What You Should Know About Your Dog's Sleeping Habits

Author: Amy Howells

It’s important to understand your dog’s sleeping habits and how they influence its behavior, particularly when your dog gets disturbed.

You see, Dogs will usually sleep for around 13 hours every day. Although this can vary between different breeds, this still means your dog is going to be asleep for almost half it’s life!

Dream time.

Your dog will tend to circle before lying down to sleep

As he would do in the wild, where he would trample down vegetation to create a bed, typically in longer grass where his presence will be concealed.

Temperature also influences the way in which a dog sleeps.

If it’s cold, your dog will curl up in a ball to conserve body heat. (just as puppies do by sleeping together instead of stretching out).

It’s not unusual for an adult dog to lie on his side while he’s sleeping, and start moving his legs as if he were running.

The eyelids and whiskers may twitch too at this stage, which is usually a sign of what we humans call ‘deep sleep’.

Dogs generally spend most of their time sleeping lightly.

Sleeping habits.

Seeing as dogs are descended from opportunistic hunters, dogs instinctively wake when there is an increased amount of activity around them.

However, if a dog is deliberately woken, particularly if it is disturbed by a child, he may react aggressively and bite without warning.

The phrase ‘let sleeping dogs lie’ should give you a clue!

Also, your dog may be a little unwilling to settle down again if woken at an unusual hour.

This means it’s important to establish a set routine for a new dog from the outset. This includes things like exercising, feeding and sleeping times.

A new puppy is likely to be distressed on its first few nights in a new home, as this will be the first time that he will have been separated from its littermates.

Within a pack, there is no visible hierarchy in the order in which the dogs sleep, although they will instinctively sleep close to their fellow members. (Although the alpha dog will usually sleep apart).

If your new pup has been allowed to spend the night in the bedroom, it can become problematic to expect it to sleep elsewhere.

Its instincts suggest that it has been driven away from the pack.

By being firm right from the start and establishing that your dog sleeps on his own, you can ensure that he doesn’t experience this ‘rejection’ once he gets a little older.

Dogs can get restless during the night if they’re not exercised regularly. Although he may also nap continually if there isn’t much happening.

While you are out, your dog may find its way to your bed, just to be near your smell. An old item of clothing, which will carry your scent, will comfort your dog when you are not there.

Sleeping postures.

Puppies often appreciate contact with littermates when sleeping, just in the same way that many dogs prefer to lie against a wall or next to their owner’s feet. This probably gives them a sense of security.

About the author: Amy Howells is an expert dog trainer and author. Visit http://www.dog-owner.n et/e-course.htm to get an astonishing free e-course that reveals the short-cut secrets to training any dog in 21 days!

Hurricane Katrina: A Lesson in Emergency Preparedness for You and Your Dog

Author: Kimberly Zlatin

Heart wrenching images of Hurricane Katrina’s four-legged victims are too much for most of us to bear. Fortunately the majority of people around the country have their loving companions next to them while they are watching the devastating news of dogs left to fend for themselves and people making the choice of their pet or their own rescue. A disaster such as Hurricane Katrina is not a common occurrence, but it does bring up important questions about what you would do with your dog if an emergency did arise in your household and you were unable to return to your home. Some important facts to keep in mind:

• Is your dog microchipped? The majority of shelters have a scanning device that can read the microchip that is placed under your dog’s skin. The microchip carries important identifying information for your dog and can be provided at many shelters and vet’s offices for a nominal fee in a matter of seconds.

• Make sure your dog has a collar with updated identification tags. This is a simple way for people to contact you if your dog has been found.

• Find out where lost dogs are taken in your neighborhood. Some cities have a central location where dogs are placed for the first 24-48 hours before being relocated to area shelters. Save yourself time by doing a little research now!

• Have a sign in your window so emergency personnel know that there is a pet inside your home that needs to be rescued.

• Have a designated person(s) to check in on your pet in case of an emergency. Give them a list of reputable boarding facilities just in case they are not able to take your dog into their own home.

• Where are your local emergency vet clinics? You do not want to be scrambling for this information when your dog needs immediate care.

• Is your dog up to date on vaccinations? If your dog is placed in a shelter, boarding facility, or lost on the street you want to make sure that he is protected against diseases that he would not otherwise be exposed to in your home.

• Where can you go with your dog if you must leave your home unexpectedly? Keep a list of dog-friendly hotels so you know where you can go if you are unable to stay in your home.

• Bring familiar objects for your dog. If possible, grab a favorite toy or dog bed with familiar scents that can reduce anxiety in a stressful situation.

• Never underestimate the power of the internet! Email yourself or a friend a picture of your dog so you have a picture available to post in case of separation. You can send the picture to local shelters and websites such as Craigslist.com or Petfinder.com.

A little advanced planning on your part could be the difference between a happy reunion or heartache for you and your dog. While we all pray that we will never need to use this information, having it on hand as a quick reference can bring some peace of mind in an emergency situation.

About the author: Kimberly Zlatin is a freelance copywriter and entrepreneur. She owns and runs BarkSlope.com, an online dog boutique. Kimberly can be contacted at kim@barkslope.com or 773-572-8222.

How To Choose The Perfect Dog Name For Your Puppy.

Author: Richard Cussons

So you've brought home your new puppy, it's time to name your new animal friend but you’re running short on ideas. Choosing a name for your dog can be hard if you aren't feeling very creative, so here we give you a head start with the basics and some great ideas to help you choose the perfect name for your puppy.

Three Basic Dog Name Guidelines

1. Pick a name your dog can easily recognize. Dogs usually respond better to one or two syllable names. If you do want to go for a dramatic and unusual long name, consider whether you can easily shorten it to something a bit simpler for your dog to understand.

2. Avoid dog names that sound like the standard commands of No, Stay, Sit, Come, Down or Fetch. For example ""Joe"" is probably too close to ""No"". It can be difficult for dogs to tell the difference between similar sounding words.

3. Choose a name that's both easy to call out and one that you are happy calling out. Remember, you will be calling your dog's name out in public places at times and shouting out “Parsnip“ in the local park, may leave you feeling a little embarrassed! You also want a name that will work well when you are straining your voice to call your pet as he disappears into the sunset chasing after a rabbit!

Looking For Dog Name Inspiration

Start with the obvious. Take a long hard look at your new little friend he may be telling you his name without you knowing. Look at his appearance, behavior, personality, and disposition. Names like Spot or Red may come to mind. How about Bandit for a dog who steals things or Rebel for a stubborn dog?

Then look elsewhere for inspiration. You can name your dog after another famous dog, for example Pluto, Pongo, Lassie or Digby. What about your favourite sports, movie, music or comic strip star?

How about choosing a dog name after a member of your family or friend of a figure from history like Napoleon, Alexander the Great or Rasputin? Take a look at your environment or think about your favourite place they will give you more ideas.

Remember, the dog name you choose for your puppy says as much about you as it does about your pet. It shows how you view your dog and your relationship with him. But other people may judge your dog’s character by reference to its name and might therefore react negatively or fearfully to a ‘dominating’ name when meeting it. It is a good idea to use a dog name that conveys the image you want your pet to have.

Also, pick a name that will grow with the pet. For example ""Tiny"" may be less appropriate for a full-grown dog.

Whichever method you choose, have a good time doing it and choose a name that you will want to keep.

Teaching Your Puppy Its Name

Pick a dog name that pleases you and stick to it. It can be confusing for your puppy if you keep changing your mind. Your dog will learn his or her new name quickly if you use it often. When you call your pet, use his name. Do not say ""here puppy"". Calling your pet by his name will help him to become familiar with it and with your voice as well.

If choosing a long name keep in mind the shortened version. A long name will inevitably be shortened, but it may ruin the effect that you were originally looking for.

Above all have fun and choose a name you really like. Your puppy will undoubtedly become your best friend and only you can find just the right name.

About the author: Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. Discover more about dog names, puppy care and traning at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/dog_names.html.

Dog Breeds: How To Choose The Perfect Dog Breed For You!

Author: Richard Cussons

If choosing dog is such a straight forward process, and it is, how come so many puppies find their way into adoption centres every year? Well one reason is that people choose the wrong dog breed.

Don’t let your puppy become a statistic. Make it your goal to choose a puppy suited to your family and circumstances. Think about your previous experience of owning a dog and the amount of time you have for training, grooming and exercising. Look at your health including possible allergies, your financial resources and the amount of space in your house and yard. Most of all work out how much time you have for a dog.

Of all the different factors in choosing a the right dog breed, among the most important is the relationship you want with your dog. Some breeds by nature are rather aloof and elegant, others are independent and energetic while others are dependent or submissive. If you want to do specialized training, consider breeds known for courage and trainability. If you want an affectionate pet, choose a breed that typically likes to be close to its people.

To ensure that your puppy fits in with your lifestyle begin by asking yourself these questions:

a) How much time can I spend with my dog, a social creature who craves companionship? - If your time is limited don’t get a breed which can become dependent on their owners.

b) How much exercise can I give my dog? - If you hate exercise, buy a small dog happy with a short walk. If you like to walk the mountains all day long get a dog breed which likes a lot of exercise.

c) How much grooming can I do? - If you hate grooming, buy a short-haired dog.

d) How much training can I give? - If you have limited time, choose a breed known for ease of training.

e) How much room do I have? - If you live in a small apartment don’t get a large dog!

f) What characteristics do I want in my dog? - Think of words like independent, energetic, submissive, affectionate, protective, quiet, funny or sociable. Try to match them to the characteristics of your family members. Your dog will fit in much better if you do.

Finding The Right Dog Breed

Once you have answered these questions it is time to go out and find the right dog breed for you. The internet is a great place to start. Just go to your favourite search engine and type in something like “dog breed information” or “dog breeds” and you will find some excellent sites giving detailed information about each breed.

Note the characteristics of the different breeds. What is best for your situation: large or small, male or female, purebred or mix? Short coat or shaggy coat? A dog needing lots or little exercise? A lot or little daily grooming? Think through your choices in detail and compare this information to your requirements and make a short list.

Next ask people you trust about the dog breeds you are interested in. Ask friends, family members and co-workers for suggestions of dog breeds they think would be good for you and your family. Ask them to be honest about the good points and bad points of the breeds they suggest. Visit dog training schools and breeders and ask about the dogs your think may be suitable. Follow up on and meet the breeds you feel are a good match.

Finally make every effort when choosing a puppy to make your final choice of a dog breed a family decision. Your dog will be part of the family, and each member needs to feel a sense of ownership for the dog and a willingness to help in its care.

So there you have it a short guide to choosing a puppy that will fit into your family perfectly and bring years of fun and happiness.

About the author: Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. You can find out more about dog breeds, training and care at http://www.all-about-puppies.com/.

Beware The Dog Days Of Summer!

Author: Angie Noack

Heat is one of the worst enemies that roses face, and the months of July and August can be scorchers. Not only are your roses at risk of heat damage, but the accompanying humidity breeds insects and fungal diseases.

Here's a look at what we can do to keep our roses beautiful and healthy until the cooling days of autumn arrive.

Make sure that your roses have all the water that they need. Remember to water from the roots and not from the top to avoid fungus development and to make sure that your bushes can drink their full.

Water daily when the temperature is at or above 90F. Pot-grown roses may need to be watered twice per day. Avoid watering during the hottest times of day to guard against excessive evaporation.

Spray fungicide on a weekly basis to keep these humidity-born diseases at bay, and cut back canes and foliage which show any signs of infection.

Apply light feedings of fertilizer at least three times per week. Don't over-fertilize as this will cause burning.

Apply 2 to 3 cups of organics weekly, and stop applying your organics during the last week of August.

July and August are prime times for spider mites who thrive in the heat and humidity. Spritz your foliage and buds with water on a regular basis to show these pests that they are not welcome on your roses.

Now is not the time to fall behind on your deadheading chores. Your canes need all of their strength to support new growth, so pay careful attention.

Start cutting back your roses in the latter part of August so they will be ready to produce those huge autumn blooms which are right around the corner.

Trim the stems and branches that are trying to grow toward the center of the bush. This not only increases air circulation, but it removes prime breeding grounds for spider mites and helps to reduce the appearance of fungus infections that thrive in hot, moist areas within your bushes.

If you are planning to exhibit your roses in any of the fall shows, you'll need to carefully time your cane pruning activities in order to allow enough time for recycling to occur.

Here is a chart of the most common recycling times for selected species. Soil condition, temperature, bush health and other planting and growing conditions may cause these times to vary widely, so use this chart only as a guideline.

Slow recycling roses, such as ""Uncle Joe"", ""New Zealand"" and ""Touch of Class"" require 50 to 60 days to recycle.

Medium slow roses, including ""Crystalline"", ""Elizabeth Taylor"", ""Peace"", and ""Olympiad"" will require 50 to 54 days.

Your average varieties, which include ""Color Magic"", ""Double Delight"", ""Gold Medal"", ""Nicole"", and ""French Lace"" only require 45 to 49 days.

Fast varieties, like ""Altissimo"", ""First Prize"", and ""Fragrant Cloud"", will need 40 to 44 days.

""Dainty Bess"", ""Playboy"", ""Playgirl"", and the other very fast varieties will recycle in just 35 to 39 days.

About the author: Angie Noack is a home and garden strategist with a sharp edge for technology. With her unique ability to combine these two skills, she's able to help gardeners save time and increase productivity. You can find her online at http://www.dairyrose.com .

Can't Get Your Dog To Get Up And Come To You? Read This...

Author: Adam Katz

I was walking outside to open the front gate in front of my complex and saw two guys training a beautiful large German Shepherd dog, in front of my neighbor’s house.

They were both professional dog trainers that my neighbor had apparently hired to come by and train his dog when he’s at work.

I introduced myself and proceeded to watch.

See, the funny thing about many dog trainers is that they have an ego, and their ego often prevents them from accepting help from people who haven’t already demonstrated superior skill. Perhaps not a bad policy.

But whatever.

Anyway… the first fellow was standing and talking with me, and out of the corner of my eye I was watching the second fellow work with the dog.

They’d taught the dog to hold a “down-stay.” But the problem was, they hadn’t successfully taught the dog what “come” means, and that it’s okay to get up from the “down-stay” when the handler calls you to come.

The problem was, the second fellow was calling the dog to come, and while he was doing it, he was inadvertently bending forward and clapping his hands. And then he’d move a little closer to the dog—all the while bending forward.

The dog didn’t move.

“Come, Enzo. Come, Enzo. Come on, come on…”

The dog still didn’t move.

So, I asked the first fellow if it would be alright if I gave his assistant a tip that I knew would help to communicate with the dog that it was alright to get up and come to the handler.

I told him—the same thing I’d written about in my book (which you can read about at: http://www.dogprobl ems.com/newvideos.htm ) -- that when the dog doesn’t understand this command, you need to be using your body language to LEAN BACK… and even walk backwards, away from the dog. This body language will more easily communicate to the dog what you want him to do. (Setting him up for success).

But the trainer was stubborn and wanted to do it his way.

“Pshah… I know what I’m doing. I’m a professional,” he said as he waved his hand in my face.

I stood there and grinned, knowing exactly what would continue to happen.

“Come, Enzo. Come, Enzo. Come on, come on…” he continued.

The dog still didn’t move.

Finally, in frustration… he looked in my direction, then back at the dog—and did exactly as I told him to do—leaned backwards, started walking backwards away from the dog—and called his name.

Enzo immediately understood and happily galloped over to the handler.

So, the next time somebody tries to tell you that there aren’t any “Secrets” … just watch what they’re doing and if they’re stubborn--- just grin and DON’T TELL THEM ABOUT MY BOOK, “Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!”

Because even many so-called “professional dog trainers” don’t know everything.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

How to Begin a Dog Training Career

Author: Katie Brandt

Do you love dogs? Do you find yourself automatically trying to train each dog you come across? Would you like a fun, satisfying career that revolves around working with dogs? Then starting a dog training career could be the best career option for you. As a dog trainer you will be able to work one-on-one with loveable dogs and help them to learn the proper behaviors.

Having a successful dog training career is dependent upon the time and effort you place into the venture. The odds of having a productive dog training career are low if you decide to just read a book or two on the subject and set up shop. This type of surface level preparation for your dog training career may leave you ill equipped to deal with the business aspects and typical obstacles.

If you do garner any clients they may not be satisfied with your services and your reputation goes down the tubes. Remember if you embark on a dog training career that you need to establish a good, respectable reputation from the beginning. This is especially true if you wish to expand your dog training career from the average household to dog shows. The competitive dog world can be a small, close knit group that watches the performance of dog trainers closely.

As you can see, starting a dog training career is a serious choice that needs to be investigated thoroughly before you begin. Let's say that you have decided you will put in the time and effort necessary for a successful dog training career because you love dogs, want to work with them everyday, and out committed to being a knowledgeable, skillful dog trainer. The next big question is how to do you start your dog training career? A dog training career can begin in a number of ways. You can take home correspondence courses that range in complexity and time commitment. You can contact local breeders and dog trainers in your area and become a mentor or take lessons from them directly. You can also begin a dog training career by finding any dog training companies or stores such as PETCO to get you started.

The method you should use to begin your dog training career depends on the type of dog trainer you wish to be and your time commitment level. Can you work only part time and want to lead basic dog training classes at your recreation center? Do you want your dog training career to become a full time job where you train dogs for dog competitions such as Westminster? You need to determine your interest level to begin.

Maybe you are not sure yet how much time you want to spend on your dog training career. If this is the case, hop on over to places such as PETCO and inquire about their programs to become a dog trainer. They can answer your individual questions and help you to decide if a dog training career is right for you. You can also consult many book, e-books, magazines, and websites on the subject. You will often find that others have the very same questions and concerns.

You can also speak with dog trainers and dog groomers in your area that have experience in this field. They can help you determine the level of commitment you want to bring to your dog training career. They can point out the pros and cons of a dog training career that might not be highlighted in dog training career books.

What do you typically learn during your dog training career? There are a whole slew of items you need to understand including: establishing effective communication with your dog and basic to advanced tricks and commands. You will learn the best way to teach your dog these tricks. You also need to understand the mind of your dog and learn about dog temperament and the unique needs of each dog.

As with any career you will need to understand the background and history of not only your dog, but every dog as well. You will definitely come across more than one dog breed to train during your dog training career so it is imperative that you comprehend the intricacies of each breed. For example, you need to be aware of the historical strengths of each breed such as the Bichon Frise breed can jump extremely high and used to be circus dogs.

In addition to dog history and the dynamics of each dog breed, it is vital that you have a good grip on proper dog nutrition. During your dog training career you want to produce dogs that are healthy, happy, and well behaved. Understanding their nutrition and exercise needs will help you to accomplish this. Dog hygiene and grooming are areas of study as well so you can present a pooch that has a shiny coat and sparkling teeth.

While working with dogs comprises the majority of your dog training career, you will also need to focus on the business aspect. Your dog training career will become a business. Therefore, it is a necessity to understand how to operate your business regarding fees, overhead, and other financial and time considerations.

Having a thriving, rewarding dog training career might be just what you need in your life. If you love dogs and want to work with them on a daily basis then consider starting a dog training career.

About the author: Katie, a lifelong dog lover, owns http://www.dog-breeds-infosite.com which is the ultimate dog lover's resource. Research dog breeds & get free tips on dog training, dog supplies, dog health, dog school, dog grooming, dog laws, dog products & how to find dog sitters & dog walkers.

Three Questions On Selecting A Dog Training Collar And Dog Behavior

Author: Adam Katz

Judy wrote to me with the following question:

""Hi, Adam! I enjoyed your website, but still need help choosing the right collar for my hard headed Jack Russell. She does go swimming to chase and catch my ducks in our pond, she chases cars, and she sometimes sneaks up behind visitors and bites them on the leg. She does not listen at all when she is so intensely concentrating on doing what she is not supposed to do...ignores us completely. Other than being so aggravating 1/4 of the time, she is a good little dog. But, when she is bad...she is BAD!

What collar would be best for such a small dog...she is not a fat Jack Russell...she runs to much for that. She is probably around 12 - 15 pounds, but I am just guessing. I want a collar that goes at least 1/2 mile. We live out in the country and she runs around our 10 acres.

Thanks so much, - Judy""

Dear Judy,

When choosing a training collar, the pinch collar is the best choice. It communicates with the dog in it's natural language, using the ""teeth"" of the collar similar to how an Alpha dog would correct a subordinate or a mother dog correct her puppies. The small size would probably work best for your Jack Russell terrier.

By not listening to you, she is showing her disrespect of your Alpha position in the family ""pack."" When you get the pinch collar, you must keep it and a leash on her all the time when supervision is available so you can correct any behaviors you don't want. A good place to start learning about how to train yourself on how to train your dog is my book and videos.

By keeping up a regimen of tough love and obedience, you can correct her negative behaviors and don't forget to praise her whenever she does something right. Mental stimulation is as important as physical and she will be glad to be working for you in obedience.

Jason wrote to me with a similar question about training collars:

""Hello Adam- I have recently purchased the full package of your book and DVD's that you offer which I have found to be very useful. I have two questions that I hope you may be able to answer:

1) How old must a dog be before training with the pinch collar?

I have a 4 month old chocolate lab that is very intelligent. Prior to your instructions, I was already able to teach her to shake, sit, and roll-over all with food as the reward.

However, down is a different story-she only goes down when I point all the way to the ground-finger pointing and touching the floor-since having food in my hand when the training began she only responds to my hand as a signal and not the word. This is at best inconsistent and a bit frustrating. I have begun the down-stay but the spike collar I have is only using 3 rings and does not seem very efficient. I feel compelled to break this bad habit which I have helped create, and look for your suggestions on this topic.

2) How do I use a ball drive (which is extremely strong in my lab) to make my dog not only retrieve (which she does) but catch a Frisbee in the air?

I have already started bouncing balls of the wall and she is getting better at catching the ball on the run, but I don’t know how this can evolve into a Frisbee catch and was a bit shocked not finding this in your book.

Thank you for anything you can do or suggest for me to do,

-- Jason""

Dear Jason,

To be at it's best efficiency, the pinch collar should have at least 5 links with pronged tips. You might want to find the next size down for your dog and remove links until you have the proper fit. Remember that the pinch collar is recommended for the dog usually when she gets her adult teeth (usually around 4 to 4.5 months). If you do need to use it before then, be gentle with your corrections, as training at this age is usually done through positive reinforcement, motivation, and light corrections (vocal, not giving a treat, etc).

Make sure she knows the command ""Down"" as well as the hand signal. If you have to start from square one in teaching it to her, do it. Praise her when she does anything right and let her know when she needs to give you a little more effort.

Instead of using a ball for teaching her how to catch a Frisbee, use a Frisbee; the two toys are very different in dimension. Make sure she's excited about the Frisbee and gently throw it to her from a few feet away, aiming for her chest, and tell her ""Catch!"" If she even attempts, praise her. Keep trying and use the word ""Catch"" whenever you throw it and as she learns to catch it, throw it from farther away and have her run short distances. However, be careful of how hard you exercise her, as her joints are still growing. At a future point, you will know when you can stop using the word ""Catch"" and simply ask her if she wants to play Frisbee.

Whereas Marie wanted to know how to incorporate the use of the training collar into fixing her dog's problem of ankle biting:

""Dear Adam: I have a five month-old Maltese and I'm having a problem with him nipping at my ankles and pulling on my pant legs. Also could I use a pinch collar on him? He only weighs 4lbs. Thanks for any help you can give me.

Regards, Marie""

Dear Marie,

By biting your ankles and pulling your pant legs, he is asking for attention. I find it hard to think that he is trying to dominate you at this age, so the behavior is probably more related to attention. You need to eliminate this behavior verbal correction IN CONJUNCTION WITH grabbing the scruff of his neck and giving a firm pull.

If it's easier, use a prong collar on because the collar only pinches the skin instead of constricting against the neck. While they are very hard to find in conventional pet stores, they are available online and can be found by typing ""micro prong collar"" into a search engine. It will help you communicate with your dog in a way he understands. However, it's unlikely.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Do You Want to Start Your Own Pet Sitting and/or Dog Walking Business?

Author: Stacy Hansen

Are you thinking of starting your own pet sitting or dog walking business?

Here is a great starting point:

Step by step instructions to getting set up for success!

Decide what sort of services you would like to offer. Many will start out offering pet sitting and dog walking then will branch out as suggestions from current clients roll in. Once you are secure with the pet sitting and dog walking end of it, start branching.

If you have a lot of competition in your area, offer something to set yourself apart from others. One thing I offered in my business was coming home service. I would charge a small fee to run to the grocery store and pick up some milk, bread and any other fresh item for my client so they do not need to bother with that. I did that because I know how much I hate coming home and having to stop at the supermarket.

Once you know what you want to offer, it is time to set up the business.

First, you need to set up a business name before you can get a license or go any further. Your name should be catchy. You want your potential clients to look over all the other ""common"" and ""cutesy"" names and go straight to yours. The trick to being at the top of the list is to start your name with the letter ""A"". Having a name that ties you to the community works best, in my opinion. For example, if you live in Westown, you can call your business, ""A+ Westtown Pet Care"". Just make sure no one else took that name first. Try to get creative as well. There are tons of Pampered Pets and such. They have been played out enough. Move on to something else.

Now that you have a name, you can get licensed. Here is a link to the SBA, to see if you need a business license in your state. Just find your state and click on it. Many will just need to register with the state and will not need a license, but it varies....http://www.sba.gov/hotlist/license.html. After you check with your state, try your local, township office. Sometimes, they want to know about your business as well and you may need approval. Just make sure all ground is covered so you don't run into any surprises. I actually went to a township meeting this month and they discussed another individual wanting to start a business selling cars on Ebay. He said the cars would be in a garage and never seen by neighbors, but he still needed to get approval. This surprised me. I never thought about township approval.

Once you are licensed, it is time to set up the paperwork part of your business. You will need a service contract for your clients to sign. You will need a report card to record what you did during visits. You will need a way to track medications you may need to administer, you will need instruction sheets on how to take care of the pets and the home. Those are the most important and ""necessary"" forms you will need. Sound overwhelming? Do you have the time and skill to develop these forms? Don't fret. Go to www.businessformsstore.com . All these forms are there for you as well as more you may need. The kick with these forms is that they come personalized. They will come with your business name and logo if you have one. They also have many flyers to choose from which will also have your business name and phone number on it. When you are ready to hire employees or independent contractors, you can get those forms there as well. When I develped my forms initially, it took me, literally, months of research and design and I am pretty creative. It was tough. That is why they are now offered to you all! Alright, now you have a business name, license and the paperwork. You are getting closer...

Next you need insurance. Insurance is a MUST. There are so many things you can run into and you should be protected. You may think you can get away with it, but, Murphy's Law, something will happen when you are not prepared. Insurance is pretty cheap, running less than $200/year. You can get insurance from your local carrier if offered or you can get from a specialist. Most pet sitters will go through organizations to get there insurance, like PSI or NAPPS. I used PetSit, LLC. It skipped over all the beaurocratic nonsense I didn't want. It is strickly insurance. They say it is a membership, but never got hassled with anything, so I liked it. PSI and others have a test to take and more, I think. I never signed up for any of those, so can't really tell you much. I do know most do, so maybe they offer some great things. I would definately check it out and decide on your own. Here are the websites: PSI: www.petsit.com NAPPS: http://www.petsitters.org/Insurance/insurance_index.htm PetSit, LLC: www.petsitllc.com . Napps and PSI use Insurers of the Carolinas. You can check them directly at http://www.petsitterinsurance.com/ .

Next is bonding. Now, bonding is not necessary if you are working alone. If you have employees, you would want it. Bonding is there to protect your company against employee theft. Some bonding companies, however, will include the owner as an employee and, therefore, you will be covered. Make sure you check on this. The way bonding works is if your client accuses you or an employee of theft, the police are involved. If you or an employee is convicted of the crime, the bond pays out and you then repay the bond. Some clients want you to be covered and people will get it as a marketing tool. It is up to you if you want to purchase it. Now, PetSit, LLC offers a special additional coverage which will cover theft and accidents. It is around $85/year. The special part of that is it is like bonding, only you don't have to pay it back and don't have to get convicted. Check out www.petsitllc.com for more information. Okay, you are bonded, licensed, insured and physically ready to start. Now you need to get clients...

Marketing is the trickiest, most frustrating and time-consuming part of this business. Once you get some clients, the ball will start rolling more by word-of-mouth, but for now, you need to advertise...

Flyers are the cheapest and are best for getting just your area. Go get your personal flyer at www.businessformsstore.com and start distributing. Now, you can't put them in people's mailboxes without going through the post office...it is illegal. But, you can put them on people's doors and cars. The best places I have found are the pet food stores...not only PetSmart or Petco but local smaller stores. Pet Stores also work good. Post office bulletin boards are great and so are supermarkets. Basically, anywhere you go which has a bulletin board, put your flyer there. The best would be a Vet offices. If they offer boarding, you may want to get on their good side so they will refer their clients to you especially when they are booked. Another good advertising technique is the community newspaper. It is cheap, about $10/week and everyone gets one for free. After that we go up in price. Getting in the yellow pages is expensive and you can only get in at the right time of the year when they are publishing their new book. Call for rates. You can do tons of internet advertising and tons for free... Go to http://www.businessformsstore.com/free_business_listings_for_anim al_care_professionals for a list of places to advertise for free. You can also advertise there for free if you have a website with a reciprocal link. Alright, now you are advertised and you should be getting that first call any day now...but what are you going to get asked and are you ready to answer questions?

They are going to first ask what your rates are. Do you know what you want to charge? Keep it simple. I see people charging flat rates to all these extras. Don't confuse your potential clients and don't make it seem more difficult. This will turn them away. Be straight to the point. This is what I did... I charged $1o for a 15 minute visit, $15 for a 30 minute visit and $20 for an hour. Now, keep in mind this was 5 years ago and gas certainly wasn't even close to this expensive. I did this to make things easy. If a client just has a cat, you want a simple, cheap alternative for them. If they have 5 cats, 4 dogs and 2 rabbits, you know it will take some time for you to clean litter, cages, feed, water and then give them attention, so you know the $10 and even $15 rate doesn't apply. If you are going to service a larger area, you may want to do a mileage surcharge, but that is up to you. Even though gas prices are up, your really are not spending too much more per day. Maybe a dollar or too. Work it out. You will see. If you want to offer extra services as optional to try to make more money, that would work just fine. For example, pooper scooper. You may want to charge $5 per day or per trip, it depends on how many and how big the dogs are. If you want to charge extra for watering their garden for them, you can do that. Have all you want to offer and rates written out and ready for their call.

They will ask you what is included in the pet sit. Make sure you have a list of that also. For example, you may offer free mail and newspaper pick up, free light alteration, free trash to curb, etc. Be prepared to talk about your services. You should also tell them what you will be doing with the pet, which is what they do everyday to keep the pet in it's same routine. This is the purpose of having a pet sitter over boarding. Home Business Forms ( www.businessformsstore.com ) has a great pet sitting package which includes all you will need. In this package is a telephone reservation form and pet and client instruction sheet. You will use these to document all they will be requesting.

They will ask you if you have insurance and bonding. They may ask some specific coverage questions. I have a Q&A on the yahoo group PetPro about this. Go to http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/PetPro/ to sign up and read about these coverage questions. This is also a good support group for those just starting out and those already pet sitting.

Lastly, hopefully, they will ask if you are available and will book you!

It may seem overwhelming reading this, but it will become second nature once you get started.

For more information on this business and other aspects of pet care, go to www.businessformsstore.com . This site covers areas such as pet sitting, dog walking, boarding/kennelling, in-home boarding, aquarium maintanence, pet taxi, house sitting and so much more. You can also email Stacy at info@businessformsstore.com with any questions.

Good luck with your business endeavors!

About the author: Stacy Hansen Owner of Home Business Forms www.businessformsstore.com info@businessformsstore.com

Dog Ticks - How To Spot Them and What To Do

Author: Rose Smith

Ticks on a dog (or any animal or human) can be a serious problem. These wingless parasites are not insects, but are actually related to mites and spiders. Many people are suprised to learn that there are over 850 tick species, about 100 of which are capable of transmitting potentially serious diseases.

The tick's sole mission is to wait for some human or animal to brush against them so they have a wonderful new host to feed from. Because ticks can feed on many hosts, they can easily spread diseases between animals and humans. This is why it is very important for you to check your dog periodically, especially during the summer months, for any ticks that have decided to hitch a ride with your favorite canine.

Ticks Can Cause Lyme Disease

One tick in particular that you should watch out for is the Deer Tick. This tick is about the size of a pinhead in its nymphal stage and adult deer ticks are smaller than most normal ticks. Deer ticks are known to spread Lyme disease, a multi-system bacterial infection, which often has to be treated with antibiotics. Unfortunately, some animals won't show any symptoms of Lyme Disease although they may be infected and this can make it difficult to diagnose and treat. An additional problem is that the body does not develop an immunity to this disease, so you and your pet can be reinfected by new tick bites.

Dog Tick Removal

You must be very careful when trying to remove a tick. Do not use lighters, alcohol or any of those other ""home-remedy"" myths you hear about. Because ticks have a mouth that contain reverse harpoon-like barbs, there is really only one safe way to do this.

1. Use tweezers to grab the tick as close to the skin (and its mouth parts) as possible.

2. Pull straight up removing the tick. Do not burn or prick the tick, as it might release infected fluids. Do not twist the tweezers.

3. If a the small mouth piece remains in the skin leave it alone. It will work its way out of the skin as old skin cells slough off. If you try to pry the small mouth piece out with a needle, you may inadverdentley push it farther in, possibly causing more problems.

4. Put the tick in a small jar and label it with the person's or animal's name, address and date.

5. Wash your hands and the tweezers, then disinfect the bite area.

6. If possible, have the tick identified and tested by the local health department or your veternarian (in case there are further complications).

About the author: Rose Smith is the author and owner of Caring For Canines, a web site that provides information on natural dog health care. To learn more about dog skin problems, care and grooming, please visit us at: http://www.caringforcanines.com/grooming-aids.shtml

Here's What To Do If Your Dog Displays Submissive Urination

Author: Adam Katz

Bhabani wrote to me with her question about her dog and submissive urination:

She wrote: ""I have a mixed-breed puppy (German shepherd/border collie mix) which is 4 months old. It's very friendly with people but when it approaches people, it urinates all-over. The same happens when I come home in the evening. It becomes very excited and urinates on the carpet. Is that a submissive behavior? How can I solve this problem?

-Bhabani

Dear Bhabani,

Just for peace of mind, have him checked by your veterinarian to make sure the problem is strictly behavioral and isn't medically related. Once you have the results from the tests, you can start from there.

If your dog is otherwise house-trained, it is more likely a submissive behavior. You can help reduce this behavior by increasing your dog's confidence level.

Take the dog out more and socialize, socialize, socialize with other humans.

Agility training is also a great start.

Don't create as much excitement around the dog when he's known to exhibit the behavior. When you come home, ignore him until he's calm enough to greet. Is he kept in a crate while you're gone? This can help you by allowing you to come home and immediately take the dog outside to potty. By staying in the crate, he will be more at loathe to potty in it because dogs have an inhibition to using the same area as a toilet and a den.

The same goes with guests. If a guest comes over, they should ignore the dog and not fuss until he calms down. Do not correct him for urinating. Correcting submissive urination will only make the behavior worse.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Her Dog Defecates In The Crate

Author: Adam Katz

A Cavalier King Charles Spaniel owner wrote to me with the following question:

""Dear Adam:

We recently got a four month-old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel.

We can't seem to housebreak him. I've tried what your book and tape said to do. He goes ""#2"" in his crate. I have been doing what you suggested, but would like some advice on the crate issue. Thank you.

-Brenda

Dear Brenda:

The best solution to this problem is to build an outdoor kennel run on grass or pea gravel so that the dog can get reconditioned to eliminate on this flooring substance and not in the crate.

Otherwise, when you take him outside to go to the bathroom, you might have to wait longer to get a bowel movement. If the dog is on a schedule, make sure you get him outside after he is finished eating. If standing around waiting for him to go isn't getting you anywhere, you might try some light play or take a walk around the yard. Exercise has the effect of bowel stimulation.

When he defecates, make sure to praise him well. You might have to spend 10-15 minutes outside encouraging him to potty, but when he does, it is worth it. If you have an outdoor kennel run or even a securely fenced yard, give him less time in the crate and have him either be under your supervision in the house or out in the kennel. If you have not done this already, you should also clean the crate with an enzyme cleaner such as Nature's Miracle to eliminate all traces of the feces.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Her German Shepherd Dog Has Become "Collar-Smart"

Author: Adam Katz

Will wrote to me about his dog, Lexi, and said:

""Hello Adam. I have purchased your book and DVD set, and my 14 month-old shepherd Lexi and I have made great strides.

We started agility training at six months and thanks to the long line training, she no longer takes 1 or 2 obstacles and takes off running. We also are involved in training for show obedience.

Now here's my question that I need serious help with. I use the pinch collar during training as I should and she responds incredibly. The problem I have is when we are in the ring and she's wearing AKC standard collar, it's a whole different story, like we've never trained. She won't heel the way she does on collar (she lags behind) and on the handler recall she will usually blow past me. And obviously there are no corrections allowed at any AKC event. She's obviously collar smart, so please Adam, I need your wisdom.

Thank you in advance. -- Will and Lexi.""

Dear Will,

You say you that you are using the pinch collar during training? Are you training only during specific times of the day or is the collar on her all the time? Keeping the collar on all day (when you can supervise her) will allow you to correct her whenever she does anything wrong, not just when she's in ""training"" mode.

Do exercises during the day that aren't formal show obedience, but that make her obey, anyway. Work her in different environments; the driveway, the park, kitchen, neighbor's yard, etc.... So that she learns how to listen to you in any situation with multiple distractions.

Stage an event so it has the feel of an AKC show. Have friends and family come and even ""judge"" the show. Perhaps have a few other well-behaved dogs around doing their exercises. Put her show collar on as well as the pinch collar. Put her through her paces and the moment she messes up, give her a correction: this isn't an AKC event, this is your event and you say what is and isn't allowed.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Dog Training: How To Understand Your Dog's Mood

Author: Richard Cussons

Make you puppy training easier and more fun by understanding that your puppy is trying to communicate with you in other ways than barking or wagging his tail. Remember, your puppy also communicates with his ears, tail, paws, mouth and more and your puppy training and everyday life with your dog will be much more fun.

Here is a short guide to some basic dog body language and what it means:

Dominant - You'll find that a dominant dog has its ears straight up or forward, its mouth slightly opened or closed, its eyes open wide or staring, its body standing stiff and tall with hackles possibly raised, and its tail out from the body stiffened or fluffed. A low and assertive bark can often be expected.

Friendly - A friendly dog has perked up ears, open and alert eyes, a relaxed mouth, a tail or whole rear end wagging, and possibly whimpering, yapping or giving short barks.

Playful - A bow position with wagging tail means “let's play.”

Submissive - A dog with its ears tightly back, eyes closed and paw raised is showing extreme submission. The dog isn't happy but shows it will not attack.

Aggressive - An aggressive dog has its ears flattened back against its head, its eyes narrowed or challenging, body tense, mouth open to show teeth and tail held out from the body and fluffed up if possible. Snarls or growls are typical.

Worried - Sharp barks combined with growling, ears flattened and neck hairs raised means ""I'm worried"" or ""something is wrong.""

Fear - A dog shows fear with a lowered stance, tail down or tucked underneath, an arched back, looking or turning head whilst showing the whites of their whites of eyes and dilated pupils. Dogs often bark out of fear, especially if they are cornered, fenced in, or on a leash.

Stressed - A stressed dog will often have ears back and down, a wide open mouth, lips drawn back with rapid respiration. Also shoulders lowered, hunched forward, tail tucked, tension in haunches and will probably be trembling.

Now that you understand more about what your puppy is trying to say to you about how he feels or the mood he is in try to accommodate this in your puppy training and everyday life.

In a puppy training session your dog should be showing that he is in a friendly or playful mood. If he shows he is dominant then you know that he may not be taking you seriously or could be being stubborn and you probably need to be more assertive.

Some submissive behaviour is not a bad thing as it means that that he understands that you are in charge.

If your puppy becomes stressed, fearful, worried or even aggressive, you must stop your training and reassure your dog immediately. If you have been training for more than 15 minutes stop and take a break. When you come back takes things more slowly or approach things in a different way.

Use your knowledge in every day life too. Observe your puppy in different situations and you will quickly discover what he likes and dislikes or how he is feeling. You can then take steps to give him more of what he enjoys and more support, confidence and training in situations he finds more difficult.

About the author:

Richard Cussons is a dog lover with a passion for helping people with their dogs. You can find out more about

puppy training and care at his site http://www.all-about-puppies.com.

Choosing A Good Hunting Dog

Author: Kirsten Hawkins

Dogs have been bred for the purposes of hunting with humans for centuries. Whether hunting for food or sport, various breeds of dog have been used to help flush the hunted animals out into the open, to retrieve downed animals (especially ducks, pheasant, and other birds), and to sniff out and track animals for the hunter. It is with these potential duties in mind that a hunting dog should be chosen.

When choosing a dog for hunting purposes you may want to evaluate your needs and base the choice on what you want the dog to do, how easily it can be trained, whether it is likely to be “spooked” by the report of a weapon being fired, and how good its nose is.

Hunting Breeds

There are several breeds of dog that have a natural aptitude for assisting in various aspects of hunting. Hounds, for example, make excellent trackers, especially bloodhounds. They have a very acute sense of smell, even for a dog, and have no problem following several scents at once. Retrievers are quite keen at, well, retrieving. And make excellent bird-dogs.

Hunting breeds are separated into four general groups. These are the general hunting dogs, gun dogs, retrievers, and bird dogs. Some specific dog breeds may fit into more than one category.

Retrievers

Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers are experts at finding and fetching fallen prey. They are especially useful on duck hunts because their oily coats help them move effortlessly through water to find and retrieve the fallen waterfowl.

Pointers and Setters

These dogs are useful in hunting because they let the hunter know when prey is nearby. They are most often used in bird hunts and are trained to freeze and point their bodies in the direction of the hunted bird (pointers) or hunker down low to the ground when they locate a bird (setters). Spaniels also make good pointers.

Hounds and Trackers

Bloodhounds and other dogs with heightened senses of smell are used to track all manner of animals. Whether it is their traditional use in the British fox hunt or their usefulness in tracking down deer, bears, and other such game for hunters in the US, they serve their purpose exceptionally well.

About the author: Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.

A Look at Custom Dog Tags

Author: Alison Cole

Have you been shopping and shopping for just the right dog tag, without finding what you’re looking for to suit your dog’s personality? Choose your exact specifications, give them to the manufacturer, and they’ll produce a dog tag to your liking. Some retailers even specialize in custom dog tags.

Do you like the look and solid feel of stainless steel, brass, or aluminum? Or perhaps you are not picky, and just need a plastic tag. Plastic won’t last quite as long, but they are inexpensive and easily replaceable. A metal or plastic dog tag shouldn’t cost more than $40 in most cases, and in many cases they cost under $10. You can have all of your dog’s ID information imprinted in the surface of any metal or plastic dog tag.

Some dog tags are jeweled. You can sometimes choose an exact pattern that you wish the design to be in. If you want the shape of a cursive “R” for Rex, and you want it done in rhinestone, you can find someone to do that. Some retailers will offer a more limited array of options, but you can still usually choose from two or three types of embedded stones.

When it comes to really high-end dog tags, such as sapphire, real silver, gold, or diamond, there tend to be more choices. This is because you will be paying many hundreds, or even thousands of dollars for the material itself, so it’s worth it for the retailer to give you as many options as you like.

You also must choose the material and style of the dog tag’s collar or necklace. There are leather, nylon, rubber, and so on, on the lower financial end; and silk or silver chains on the higher end. Choose a collar or necklace that compliments whatever dog tag you go with. Just make sure your dog is comfortable with it.

About the author: Dog Tags Info provides detailed information on dog ID tags, free dog tags, and custom dog tags, including gold and diamond dog tags and other dog tag jewelry. Dog Tags Info is the sister site of Pet Tags Web .

Dog Beds for Larger Dogs

Author: Ken Marlborough

Large dogs and extra large dogs require more thought and planning when owners purchase a permanent dog bed. Even though large dogs can be just as lovable as their smaller canine counterparts, they require a more complex sleeping situation than small dogs. It’s obvious that a large dog requires a large dog bed, and that an extra large dog requires an extra large dog bed. This goes without saying. But how big? And what kind of bed is best?

In this instance the answer is a function of not only the size but the breed of dog. You must measure the dog when he is fully grown, or at least have an accurate idea of what his size will be when he is fully grown. Just as with smaller dogs, you have to take into account your dog’s sleeping style – for example, whether he sleeps curled up in a ball or stretched out across the bed. All of these factors will help define your choice of large dog bed for your canine pal.

Placement is more of an issue with larger dogs than smaller ones. No matter how sweet and cuddly your large dog is, very few people want to share a bed with a Great Dane. And the size of the dog definitely limits the spaces available to him for sleeping. You can’t squeeze a Great Dane comfortably into a small bathroom and expect him to stay there overnight.

Large dogs tend to have a strong protective instinct, and so it is quite often the case that they sleep near the front or back doors. If your living room or family room happens to be the nearest space to one of those doors, a large bed that resembles actual furniture serves a dual purpose. First, large dog beds and extra large dog beds that mimic real furniture will keep your oversize pet off of the real furniture without making him feel deprived. And secondly, furniture type beds are actually more comfortable than a more standard round dog bed. They have pillows to rest heads and paws on and they are treated with flea and tick resistant powders to keep your dog free from those bothersome pests while he sleeps. In addition, they are sometimes filled with memory foam and gel products that conform to the musculature of the animal, which helps keep him comfortable while he sleeps.

About the author: Dog Beds Info provides detailed information about small and large dog beds, as well as designer, orthopedic, and discount dog beds. Dog Beds Info is the sister site of Bird Cages Web .

Taking care of an older dog

Author: Neol David

Well I guess you know Dogs age faster than us. One dog year is more closer to a person aging eight years in life. Before we realize, we have to face issues related Health of your old pal. It is therefore important that you have common knowledge of older dog health and how you can better supply your pet through his older dog health years.

It can be very hard to determine older dog health issues that may arise because different breeds age at different rates. For example it is known that large dogs age more quickly than smaller dog breeds.

The first step in caring for older dog health may not be an easy step to start because many people are unsure of exactly when their dog is reaching those senior citizen years. The changes in older dog health symptoms come slowly at times. The signs of age appear gradually and are often difficult to notice.

As aging advances, heart, liver, and kidneys lose their efficiency, and the immune system is less able to fight off attacks by bacteria and viruses. Bladder control may be affected, and muscles decrease in size and function.

You may not even notice until many years later that your dog's coat seems less shiny, less clean, and not as well groomed at it used to be. These are signs that your dog has hit his late years in life. You might also notice that the hairs around your dog's muzzle will start to turn white for a few year.

Other signs including loss of hearing and some sight problems. Dogs can compensate for these conditions, So these mostly go unnoticed.

Well if your dog is getting old then do not panic. In these situations you need to take care of your old pal, just in the different way.

Diet : It is only common sense that our pet dogs should be put on a steady diet of high quality dog nutrition.This is especially true of older dogs who have hit their ""senior citizen"" years and are in need of better, more targeted dog nutrition.

You will be gradually changing up the amount of food that you are feeding your older dog. You will also be changing up the number of times that feeding will take place. One good habit you should start immediately with dog nutrition is to start feeding them very small meals throughout the day.

Your veterinarian should be able to suggest the best supplement for your dog when it comes to these vitamins and minerals. They may include zinc, vitamin B, and calcium.

Exercise for Older dogs Give your pet more exercise by taking walks, joining a dog club, fencing your yard, or babysitting a younger pet. If you always take your dog for the same walk, try a new route to a new park, even if the dog is resistant. New experiences are good, this will keep him sharp.

Since dogs experience more health problems as they age, it makes sense that they see a veterinarian more often. In addition, any change in a geriatric pet's behavior warrants a visit to the veterinarian. Visit to your Vet at least once per six months

About the author: Author : Neol David is Retire Major who now lives on small farm with his 2 dogs(german shepherd) and 1 cat. Check Out his Dog Behavior and obedience training site

Her Dog's Aggression Is Worse After In-Kennel Training

Author: Adam Katz

A Bull Mastiff owner wrote me, with the following question:

""My problem comes in a 147-pound package. Mack is a 15 month-old Bull Mastiff. He has been in and out of training since he was 10 weeks old.

He was starting to show dominance aggression at around nine months, so I found a training facility that would in-kennel train him. He was there for seven weeks. When I got him back he seemed to have a bigger problem than when he left. I was told by the trainer that he showed no signs of aggression there. He also said that he would have to schedule an in-home session which would run me another $250+. As it is, I expected a whole lot more for my $1200.

He also told me I have to take him through the whole training course again myself starting at day one in order to establish my leadership role in the pack. I have done this and he does great when there are no strangers around but if a neighbor goes out into his yard or one of my brothers stops by, forget it. He goes into attack mode. No fear in it by the way. I'm at my wits end. My brother is telling me I'll have to have him put to sleep before he hurts someone. I definitely do not agree with this; I just need to know EXACTLY what to do.

Its hard to desensitize him to strangers when the ones that know him won't come around and if I take him out around people I have a hard time controlling him because he out weighs me by about 30 pounds. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate any.

Thank you for your time.

Sincerely, MaryAnne

Dear MaryAnne:

What your trainer said is right, and should have probably been done the first time. Your dog is seeing the kennel trainer as the Alpha and obeying him, but has no working relationship with you as the Alpha. This is the problem with in-kennel training, in that the dog gets no one-on-one work with the owner, who is supposed to be the Alpha and have that position firmly established through obedience and the Nothing In Life Is Free program.

For now, you will want to start from square one as though he has never been trained and teach him what the commands are. This might go a bit quicker than normal because of the previous obedience experience. Use a prong collar on him: it has been referred to many times as a hearing aid collar and used on dogs that outweigh their owners, much like your situation.

When you reach the correction phase, where you teach the dog that each and every command MUST be obeyed, be very firm. If he is out in the yard, don't give him freedom off-leash until he can be under control. Work obedience with him in the yard so he learns that even in that area, he should listen to you. This applies too when the neighbor appears on the scene. With the prong collar, you will be able to give motivational corrections, even though you are outweighed by the dog.

About the author: Adam G. Katz is the author of the book, ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History."" Get a free copy of his report ""Games To Play With Your Dog"" when you sign up for his free weekly dog training tips e-zine at: http://www.dogproblems.com

Top Ten Dog Training Mistakes

Author: Rachel Brett

If you are in the process of training your dog or considering it, then you might like to check the following list to ensure that you are not making one of the common mistakes.

1) Giving different words for the same command. If you want your dog to obey your commands, you must be consistent with the words that you use. For example you may issue the command “Sit” most of the time. It is no good expecting your dog to also sit down when you say “Get down off my favourite chair”

2) Rubbing nose in urine This has no affect on training a dog. All you are doing is burning is nose. Which is probably something that you don’t want to do.

3) Smacking, hitting and punishing the dog. Experts dog trainers have shown that this type of human behaviour has no positive effect on a dog,

4) Shouting This will just confuse the dog. Remember, that the whole point of verbal commands is that you have taught the dog to learn from the sound of your voice to link it to an action that he needs to take.

5) Letting the dog eat at the same time as you. This indicates to the dog that he is your equal. What you need to do is let the dog eat after you. This will teach him that you are the master and in control.

6) Making training session to long. 15 minutes is just about right for a training session. This keeps it fun for young dogs that can have a short attention span.

7) Starting training too late in the dogs life It’s far easier to train a young puppy. As a dog gets older you will have to put in a lot more obedience training and may have to take the dog to a training school.

8) Puppy crate to big Puppies don’t like to be a in a big crate. It makes them feel uncomfortable. You can get crates that are adjustable. So that as the dog gets bigger you can adjust the size of the crate to accommodate him.

9) Training the dog when you are in a bad mood. Don’t train the dog when you are in a bad mood. This means that the tone of your voice will be different and the dog will not be able to link your verbal commands to the action that he should take.

10) Not giving lots of praise. To enforce your commands, when the dog has taken the right action give him lots of praise.

About the author: Copyright Rachel Brett 2005 If you need more information about dog training techniques then please visit my dog training resource website for information and techniques on how to make improvements. http://www.informa tionondogtraining.com

Taking Care of Your Sick Dog

Author: Jane K

Just like humans, dogs are subject to diseases and illnesses. If your dog gets sick, you may have to take him to the vet for treatment or even surgery. Your dog may have to stay at the clinic for a few days. When he comes home you will have to take care of your sick dog so that he completely recovers.

If your dog has been away from home for one or two days he will be excited and happy to be back again. Staying in the veterinarian clinic was most likely a frightening experience for your sick dog because of the strange people, smells and noises.

As excited as he may be, your dog instinctively knows that he needs rest. Try to provide a comfortable place where he can sleep. He needs to be undisturbed by people coming and going. If you have children, make sure they understand that the dog needs to rest and cannot play like he used to - at least until he fully recovers, anyway.

Give your sick dog a comfortable bed to sleep on. He should be warm and the bedding should be easily washable. A soft cushion covered with a sheet makes a good convalescent bed.

Your vet probably gave you instructions on how to care for your dog. You may have to give him medicine or change his bandages. Your dog may not understand where his source of discomfort is coming from and may try to bite you when you try to touch his wounds. You have to constantly reassure him with gentle movements and soft words that you are not going to hurt him.

Your dog needs plenty of fluid during his recovery period. If he gets dehydrated it can affect his kidneys. Make sure he has a bowl of fresh water at all times, and if he is not drinking by himself you will have to give him water from a bottle or turkey baster. You may have to raise his muzzle slightly so that the he can swallow. If you cannot get your sick dog to drink, call the vet. Your dog may have to get fluids intravenously.

Your dog has different nutritional requirements while he recovers from his sickness or injury. Food should be given in small amounts and can be slightly warmed to make it more palatable to your dog. You can supplement his food with vitamins and minerals - see what your veterinarian recommends.

You'll probably have to give your sick dog medicine, and this can be one of the hardest things in the world. Liquid medication can be squirted down his throat, but pills are more problematical. Hide them in his food and he is likely to spit them out. Pills have to be placed on the back of the tongue and doing this without losing a finger or two is a real art. If you keep his upper lip between your fingers and his teeth he will not bite down, and this allows you to put the pill on his tongue.

Some dogs are just plain stubborn and no amount of coaxing or fighting will make that medicine go down their throats. If your dog is one of these, you may need to take him to the vet. A bit annoying – but better than not getting the medication your dog needs to recover.

About the author: Copyright 2005

Jane K is a lifelong dog enthusiast with a family of four beloved dogs of her own which provide the inspiration for this site. To learn more about how to care for your own beloved dog – visit her at http://www.simply-dog-care-and-more.com

You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact

Dog Travel - Taking a Vacation with Your Dog

Author: Jane K

Like most dog owners, you probably take your dog with you on weekend excursions and trips to the country. When it comes time to take a longer vacation, however, we always face the dilemma of what to do with Fido.

Traveling with your pup is not always practical, especially if you are flying somewhere. However, there are ways to make dog travel easier and more convenient -- it just requires a bit of planning.

The best way of traveling with your dog is to go by car or recreational vehicle. You can make as many stops as needed and your dog has the space to stretch out. Dog travel by plane is a little bit more complicated but it is not impossible.

If you are planning on flying somewhere with your dog, she will probably have to go in the cargo hold. This can be stressful for dogs, as the cargo hold is noisy and cold. Most airlines will not allow you to take your dog with you during winter weather -- it is simply too cold for a dog!

When traveling with your dog, always keep in mind her safety and comfort. She should have plenty of water to drink at all times, but since she will be less active during the actual traveling time you can probably cut back on her food a little bit.

Think about where you might be staying

Where are you going to stay when you are traveling with your dog? If you are planning on staying in hotels, be sure you know their restrictions and policies regarding dogs. Some hotels will not let you leave the dog alone in the hotel room. If you want to attend an event that prohibits dogs, you will have to arrange for a pet sitter for a few hours. If your hotel caters to dog travel, they may be able to help you locate a local pet sitter.

Maybe you're going to stay with friends when you are on the road. If your dog likes to jump on the furniture you should bring along a couple of old sheets to use as cover slips. Your friends will appreciate this touch and will be more likely to welcome you back for future visits with your pup.

Your dog will feel more secure if you bring some objects from home. Although she will be happy to be with you, if she has her bed and a few toys she will feel more comfortable and less anxious. This will make dog travel more enjoyable for everyone involved.

Because of their natural curiosity, dogs make wonderful travel companions. They also pave the way for making new friends when you are on the road. Dog travel can provide some of the most memorable vacations of your life and give you new perspectives and experiences everywhere you go.

About the author: Copyright 2005

Jane K is a lifelong dog enthusiast with a family of four beloved dogs of her own which provide the inspiration for this site. To learn more about how to care for your own beloved dog – visit her at http://www.simply-dog-care-and-more.com

You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact

Dog Accessories

Author: Kirsten Hawkins

Dog ownership carries with it the burden of a number of other purchases. In order to properly care for a dog and to comply with certain local laws, the owner must have a number of dog accessories in his or her arsenal. Some of these items are necessary, others are merely conveniences. It is important to know exactly what you’ll need to properly care for your dog.

The Essentials

Most of the truly necessary items for dog care are fairly obvious. If you’ve got a dog you’ll need bowls for the dog’s food and water. Mid size to large dogs have a habit of moving their food bowls around the room as they eat. This can make a lot of noise and have the frustrating result of requiring the owner to hunt around for the bowl at feeding time. The problem can be solved by using a heavy ceramic bowl that is difficult for the dog to move around. A sturdy plastic bowl with a rubber lining on the bottom can be useful as well. The rubber on the bottom prevents the bowl from sliding around as Rover enjoys his meal.

For taking the dog on walks you’ll need a leash and a collar. These can be as simple or as elaborate as you’d like, but of course you’ll want to take the size and strength of your dog into account when selecting them. The collar can (and should) be adorned with a license tag or at least an ID tag that provides your name and contact information in case your dog is lost.

If you live in a big city like New York (Manhattan), Chicago, or other urban area, you’ll need to purchase that miracle of modern doggie convenience the “pooper scooper.” Most cities have laws against owners simply allowing their dogs to “foul the footpath” or leave little Poodle Bombs all over the city park. In some cities there is a hefty fine for such crappy behavior.

Optional Accessories

There are literally thousands of optional items available for people to purchase for use with their dogs. Some of these items, like the gravity refillable water dishes and food bowls, serve a very useful purpose, others – the dog bandana comes to mind – serve no real purpose and are merely decorative or just plain silly.

One item that some owners do find very useful, especially those that live in a hot climate, are “dog booties.” While they may seem like a simply precocious and relatively useless item, they do a good job of protecting the sensitive pads of a dog’s feet from rough terrain, rocky areas, and hot pavement. Those in cooler climates may not understand, but in some places, particularly the desert environments of cities like Phoenix, Las Vegas, and Albuquerque, the summer pavement can literally become hot enough to fry an egg. You wouldn’t walk barefoot on such a surface and neither should your dog.

About the author: Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.

Perfect Gifts for the Dog Lover

Author: Jane K

Have a dog lover on your gift list? Want to give a special gift that any dog owner will enjoy? You’re in luck! You can choose the perfect dog lover gift from the huge selection that’s available. Just about any type of product is available as a dog lover gift, so you can find a special gift that stands out from the rest.

You might be a bit overwhelmed when you first browse through a selection of dog lover gifts - there’s so many available! - but there’s a way to narrow down your selection. You can choose a gift by dog breed or, if you already have an item in mind, you can look for that gift in a dog lover theme.

Just about everything you can think of is available in a dog motif. Kitchen tools, cups and dishes, picture frames, and figurines can be found to suit the dog lover. You can also find fabrics and ready-made jackets, pillow cases, scarves, comforters and handbags designed for the dog lover.

If you are looking for a gift with a particular dog breed in mind, it’s easy to find something appropriate. It doesn’t matter if your friend owns a Dalmatian, an Airedale, a Maltese or an English bulldog – you can find lots of gifts that match the type of dog.

Dog owners love their pets, so a good dog lover gift is a picture frame that they can put a nice photo of Rover in. Check out the huge selection of dog-related picture frames that are available – you can find something to suit both owner and dog!

Speaking of pictures, your dog owner friend would love a sweat shirt or t-shirt with a picture of their dog on the front. This kind of personalized gift will be appreciated and remembered every time they wear the clothing.

Other popular gifts for the dog owner include personalized jewelry, tote bags, notebooks and stationary, and license plate frames. Any dog owner will be thrilled to receive these special gifts to remind him or her of the precious pooch in their life.

When choosing a dog lover gift for your friend, don’t forget to get something for the dog too. Buy some dog biscuits or a personalized feeding bowl to go along with your “human” gift and you will have a pair of friends for life.

Remember, a dog lover gift is welcome on any occasion. No need to wait for birthdays or Christmas – a special gift for your dog lover friend will be appreciated at any time!

About the author: Copyright 2005

Jane K is a lifelong dog enthusiast with a family of four beloved dogs of her own which provide the inspiration for this site. To learn more about how to care for your own beloved dog – visit her at http://www.simply-dog-care-and-more.com

You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact

Finding A Dog Breeder

Author: Kirsten Hawkins

If you’re in the market for a purebred dog, you’ll need to find a breeder from which to purchase the animal. This can often be as easy as opening the classified advertising section of your local newspaper, but you’ll want to be sure that the breeder you’ve chosen is reputable. There are several ways to help ensure that the breeder you’ve found knows his stuff and is reliable, professional, and trustworthy.

Ask for References

Any good breeder will be able to provide you references of clients he has worked with in the past. These will be people who have purchased a puppy or utilized stud services and will be happy to share their experiences with you. Choosing a breeder that was used by someone you know is a good choice as well. If your friend or family member was happy with the service and treatment he or she received from the breeder, the odds are good that you will be as well.

Prepare to be Asked Questions

A good breeder will have as many questions for you as you have for him, perhaps more. Good breeders work to ensure that the dogs they breed are placed with the correct people. They may ask whether you have children, what size home or yard you have, and numerous other questions to help them let you know whether the dog you’re seeking is right for you and your family. A breeder that doesn’t ask these types of questions may be looking just for the money from the sale of the dog and is probably not the sort of breeder you want to do business with. A good breeder always has the best interest of both the dog and the clients in mind.

Guarantees

A good breeder will have had the puppies checked for potential health risks before ever selling the animal. Some problems, however, simply are not detectable until later in life. If you purchase a golden retriever pup, for example, and six months later discover that it has hip dysplasia (a genetic defect in the animals hip joints, it is often nearly undetectable until the animal is several months old), a good breeder will issue a refund to you, no questions asked. Genetic defects like this are avoided by the use of selective breeding (hip dysplasia in dogs has between a 25% and 85% chance that it is genetic in origin), but sometimes a pup will display the disorder even if there is no trace of it in either parent’s history.

Other Sources

Aside from looking in the newspaper of on the internet for a dog breeder, breeders can be found through veterinarian’s offices, pet supply stores, and at dog shows. Dog shows are a very good choice since the breeders that attend these events are often showing one of their dogs or are there to see the performance of one that they bred and sold in the past.

About the author: Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.

Choosing Healthy Foods For Your Dog

Author: Kirsten Hawkins

Today’s pet food market is larger and more diverse than ever before. While this offers a large number of choices in various types of pet food, it also presents a dilemma in choosing the healthiest food for your dog. Are generic or store brands suitable for a dog? What about familiar name brands like Purina and Alpo? Are the pricier brands that advertise specially formulated ingredients (Science Diet, Eukanuba) really living up to their claims and worth the extra money? All of these are valid questions that loving dog owners deserve to have answered.

Dog Food Considerations

There are several factors to consider when choosing the right food for your dog. Different dogs have different nutritional needs at different stages in their lives. Some things to consider when selecting the food you’ll give your dog follow.

• The Dog’s Age

Puppies have different nutritional requirements than adult dogs just as human children have different needs than adult people. Senior dogs also have different requirements than younger adult dogs. Make sure that you select a food that is appropriate for your dog’s stage in life.

• The Dog’s Health

Does your dog have a specific medical condition? If so, the food you choose may need to be partially dictated by that condition. Diabetic dogs need low-glucose foods and dogs with specific allergies (yes dogs can be allergic to all sorts of things, just like people) may require certain foods as well. Your veterinarian can help you choose foods that are appropriate for a dog with a specific medical condition.

• The Dog’s Size or Body Type

Some dogs are overweight. Some dogs are underweight. Some have a natural tendency to get lots of exercise while others tend to prefer to lie around a lot. There are, of course, small, medium, and large dogs as well as the ultra-tiny “toy” dogs. All of these different types of dogs will have different requirements for the type of food they need as well as how much of it.

• Your Budget

Dog food can be expensive, there’s no doubt about it. And where dog food is concerned, the rule really is “you get what you pay for.” Low cost generics and store brands will lighten the burden on your wallet, but may not be the healthiest choice for your dog as they are made with cheap ingredients and lots of fillers. You should buy the best dog food you can on your budget to help ensure your dog’s nutrition.

About the author: Kirsten Hawkins is a dog lover and animal expert from Nashville, TN. Visit http://www.doghealth411.com/ for more information on dog health, the care of dogs, and dog travel.

Teaching An Old Dog New Tricks--How To Train Your Dog

Author: Paul Buckley

Whoever said you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, must not have owned a dog. If dogs are anything, they are extremely intelligent and can learn many new things given the chance to show you. When training your dog , keep in mind that yelling, hitting, cursing or punishment is uncalled for, as dogs will retreat backwards the more they are yelled at. Besides, you wouldn’t treat a child like that and dogs are essentially just little children with tails and four legs!

The first thing to learn when training your dog to do anything new is to never change your verbal expression, tone or volume. If you say, “come here, boy” then do not change to “Fido, come here”. By doing this, your dog will become confused and it will cause unneeded frustration for both of you.

A couple of tips to take into consideration when training your dog is to reward him with treats for good behavior, however be sure to also give a lot of praise and patting to ensure he does not rely totally on the treats when being good. You may also think about enrolling your dog in an obedience class. Even if training is going good at home, this will give him extra practice with interaction between other animals and people.

When training your dog don’t cram everything into one day and expect him to remember it. Dogs have short attention spans and will quickly become bored, so try to keep training time down to short sessions throughout the day. Here are a few of the easier and more popular commands to teach Fido.

·Come- Use a toy or treat to encourage him to come towards you. Say “Fido, come.” As he makes his way towards you, praise him. Once he is in front of you, hold onto his collar for 30 seconds and then let go.

·Sit- Press gently down on his backside and say “sit.” You can also hold a treat above his head. When a dog is forced to look upward, he will automatically sit on his hind legs. Just as he bends to a sitting position, say “Fido, sit.” Remember to praise and reward.

·Down- Get your dog into a sitting position. Slowly guide his legs straight down in front of him until he is flat. As you are doing this, repeat “Fido, down.” Keep him in this position for 30 seconds and then praise and treat.

·Stay- Have Fido sit. As you slowly take a couple steps backward, say “Fido, stay.” Hold your hand out as you do this, palm facing him. If he moves from position, tell him “no” and return him to the starting point. If he stays, praise and treat. Don’t forget to find a ‘release command’ like “ok”, or done.” This will tell him it is okay to move.

By using persistence, consistency and patience when training your dog, you will almost effortlessly be able to teach new commands and tricks. The ‘trick’ for you is to always praise and treat . Start with these easy commands and before long you will have him doing somersaults!

You may publish and distribute this article freely with my compliments, providing it is not altered in any way and that this attribution is included:

Paul Buckley Ardmore Internet Marketing http://www.OurDogSpot.com

About the author: Paul Buckley has been a professional pilot for nearly thirty years. When he is not flying, he is managing his numerous websites.