ""Color Magic"", ""Double Delight"", ""Gold Medal"", ""Nicole"", and ""French Lace"" only require 45 to 49 days.

Fast varieties, like ""Altissimo"", ""First Prize"", and ""Fragrant Cloud"", will need 40 to 44 days.

""Dainty Bess"", ""Playboy"", ""Playgirl"", and the other very fast varieties will recycle in just 35 to 39 days.

About the author: Angie Noack is a home and garden strategist with a sharp edge for technology. With her unique ability to combine these two skills, she's able to help gardeners save time and increase productivity. You can find her online at http://www.dairyrose.com .

Can't Get Your Dog To Get Up And Come To You? Read This...

Author: Adam Katz

I was walking outside to open the front gate in front of my complex and saw two guys training a beautiful large German Shepherd dog, in front of my neighbor’s house.

They were both professional dog trainers that my neighbor had apparently hired to come by and train his dog when he’s at work.

I introduced myself and proceeded to watch.

See, the funny thing about many dog trainers is that they have an ego, and their ego often prevents them from accepting help from people who haven’t already demonstrated superior skill. Perhaps not a bad policy.

But whatever.

Anyway… the first fellow was standing and talking with me, and out of the corner of my eye I was watching the second fellow work with the dog.

They’d taught the dog to hold a “down-stay.” But the problem was, they hadn’t successfully taught the dog what “come” means, and that it’s okay to get up from the “down-stay” when the handler calls you to come.

The problem was, the second fellow was calling the dog to come, and while he was doing it, he was inadvertently bending forward and clapping his hands. And then he’d move a little closer to the dog—all the while bending forward.

The dog didn’t move.

“Come, Enzo. Come, Enzo. Come on, come on…”

The dog still didn’t move.

So, I asked the first fellow if it would be alright if I gave his assistant a tip that I knew would help to communicate with the dog that it was alright to get up and come to the handler.

I told him—the same thing I’d written about in my book (which you can read about at: http://www.dogprobl ems.com/newvideos.htm ) -- that when the dog doesn’t understand this command, you need to be using your body language to LEAN BACK… and even walk backwards, away from the dog. This body language will more easily communicate to the dog what you want him to do. (Setting him up for success).

But the trainer was stubborn and wanted to do it his way.

“Pshah… I know what I’m doing. I’m a professional,” he said as he waved his hand in my face.

I stood there and grinned, knowing exactly what would continue to happen.

“Come, Enzo. Come, Enzo. Come on, come on…” he continued.

The dog still didn’t move.

Finally, in frustration… he looked in my direction, then back at the dog—and did exactly as I told him to do—leaned backwards, started walking backwards away from the dog—and called his name.

Enzo immediately understood and happily galloped over to the handler.

So, the next time somebody tries to tell you that there aren’t any “Secrets” … just watch what they’re doing and if they’re stubborn--- just grin and DON’T TELL THEM ABOUT MY BOOK, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!”

Because even many so-called “professional dog trainers” don’t know everything.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

How to Begin a Dog Training Career

Author: Katie Brandt

Do you love dogs? Do you find yourself automatically trying to train each dog you come across? Would you like a fun, satisfying career that revolves around working with dogs? Then starting a dog training career could be the best career option for you. As a dog trainer you will be able to work one-on-one with loveable dogs and help them to learn the proper behaviors.

Having a successful dog training career is dependent upon the time and effort you place into the venture. The odds of having a productive dog training career are low if you decide to just read a book or two on the subject and set up shop. This type of surface level preparation for your dog training career may leave you ill equipped to deal with the business aspects and typical obstacles.

If you do garner any clients they may not be satisfied with your services and your reputation goes down the tubes. Remember if you embark on a dog training career that you need to establish a good, respectable reputation from the beginning. This is especially true if you wish to expand your dog training career from the average household to dog shows. The competitive dog world can be a small, close knit group that watches the performance of dog trainers closely.

As you can see, starting a dog training career is a serious choice that needs to be investigated thoroughly before you begin. Let's say that you have decided you will put in the time and effort necessary for a successful dog training career because you love dogs, want to work with them everyday, and out committed to being a knowledgeable, skillful dog trainer. The next big question is how to do you start your dog training career? A dog training career can begin in a number of ways. You can take home correspondence courses that range in complexity and time commitment. You can contact local breeders and dog trainers in your area and become a mentor or take lessons from them directly. You can also begin a dog training career by finding any dog training companies or stores such as PETCO to get you started.

The method you should use to begin your dog training career depends on the type of dog trainer you wish to be and your time commitment level. Can you work only part time and want to lead basic dog training classes at your recreation center? Do you want your dog training career to become a full time job where you train dogs for dog competitions such as Westminster? You need to determine your interest level to begin.

Maybe you are not sure yet how much time you want to spend on your dog training career. If this is the case, hop on over to places such as PETCO and inquire about their programs to become a dog trainer. They can answer your individual questions and help you to decide if a dog training career is right for you. You can also consult many book, e-books, magazines, and websites on the subject. You will often find that others have the very same questions and concerns.

You can also speak with dog trainers and dog groomers in your area that have experience in this field. They can help you determine the level of commitment you want to bring to your dog training career. They can point out the pros and cons of a dog training career that might not be highlighted in dog training career books.

What do you typically learn during your dog training career? There are a whole slew of items you need to understand including: establishing effective communication with your dog and basic to advanced tricks and commands. You will learn the best way to teach your dog these tricks. You also need to understand the mind of your dog and learn about dog temperament and the unique needs of each dog.

As with any career you will need to understand the background and history of not only your dog, but every dog as well. You will definitely come across more than one dog breed to train during your dog training career so it is imperative that you comprehend the intricacies of each breed. For example, you need to be aware of the historical strengths of each breed such as the Bichon Frise breed can jump extremely high and used to be circus dogs.

In addition to dog history and the dynamics of each dog breed, it is vital that you have a good grip on proper dog nutrition. During your dog training career you want to produce dogs that are healthy, happy, and well behaved. Understanding their nutrition and exercise needs will help you to accomplish this. Dog hygiene and grooming are areas of study as well so you can present a pooch that has a shiny coat and sparkling teeth.

While working with dogs comprises the majority of your dog training career, you will also need to focus on the business aspect. Your dog training career will become a business. Therefore, it is a necessity to understand how to operate your business regarding fees, overhead, and other financial and time considerations.

Having a thriving, rewarding dog training career might be just what you need in your life. If you love dogs and want to work with them on a daily basis then consider starting a dog training career.

About the author: Katie, a lifelong dog lover, owns http://www.dog-breeds-infosite.com which is the ultimate dog lover's resource. Research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog supplies, dog health, dog school, dog grooming, dog laws, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

Three Questions On Selecting A Dog Training Collar And Dog Behavior

Author: Adam Katz

Judy wrote to me with the following question:

""Hi, Adam! I enjoyed your website, but still need help choosing the right collar for my hard headed Jack Russell. She does go swimming to chase and catch my ducks in our pond, she chases cars, and she sometimes sneaks up behind visitors and bites them on the leg. She does not listen at all when she is so intensely concentrating on doing what she is not supposed to do...ignores us completely. Other than being so aggravating 1/4 of the time, she is a good little dog. But, when she is bad...she is BAD!

What collar would be best for such a small dog...she is not a fat Jack Russell...she runs to much for that. She is probably around 12 - 15 pounds, but I am just guessing. I want a collar that goes at least 1/2 mile. We live out in the country and she runs around our 10 acres.

Thanks so much, - Judy""

Dear Judy,

When choosing a training collar, the pinch collar is the best choice. It communicates with the dog in it's natural language, using the ""teeth"" of the collar similar to how an Alpha dog would correct a subordinate or a mother dog correct her puppies. The small size would probably work best for your Jack Russell terrier.

By not listening to you, she is showing her disrespect of your Alpha position in the family ""pack."" When you get the pinch collar, you must keep it and a leash on her all the time when supervision is available so you can correct any behaviors you don't want. A good place to start learning about how to train yourself on how to train your dog is my book and videos.

By keeping up a regimen of tough love and obedience, you can correct her negative behaviors and don't forget to praise her whenever she does something right. Mental stimulation is as important as physical and she will be glad to be working for you in obedience.

Jason wrote to me with a similar question about training collars:

""Hello Adam- I have recently purchased the full package of your book and DVD's that you offer which I have found to be very useful. I have two questions that I hope you may be able to answer:

1) How old must a dog be before training with the pinch collar?

I have a 4 month old chocolate lab that is very intelligent. Prior to your instructions, I was already able to teach her to shake, sit, and roll-over all with food as the reward.

However, down is a different story-she only goes down when I point all the way to the ground-finger pointing and touching the floor-since having food in my hand when the training began she only responds to my hand as a signal and not the word. This is at best inconsistent and a bit frustrating. I have begun the down-stay but the spike collar I have is only using 3 rings and does not seem very efficient. I feel compelled to break this bad habit which I have helped create, and look for your suggestions on this topic.

2) How do I use a ball drive (which is extremely strong in my lab) to make my dog not only retrieve (which she does) but catch a Frisbee in the air?

I have already started bouncing balls of the wall and she is getting better at catching the ball on the run, but I don’t know how this can evolve into a Frisbee catch and was a bit shocked not finding this in your book.

Thank you for anything you can do or suggest for me to do,

-- Jason""

Dear Jason,

To be at it's best efficiency, the pinch collar should have at least 5 links with pronged tips. You might want to find the next size down for your dog and remove links until you have the proper fit. Remember that the pinch collar is recommended for the dog usually when she gets her adult teeth (usually around 4 to 4.5 months). If you do need to use it before then, be gentle with your corrections, as training at this age is usually done through positive reinforcement, motivation, and light corrections (vocal, not giving a treat, etc).

Make sure she knows the command ""Down"" as well as the hand signal. If you have to start from square one in teaching it to her, do it. Praise her when she does anything right and let her know when she needs to give you a little more effort.

Instead of using a ball for teaching her how to catch a Frisbee, use a Frisbee; the two toys are very different in dimension. Make sure she's excited about the Frisbee and gently throw it to her from a few feet away, aiming for her chest, and tell her ""Catch!"" If she even attempts, praise her. Keep trying and use the word ""Catch"" whenever you throw it and as she learns to catch it, throw it from farther away and have her run short distances. However, be careful of how hard you exercise her, as her joints are still growing. At a future point, you will know when you can stop using the word ""Catch"" and simply ask her if she wants to play Frisbee.

Whereas Marie wanted to know how to incorporate the use of the training collar into fixing her dog's problem of ankle biting:

""Dear Adam: I have a five month-old Maltese and I'm having a problem with him nipping at my ankles and pulling on my pant legs. Also could I use a pinch collar on him? He only weighs 4lbs. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Regards, Marie""

Dear Marie,

By biting your ankles and pulling your pant legs, he is asking for attention. I find it hard to think that he is trying to dominate you at this age, so the behavior is probably more related to attention. You need to eliminate this behavior verbal correction IN CONJUNCTION WITH grabbing the scruff of his neck and giving a firm pull.

If it's easier, use a prong collar on because the collar only pinches the skin instead of constricting against the neck. While they are very hard to find in conventional pet stores, they are available online and can be found by typing ""micro prong collar"" into a search engine. It will help you communicate with your dog in a way he understands. However, it's unlikely.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Do You Want to Start Your Own Pet Sitting and/or Dog Walking Business?

Author: Stacy Hansen

Are you thinking of starting your own pet sitting or dog walking business?

Here is a great starting point:

Step by step instructions to getting set up for success!

Decide what sort of services you would like to offer. Many will start out offering pet sitting and dog walking then will branch out as suggestions from current clients roll in. Once you are secure with the pet sitting and dog walking end of it, start branching.

If you have a lot of competition in your area, offer something to set yourself apart from others. One thing I offered in my business was coming home service. I would charge a small fee to run to the grocery store and pick up some milk, bread and any other fresh item for my client so they do not need to bother with that. I did that because I know how much I hate coming home and having to stop at the supermarket.

Once you know what you want to offer, it is time to set up the business.

First, you need to set up a business name before you can get a license or go any further. Your name should be catchy. You want your potential clients to look over all the other ""common"" and ""cutesy"" names and go straight to yours. The trick to being at the top of the list is to start your name with the letter ""A"". Having a name that ties you to the community works best, in my opinion. For example, if you live in Westown, you can call your business, ""A+ Westtown Pet Care"". Just make sure no one else took that name first. Try to get creative as well. There are tons of Pampered Pets and such. They have been played out enough. Move on to something else.

Now that you have a name, you can get licensed. Here is a link to the SBA, to see if you need a business license in your state. Just find your state and click on it. Many will just need to register with the state and will not need a license, but it varies....http://www.sba.gov/hotlist/license.html. After you check with your state, try your local, township office. Sometimes, they want to know about your business as well and you may need approval. Just make sure all ground is covered so you don't run into any surprises. I actually went to a township meeting this month and they discussed another individual wanting to start a business selling cars on Ebay. He said the cars would be in a garage and never seen by neighbors, but he still needed to get approval. This surprised me. I never thought about township approval.

Once you are licensed, it is time to set up the paperwork part of your business. You will need a service contract for your clients to sign. You will need a report card to record what you did during visits. You will need a way to track medications you may need to administer, you will need instruction sheets on how to take care of the pets and the home. Those are the most important and ""necessary"" forms you will need. Sound overwhelming? Do you have the time and skill to develop these forms? Don't fret. Go to www.businessformsstore.com . All these forms are there for you as well as more you may need. The kick with these forms is that they come personalized. They will come with your business name and logo if you have one. They also have many flyers to choose from which will also have your business name and phone number on it. When you are ready to hire employees or independent contractors, you can get those forms there as well. When I develped my forms initially, it took me, literally, months of research and design and I am pretty creative. It was tough. That is why they are now offered to you all! Alright, now you have a business name, license and the paperwork. You are getting closer...

Next you need insurance. Insurance is a MUST. There are so many things you can run into and you should be protected. You may think you can get away with it, but, Murphy's Law, something will happen when you are not prepared. Insurance is pretty cheap, running less than $200/year. You can get insurance from your local carrier if offered or you can get from a specialist. Most pet sitters will go through organizations to get there insurance, like PSI or NAPPS. I used PetSit, LLC. It skipped over all the beaurocratic nonsense I didn't want. It is strickly insurance. They say it is a membership, but never got hassled with anything, so I liked it. PSI and others have a test to take and more, I think. I never signed up for any of those, so can't really tell you much. I do know most do, so maybe they offer some great things. I would definately check it out and decide on your own. Here are the websites: PSI: www.petsit.com NAPPS: http://www.petsitters.org/Insurance/insurance_index.htm PetSit, LLC: www.petsitllc.com . Napps and PSI use Insurers of the Carolinas. You can check them directly at http://www.petsitterinsurance.com/ .

Next is bonding. Now, bonding is not necessary if you are working alone. If you have employees, you would want it. Bonding is there to protect your company against employee theft. Some bonding companies, however, will include the owner as an employee and, therefore, you will be covered. Make sure you check on this. The way bonding works is if your client accuses you or an employee of theft, the police are involved. If you or an employee is convicted of the crime, the bond pays out and you then repay the bond. Some clients want you to be covered and people will get it as a marketing tool. It is up to you if you want to purchase it. Now, PetSit, LLC offers a special additional coverage which will cover theft and accidents. It is around $85/year. The special part of that is it is like bonding, only you don't have to pay it back and don't have to get convicted. Check out www.petsitllc.com for more information. Okay, you are bonded, licensed, insured and physically ready to start. Now you need to get clients...

Marketing is the trickiest, most frustrating and time-consuming part of this business. Once you get some clients, the ball will start rolling more by word-of-mouth, but for now, you need to advertise...

Flyers are the cheapest and are best for getting just your area. Go get your personal flyer at www.businessformsstore.com and start distributing. Now, you can't put them in people's mailboxes without going through the post office...it is illegal. But, you can put them on people's doors and cars. The best places I have found are the pet food stores...not only PetSmart or Petco but local smaller stores. Pet Stores also work good. Post office bulletin boards are great and so are supermarkets. Basically, anywhere you go which has a bulletin board, put your flyer there. The best would be a Vet offices. If they offer boarding, you may want to get on their good side so they will refer their clients to you especially when they are booked. Another good advertising technique is the community newspaper. It is cheap, about $10/week and everyone gets one for free. After that we go up in price. Getting in the yellow pages is expensive and you can only get in at the right time of the year when they are publishing their new book. Call for rates. You can do tons of internet advertising and tons for free... Go to http://www.businessformsstore.com/free_business_listings_for_anim al_care_professionals for a list of places to advertise for free. You can also advertise there for free if you have a website with a reciprocal link. Alright, now you are advertised and you should be getting that first call any day now...but what are you going to get asked and are you ready to answer questions?

They are going to first ask what your rates are. Do you know what you want to charge? Keep it simple. I see people charging flat rates to all these extras. Don't confuse your potential clients and don't make it seem more difficult. This will turn them away. Be straight to the point. This is what I did... I charged $1o for a 15 minute visit, $15 for a 30 minute visit and $20 for an hour. Now, keep in mind this was 5 years ago and gas certainly wasn't even close to this expensive. I did this to make things easy. If a client just has a cat, you want a simple, cheap alternative for them. If they have 5 cats, 4 dogs and 2 rabbits, you know it will take some time for you to clean litter, cages, feed, water and then give them attention, so you know the $10 and even $15 rate doesn't apply. If you are going to service a larger area, you may want to do a mileage surcharge, but that is up to you. Even though gas prices are up, your really are not spending too much more per day. Maybe a dollar or too. Work it out. You will see. If you want to offer extra services as optional to try to make more money, that would work just fine. For example, pooper scooper. You may want to charge $5 per day or per trip, it depends on how many and how big the dogs are. If you want to charge extra for watering their garden for them, you can do that. Have all you want to offer and rates written out and ready for their call.

They will ask you what is included in the pet sit. Make sure you have a list of that also. For example, you may offer free mail and newspaper pick up, free light alteration, free trash to curb, etc. Be prepared to talk about your services. You should also tell them what you will be doing with the pet, which is what they do everyday to keep the pet in it's same routine. This is the purpose of having a pet sitter over boarding. Home Business Forms ( www.businessformsstore.com ) has a great pet sitting package which includes all you will need. In this package is a telephone reservation form and pet and client instruction sheet. You will use these to document all they will be requesting.

They will ask you if you have insurance and bonding. They may ask some specific coverage questions. I have a Q&A on the yahoo group PetPro about this. Go to http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/PetPro/ to sign up and read about these coverage questions. This is also a good support group for those just starting out and those already pet sitting.

Lastly, hopefully, they will ask if you are available and will book you!

It may seem overwhelming reading this, but it will become second nature once you get started.

For more information on this business and other aspects of pet care, go to www.businessformsstore.com . This site covers areas such as pet sitting, dog walking, boarding/kennelling, in-home boarding, aquarium maintanence, pet taxi, house sitting and so much more. You can also email Stacy at info@businessformsstore.com with any questions.

Good luck with your business endeavors!

About the author: Stacy Hansen Owner of Home Business Forms www.businessformsstore.com info@businessformsstore.com

Dog Ticks - How To Spot Them and What To Do

Author: Rose Smith

Ticks on a dog (or any animal or human) can be a serious problem. These wingless parasites are not insects, but are actually related to mites and spiders. Many people are suprised to learn that there are over 850 tick species, about 100 of which are capable of transmitting potentially serious diseases.

The tick's sole mission is to wait for some human or animal to brush against them so they have a wonderful new host to feed from. Because ticks can feed on many hosts, they can easily spread diseases between animals and humans. This is why it is very important for you to check your dog periodically, especially during the summer months, for any ticks that have decided to hitch a ride with your favorite canine.

Ticks Can Cause Lyme Disease

One tick in particular that you should watch out for is the Deer Tick. This tick is about the size of a pinhead in its nymphal stage and adult deer ticks are smaller than most normal ticks. Deer ticks are known to spread Lyme disease, a multi-system bacterial infection, which often has to be treated with antibiotics. Unfortunately, some animals won't show any symptoms of Lyme Disease although they may be infected and this can make it difficult to diagnose and treat. An additional problem is that the body does not develop an immunity to this disease, so you and your pet can be reinfected by new tick bites.

Dog Tick Removal

You must be very careful when trying to remove a tick. Do not use lighters, alcohol or any of those other ""home-remedy"" myths you hear about. Because ticks have a mouth that contain reverse harpoon-like barbs, there is really only one safe way to do this.

1. Use tweezers to grab the tick as close to the skin (and its mouth parts) as possible.

2. Pull straight up removing the tick. Do not burn or prick the tick, as it might release infected fluids. Do not twist the tweezers.

3. If a the small mouth piece remains in the skin leave it alone. It will work its way out of the skin as old skin cells slough off. If you try to pry the small mouth piece out with a needle, you may inadverdentley push it farther in, possibly causing more problems.

4. Put the tick in a small jar and label it with the person's or animal's name, address and date.

5. Wash your hands and the tweezers, then disinfect the bite area.

6. If possible, have the tick identified and tested by the local health department or your veternarian (in case there are further complications).

About the author: Rose Smith is the author and owner of Caring For Canines, a web site that provides information on natural dog health care. To learn more about dog skin problems, care and grooming, please visit us at: http://www.caringforcanines.com/grooming-aids.shtml

Here's What To Do If Your Dog Displays Submissive Urination

Author: Adam Katz

Bhabani wrote to me with her question about her dog and submissive urination:

She wrote: ""I have a mixed-breed puppy (German shepherd/border collie mix) which is 4 months old. It's very friendly with people but when it approaches people, it urinates all-over. The same happens when I come home in the evening. It becomes very excited and urinates on the carpet. Is that a submissive behavior? How can I solve this problem?

-Bhabani

Dear Bhabani,

Just for peace of mind, have him checked by your veterinarian to make sure the problem is strictly behavioral and isn't medically related. Once you have the results from the tests, you can start from there.

If your dog is otherwise house-trained, it is more likely a submissive behavior. You can help reduce this behavior by increasing your dog's confidence level.

Take the dog out more and socialize, socialize, socialize with other humans.

Agility training is also a great start.

Don't create as much excitement around the dog when he's known to exhibit the behavior. When you come home, ignore him until he's calm enough to greet. Is he kept in a crate while you're gone? This can help you by allowing you to come home and immediately take the dog outside to potty. By staying in the crate, he will be more at loathe to potty in it because dogs have an inhibition to using the same area as a toilet and a den.

The same goes with guests. If a guest comes over, they should ignore the dog and not fuss until he calms down. Do not correct him for urinating. Correcting submissive urination will only make the behavior worse.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Her Dog Defecates In The Crate

Author: Adam Katz

A Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owner wrote to me with the following question:

""Dear Adam:

We recently got a four month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.

We can't seem to housebreak him. I've tried what your book and tape said to do. He goes ""#2"" in his crate. I have been doing what you suggested, but would like some advice on the crate issue. Thank you.

-Brenda

Dear Brenda:

The best solution to this problem is to build an outdoor kennel run on grass or pea gravel so that the dog can get reconditioned to eliminate on this flooring substance and not in the crate.

Otherwise, when you take him outside to go to the bathroom, you might have to wait longer to get a bowel movement. If the dog is on a schedule, make sure you get him outside after he is finished eating. If standing around waiting for him to go isn't getting you anywhere, you might try some light play or take a walk around the yard. Exercise has the effect of bowel stimulation.

When he defecates, make sure to praise him well. You might have to spend 10-15 minutes outside encouraging him to potty, but when he does, it is worth it. If you have an outdoor kennel run or even a securely fenced yard, give him less time in the crate and have him either be under your supervision in the house or out in the kennel. If you have not done this already, you should also clean the crate with an enzyme cleaner such as Nature's Miracle to eliminate all traces of the feces.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Her German Shepherd Dog Has Become "Collar-Smart"

Author: Adam Katz

Will wrote to me about his dog, Lexi, and said:

""Hello Adam. I have purchased your book and DVD set, and my 14 month-old shepherd Lexi and I have made great strides.

We started agility training at six months and thanks to the long line training, she no longer takes 1 or 2 obstacles and takes off running. We also are involved in training for show obedience.

Now here's my question that I need serious help with. I use the pinch collar during training as I should and she responds incredibly. The problem I have is when we are in the ring and she's wearing AKC standard collar, it's a whole different story, like we've never trained. She won't heel the way she does on collar (she lags behind) and on the handler recall she will usually blow past me. And obviously there are no corrections allowed at any AKC event. She's obviously collar smart, so please Adam, I need your wisdom.

Thank you in advance. -- Will and Lexi.""

Dear Will,

You say you that you are using the pinch collar during training? Are you training only during specific times of the day or is the collar on her all the time? Keeping the collar on all day (when you can supervise her) will allow you to correct her whenever she does anything wrong, not just when she's in ""training"" mode.

Do exercises during the day that aren't formal show obedience, but that make her obey, anyway. Work her in different environments; the driveway, the park, kitchen, neighbor's yard, etc.... So that she learns how to listen to you in any situation with multiple distractions.

Stage an event so it has the feel of an AKC show. Have friends and family come and even ""judge"" the show. Perhaps have a few other well-behaved dogs around doing their exercises. Put her show collar on as well as the pinch collar. Put her through her paces and the moment she messes up, give her a correction: this isn't an AKC event, this is your event and you say what is and isn't allowed.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Dog Training: How To Understand Your Dog's Mood

Author: Richard Cussons

Make you puppy training easier and more fun by understanding that your puppy is trying to communicate with you in other ways than barking or wagging his tail. Remember, your puppy also communicates with his ears, tail, paws, mouth and more and your puppy training and everyday life with your dog will be much more fun.

Here is a short guide to some basic dog body language and what it means:

Dominant - You'll find that a dominant dog has its ears straight up or forward, its mouth slightly opened or closed, its eyes open wide or staring, its body standing stiff and tall with hackles possibly raised, and its tail out from the body stiffened or fluffed. A low and assertive bark can often be expected.

Friendly - A friendly dog has perked up ears, open and alert eyes, a relaxed mouth, a tail or whole rear end wagging, and possibly whimpering, yapping or giving short barks.

Playful - A bow position with wagging tail means “let's play.”

Submissive - A dog with its ears tightly back, eyes closed and paw raised is showing extreme submission. The dog isn't happy but shows it will not attack.

Aggressive - An aggressive dog has its ears flattened back against its head, its eyes narrowed or challenging, body tense, mouth open to show teeth and tail held out from the body and fluffed up if possible. Snarls or growls are typical.

Worried - Sharp barks combined with growling, ears flattened and neck hairs raised means ""I'm worried"" or ""something is wrong.""

Fear - A dog shows fear with a lowered stance, tail down or tucked underneath, an arched back, looking or turning head whilst showing the whites of their whites of eyes and dilated pupils. Dogs often bark out of fear, especially if they are cornered, fenced in, or on a leash.

Stressed - A stressed dog will often have ears back and down, a wide open mouth, lips drawn back with rapid respiration. Also shoulders lowered, hunched forward, tail tucked, tension in haunches and will probably be trembling.

Now that you understand more about what your puppy is trying to say to you about how he feels or the mood he is in try to accommodate this in your puppy training and everyday life.

In a puppy training session your dog should be showing that he is in a friendly or playful mood. If he shows he is dominant then you know that he may not be taking you seriously or could be being stubborn and you probably need to be more assertive.

Some submissive behaviour is not a bad thing as it means that that he understands that you are in charge.

If your puppy becomes stressed, fearful, worried or even aggressive, you must stop your training and reassure your dog immediately. If you have been training for more than 15 minutes stop and take a break. When you come back takes things more slowly or approach things in a different way.

Use your knowledge in every day life too. Observe your puppy in different situations and you will quickly discover what he likes and dislikes or how he is feeling. You can then take steps to give him more of what he enjoys and more support, confidence and training in situations he finds more difficult.

About the author:

Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. You can find out more about

puppy training and care at his site http://www.all-about-puppies.com.

Choosing A Good Hunting Dog

Author: Kirsten Hawkins

Dogs have been bred for the purposes of hunting with humans for centuries. Whether hunting for food or sport, various breeds of dog have been used to help flush the hunted animals out into the open, to retrieve downed animals (especially ducks, pheasant, and other birds), and to sniff out and track animals for the hunter. It is with these potential duties in mind that a hunting dog should be chosen.

When choosing a dog for hunting purposes you may want to evaluate your needs and base the choice on what you want the dog to do, how easily it can be trained, whether it is likely to be “spooked” by the report of a weapon being fired, and how good its nose is.

Hunting Breeds

There are several breeds of dog that have a natural aptitude for assisting in various aspects of hunting. Hounds, for example, make excellent trackers, especially bloodhounds. They have a very acute sense of smell, even for a dog, and have no problem following several scents at once. Retrievers are quite keen at, well, retrieving. And make excellent bird-dogs.

Hunting breeds are separated into four general groups. These are the general hunting dogs, gun dogs, retrievers, and bird dogs. Some specific dog breeds may fit into more than one category.

Retrievers

Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers are experts at finding and fetching fallen prey. They are especially useful on duck hunts because their oily coats help them move effortlessly through water to find and retrieve the fallen waterfowl.

Pointers and Setters

These dogs are useful in hunting because they let the hunter know when prey is nearby. They are most often used in bird hunts and are trained to freeze and point their bodies in the direction of the hunted bird (pointers) or hunker down low to the ground when they locate a bird (setters). Spaniels also make good pointers.

Hounds and Trackers

Bloodhounds and other dogs with heightened senses of smell are used to track all manner of animals. Whether it is their traditional use in the British fox hunt or their usefulness in tracking down deer, bears, and other such game for hunters in the US, they serve their purpose exceptionally well.

About the author: Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.