Pembroke Welsh Corgi - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Small

Height: 25.4 - 30.5 cm (10 - 12 inches)

Weight: 8 - 11 kg (18 -24 lb)

Life Span: 14 years

Grooming: Medium

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Active & intelligent

Country of Origin: Wales

AKC Group: Herding

Other Names: Pembroke Welsh Corgi

Temperament:

The Pembroke Welsh Corgi is alert, active, intelligent and outgoing. Pembroke Welsh Corgis are less reserved than the Cardigan variety. This breed is easy to train with their high intelligence and quick-learning ability. Pembroke Welsh Corgis can be dominant towards other dogs but will happily accept children, provided they are not teased as they are not tolerant of this sort of treatment. They are not overly suspicious of strangers, but are very alert. Pembroke Corgis bond closely with their handlers and family and make energetic and very self-assured companions.

Grooming:

Pembroke Welsh Corgis are undemanding when it comes to grooming. An occasional brush to remove dead hairs is sufficient to keep the coat looking healthy.

Exercise:

The Pembroke Corgis love being outdoors and need an average amount of exercise. They need to be taken for long, regular walks and are suitable dogs for sporting activities, such as fly-ball and agility trials.

History:

It's believed that the Pembroke Welsh Corgii evolved from cross-breedings with the Swedish Vallhund and the tailless Schipperkes. The Corgis were highly valued as members of the family, guardians of the children and for working with stock in the fields, which they controlled by nipping at their heels.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Long, short-legged, strong and alert.

Color: Red, beige, fawn and black/tan. White is permitted on the foreface, neck, chest and legs.

Coat: Weather resistant, hard, straight and of medium length. Tail: Short and customarily docked.

Ears: Pricked, slightly pointed and of medium size.

Body: The body is strong and long with a broad, deep chest. The topline is level and the ribs are rounded.

Additional Comments:

* The Welsh Corgi comes in two varieties (1) The Cardigan, and (2) The Pembroke.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/welsh_corgi_pembroke/

Redbone Coonhound - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Medium

Height: 53 - 66 cm (21 - 26 inches)

Weight: 23 - 32 kg (50 - 70 lb)

Life Span: 12 years

Grooming: Undemanding

Exercise: Demanding

Feeding: Medium

Temperament: Even-tempered & loyal

Country of Origin: United States

AKC Group: Miscellaneous

Temperament:

The Redbone Coonhound is energetic, even-tempered, happy, loyal and alert. Redbone Coonhounds are natural hunters and are always eager to please their owner. These dogs are excellent with children but due to their hunting instincts do not tend to mix well with other household pets, such as cats. Redbone Coonhounds are good watchdogs and will alert their owner when visitors arrive. Early socialization and obedience training is important for these dogs. Redbone Coonhounds are adaptable to whatever situation they are raised in, whether being an indoor companion or a hunting dog.

Grooming:

This breed is low maintenance and an occasional brush is adequate to remove loose hairs, as Redbone Coonhounds are light shedders. Their ears should be checked regularly and kept clean.

Exercise:

Redbone Coonhounds demand plenty of daily exercise. They enjoy being taken on long walks or running alongside their owner on a jog or when cycling. These dogs have a lot of stamina and endurance. They are natural hunters with a good scenting nose and are therefore likely to run off if an exciting scent is picked up. Redbone Coonhounds tend to be calm when indoors, but are not ideal for apartment living and should at least have access to a large backyard.

History:

The Redbone Coonhound evolved from cross-breeding of the Foxhound and Bloodhound. These dogs are specialists in coon hunting, but they are also efficient in trailing and treeing bears, cougars and bobcats. It was George F.L. Birdsong who obtained the foundation stock of the modern day Redbone, back in the 1840s. The first of the Redbone Coonhounds were commonly called 'Saddle Backs', as they were red in color but many had black saddle markings. After selective breeding, these markings were bred out and the solid red dogs became known as Redbone Coonhounds.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Robust, handsome, strong and muscular.

Color: Solid red preferred and small white markings on the chest or feet is accepted.

Coat: Smooth, short, shiny and flat.

Tail: Medium length with a slight brush and carried upright.

Ears: Set low, long, fine and hanging.

Body: The back is strong and slightly arched with a deep, broad chest. The length of the body is in proportion to the height and the ribs are well-sprung.

Additional Comments:

* The weather-resistant coat allows Redbone Coonhounds to happily live outdoors and work in all kinds of weather.

* A natural treeing instinct has been bred into the Redbone Coonhound, making them specialists in coon hunting.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/redbone_coonhound/

Pyrenean Sheepdog - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Medium - small

Height: 38 - 48 cm (15 - 19 inches)

Weight: 8 - 15 kg (18 - 33 lb)

Life Span: 13 years

Grooming: Medium

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Undemanding

Temperament: Alert & wary

Country of Origin: France

AKC Group: Not registered

Other Names: Labrit, Berger des Pyrénées

Temperament:

The Pyrenean Sheepdog is intelligent, alert, vigilant and animated. Pyrenean Sheepdogs are loving with children and get along with other pets so long as they were socialized with them when young. These dogs tend to be cautious with strangers. Pyrenean Sheepdogs are intelligent, ready to work and keen to learn. They form a close bond with their family and can be extremely sensitive to their owner's mood. These mischievous and enthusiastic dogs make good companions and enjoy being part of a family.

Grooming:

Pyrenean Sheepdogs need little grooming as their coats are supposed to look naturally shaggy. A weekly brush is sufficient and the loose hairs in the ear canals should be removed. The short beard should also be washed regularly to keep it clean.

Exercise:

Pyrenean Sheepdogs need daily exercise such as long walks or participating in dog sports. They do well in a most dog sports and enjoy working for their owners. They should not be restricted to a basket with only a daily walk around the block to look forward to. They need to be kept occupied otherwise they can become troublesome.

History:

For centuries,the Pyrenean Sheepdog has been working for shepherds, herding sheep and goats in what is now known as Southern France and Northern Spain. The breed was not officially recognized in France until 1926. These dog's were also used as couriers and search & rescue dogs in WWI. Since the 1960s, the breed has grown in popularity and is now among the 20 most popular breeds in France. The first serious attempt at breeding in the USA began in the 1970s when Linda Weisser of Washington state imported a breeding pair from France. The Pyrenean Shepherd Club of America began in 1987.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Alert, lean and shaggy.

Color: Various shades of fawn, with or without black. Occasionally with white on the feet and chest. Light to dark grey usually with white on the chest, head and legs. Blue merle, slate blue or brindle. Black or black and white. Unmixed colors are preferred. Large areas of white, predominance of white, or black and tan undesirable.

Coat: Thick, long, straight or slightly wavy. The hair is thicker on the croup and thighs and shorter on the muzzle. It grows away from the nose and eyes. The hair should not cover the eyes.

Tail: Set low, often docked, well feathered and carried no higher than the topline when the dog is active.

Ears: Broad at the base, fairly short, set well apart and should not be erect.

Body: The body is lean and strong with a long back. The loin is short and slightly arched with a sloping, short croup. The brisket reaches to the elbows and the ribs extend well back.

Additional Comments:

* There are two varieties of Pyrenean Sheepdogs (1) The rough-faced and (2) The smooth-faced.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/pyrenean_sheepdog/

New Designer Dog Breed - The Roodle

Author: Rebecca Prescott

Celebrities like Paris Hilton may carry their dogs in their Gucci handbags, accessorized to the glittering collar. But the recent trend in designer dogs seems to suggest that everyday people are catching this unfortunate trend.

Instead of simply buying diamante collars, however, people are demanding cross bred dogs with catchy marketing names. We've had the Spoodle, the Groodle, the Labradoodle, the Spanador, the Cavador, and the Retrievador. Now folks, meet the Roodle.

The roodle is a cross between a poodle and a rottweiler. They are the successful creation of a breeder from Melbourne, Australia. Fred Freeman has successfully bred 3 litters of roodles, some going as far afield as Hawaii.

Roodles have the crinkly coat of a poodle, but larger. They are quite stocky, and fairly big, with long floppy ears. Mr Freeman describes the dogs as having the intelligence of a rottweiler, yet docile and easy to train. His roodles are also non aggressive, do not moult, don't smell, and are low on the allergy scale.

The idea of creating a non allergic dog was what started the original breeder of the labradoodle, Wally Conran. Wally was the Manager of the Royal Guide Dog Association in Australia at the time. Someone needing a guide dog who was non allergenic contacted the Guide Dog Association, and Wally successfully crossed a labrador with a poodle that fitted this purpose.

So, the origins of the labradoodle were quite in keeping with the way many of what are now considered pure bred dogs were created. That is, they were created with a specific purpose in mind.

But the popularity of the labradoodle has created a new set of problems. Namely, many unscrupulous people, some with no experience breeding dogs, and others with none, or little, experience breeding labradoodles or other similar crosses, jumped on the bandwagon. Demand meant that these dogs were expensive, supply was short, and this attracted many into this new field.

But breeding dogs, especially across different breeds, is not simple. In Wally Conran's original efforts, not all labradoodles were low in allergy. And when it comes to trying to come up with new mixes, a lack of knowledge can produce disastrous results. For instance, breeding two dogs with similar genetic weaknesses can lead to the new litters born with an increased chance of the health problems associated with those breeds. Other factors include disposition. If people are expecting certain traits based on what decent breeders have produced, and they pay a lot of money for a dog that turns our to be completely different, those dogs may well end up being abandoned.

In the case of a dog bought to be low allergenic, this likelihood is higher, and this is exactly what is happening to many of the labradoodles being bought in the US now. They are ending up in shelters because they do not have the characteristics of the carefully bred stock the variation originated from.

And given that badly bred rottweilers can be very aggressive, if the roodle trend takes off in the same way, this could be a disaster all round. Especially so if a family with children bought one expecting the docile nature of the roodles created by Mr Freeman, and end up with an aggressive, large dog.

Labradoodles are not consistent breeds. And given that ten years was spent trying to get a rottweiler poodle cross, there is every indication to think that roodles are not a consistent breed either. That means that simply mating a rottweiler with a poodle is not going to automatically get you certain characteristics, especially in temperament.

Normally, contacting an association for a recommended breeder would solve this type of problem. But in this brave new world of designer dogs, this may not always be the case. Especially if the experience with the labradoodles is anything to go by.

The breeders at Rutland Manor and Tegan Park in Australia started their stock from labradors, poodles and labradoodles from Don Evans, another breeder who had discovered the breed independently of the Guide Dog Association. Those labradoodles were legitimate labradoodles, and they kept records of all subsequent breeding. They also determined which coats were low allergenic. They conducted extensive research and breeding programs to arrive at the dog that has become characterized as a 'labradoodle'. Contrary to popular knowledge, they are not the product of exclusively mixing in labradors and poodles. Other breeds were used occasionally, for certain characteristics.

The breeders at Rutland Manor and Tegan Park began calling their dogs, and those descended from that stock by reputable breeders, Australian labradoodles, to distinguish them from the labrador-poodle mixes that were being indiscriminately produced. The mixes were not quality controlled, many were allergenic, yet people with allergies were misled into buying them, expecting not to get allergic reactions.

The International Labradoodle Association was set up originally to help maintain the quality and characteristics of this new designer dog. Yet they now are seeking to call all labrador-poodle crosses 'Australian labradoodles'. If this is successful, consumers will have no way of knowing whether they are buying what they think they are, and what their health requirements determine they need. The end result will be more abandoned dogs being euthanased because of a careless association and even more careless breeders.

It does not bode well for the roodle.

About the author: If you need a

low allergy dog , try Bichon Frise dogs. Or if you'd prefer to

read about more dog breeds , click here. Rebecca Prescott runs the website, http://www.thedogsbone.com/

Shih Tzu Show Dog Judging The Head, Body and Hindquarters

Author: Connie Limon

The Head: The show dog judge will ask you to place your Shih Tzu show dog on the table. The Shih Tzu show dog judge will then get the first close look at your Shih Tzu's expression. He will be looking for proper shape and dark eyes. He will check the length of your Shih Tzu's nose. He will look for the ""correct"" slightly-undershot bite. The Shih Tzu show dog judge will evaluate the shape of the top of your Shih Tzu's head. He will check to see that the hair pulled up in the topknot does not alter the set and placement of the ears (all these things must be exact to the AKC standard for a Shih Tzu show dog to pass). One thing in particular the Shih Tzu show dog judge will not want to see in your Shih Tzu is any sign of fear, or if your Shih Tzu turns its head away. The expressions of fear or turning the head away would indicate ""shyness."" ""Shyness"" would be considered a fault of the AKC show Dog Shih Tzu standard.

The Shih Tzu show dog judge will look at the ear leather. He may raise the ears to check the length and thickness of the neck and to see if the neck is well placed on the shoulders. These are areas also that must be in compliance with the AKC standards of a Shih Tzu show dog. The Shih Tzu show dog judge may trace the angulation of the shoulders with his hands and the placement of the front legs beneath the body is checked. A Shih Tzu show dog judge may lift the dog up gently and let it down to see how well the Shih Tzu lands on its feet. He may check the thickness of the pads of the feet as well.

The Body: The Shih Tzu show dog judge will check to see if the Shih Tzu is in good weight, not to thin or too fat. The weight is measured on a scale of 9 to 16 pounds as being appropriate for the Shih Tzu show dog. Under or over this weight would be a fault.

The Hindquarters: The Shih Txu show dog judge will check your Shih Tzu's tail to see if it is set properly according to the AKC standard for tail set. The tail must be carried over the body to the correct degree. Angulation of hind legs is checked and a check for the strength of the hindquarters is also made at this time. An indication of weakness when the hocks are lightly ""twanged"" or evidence of cow hocks would be noted as a fault in your Shih Tzu. The hocks should be strong when moved gently back and forth. If your Shih Tzu is a male, this is the point in which the judge will count testicles. There must be two testicles present or the male Shih Tzu will be disqualified.

There are strict standards of correct conformation of the head, body and hindquarters, as well as other aspects of the Shih Tzu that must be met during the Shih Tzu show dog judge's evaluation. Further information regarding these requirements can be obtained from the American Kennel Club either by writing to them directly or from the AKC official website.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Rhodesian Ridgeback - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Medium - large

Height: 61 - 67 cm (24 - 27 inches)

Weight: 30 - 35 kg (66 - 77 lb)

Life Span: 13 years

Grooming: Simple

Exercise: Necessary

Feeding: Very demanding

Temperament: Dignified & brave

Country of Origin: Zimbabwe

AKC Group: Hound

Other Names: African Lion Hound

Temperament:

The Rhodesian Ridgeback is courageous, intelligent, active and determined. Rhodesian Ridgebacks make loyal and protective dogs. They are good guard dogs and tend to be cautious with strangers. They are generally kind with children, provided they are not pestered by them. Rhodesian Ridgebacks need to have positive experiences when young with other household pets to prevent difficulties once they are fully grown. Mixing with other dogs doesn't usually present any problems. Owners need to appear confident and show natural authority when training Rhodesian Ridgebacks, as they can have a mind of their own. The Rhodesian Ridgeback is highly adaptable and can easily fit into different homes and environments.

Grooming:

Grooming is easy with Rhodesian Ridgebacks. Simply use a rubber brush when the coat is moulting to remove the loose hairs.

Exercise:

Rhodesian Ridgebacks need substantial exercise as they are natural hunting dogs and have considerable stamina. A good way for them to burn energy is running alongside a cycle once they are fully grown. If these dogs don't have their exercise needs met they can become bored, overly independent and stubborn.

History:

It is believed that the ancestry of the Rhodesian Ridgeback is associated with a family of dogs that were bred by natives on an island (Phi Quoc) off Cambodia in south east Asia. Dogs from this island had the same characteristic ridge of hair along the back. Back when Phoenician traders were active in the 2nd and 1st century BC, many types of dogs found their way to different parts of the world. Credit must be given to those traders for the arrival of Rhodesian Ridgebacks in Africa. After the invasions of the Dutch and other European races in the 16th and 17th century, these dogs were crossed with breeds like the Great Dane and Bloodhounds. The Dutch Boers valued them as guard dogs, hunters of small game and alerting their handlers to the whereabouts of large game.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Solid, handsome and muscular.

Color: Light wheaten to red wheaten, with or without a dark mask.

Coat: Sleek, short, dense and glossy. A unique ridge of hair extends along the back.

Tail: Strong, tapering and carried in a slight upward curve when in action.

Ears: Set high, dropped and carried close to the head.

Body: The body is muscular with a deep chest and level topline. The shoulders are sloping and the back is muscular.

Additional Comments:

* Rhodesian Ridgebacks have gained their name due to their characteristic dagger-shaped ridge of hair that runs along the back from the withers to just above the tail root. The hair formed by the ridge grows in the opposite direction to the rest of the coat and can be up to 5cm (2 in) wide.

* Rhodesian Ridgebacks are ideal for those who want an impressive guard dog that is easy to maintain and keep clean.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/rhodesian_ridgeback/

Quick And Effective Ways To Stop Your Dog From Barking

Author: Marc Lindsay

It is usual to give new dogs a lot of attention when we first get them but this can lead to trouble. By spoiling a dog and giving them love and attention whenever they desire it you are setting yourself up for a barking dog. Boredom is the most common cause of barking in a dog and preventing your dog from becoming bored is the only real way to stop this from happening. It is most common for bored dogs to bark while you are not around, but it shouldn't be too long before your neighbors tell you about your dog's disruptive behavior.

The worst thing you can do if a dog has already learnt that barking gets attention is to keep giving him attention. If your dog barks because he is hungry and you quickly jump up to feed him to shut him up then he will learn that barking means he gets fed. Similarly, if your dog barks to be let in and you do so every time then he will learn that barking gets him let in. This doesn't mean you should shout either; the best way to stop dog barking in these circumstances is to ignore him. To a bored dog, being yelled offers more in the way of entertainment than being ignored.

One method that usually takes only two or three days to work will require you to be present when they are barking but is simple, quick and effective; not to mention quite pleasing when you've been woken up at 4 am. Have a small cup of water ready and if your dog barks take the water and stand near him. It is essential that you wait for him to bark again, but when he does then throw the water in his face. You may need to do this once or twice for the first two nights and if you have particularly difficult case maybe even on the third night but it is very unlikely you will have to do it again.

If you have a dog that is barking, growling and showing it's teeth then it is not bored but it is scared or anxious and may be liable to bite. In this case do not throw water in its face because this will inevitably lead to a bloody hand and an upset dog and owner. The vet or animal psychologist is the only solution in this instance.

About the author: Stop Dog Barking and Puppy Training product reviews so you know you are only teaching your dog the very best techniques.

Rat Terrier - Dog Breed Profile

Author: Dooziedog.com

Key Facts:

Size: Three sizes: toy, miniature & standard

Height: Toy: under 20 cm (8 inches)

Miniature: 20 - 36 cm (8 - 14 inches)

Standard: 36 - 56 cm (14 - 23 inches)

Weight: Toy: 2 - 2.5 kg (4 - 6 lb)

Miniature: 2.5 - 3.5 kg (6 - 8 lb)

Standard: 5 - 16 kg (12 - 35 lb)

Life Span: 14 years

Grooming: Undemanding

Exercise: Medium

Feeding: Undemanding

Temperament: Lively & playful

Country of Origin: United States

AKC Group: Not registered

Other Names: American Rat Terrier, Feist

Temperament:

The Rat Terrier is alert, intelligent, active, lively, fearless, feisty and playful. Rat Terriers are sometimes described as having double personalities as they can be tireless, courageous hunters on the one hand while also making friendly, gentle companions on the other. Rat Terriers get along with everyone including, children, household pets, other dogs and also with strangers. Rat Terriers love being included in family activities and thrive on human companionship. They are generally quick to learn and straightforward to train with positive reinforcement. Rat Terriers make great alarm dogs, without being yappy.

Grooming:

Rat Terriers are simple and easy to groom with their short coats. Occasional brushing is sufficient to remove any loose or dead hairs.

Exercise:

Rat Terriers are active, adenalin-charged and always alert. These dogs need frequent outdoor activity, especially for the standard sized variety. This breed enjoys games and romping in the garden. They should have regular exercise and be included in family activities.

History:

Rat Terriers were originally developed in England during the 1820s from Manchester Terriers, Smooth Fox Terriers and Whippets. These dogs then arrived in the United States, where the Beagle and Italian Greyhound bloodlines were introduced to make a gentler dog with strong hunting instincts. The toy variety evolved form the Smooth Fox Terrier and the Chihuahua. Rat Terriers are one of the best ratters and one of these dogs was reported to have killed over 2,500 rats within seven hours in a rat-infested barn. This breed's popularity was increased by President Teddy Roosevelt, who frequently hunted with his Rat Terriers.

Physical Characteristics:

General Appearance: Muscular, compact, curious and alert.

Color: White, tri-color, bi-color, black, tan, chocolate, blue, apricot and lemon. Tri-colors and bi-colors must have some white.

Coat: Smooth, short, dense and glossy.

Tail: Tapering, carried in an upward curve and preferably docked or as a natural bob (natural tails are not penalized).

Ears: V-shaped and either erect, tipped or button when alert. Matching ears are strongly preferred.

Body: The body should be slightly longer than tall and the backline is level and strong. The croup slopes slightly downwards and the loin is slightly arched, short and muscular with moderate tuck-up. The ribs are well-sprung and extend well back. The chest is deep and moderately wide and when viewed from the side, the forechest extends in a shallow oval shape in front of the forelegs.

Additional Comments:

* Rat Terriers are not good swimmers and should be supervised when around water.

* These dogs have the typical terrier personality of being lively, feisty and fearless. If you think of a Jack Russell times two then you'll have a good idea of the Rat Terrier's temperament and needs.

About the author: This article provided courtesy of http://www.dooziedog.com/dog_breeds/rat_terrier/

Great Tips For Breeding Your Dog

Author: Gray Rollins

Choosing to breed your dog is a big decision and it's natural to feel a little uneasy about the process. These dog breeding tips will help things go smoothly and help you enjoy the entire process.

One of the most important steps is choosing the right mate for your dog. The mate you choose should possess the qualities you want to see carried on in the puppies. Both male and female should be healthy and possess no genetic faults that could jeopardize the health of the puppies.

You also want to make sure the female is very healthy so that her pregnancy and birth are easier. You'll want to support her prior to breeding with excellent nutrition and supplements. Of course she should always have excellent nutrition, but a boost will help her energy and help her stay healthy during her pregnancy.

Good record keeping on both the male and female can help increase your breeding success, but it is especially important with the female. You should keep a history folder on your female which records important dates such as when you first see signs of the bitch going into heat, any changes in behavior, and any medical issues.

You should also have a good working relationship with your veterinarian who can be a very helpful resource throughout the breeding process, during the pregnancy, during labor and of course once the pups are born.

Male dogs have less reproductive problems than female dogs but they can be more difficult to correct. Anatomical defects, low sperm, and infection of the reproductive organs are the most common problems to watch for in a male dog. Hypothyroidism, arthritis of the spine, and Brucellosis should also be checked for in males that show no interest in breeding.

With the female, the main reason for failed breeding is wrong timing. Because of the length of time a female is in heat, without hormone tests it can be difficult to tell when the ""right"" time really is. Your vet has a variety of ways to test hormone levels to try to narrow down the best breading time, but at the end of the day it still really is hit and miss.

Female dogs usually go into heat every 6 months starting at around the age of one year. It's important to allow your female to become full-grown and developed before you decide to breed her as she is more likely to have a pregnancy with fewer complications. In some of the larger breeds this doesn't occur until the age of 2.

At around 10 to 12 days after going into heat the bitch will be ready to stand and hold. You start to count the days at the first signs of blood discharge. Each dog is different so you'll need to get to know your dog, how she acts, changes in temperament, and the amount of discharge because day one might actually be day three. You'll know your timing is right by the willingness of the bitch. When the bitch is ready the discharge will often change from a dark red to more of a tan color so you can watch for this signal as well. Try to place the bitch and stud together several days and several times throughout the heat period up to about the tenth day.

If you want to be safe then put the bitch and the stud together early and try and try again. It's better than being late because you'll have to wait another 6 months.

If impregnation occurs your vet will be able to tell around the 22nd day after breeding. Now's the time to start calling those parents to be, congratulating them, and letting them know their new bundle of joy will arrive in a couple of months.

The act of breeding is rather a natural one that requires little intervention from you other than placing the male and female in a safe and secure environment together. If the time is right you will be the proud owner of a beautiful litter of pups in no time at all. If the timing is wrong you'll need to wait for the female to go into heat again in about 6 months.

These breeding tips should help you find success in breeding your dog.

About the author: Gray Rollins is a writer for CreatingDogs.com. Visit us to learn about rare dog breeds and the best dog breeds . Come check us out if you love dogs.

The Common Dog Housetraining Issues

Author: John Lim

Housetraining a puppy is important for both the puppy and the owner. Problems with housetraining and similar issues are the main reason that dogs are surrendered to shelters. So proper housetraining can literally save its life and make it easier on both of you. It is important to establish proper toilet habits when the puppy is still young. After all, it will be very difficult to break once they are established. In most cases, true housetraining cannot begin until the puppy is 6 months old. Puppies younger than 6 months generally lack the bowel and bladder control that is needed for true housetraining.

The best housetraining program uses the dog's own instincts to avoid soiling its bed and the places it shouldn't do its ""business"". That's the basis behind crate training. Crate training is where the dog is confined to its crate in the owner's absence. Den training is where the dog is confined to a small area in the home. Dogs are naturally clean animals and will try their best not to use the dens as toilets.

This type of training usually works well for puppies or older dogs. The common problems from this type of toilet training are usually stem from not understanding the signals the dog is sending, inconsistent feeding times or trying to rush the process.

Do not rush! Some dogs cannot be rushed through the housetraining process and you should consistently praise your dog for eliminating at the right place. It's always better to housetrain your dog properly the first time than having the trouble of retraining your dog.

If your dog continues to soil the den area after house training, this may be because the owner has left the dog in the den for too long and the dog has an ""accident"". Another reason may be because the den area is too large. In this case, you can either make the den area smaller or take the dog to the toilet area more frequently. Another reason could be that the dog has yet to adopt the area as the bed.

Urinary tract infections and other medical conditions could also cause dogs to soil their beds. Please do a thorough check-up by a veterinarian to rule out any medical conditions.

Is your dog bored? One problem many dog owners overlook during housetraining is boredom. Boredom is actually the root cause of many behavior problems. Boredom can also be the root cause of problems with housetraining. Dogs that are bored often consume large amounts of water during the day. This excess water consumption can lead to frequent urination, even in its den area. Since soiling the den area goes against the dog's nature, it can quickly become confused and frightened, thereby setting the housetraining program back even further.

To prevent the dog from becoming bored when you are away, be sure to provide it with lots of different kinds of toys, as well as a safe and secure place to sleep. In addition, a vigorous period of play time can help the dog sleep while you are away. In addition, playing with the dog in its den area will help him bond with this area and recognize it as a safe, secure home.

Proper introduction Other problems with house training can occur when the dog's den is not properly introduced. In some cases, dogs may think of the den as a prison or a punishment. Those dogs may exhibit anxiety, such as whining, chewing and excessive barking. It is important for the dog to feel secure in its den.

The best way to housetrain a puppy or dog, or to re-house train a problem dog, is to know your dog's habits and needs. Creating a healthy, safe sleeping, play area and well-defined toilet area is important for any housetraining program.

About the author:

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Stop Dog Chewing - Dog Behavior Training.

Author: Chris Smith

If you own a dog there's every chance you will encounter dog chewing problems. This article outlines the common reasons why dogs chew, and also how to stop your dog from chewing .

When puppies and dogs chew it is a perfectly natural behavior , just very annoying for us dog owners. Sometimes the chewing can be a dangerous habit for your dog. Things like electric wires, poisons and any number of other objects can cause serious harm to your dog.

Common Reasons Why Puppies and Dogs Chew

- Lonely or bored.

- Separation anxiety , often occurs if you work long hours away from home.

- When they are teething .

- Through fear or a phobia.

- Seeking attention .

- Through anticipation, dogs often chew just before their owner is due to arrive home.

Dogs chew just about anything they can wrap their mouths around. My dogs love chewing socks, shoes, furniture and my whippet actually chewed a large whole in the side of our house!

How To Stop Your Dog From Chewing

Always keep in mind that your dog can't tell the difference between a $200 pair of shoe's and an old rag. And he is not chewing to spite you, dogs don't think like us humans.

- The best way to stop your dog from chewing is to actually stop the habit before it forms. This requires you to not leave your dog in a situation where he can chew something that you don't want him to. If your dog chews while you are away from home, keep your dog in his crate or in a kennel run . If you can't or don't like restraining your dog in this manner, just make sure you remove any objects that you don't want chewed.

- If your dog has a particular liking for something like a furniture leg you could try this method. Coat the object with a foul tasting substance (non toxic) such as bitter apple, cayenne pepper or tabasco sauce. This method often works, but can just transfer the chewing behavior to a different object.

- If you catch your dog in the act of chewing, give a firm ""No!"" and replace with a tasty chew toy . Give praise when he starts chewing on the toy. Never ever reprimand your dog if you don't catch him in the act of chewing. If you don't issue your correction within about two seconds of his chewing behavior, he won't have a clue what you are disciplining him for.

- A good solution for treating any dog behavioral problems is to give them some obedience training . You will gain the trust and respect of your dog by doing this, and it will also provide your dog with some mental stimulation.

- Give your dog lots of exercise, physical and as mentioned above, mental.

- Provide your dog with a few of his favorite, tasty dog chews . Don't give him dozens of them as he may then believe he can chew anything. Just give him a couple of good one's, and make it clear to him that if he wants to chew, it must be on his toys.

By applying the above methods, adding a bit of common sense and patience you should be able to quickly stop your dog from chewing. Good luck.

About the author: Chris Smith is a dog owner and creator of

http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

. Find out how to properly train your dog yourself, at home.

Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop (Coprophagia)

Author: Chris Smith

Although dogs eating their poop is probably a natural behavior it's still a disgusting habit to have! I mean, why would your dog eat his poop when you are feeding him perfectly good food?

When you're out enjoying a walk with your dog it's not a good look if he's got a face full of poop .

Apart from being an embarrasment to you, it could also be damaging your dog. Diseases and worms can be passed on when dogs eat the feces of other dogs.

And what about your dogs breath!

As is the case with all dog behavioral problems, the sooner you stop your dog eating poop the better. If you allow this filthy habit to establish itself, it can be difficult to put a stop to it.

Why Do Dogs Eat Their Poop?

There are many theories as to why dogs eat their poop (feces). It is thought that dogs perform coprophagy for two main reasons:

1. It could purely be a behavioral problem.

2. It could mean that your dog has an underlying medical problem.

Some Specific Reasons Dogs Eat Their Poop

- Bitches with a young litter of puppies often eat the puppies droppings to keep the area clean. Also in the wild this act by the mother could hide the presence of her puppies from predators.

- Your puppy may have a vitamin or mineral deficiency and believes eating poop will be nutritious to him.

- A puppy may begin to eat feces as a result of watching his owner clean up his poop. He just copies his owners behavior.

- If a puppy is punished for eliminating (pooping) in the house he may eat his poop to hide the evidence in future. He may associate the punishment with any time he poops, rather than just when he poops inside the house.

- It simply tastes good - I know it sounds disgusting but this may well be the reason most dogs eat their poop.

- Could be the result of anxiety or boredom.

- Could be that your dog is cleaning up his area. This should be you the owner's job.

- Some dogs have been know to start eating their poop when on antibiotics.

- If you are over feeding your dog he could eat his feces because he hasn't digested all the food properly. Therefore his feces still smell and probably taste the same as his dinner.

How To Stop Your Dog Eating Poop

There are lots of proven methods you can employ to stop dog coprophagia. One thing to keep in mind is to always have your dogs vaccinations up to date, and worming must be done regularly .

- Feed a well balanced and nutritious meal.

- Try feeding twice a day - keep it to the same amount though. Your dog may just be hungry.

- Always keep the dogs living area clean from feces.

- Teach him the ""off"" command. This is a basic obedience training command , if you have established yourself as the alpha dog your dog will respect this command almost immediately.

- Add a bit of Pineapple, Spinach or Pumkin to your dogs meal. Not sure why but apparently these things taste horrible in the poop.

- You will find a few products in your Pet Store that address this common problem. Forbid and Deter are a couple that I have known to produce good results with poop eaters.

- Use the power of ""negative association"" through the use of a choke or prong collar. Every time your dog goes to eat any feces say No! and immediately give the lead a short sharp tug. This provides a correction to your dog, he will soon establish that trying to eat poop is not a pleasant experience! It is crucial that you are consistent using this method, it has to be applied every time not just some of the time.

- As soon as you see your dog eliminate provide a distraction to him. You can run away from the area or maybe just call him over to you and offer him a treat.

- Some owners have found that by putting a foul tasting substance like tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper directly onto the feces will be enough to break the dogs habit. I'm not convinced by this one but it may be worth a try.

Of course if there is an underlying medical problem which is contributing to your dogs poop eating problem, then none of the above methods will be effective. In such cases you should get your Vet to give him a thorough examination.

One last thing - the good news is that most dogs grow out of this habit eventually.

About the author: Chris Smith is a dog owner and creator of

http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Find out why you are the best person in the

world to train your dog, at home.

Dog Training a Neurotic dog

Author: John Mailer

Dog Training a Neurotic Dog

A neurosis may be defined as a functional nervous disorder with no sign of disease of the central nervous system. Psychoneurosis is described as an ""emotional maladaptation"" due to unresolved unconscious conflicts, and may also be used to describe the condition of many so-called neurotic dogs. This means, to recognize a neurotic dog, we must identify some defective nervous behavioral functions, while ruling out physical injury or disease, such as hydrocephalus, brain tumors, etc.

This can be done in some cases through neurological examinations. Urine and blood analysis can often indicate internal chemical imbalances which are of an organic cause. On the other hand, they may also indicate the presence of severe environmental stressors. Combined with behavioral information, physiologic examinations might indicate a neuroses or the basis for a psychosis. For practical purposes, a dog may be considered neurotic if he shows signs of a functional nervous disorder combined with behavior that is both abnormal and maladaptive for dogs in general.

But how is a functional nervous disorder described in behavioral terms? The following descriptions are helpful:

* The dog that fails to inhibit the orienting (alerting) response to stimuli that occurs repeatedly and are known to the animal to be neither harmful nor rewarding. These dogs are almost always in a state of anxiety.

* The dog that responds to novel objects, sounds, touches, movements and even odors with exaggerated active or passive defensive responses. These dogs often lack adequate early social experience.

* The dog that fails to retain (in some cases, even to develop) voluntary or involuntary conditioned reflexes. This cannot be applied to the dog's total behavior, but usually is pertinent to a failure to form and/or retain learned associations involving defense and social behaviorisms.

* The dog that displays hyperkinesis. Signs include excessive salivation, elevated pulse and respiAuthor John mailer http://housetrainingfordogs.blogspot.comration, abnormally low urine output, and increased energy metabolism revealed through excessive, sometimes stereotyped activity, especially in close confinement.

* Displays fixations on objects, exhibiting ritualized behavior, usually repetitive and with no apparent objective. ""Obsessive-compulsive"" is the current diagnostic label of choice. While it is often treated with drugs, careful diagnosis shows that these dogs are suffering from frustration due to a lack of function in their lives. They are ""making work,"" and receiving internal neurochemical rewards.

About the author: John Mailer Solve Dog Training Problems

http://housetrainingfordogs.blogspot.com http://housetrainingforpuppies.blogspot.com

Training Your Dog To Sit And Stay

Author: Chris Smith

One of the first dog obedience commands you will teach is training your dog to sit and stay.

This is an important command for you and your dog to master. It will clearly define you as the dominant one in the owner-dog relationship , and will provide a solid foundation for more advanced training later on.

You can start training your dog to sit and stay at around three months of age. Some general things to keep in mind when you first start out:

- Keep the training sessions short, ten minutes is fine initially.

- Make the training fun, don't make it feel like a chore , to you and your dog.

- Sessions should be full of praise and positive reinforcement (more about this later).

- Be repetitive, practice over and over until it clicks with your dog.

Training Your Dog To Sit

The first step in the process is getting your dog to sit on command. There are three training techniques I use with my dogs, depending on their age and temperament.

1. For young puppies I like this method. When you see your puppy about to sit, or in the act of sitting, just say ""Sit"" in a firm tone . When your puppy sits praise him. In your dogs eyes this technique builds an association with your verbal command ""sit"", and the act of sitting. Most puppies make this connection very quickly.

2. For older puppies or dogs this method works every time . With your dog standing in front of you, grab a tasty treat and guide it over his nose, then continue up over his head. Hold the treat a couple of centimeters above your dog while performing this motion. It will cause your puppy to follow the treat up with his nose, and at the same time plant his behind on the ground. You should say the command ""Sit"" as your dog is getting into the sit position. Praise and reward your dog as soon as he sits. After a while you will only need the verbal command, not the treat.

3. You need a collar and leash for this next technique, which is best suited to bigger dog breeds. Stand next to your dog, both of you facing the same way. Hold the leash straight up tight, directly above your dogs collar . At the same time push down on your dogs back and say ""sit"". As soon as your dog sits, reward and praise him. Within no time you can stop pushing him down, then stop holding the leash up tight. All your dog will require is your verbal ""sit"" command.

The ""Stay"" part of the Sit and Stay is our next step. Since we have already trained our dog to sit on command, I prefer to use a ""release"" or ""away"" command , instead of ""stay"". This is bacause when I tell my dog to sit, I really mean sit and stay, until I tell you to do something else. The release command I use is ""off you go"".

The process goes like this. Tell your dog to sit, he'll stay in the sit position, then break or release this sit command by saying ""off you go"". You should use your dog's name then your release command to start with , which will cause your dog to come to you. When he gets to you praise and reward him. After a while you will only need to use your release command, your dog will understand that he is free to go. If your dog breaks the sit command before you issue the release command, say ""No!"" and put him back in the sit position and start again.

Over time you can increase the time and distance between getting your dog to sit and then releasing him from it. You may even want to add some distractions, or do your training in different locations . When your dog holds his sit position even when a cat cruises by, you know he is ready to move on to more advanced obedience training commands.

If you understand and apply these methods you should achieve the desired result. It may take a bit of patience and plenty of repetition , but you will get there.

About the author: Chris Smith is a long time dog owner and creator of

http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Find out why proper dog obedience training is the best thing you can do for any dog. Learn how to do it the right way, at home.

Dog Training - Training The New Puppy

Author: Cathy Perkins

Bringing home a new puppy is always an exciting time for the entire family. Getting that new puppy off the right start with proper training is very important to making that puppy a valued member of his human family. There are a number of talents that every new puppy must master, including going up and down the stairs, and how to accept a new collar as if she's worn it her entire life.

It is best to introduce a new puppy to the household when everyone in the family is present, and when the household is as calm as possible. That is why animal care experts discourage parents from giving puppies and kittens as holiday presents. The holiday season is typically much too busy, with far too many distractions, for a young puppy or kitten to get the attention it needs. It is best to wait until the holidays have passed before introducing the new family member.

Once the puppy is part of the household, there are some things he or she will need to learn. One of the first challenges of a multi-story home will be learning to climb up and down the stair. Many puppies are afraid of stairs, and that usually means that they do not know how to climb them properly. It is important for the puppy's owner to slowly build the confidence of the dog, starting off at the bottom of the stairs. In general, a wide stairway will probably be less frightening to the puppy.

To build confidence, the owner should go up the first step, then encourage the puppy to join them, using their voice, treats or a toy. After the puppy has joined you on the first stair, go back down and repeat the process until the puppy will go up that step on his own. It is important to build confidence slowly and not rush the process. Taking a one step at a time approach is the best way to teach the puppy to not be afraid of stairs.

Another thing every new puppy must learn is how to accept the collar. Learning to wear a collar is important to every dog, but many puppies are baffled, frightened and bewildered by this new piece of equipment. Many puppies constantly try to remove their new collar by pawing and pulling at it.

Fit is important when choosing a collar for your new puppy. A properly fitted collar, chosen for your puppy's size, is more likely to be comfortable and accepted. While choke collars, slip collars and training collars can be good training aids, they should never be used as a substitute for a sturdy buckle type collar. And of course that collar should have an identification tag and license attached. This identification will be vital in having your puppy returned if she becomes separated from you.

The best way to introduce the puppy to the collar is to simply put the collar on and allow her to squirm, jump, roll and paw at the color to her heart's content. It is important to not encourage this behavior by trying to soothe the puppy, but it is just as important not to punish or reprimand the puppy. The best strategy is to simply ignore the puppy and them her work through her issues with the collar on her own. Introducing distractions, such as food, toys or playing, is a good way to get the puppy used to the color. Getting the puppy to play, eat and drink while wearing the collar is a great way to get her used to it. After a few days, most puppies will not even know they are wearing a collar.

Please visit me on the web at Dog Training Advice or my blog at Dogs Rule.

About the author: Cathy Perkins is a dog lover who is allowed to live with her two dogs, Tillie and Pierrot, in the beautiful foothills of North Carolina.

Dog Training: Frequently Asked Questions

Author: Susie Aga Atlanta Dog Trainer

I frequently get asked the same questions by different clients all the time. Here are the questions and the solutions.

Why won't my dog come to me when I call them?

First of dogs with out a fenced in yard are the harder to teach come to, because they do not have enough time off leash and will not give that up when they are loose. If you give your dog ample exercise off leash in an enclosed park or some other area on a regular basis then it is no big deal for them to come to you when they are loose because they are not giving anything up. Also you MUST be exciting no one wants a boring dog and no dog wants a boring owner. I can teach you 3 tools that will get your dog to come to you first their name means come to me, then ""come"" as an emergencies command and then I have a secret weapon that is fool proof.

Why does my dog tear up paper, eat Kleenex and sticks?

When dogs tear things apart or eat strange things it usually an instinctual behavior passed down from the wolves. Most of the time it comes from when wolves would hunt for food and tearing the meat off the bone is satiating to them. Kleenex eating is a mystery to my vet and myself. I think it just tastes good. A lot of dogs will sit down and eat a whole toilet paper roll or Kleenex box. If your dog does this the best advice I can give is to keep these things out of reach. If they can't reach it they can't chew/eat it!

How to get rid of urine smells in carpet?

There are many different products out there; personally I have not found one that is 100% effective. Natures Miracle seems to have a good reputation. There are many home remedies like a dilution of vinegar and water to get the smell out but this solution can also stain many surfaces and carpets so do a small test site first and wait 3-4 days to see if the color changes. The professional carpet cleaners sometimes guarantee to get the urine smell out of surfaces, make sure so you're not wasting your money on another useless method.

Why should I get my dog spayed or neutered?

The number one reason is that there are more than 5000 homeless dogs in the metro Atlanta area alone not to mention the surrounding counties. There are some dogs prone to testicular and other forms of cancer by neutering/spaying them you could be saving there life in the future. Dogs that are spayed/ neutered seem to have less behavior problems then dogs that are in tact. The health of the dogs is also better and you will have fewer visits to the veterinarian.

Where should I get a dog from?

A breeder, a pet store, or rescue group? If you get your dog from a rescue group (Golden Retriever rescue /Lab etc.) you can get the breed you are looking for and save a life. The humane societies and shelters always have a lot to choose from. If you must go to a breeder or pet store do some back ground checking and make sure you are not buying from a puppy mill.

What are some poisonous things I should be aware of around my house and yard?

Some command foods that are poison to dogs are chocolate, grapes and almonds. Just a few teaspoons of anti freeze can kill a dog in the matter of hours. Pesticides can be very harmful to animals as well rat poisons, bug repellents and moth ball. Some house plants such as poinsettias & mistle toe, azaleas and tulip bulbs are also poisonous.

About the author:

Susie Aga

Atlanta Dog Trainer

Susie is the featured Pet Expert for Turner Broadcasting and hosts The Animal Hour radio show on AM1650. She is a member in good standing with the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She has four rescue dogs and donates much of her time and services to rescue organizations.

How To Easily Train An Aggressive Dog

Author: Marc Lindsay

Regardless of your reason for acquiring a puppy, you'll have to win it over. You, not your dog, will have to be the leader of the pack if your pup is to develop into a well-mannered family member instead of a burden. Dominance and alpha behavior are important concepts that every dog owner should comprehend.

Dogs are animals, not human beings. They are pack animals by nature. Every pack has a leader, known as the alpha animal, who dominates and leads the other members of the pack. The alpha is the boss who makes decisions for the entire pack. Usually the pack will have an alpha male and an alpha female. All the other members of the pack form a hierarchy of dominance and submission where everyone has a place.

In your home, you and your family become your dog's pack, as do any other dogs you may have. It is your responsibility to establish yourself in the alpha position. If you fail to do this, your dog will do it as a natural behavior. Many people assume that they are automatically in charge just because humans are superior to animals. But are you really the pack leader? Does your dog know it?

Being the pack leader does not mean you have to be big and aggressive. Nor does it mean that there has to be a battle of wills after which you are the victor. Anyone can be the pack leader. It is an attitude, an air of authority. It is the basis for mutual respect, and provides the building blocks of communication between the two of you.

A pack animal becomes a full fledged member of the group by a process called subordination. With dogs, subordination begins shortly after the third week of life and continues throughout early development. Most normal, healthy puppies are basically pushy animals, and will try to advance as far as possible within the social order of the pack. The key to successfully rearing a puppy is to establish yourself as the pack leader and then maintain that position for the life of your dog.

So how do you become the alpha leader? In the wild, the adults of the pack begin early to teach the cubs the rules. The adults grab pups around the head or neck and gently, but firmly, pin them to the ground. The cubs learn to greet the adults with respect by approaching them using a slightly crouching posture, with ears back, tail down and wagging, and they lick the adults' muzzles. The cubs do this as a sign of respect and affection, not out of fear. It is called the subordination display, and its function is to keep peace and harmony within the pack.

About the author: Training Aggressive Dog and Puppy Training product reviews so you know you are only teaching your dog the very best techniques.

How To Stop Your Dog From Barking

Author: Chris Smith

Training your dog to stop barking is one of the biggest issues you will face as a dog owner.

Excessive dog barking is a real pest for dog owners, their families and also the neighbours . But it is a fact of life that just as us humans love to talk, our dogs also love to communicate through their barking.

So it is a natural thing for your dog to bark, it's just when the barking is excessive that it becomes a big problem - and a nuisance for all concerned.

Dogs bark for any number of reasons, finding the trigger that sets your dog off is the key to solving the barking problem. Once you identify why your dog is barking or howling too much, you can then start to plan a solution to this behavioral problem.

One thing to keep in mind is that your aim is not to completely stop your dog from barking, rather just controlling it .

Why Do Dogs Bark Excessively?

- To express their needs (being bossy).

- They are staking out their territory .

- To alert other members of their pack (you and your family) of impending danger.

- When playing, through sheer excitement .

- Barking at other animals like squirrels or possums (my dogs get really cranky at possums, I'm in Australia).

- If they are isolated.

- If they are separated from their pack (you and your family).

- If they are trapped behind some type of barrier such as a fence or window. They may be able to smell, see or hear something that they can't get at (like the postman).

- They don't realise that barking is unacceptable and just do it for fun or out of habit.

- To express dominance .

- They bark because their owners have inadvertently rewarded their excessive barking in the past (this is important to understand).

- Lack of physical or mental stimulation.

- They may be uncomfortable or stressed for some reason. Things such as they feel threatened or they don't have an appropriate place to sleep.

- The dog may bark because he hasn't been properly socialized.

- May be looking for a response or some attention from his pack.

- Always keep in mind that although your dog may appear to be barking at nothing, in actual fact he probably is reacting to something. This is due to your dog having a much more acute sense of smell and hearing than us humans.

How To Stop Your Dog From Barking

The most important thing is to clearly communicate to your dog, what is acceptable behavior and what is not (in this case we are talking about excessive barking, but this rule applies whenever you are correcting any behavior problems).

One of the most common mistakes us dog owners make is to inadvertently reward our dogs excessive barking. When our dogs are excessively barking we actually reinforce the behavior when we do these things:

1. Yell and scream at the dog - this just gives them the attention they were craving.

2. Let them inside - this rewards their behavior .

3. Give them a comforting cuddle or some praise - this communicates to your dog that you are happy with them. What you want to communicate is that this nuisance barking is inappropriate .

Once you have established the reason why your dog is barking, you can then apply one or more of these proven techniques:

- Totally ignore the barking . This is a tough one to enforce but is very effective if your dog is barking to get attention. Just ignore your dog, don't even look at him. His barking will probably get worse to start with, but once he realises that it is not getting him anywhere, he will stop .

- Following on from the above technique, you must reward or praise your dogs good behavior . If your dog is behaving appropriately in a situation where he would normally be barking you must let him know you are happy with him.

- If you catch your dog in the act of barking, say No! and spray him with water . If you are consistent and use this method every time your dog barks, you will break the habit. This method uses the power of negative association. Every time your dog barks something unpleasant happens to him.

- Shield your dog from the distraction or cause of the barking. This could mean filling in any gaps in your fence or drawing the blinds.

- Obedience training helps with any behavioral problems . A properly trained dog will be easy to control and eager to please you in any situation. You can teach the ""Quiet!"" or ""Stop!"" command to stop your dog from barking.

- If you believe your dog is stressed you can try to make his area feel comfortable and secure to him. Put the radio on for him, provide some good chew toys and get a suitable kennel that he'll love.

- Give your dog lots of attention as well as plenty of physical and mental stimulation.

- When you see that your dog is about to start barking, call him over, get him to sit, then praise and reward him.

- Teach your dog to perform an alternate behavior to the excessive barking. If your dog goes off every time someone phones you, teach your dog to perform the down and stay command instead.

- Some people have had good success using Citronella Collars . Each time your dog barks, the collar sprays a mist of citronella into the air which causes your dog to stop barking. Similar to these collars are one's which emit high frequency noises that your dog doesn't like.

- Anti Barking Shock Collars are also used in cases of severe nuisance barking. These collars provide a correction or negative association each time your dog barks, in the form of a mild shock.

- A controversial method to stop your dog from barking is Debarking Surgery. This is a method I have never tried on my dogs and don't think I ever would. If your dog has a chronic barking problem it may be worth discussing this option with your Veterinarian.

- If your dog barks excessively while you are at work or are not home with him you can try this technique. When you arrive home ignore your dog, just go about your business for a while . Once your dog has settled down then go to him and pay him attention. Otherwise your dog will think his barking has caused you to come home. This will just encourage him to bark more and more, until you arrive home.

Whichever method you decide to use to stop your dog from barking make sure you are consistent and always reward appropriate behavior .

About the author: Chris Smith is a dog owner and creator of

http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com

Find out how to properly train your dog at home.

Solve any behavioral problem and teach obedience commands.

Dog Training The Psychotic Dog

Author: John Mailer

The Psychotic Dog

A psychosis is defined as a mental disturbance of such degree that there is personality disintegration and loss of contact with reality. The line between neurotic and psychotic behavior is not well defined, even by psychiatrists and psychologists. Two prevailing criteria can be added to the definition of a neurotic dog to describe, for this purpose, a psychotic behavior. These involve circumstances in which the dog's behavior is dangerous to himself or to the safety of others, and in which the dog appears to be unaware of the behavior during and/or very shortly thereafter his actions.

If only the first criterion were to be applied to biting or self-mutilating dogs, then they would incorrectly be considered psychotic. In fact, many people believe that any biting dog should be labeled as a ""psycho"" and destroyed immediately, regardless of the circumstances. On the other hand, if the second element applies, and the dog is unaware of his behavior, it would seem reasonable to apply the psychotic label. The dog that appears to have withdrawn from reality or suffers episodes of withdrawal could be either psychotic or physically ill. If the behavior fits the basic neurotic model and is also in some way harmful to life or well-being, then the animal may be psychotic, if otherwise healthy.

Dogs that are defined as psychotic have included the following symptoms: Dogs that suffer ""avalanches"" of rage for no clinical reasons and do not respond to external stimuli; manic-depressive animals that vacillate between depression and wild activity; and depressed dogs that fail to respond even to powerful stimuli, such as hunger, as when dogs starve to death in the presence of food. These cases have been seen in pet dogs as well as laboratory animals. The rage and manic-depressive states occur mainly in excitable types, whereas depression usually occurs in those with inhibitive tendencies. Some notable factors in the medical histories of apparently psychotic pet dogs are listed below.

* Early distemper (before 3 months of age). * Serious parasitic infection (before 6 months of age). * Severe beatings. * Accidental injury, especially to the spine and/or head. * Accidental drug overdose. * Prolonged corticosteroid or other drug therapy. * Diabetes * Extreme psychic trauma.

The underlying physical problems are rarely, if ever, investigated with the same dedication applied to humans with similar conditions. As a result, the dogs are generally destroyed, which solves the owner's immediate problem, but offers no progress toward understanding of the problem's causes.

About the author: John Mailer Solve Dog Training Problems

http://housetrainingfordogs.blogspot.com http://housetrainingforpuppies.blogspot.com

How to Successfully Train Your Dog

Author: Terence Young

How to successfully train your dog is a question that most dog owners ask. Fortunately, more and more professional dog trainers are disclosing their best-kept trade secrets for the benefit of fellow dog lovers everywhere. Training one's dog is a personal matter that every dog owner should take to heart. A well-trained dog is a happy dog that also translates to a contented pet owner.

There are a number of factors to be considered before you can even expect to successfully train your dog. For one, it is important to set up an appropriate atmosphere for the training sessions. Keep in mind that dogs have a short attention span and constantly changing the training area will only make it harder for the dog to concentrate and learn.

It is also important to minimize the number of people involved in the training sessions. Too many people will only distract the dog's attention. Experts suggest that initial training sessions should be conducted by one of the family members alone. After a time, once the dog has become familiar with the training, then other family members can be trained to carry out the same instructions.

A Guide to Successfully Training your Dog

Potty training is a major stumbling block that most dog owners have a hard time overcoming. To successfully train your dog in this area, experts recommend a reward-based technique. Giving your dog a treat after a successful potty activity will help reinforce the good behavior. Your dog is more likely to remember that good potty equals a yummy treat compared to a bad potty that equals a scolding.

Keep in mind that successfully training your dog requires time and patience. Repeating an instruction several times is common as it gives your dog enough time to realize the instruction given. In most cases, it may take several tries before your dog will be able to follow the command alone. Generally, experts advice repeating and helping your dog with a command at least three times before letting the dog do it alone. This is a good way to assess if your dog has actually learned the lesson or not.

Straightforward communication is a key factor in successfully training your dog. Giving out instructions to your dog should be done in a direct manner. The command must be clear and definite for your dog to quickly grasp. At the same time, you should also correct your dog in case he or she did not carry out the command correctly. This will help eliminate confusion and keep your dog on the right track to learning.

Training your dog successfully also involves establishing a relationship with your beloved pet. Your dog must understand that you are the master and that as your pet, he or she must obey you. Showing any form of apprehension during training can easily damage that relationship. So the next time you are thinking of giving in... DON'T. You will only make it more difficult for yourself and your dog later You will only make it more difficult for yourself and your dog later on.

About the author: Terence Young - For more dog obedience and training tips and ideas visit: http://www.obediencedoggytraining.com

A Tale Of Four Dog Foods: Finding The Best Chow For Your Hound

Author: Nathan Fischer

We all love our dogs and want to give them the best life has to offer. But with so many variations of dog food in the market, it isn't always easy to identify the best food for our dog. Who can possibly feel confident when so many brands trumpet buzzwords that hit the human aisles not long ago, such as ""rich in antioxidants,"" ""highly digestible,"" ""Omega-3 fatty acids"" and ""Ultra Premium Formula""?

What we can do, though, is to conduct a simple dog food comparison to determine which foods best fit our dog's requirements and our personal schedule. After all, some foods offer much greater convenience than the more natural, less processed types of food which may require freezing, thawing, cooking and preparation.

Convenience aside, the best food to give your dog depends not on the brand or the style, but rather on your dog's age and any special requirements he might have. For example, older dogs require food containing a careful balance of protein, fat and fiber. Most commercial dog food companies address this need with offerings such as senior dog food, containing about 18 % protein, and food for dogs diagnosed with renal failure, containing about 14% protein.

Dare to Compare Dry Dog Food

The vast majority of dog owners go for dry dog food. Between the supermarket and specialty pet stores, owners enjoy many brands to choose from. Dry dog food consists of kibble typically made from one primary ingredient such as chicken, beef or lamb. More specifically, the main ingredient is usually a meat byproduct that's been processed, dried and sold in packs or bags for easy dispensing. Needless to say, meat byproducts are far cheaper than meat, so this type of dog food is not only easy to store, it's much less expensive than other types.

Hard kibble comes with some advantages. For example, it gives your dog's mouth some exercise, and kibble's less likely to contribute to plaque than softer foods.

When comparing brands, it helps to remember that there are essentially two types of dry dog food on the market: premium dog food and economy dog food. A smart owner will avoid purchasing the economy food, which is made from lower grade ingredients (for example, economy dog food will often substitute cheap corn for the more expensive meat byproducts). The ""end"" result, as it were, is that your dog can't absorb many nutrients but simply passes the food through his body. So in addition to enjoying less nutrition, your dog will produce larger stools -- and you might find yourself with more frequent vet bills.

Other Popular Contenders: Canned, Semi-Moist and More

Other categories of dog food include the semi-moist type and canned food. Many owners like to mix in some canned food with dry food, to potentially cover more nutritional bases without taking too big a hit to the pocketbook.

Semi-moist food is attractively convenient to owners, and dogs love it. Unfortunately, it may cause dental problems in the mid-term and worse in the long term, because semi-moist food is loaded with corn syrup and other sugars, which dogs just aren't designed to process.

Recently, more natural, ""premium"" dog food has been introduced to the market, in which higher quantities of quality, nutritious ingredients are used to manufacture the food -- often human-grade, in fact. Since vegetables, fruits, real meat and quality grains are used as the primary protein source in the highest-quality dog foods, these foods are a fast route to healthy skin and beautiful fur. For the most part, they contain no artificial coloring and preservatives, but are chock-full of vitamins and minerals instead.

Although this food costs more, you can feed your dog less of it, because it's more nutritionally dense. So in terms of both convenience and nutrition, a premium, natural dog food is one of the best choices available to your dog, whether off-the-shelf or purchased online.

About the author: Nathan Fischer writes for Poodle-oo, a site for teacup and small dog clothes and

wedding dresses for dogs .

Dog Training Problems

Author: John Mailer

Hyperkinesis In Dogs

Anyone who has worked extensively with dogs has occasionally been confronted by an over-active, sometimes raging, vicious kind of dog, the handling of which has required a heavy duty tranquilizer and several helpers. In many cases, such behavior cannot be explained by improper handling or cruelty and neglect by their owners. When it seems that nothing can be done to correct the problem, then he is written off as ""just a plain vicious dog"" and relegated to the end of a chain or destroyed as a menace to the neighborhood. Since the early 1970s, such excitable and mean behavior has been identified in some dogs as hyperkinesis.

Hyperkinesis is a behavioral condition that is described as ""a hyper behavior that is treatable with stimulants."" by Bonnie V. Beaver, in The Veterinarian's Encyclopedia of Animal Behavior. Lack of accurate information from dog owners exists regarding this condition, probably because it has recently been given a new label which is ""attention deficit disorder."" While ADD, as it is termed, may describe certain aspects of the readily observable behavior of a hyperkinetic dog, it lacks the physiologic symptoms which can be described and measured.

Signs associated with hyperkinesis in dogs are usually displayed when the dog is stressed by close confinement and/or social isolation. Signs include rapid heart rate and respiration, excessive salivation, a high metabolic rate, and reduced urine output. The major difficulty in identifying the syndrome, however, is that there is no apparent cause. Clinical signs may be evident in dogs that are normal in other circumstances. In addition, dogs identified as hyperkinetic do not always exhibit the same behavior patterns or physical symptoms.

Initial symptoms of this problem falls into the following categories: the dog cannot sit still, even for a minute; he never becomes accustomed to everyday situations; he cannot be taught anything (often an obedience school failure); and he salivates constantly and always seems very excited or very nervous. Many experienced, gentle dog owners were bitten, and some of these dogs will viciously attacked other dogs without hesitation, even friendly and docile animals.

In studies designed to evaluate responses to stress, some dogs did not respond to positive reinforcement, and tranquilization were all tried, but did not work. Typically, such dogs would be eliminated from the study, but because the researchers were interested in the interaction of genetics and psychological environment, they were curious about dogs that appeared unwilling to be studied. Eventually the researchers decided they were dealing with the equivalent of hyperkinetic children.

About the author: John Mailer Solve Dog Training Problems

http://housetrainingfordogs.blogspot.com http://housetrainingforpuppies.blogspot.com

Dog Grooming Ins And Outs

Author: James McDonald

Dog grooming may sound simple, but it is more involved than just washing and drying your canine friend. There are some important health benefits that can be obtained by either learning the proper techniques or visiting a professional dog groomer on a regular basis. Not only do you address their fur but you also address their paws, ears, and other important senses.

Dog grooming as it pertains to the ears involves periodic cleanings and inspections. Your veterinarian or dog groomer will recommend a saline solution or similar product to help dissolve excess earwax. Make sure you learn the proper techniques before trying this to avoid injuries to their sensitive eardrums. Your vet will show you how to do it and what to look for, especially if your dog has longer hair. These dogs are more prone to ear infections than their short-haired counterparts.

When grooming your dog you will want to inspect their paws thoroughly. Look for any cuts or swollen areas that may indicate an injury has occured. If you find anything contact your veterinarian immediately to help avoid infections or other problems that can occur. And if all looks good, get a good set of dog nail clippers and trim their nails. Use a similar technique to what you do for yourself and avoid taking too much nail off.

If you ever noticed your dog dragging his behind across the floor you should take him to a professional groomer. He is trying to release some fluid buildup in small sacs located under his tail. Groomers can clean or 'express' your dogs' anal glands which will give your canine family member some much needed relief. This type of dog grooming should definitely be left up to the professionals.

Just like with your own body, periodic grooming is necessary to keep your dog healthy. You can do some of the basics yourself especially with a little education. There are many books out there that go into precise details. You should also have your dog visit a professional groomer at least once per year for a good once over. Doing this can go a long way towards him living a happy and healthy life.

About the author: James McDonald writes for discount-dog-products.com where you can find many different discount dog products for just about any breed. And additionally, we have many informative articles to help any dog owner with some of the common questions.

Looking After Your Dog, Part Two - A Comfy Bed for Your Dog

Author: Niall Kennedy

Your dog needs the comfort of a warm bed in much the same way as you do. Purchasing a dog bed is considered by many as being extravagant. However, it's far from being a luxury item, and is in fact a necessity. You would not want your dog to sneak onto your couch or curl up on your bed. You can avoid such a situation by providing your dog with a comfy bed of its own.

As dogs grow older, they tend to suffer from arthritis. Therefore, sleeping on a hard and cold floor can be a painful ordeal for them. Such sleepless nights may in turn render your dog lethargic and unwilling to go for a walk or exercise. Orthopedic dog beds aid in relieving such symptoms. A warm dog bed will provide the much needed comfort for your dog, especially on a cold night.

A nice dog bed makes your dog feel a bit more secure, and enhances its health and emotional wellbeing. Dogs are territorial and typically favor a particular area where they like to lie down more often. This is where you should place the dog bed.

With an elaborate range of designs and makes, dog beds can be quite fashionable as well. According to need, you can buy a small, large, quilted or water-proofed dog bed.

Another aspect that you need to consider while buying a dog bed is its appropriate size. You may have a rough idea of this by gauging the area covered by your dog in its natural sleeping position. Also ensure that the bed type is something that suits your faithful canine friend.

Investing in a dog bed is as essential as providing good food for your dog. Don't choose a dog bed just because it's easy on the pocket. Your main concern should be durability and comfort. A good quality dog bed may last the lifetime of your dog, while a cheaper one may wear out quickly. Therefore, give the best to your faithful canine companion.

About the author: Best Pet Health Information is a resource that brings you information about many aspects of dog health and care . http://www.Best-Pet-Health.info. Dog News Center - Dog Article Directory - Submit Your Articles Now

This article may be reprinted in full so long as the resource box and the live links are included intact.

Finding Out The Cause of Bad Dog Behavior

Author: Robert Bercume

Finding Out The Cause of Bad Dog Behavior

Figuring out the cause of behavior problems can be difficult to say the least. Most behavior problems have a common cause. Some include Boredom (due to lack of exercise), Loneliness (caused by to much isolation), Nutrition (poor or inadequate diet).

Most behavior problems can be fixed by addressing the following:

Sufficient Exercise, Companionship, Health, Good Nutrition, and of course good Training!

Training is a big factor. A dog wants to feel needed and useful. Getting a dog to obey, tricks, etc.. will do wonders for correcting bad behavior.

Training creates a situation of interaction and relationship building. A dog learns to respect commands and enjoys the interaction.

Dedicate at least 5 to 10 minutes per day teaching a dog something new. Spend a week or two on one goal and then move to the next. A dog will look forward to the time together!

Not sure where to start? Many professional trainers have brought their skills and knowledge to the internet in forms of ebooks, DVD's, CD-ROM's, Video, Books, Newsletters etc...

Always do research when selecting training material to correct bad dog behavior. Some programs use violent measures and should be avoided.

Happy Training!

Sincerely,

Robert Bercume

Dog-Training-Sites.com

http://www.dog-training-sites.com

About the author: Robert Bercume is the creator of 3 Popular Dog Training Websites, http://www.Dog-Training-Sites.com, http://www.SimpleDogTraining.com http://www.PuppyTipster.com helping individuals worldwide with their Dog Training Needs.

Frequently Asked Dog Behavior Questions

Author: Susie Aga Atlanta Dog Trainer

1. Why do dogs eat their poop?

One reason dogs eat their poop is because it just plain tastes good. Another reason is it could be a vitamin deficiency. One other reason for the poop eating is that it is an instinctual behavior in the wild to eat the poop to keep other predators from tracking their movements. Some solutions for stopping poop eating are: You can put meat tenderizer on their food and it is supposed to make the poop taste bad once it goes through the body. Check to make sure your dog food is nutritous enough and they are getting everything they need in their diet. The best and most effective way is to clean up after your dog immediately.

2. How do I get my dogs to stop barking?

Dogs bark as a form of communication. Dogs will also bark out of boredom. Dogs that are not with their pack [you are their pack] will bark to get the packs attention to let them know they are lonely. Dogs will bark to alert that there is a person walking by or another dog in their territory it is a natural form of communication. If you remove the stimulant then there is no need to bark at it. The best way to stop nuisance barking is to exercise/socialize your dog. If the dog is with their pack then they is no need to get the packs attention. Dogs also bark when they are excited it is their natural way of communication.

3. How do I get my dog to stop chewing up the furniture?

If you have a puppy it is probably teething and in some pain. The chewing is satiating to them and can possibly be soothing their gums. You can give them a cold carrot to chew on, make sure you give it to them outside it can get quite messy. You can also freeze chicken broth in ice cube trays for them to have to help relieve some of the discomfort.

You can also use Bitter Apple spray to detour them from chewing. Mature dogs usually chew out of boredom and stress. Exercise is the best way to release the stress. You can turn there attention on to something else that is more exciting then your dinning room table leg.

4. How do I get my dog to stop nipping and play-biting?

One way is to yelp very loud and startle the puppy. If the puppy was playing with another puppy and it bite to hard then the puppy would yelp to let them know it hurt. If the play stops as a result of biting too hard then the puppy will learn from being shunned away that biting stops the play time. Another solution for play biting is to have a toy and redirect the attention on to something else. You can also change the dogs environment take them outside for a walk is very helpful.

5. How do I stop my dog from potting in the house?

Once a dog start using the bathroom in the house the only method that works is PREVENTION. Every time your dog uses the bathroom in the house it takes 10 consecutively times using the bathroom outside that teaches it outside is where to go potty. So if you get to 9 times outside and then they have a mistake inside you have to start all over again. You must look at your dog/puppy as a 9 month old crawling baby with out a diaper on. Surely you would not let a 9 month old baby loose in your house with out a diaper on.

About the author:

Susie Aga

Atlanta Dog Trainer

Susie is the featured Pet Expert for Turner Broadcasting and hosts The Animal Hour radio show on AM1650. She is a member in good standing with the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She has four rescue dogs and donates much of her time and services to rescue organizations.