Friday, January 30, 2009

Getting The Dog You Always Wanted

Author: Hope Saidel

Do you look on with envy as your neighbor jogs through the neighborhood, his faithful dog trotting happily and calmly by his side? Does your arm ache after every walk with your dog - sore from almost being pulled from the socket? Do you watch dog shows with disbelief, unsure how that many dogs can behave so well all at the same time?

It only takes a few minutes a day to achieve a well-trained dog. It doesn't happen in one day, but with a training plan and patience, you and Brutus will achieve a happy partnership. Keep in mind that no dog, not even Lassie, Rin-Tin-Tin or Benji, comes into the world with manners.

Like any other project, dog training works best if you can break the task into manageable chunks and work on one piece at a time. Puppies and dogs have limited attention spans - short training sessions work best. If you can plan two or three five-minute sessions every day, you can train your dog. Over time, with consistency and patience, Gizmo will understand what's expected of him and become the companion animal you always wanted.

Will Ace understand what you're up to at first? No way. He will know that the being he adores above all others on Earth is spending some time with him. And that will make him happy. Banshee will wiggle with absolute delight when she realizes that these sessions involve not only spending time with you, but getting cookies!

Some trainers object to training a dog with food, believing that ""bribery"" is not a good thing. But most dogs, like people, pay much closer attention when they know there's something in it for them. Treats are a terrific motivator. Toys can also work well with many dogs. If purists consider treats to be a shortcut - what's wrong with that? Most people aren't worried about perfect obedience from their dogs - they just want to take Diggity to the park without worry.

A wonderful dog trainer said ""Every dog is trained to his owner's level of comfort."" Only you can decide which ""battles"" with Einstein are worth fighting. Make a training plan for you and Furface, work on it a little at a time. If you approach training as an opportunity to spend some fun time with your dog, you'll both look forward to your sessions and you'll achieve a well-mannered pet.

About the author: Hope Saidel is the co-owner of GollyGear , a bricks-and-mortar and online small dog shop featuring fun, affordable and practical products for small dogs. She has trained and competed in Obedience with small dogs for over a decade and is on the Board of Directors of the North Shore Dog Training Club.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

Dog Agility Training for Your Puppy

Author: Brad Carlson

You may be asking, ""When can I start agility training with my new puppy?"" You can start immediately, with certain recommendations. Puppies are always learning, so every time you are with your pup you can be playing and socializing with agility in mind. Always remember, if you can control your puppies environment, you can teach and train the behaviors you want, left on their own, even in a fenced yard, puppies will learn and develop behaviors that later we may want or need to extinguish.

Expose your puppy to different surfaces. One of the first behaviors we teach our pups is ""Box"" or ""Table"". This behavior transfers to the agility pause table. Lure pup up on a low pause table, treat them on the table. You can call the pause table anything you want. (If I was starting over I would name the pause table ""Box"" instead of ""Table"" for my dogs because on the agility course there is the potential to have too many ""T"" words, i.e. tunnel, tire, table, and teeter. The problem is I am also a creature of habit, and under pressure revert back to my default words, ""table"" would be one of them.)

Teach your pup to ""Box"", meaning to get up on a variety of obstacles. In our training field we use ""Box"" for upside down kennel tops, the bottom of barrels turned upside down, bird crates, and more. Be creative with your pup, get them to get up on all kinds of surfaces, exposing them to different shapes, sizes, and textures. Once your pup is comfortable getting up on a ""Box"", then you can begin to ask them to sit on the box also.

You can also begin to use Buja boards for motion training. Buja boards are generally made from plywood, 36"" x 36"" with a painted surface or covered surface. On the underside, there is a 2x4 box where a partially deflated ball is placed. This enables the Buja board to rock gently. At first you can reward your pup for getting one paw on the board, then reward for two feet and eventually all four. Depending on your pups temperament will determine how fast they get comfortable on the Buja Board.

Perch training can also be started with young pups. The Perch is generally a 1'x1' wood surface that is raised by 2""x4""'s underneath. So the Perch is about four inches in height. The Perch helps teach pups rearend awareness. Again, you can reward your pup for getting one front paw on the perch and then the other. Perch training is mostly used with just the front paws on the Perch.

These are just a few behaviors you can teach your young pup. Exposure to a variety of surfaces and heights will help your pup build confidence in his future agility training.

About the author: Brad Carlson is a dog trainer at Agility by Carlson. For more training details, visit our website at http://www.carlson-agility.com/

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Dog Training: Tips and Tricks to Stop Your Dog From Digging in Your Yard

Author: O'Neal Hendrix

It's downright infuriating to look out the window and see Buddy digging another hole in the yard. You yell out the window; he may or may not even acknowledge he's heard anything; then back to the digging. This dog behavior has got to stop.

WHY DOGS DIG.....

Did you ever stop to think WHY Buddy digs? (except to make you mad!). This is the real trick - to figure out why he's digging in the first place, the motivation behind the dog behavior. Then you can take dog training steps to discourage it, redirect that energy and possibly stop it completely.

1. I'M BORED!

Location: Digging along the fence lines and at the gate.

Why? He is bored and wants to get out for some action.

Solution: Provide more exercise for your dog, both physical and mental. The more exercise the better, according to your dog. A tired, happy dog will rest nicely between great outings.

2. I'M HOT!!

Location: Digging along the edge of the house or shallow ""pits,"" especially in the heat of the summer.

Why? Your dog is most likely creating a cool spot in the cool under-earth. If under the porch, he's creating a den.

Solution: Check to make sure you are providing fresh cool water throughout the day and night.

Is there adequate shade to protect your dog from the hot sun? Is good air circulation available or possibly a nice breeze? Or is the space filled with stagnant air?

Provide plant life (trees, bushes) for shelter from the hot sun. Cool grass keeps the ground heat down.

3. IT'S JUST MY NATURE!

Sometimes it's the breed of dog, not so much the environment. Some breeds tend to be burrowers -- hounds, huskies, malamutes are a few examples.

Solution: If this is the case, work with your dog to agree on a place he can do his thing and camouflage it with something like plants or fencing.

4. I LIKE IT!!

Some dogs just like to dig, and dig they will, no matter how much you yell and scream.

Solution: Create and help them with the ideal digging place -- a sandy blend with hidden treasures that reward digging at that spot. Having a prepared area encourages the digger to focus the digging to the area you set up in an out-of-the-way place. Remember to keep the area stocked with assorted treats and toys.

TO FILL OR NOT TO FILL ..... EXISTING HOLES

The second part of the story is.....

What to do with the holes that keep reappearing, no matter what you do? Have you back-filled holes dug by your dog only to find them dug again, over and over?

When this happens, the next stage of hole-filling is called for.

You might think this next step it involves yelling at your dog, or rapping on the window. Nope. Are you really going to stand and stare out the window hoping to correct the situation while it's happening (which would be the only way to really correct it using this method)?

TECHNIQUES FOR ""FILLING"" HOLES

There are two better techniques to encourage your dog to rethink digging that hole.

The easier of the two is to fill the hole until almost full. Mix the last portion of dirt with dog poo, pinecones, moth balls, or other repelling non-harmful substance. The next time your dog arrives for the big dig, he quickly finds the game has changed. Most dogs quickly change their behavior.

The second method is more time consuming but effective. Cut a section of chicken wire or similar to cover the hole plus 8 inches or more. Dig a hole a few inches deep that surrounds the hole and will fit the wire shape.

Fill the hole and then press wire in place and cover with dirt. Pack the area well, particularly around the wire edges. When your dog returns, the wire will stop his digging progress.

If along a fence line, secure the wire to the fence along the inside of the fence, just a short distance from the ground. When the wire gets to the ground, keep going vertically a short distance underground. Then bend the wire so the bottom is perpendicular to the top (forms an L). Bury the horizontal part underground inside the fence, pointing away from the fence. When your dog digs he is stopped by the wire and his weight on the earth helps keep the wire in place. The result is the dog gives up on that area.

Pretty cool, huh?!

CONCLUSION

We humans see digging as bad dog behavior. Dogs don't, and they dig for different reasons. If you can figure out why they're digging, you can put dog training steps in place to stop it. Some dogs dig, that's what they do. Set them up a space to dig and you both win!

Try these dog training techniques to change unwanted dog behavior. They seriously work.

About the author: O'Neal Hendrix is a premier professional dog trainer in Atlanta, GA. Considered a ""miracle worker"" by clients, vets, groomers, and even other dog trainers, she has helped many human clients create loving and respectful relationships with even the most difficult-to-train dogs. She has a wealth of knowledge about dogs--check out her dog behavior blog, http://www.dog-supplies-dog-accessories.com , for her advice and opinions on everything dog!

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Crufts - The Worlds Greatest Dog Show?

Author: Stephanie Bayliss

Crufts calls itself The Worlds Greatest Dog Show, so what should you expect if you've never been before? Well on the 9 th - 12 th March 2006 it's the 103 rd Crufts Dog Show, so they must be doing something right!

In 2005, Birmingham, England's 2 nd City saw 21,000 dogs and 120,000 visitors to Crufts across four days and 2006 is set to see similar success.

Crufts truly is an international affair with visitors and show dogs from all around the world. But its not just 4 days of pampered show dogs on display at Crufts.

There is the competition, pace and noise of agility and flyball. There are displays from the best of the UK's police dogs and customs dogs, apprehending criminals and sniffing out contraband and weapons.

There are dogs who herd ducks and terriers who race in addition to the beautiful art of Heelwork to music and obedience trials.

Crufts also brings Discover Dogs to Birmingham, an opportunity to meet expert owners and breed representatives and the chance to get up close to hundreds of dog breeds from around the world. There are all shapes and sizes of dogs and dogs for every type of home. For anyone looking for a new dog, this is a perfect opportunity to consider all of the different breeds available. And for anyone who loves dogs, adults and children alike, this is a chance to play with and cuddle the dogs at the exhibition!

Add to all of this the stands, selling everything from dog food to dog clothes, pictures and ornaments to shampoos and brushes.

Crufts really is an event that every dog lover should visit at least once; but I suspect that if you do see it once, you'll go back again and again!!

About the author: Stephanie has written many articles on dogs which can be found at the Kennel Corner website.

Monday, January 26, 2009

Express Your Love by Expressing Your Dog - The Dirt on a Dog-owners' Dirtiest Job

Author: Randal Breaux

There is a dreadful substance inside your dog's butt that's aching to get out, and unless you rise to this disgusting challenge, consequences can be dire.

It's called expressing your dog, and it is a chore so foul that it was recently featured on the Discovery Channel's ""Dirty Jobs."" Actually, ""dirty"" hardly does the situation justice.

If your dog is chewing and biting ""back there"" or dragging its rump across the ground, chances are he is in need of a little expression - of his sphincter glands, that is.

Dogs have special glands that secrete an especially - shall we say - fragrant substance into their poop. It's what makes a dog's poop her own, and it's what dogs sniff for when they are investigating other dogs' rears or their droppings.

Problems occur when these glands get clogged up. The musky fluid begins to collect, and the dogs begin to experience irritating pressure and pain - like a turbo case of hemorrhoids.

Usually, the dog is able to express - or squeeze out - some of the fluid and get the glands flowing again. If your dog has ever been inexplicably stinky - almost like he has gotten into rotten fish or something, then chances are you've experienced a do-it-yourself expression job.

If you're lucky, the sacred event took place outside, but just as often the residue ends up saturating carpet or expensive furniture. Yum!

Things get worse if the dog is unable to alleviate the problem, and the situation goes unchecked. As you might imagine, this can be an excruciating experience for your dog. Finally, you will most likely be saddled with an expensive vet bill, and your dog will end up needing a most uncomfortable surgical procedure.

Getting Down to Dirty Business

All of this can be easily avoided by a little human intervention. Expressing a dog is a simple enough procedure - it's the mental challenge that is most difficult to overcome. Vile fluids squirting from a dog's butt is certainly not a mental image you'd want to hold during meditation or anything.

Honestly, it's really not bad. The liquid smells like fish, not ...uh ...you know. It's mostly clear liquid, and it rinses pretty easily. It doesn't have the staying power of the substance that cats spray (which is truly disgusting!).

Finding the glands is easy. If the butt hole itself is the center of a clock, the two glands sit at the four and eight o'clock positions about two inches from the ""center."" From the outside (and it is strongly suggested you stay outside, even though vets usually venture in), they feel like kidney beans, although distended glands can get significantly larger.

Before you dive in, I can hardly stress enough the importance of pointing the dog's bottom away from you and anything else you care about. Also, make sure you have something to wash the dog and your surroundings down after the procedure. If it's warm, take the dog outside; if it's cold, a shower stall that has a rinse hose is a good option.

I can recommend two expressing techniques. First, the upward thrust: position your thumb and forefinger each under one gland; push in to make sure your digits are firmly fixed under each; then give a strong lift, squeezing the glands upward. If you are successful, usually you will be rewarded with a good squirt - about the same as a squirt gun. Sometimes the fluid gets sludgy, in which case a small black worm of crud will emerge. Repeat a few times as required to make sure you've emptied both glands thoroughly.

If this technique does not produce the desired result, then you should try the more direct approach: pinching each gland separately, squeezing both sides toward the middle. Expect similar results as when using the first technique.

Do it Yourself?

If you are too squeamish to contemplate perpetrating such an abomination, you will be happy to know that professional help is available. Most groomers are willing to render this value-added service for a small consideration during a regular grooming; failing that, your local vet can certainly perform the ritual, but usually at a higher fee.

I find, however, that my own dogs (three pugs) seem to appreciate my keeping this very personal need of theirs within the confines of the family. When I first started doing the expression thing myself, I wore what amounted to a home-made hazmat suit, but over the years my resolve has stiffened quite a bit.

Nowadays, I generally don't even bother with gloves. I just take the dogs outside next to the hose and aim them away. A quick squirt and rinse and the job's done. No big deal, really. It's a small price to pay for a happy, comfortable dog - who seem to appreciate me all the more for it.

About the author:

Randal Breaux is owned and operated by three pugs - along with his wife and two daughters - in The Woodlands, TX (just outside Houston).

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Training the dog to come when it is called

Author: Chris Vergaelen

Training a dog to come when it is called is a vital, and potentially life saving, part of any successful dog training program. All properly trained dogs must learn to respond instantly to the owner's voice, and the sooner this lesson is learned the better.

The advantages of teaching a dog to come when called are obvious. For starters, coming when called will help you regain control of the dog in case of collar break, snapped leash or other similar equipment failure. This is particularly important when you are out with your dog, especially in an area with lots of traffic. It is vital that the dog respond to your voice and return to your side, even in the absence of collar and leash, and even if there are lots of other things competing for its attention.

Coming when called is also a vital skill for every working dog. Whether the dog's job is herding sheep, guarding livestock, or sniffing out bombs and drugs at the airport, the working dog must be under total control at all times, whether on leash or off.

Even if your dog's only job is being a loyal companion, it is still vital that he learn this important basic obedience exercise. After the first obedience lessons, such as heeling, stopping on command, sitting on command, etc. have been learned, it is time to start incorporating the come when called lessons into the daily training sessions.

One note about dog training - it is all too easy for training sessions to become dull and routine for both handler and dog. A bored dog will not be receptive to learning, just as a bored handler will not be a good teacher. It is important, therefore, to always incorporate fun things and play into every training session. Incorporating a few minutes of play time before the lesson begins can do wonders for the attitude of dog and human alike. Likewise, ending each training session with a few minutes of free play time is a great way to end on a positive note and to help the dog associate obedience training with fun and not drudgery.

The command to stay and the command to come when called are often combined in obedience training lessons, and they do go naturally together. Start with the dog on a loose leash, ask the dog to sit and then slowly back away. If the dog begins to get up and follow you, return to the dog and ask him to sit again. Continue this process until you can reach the end of the leash without the dog getting up.

After you can successfully reach the end of the leash on a consistent basis, try dropping the leash altogether. Of course you will want to do this in a controlled environment like a fenced in yard. After the dog has mastered the stay command, it is time to add the come when called command.

Take up the leash again, and with the dog on the end of the leash, say ""come"" or ""come here"". It is often helpful to use a lure when teaching this behavior. The lure provides a visible item for the dog to focus on. Teaching the dog to come to the lure is a good first step in training the dog to come when called.

Repeat this procedure many times until the dog will consistently stay and then come when called. After the dog has mastered coming when called while attached to the leash, slowly start introducing the concept when the leash is removed. As before, these training sessions should only take place in a controlled, safe environment, such as a fenced in front or back yard.

A well trained, obedient dog should respond to the call to return to its owner no matter where it is and no matter what distractions may occur. It is therefore necessary to test the dog with distractions of your own.

If you have a neighbor, preferably one with a dog of his own, try having him come over with the dog. Have him, and the dog, stand just outside the fenced in area and repeat the come when called exercise with your dog off leash. If he becomes distracted by the other dog, put the leash back on and repeat the process. The goal is to have your dog consistently pay attention to your commands, no matter what distractions may present themselves.

About the author: Chris Vergaelen has a large experience in training dogs. For more information, visit the site Dog training

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Want to find the Perfect Dog for your home? Then the Havanese might just be the puppy you're looking for!

Author: Fiona Kelly

Unsure which Dog Breed to choose? Well I don't blame you - there are literally hundreds to choose from! Do you fancy some dogs, only to find out that they just won't suit your lifestyle! Are you STILL looking?

Here is a Tip......

There is one dog breed that you really need to consider. In fact it hasn't been in the states for very long and already is becoming one of the most sought after little dogs going around. So much so that the demand for puppies is so great the breeders are having a hard time keeping up - talk about a stampede of interest in this popular little dog....

Curious about what all the fuss is about?

Well I am talking about the highly sought after Havanese!

Are you looking for a sweet, cute, yet sturdy small lap dog? How about a dog that has a non-shedding fluffy white or black coat? If you are looking for a petite companion dog that is intelligent and great with children then the Havanese breed is for you.

Here is a little about the Havanese.

Did you know that the Havanese originated in Cuba? The Havanese is in the Bichon variety of dogs and has relations to the Maltese, Poodle, and Bichon Frise. The Havanese is the national dog of Cuba. Wow - what an exciting honor to bestow upon a dog! This recognition demonstrates the universal admiration and appreciation for the Havanese breed.

Did you know that the Havanese is a small dog, but is an accomplished performer? The Havanese dog is clever, obedient, and skilled at performing tricks. The Cuban social elite have regarded the Havanese breed as a top dog for hundreds of years.

Did you know that the Havanese breed is relatively new in the United States? The Havanese breed hit America in the 1970's. The 1990's brought a surge in popularity and the Havanese is quickly becoming the ""It"" dog of the 21st century.

Its temperament, personality and non-shedding coat have made this little dog ""The Dog To Have"".

As you continue your search for the RIGHT puppy to get, you really need to consider the Havanese Puppy. If you want more information about this dog, then visit http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com

Fiona

About the author: Fiona Kelly is a passionate Havanese owner that has devoted countless hours sharing her secrets on how to have the perfect, happy, healthy and best behaved Havanese. If you're interested in the Havanese then you can check out her web site at http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com

Friday, January 23, 2009

How To Love Your Dirty Dog and Change Your Life!

Author: Judie Dahl

How To Love Your Dirty Dog (and Change Your Life or at least your attitude!)

City loving executive living in the perfectly clean, perfectly decorated home, driving the very expensive and regularly detailed car suddenly finds dirt, hair and slobber everywhere, completely shifts life style and falls in love with all of it. Does this sound familiar to you? You are not alone!

So how did you end up with your dog? If you are anything like me, all it took was one look from Chan, the beautiful Chow or perhaps in your case the look from Lucy the gorgeous Labradoodle or Buddy the regal Boxer.

I met my boy Chan a few days after he had lost his life-long doggie pal Kaiya. He was miserable. He wouldn't eat, just laid around. What else do you do, but help him through his grief? We fell in love.

Bless his heart, at six years old he was as neat and tidy as I am. He wasn't big on beaches or mud puddles, didn't mind having his feet wiped, and thanks be to heaven, never slobbered. Another clean freak!

When my Channie moved on to doggie heaven at 14 years of age, I realized how much I had grown to love the ""doggie"" lifestyle.

Two months later, I was still missing my canine pal, and generally feeling miserable.

The ad in the newspaper read: Blue Chow puppies. What's that? Perhaps I should ""take a look."" Just look. Honest.

How could you resist this little grey ball of fur? Wagging so hard her entire bottom was in action and piddling everywhere out of excitement. They just have a way of steeling your heart.

Driving away with her on my lap, like most of us would, I wondered ""what the heck I have I done?"" She looked up, gave me a little lick, and all was well in my world.

However, all dogs are not created equal. Unlike my boy Chan, my girl Keisha was no clean freak. Playing in the ocean, digging in the sand, and hanging out in mud puddles, were a bad combination for my car seat.

How do you cope with the dirty paws on your carpet or the slobber and sand on the car upholstery?

The mess in my car was enough to motivate me to start a new business. There had to be others like me; dog lovers who also love a clean car and house. My company, Practical Pet makes dog car seat covers that actually work. Other products coming on line soon include non toxic, bio degradable odor discs, cleaning fluids and other ""Practical"" products for pet owners.

So, all's well that ends well. We create lives around these precious ones that allow us to live life more fully. Like you, often much to our surprise new careers, homes and attitudes emerge for us dog lovers. Who knew what you were in for!

I love my new life, and with my doggie inspired creative thinking, can once again enjoy my white carpets and clean car seats.

About the author: About the Author Judie Dahl spent most of her life as a career driven Marketing Executive who has lived in Toronto Canada, Amsterdam and the south of France. She now resides in Vancouver, Canada where she enjoys the mountain trails and the ocean beach with her dog. She is now an entrepreneur whose business ""Practical Pet"" was a result of wanting a less stressful and therefore more enjoyable relationship with her dog.

Thursday, January 22, 2009

Pet finder for dog lovers

Author: Ameelie Mag

Julie is one of the many dog lovers in USA. She was passionate about offering only the best to her dog pet proving her friendship every day just like dog lovers do. Her life changed when her dog died. She got very depressed and her family wanted to make her feel better. They are dog lovers also and, to prove their support, they researched the Internet and found out about a community of dog lovers and about the pet finder. The pet finder was the next best thing for Julie.

The pet finder is a database for online users that want to provide homes for pets in need. Julie checked out this pet finder and discovered forums and full libraries of articles written about and for dog lovers. She discussed different issues with dog lovers about the pet finder. She found out about shelters and organizations preoccupied with dog adoptions. She started to investigate and research the institutions that the pet finder offered information about.

While her primary intentions were to find a dog for herself and adopt it, she became involved with rescue organizations that provide education and support services. She wanted to do more than simple dog lovers do. She volunteered to help homeless animals everywhere, to involve in programs of rehabilitation of abused animals. Continuing to use the pet finder she sustained the efforts of many volunteers and found out how many dog lovers struggle to help animals and people seeking a pet. However she did not forget about her own wish to have a new pet: dog lovers will always be dog lovers.

Having collaborative relationships with national organizations, the pet finder assisted Julie in finding the perfect dog friend she was looking for. She searched the pet finder database and used options to view species, breeds, locations and pictures in order to find herself a compatible pet. Regional and national searching was done and she even posted information about herself to be viewed by the people that took care until then of her present dog. Pet finder helped her and the homeless dog by uniting them.

Dog lovers everywhere struggle with the hope of helping stray and surrendered animals. Julie joined their fight against mistreatment and enhanced the number of pet finder volunteers. She did not just stood bye to watch others deal with the problems of dog lovers. Helping pet finder she helped herself and struggled to make a better world for all animals.

Resource box: All dog lovers can visit http://www.mustlovepets.com to meet other persons that share the same love for pets.

About the author: Ameelie Mag is an internet writer for http://www.mustlovepets.com

Wednesday, January 21, 2009

Mealtime is the Perfect Time -- for Dog Training, That Is

Author: O'Neal Hendrix

Eating is one of the most primal activities for dogs. They love it , and they have respect for whoever gives them food (the leader in the pack). You can use your ""power"" of being pack leader to enhance your dog training efforts -- every day.

The following suggestions will help you establish your role as pack leader and reinforce dog obedience, deferment to your leadership, dog training techniques, and overall attitude and disposition (yours and your dogs).

1. CONSISTENCY

A good habit to have in feeding your dog is consistency. Dogs love routine and food is a very important subject to them.

For example, feed your dog at approximately the same time(s) each day (some modification is fine for weekly schedule changes.) If feeding two times a day, pick two windows of time that you can be consistent with, for example, between 7:00 and 8:00 am and then again between 5:00 and 6:00 pm.

Having a window of time helps prevent anxiety in a dog expecting to be fed at a specific time each day (5:15 pm -- yes, dogs can zero in on a specific time of day like 5:15).

This is a very real concern for dogs and some dogs can fall apart emotionally and physically if they are expecting food at that time and don't get it. Ever hear of the dog that is panting and spastic and throwing up or having diarrhea? This dog is anxious. Setting a window of time and sticking to it will help your dog remain calm. Practice the same routine every day.

2. NO RUNNING BUFFET

A big mistake is to offer up the running buffet, where food is available around the clock. This is actually a pretty common feeding program in many homes because it's simple for the humans -- add food as needed.

So why not do this? Because it leads to an obese, lazy dog who doesn't listen to your commands, respect your leadership position or adhere to rules you've set forth in your dog training.

3. MEALTIME IS DOG TRAINING TIME

Wonderful things happen at mealtime -- for you and Fido. You get the opportunity to have your dog perform (reinforcing all that dog training you've done) for his meal. This could be sit, down, come, place.

So what, you say? Well, this is the easiest way you have of getting your dog's affirmation of you being the leader and reinforcing dog training. If you aren't the leader, guess who is. It will be the demanding, obnoxious dog bossing you around for a meal.

What exactly does it look like? Hold the food bowl in your hand. Your dog may be spastic, jumping, yipping, and pawing at you for the food. This is another dog training opportunity for you -- teaching him to be calmer at mealtimes.

State your command once and wait (good to start with a sit, which is usually the easiest). Your dog sits and the bowl of food goes to the floor with praise for a good sit and a release ""OK"" that they can move to get the food.

When your dog complies with your command, he has just deferred to your leadership in the pack. (When beginning this program, you may need to help your dog with completing his command and praise warmly and then give food.)

Once your dog has the program down, you can introduce other feeders such as spouse, responsible children, etc to gently let your four-footed family member know her position in the pack.

CONCLUSION

By changing your dog's feeding routine, you change so much more. You get to reinforce all the dog training and dog obedience you've worked so hard on -- and it feels effortless. You get increased respect from your dog for providing the important commodity of food and for being a consistent provider. The more you establish yourself as leader of the pack, the more your dog will want to please you and dog training will be a snap.

About the author: O'Neal Hendrix is a premier professional dog trainer in Atlanta, GA. Considered a ""miracle worker"" by clients, vets, groomers, and even other dog trainers, she has helped many human clients create loving and respectful relationships with even the most difficult-to-train dogs. She has a wealth of knowledge about dogs, what works and what doesn't, as seen on her Trainer's Pick Dog Supplies site, http://www.dog-supplies-dog-accessories.com .

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Selecting a New Dog

Author: Jamie Snodgrass

When selecting a new dog to take home there are many things to think about and to take into consideration. For instance, the biggest question to ask yourself is why you want a dog? Do you have children who have been begging you for one, or have you decided you need a dog outside to warn of intruders? Maybe you had one as a child and miss the companionship the dog gave you. For whatever reason, dogs can bring families closer and leave you with a sense of fulfillment-however you should know that not all dogs are good for every situation.

If you are selecting a new dog for your children, think about starting with a puppy. Puppies are more sociable and adaptable, and you will get to train them according to your needs. In addition, there's nothing quite as satisfying as watching your new puppy grow up alongside your kids.

Next, you will need to decide on male or female when selecting your new dog. Remember that males tend to be bigger in stature than females, who stay relatively more petite. Males are also more dominant and aggressive in certain breeds.

Temperament should also be checked when selecting a new dog. To do this, simply hold the dog in your arms and tip him on his back (if size allows). If he struggles consistently, this may mean he will take more patience in training. If he lays there, genuinely calm, you can be rest assured he is mild tempered and will be easy to work with. In addition, clap your hands, or make other loud or sudden movements. A mild tempered dog will look curiously at you, while a shy or nervous dog will be startled or shy away.

It's important to always research the breeds you are looking at when selecting a new dog. Make sure you are going to have time to care for whichever one you choose. Depending on the breed, he may need more exercise, training or special climate. For example, a cocker spaniel will take a lot of grooming time and expense because of his luxurious coat.

Although selecting a new dog may seem like a no-brainer, you need to carefully consider the place that you will purchase your dog from. If dealing with a breeder, be sure that he/or she is respectable and dedicated to the standard of breeding itself, and not just in it for the money.

Some breeders truly care about their dogs, while others simply don't, and that means that the puppy may not be socialized or might have been treated roughly or poorly. If you are going to buy a dog from the pet store, it's a good idea to ask around or make phone calls to other families who have bought from the same pet store.

Whether you are looking for a big dog or small dog for your family, if you include thought and common sense in selecting your new dog, you should be able to find the perfect one for you. Your new dog will offer you a lasting, loving relationship that is sure to be fulfilling for all of you. Click for Dog Care Information

About the author: Writer is the author for many sites including Dog Care and Article Search Online

Monday, January 19, 2009

5 Big Reasons to Crate Train your Dog

Author: Nathalie Lafleur

Are you frustrated with your dog?

Does he chew everything in sight? Does he leave puddles and piles everywhere? Is a car ride with your dog synonym of a nightmare?

If you answered yes to any of these questions, I have a simple solution for you: crate training.

Here are 5 big reasons why you should start crate training your dog:

Reason #1: A Crate Stops Destructive Behaviors

Most dogs are destructive because they don't have anything more interesting to do than chew on everything they can sink their teeth in.

You have to remember that chewing is a natural dog behavior and an excellent way for your dog to burn his excess of energy.

Consequently, your job is not to stop your dog from chewing, but to prevent him from chewing on the wrong things, like chair legs, shoes, socks, etc.

By providing safe chew toys to your dog in his crate, you accomplish two things: you make the crate a wonderful place to be in and you teach him what are the acceptable chew toys in the house.

By the way, my favorite chew toys are the ones I can fill with cream cheese or peanut butter. They keep my dogs busy for a while and my dogs just go crazy for them.

Reason #2: A Crate Makes Housebreaking Easier

A crate will help your dog to control his sphincters. In other words, your dog will learn to ""hold it"" instead of eliminating whenever he needs to.

Dogs are den animals. What I mean by that is that they like to have their own quiet place and they'll do everything they can to keep it clean.

That's why crate training a puppy drastically speeds up the housebreaking process. Your dog won't want to soil his crate and thus will gain control over his sphincters.

However, this doesn't mean that you can leave your dog in a crate for 10 hours in a row! Puppies need to go out frequently to eliminate.

If you leave your dog in his crate for too long and he ends up eliminating in the crate, you will lose the best tool at your disposal to housebreak him properly.

Reason #3: A Crate Makes Car Rides Safer

My heart stops every time I see a dog with his head out of a window or in the back of a truck.

This is a very dangerous practice since a rock, a bee, a cigarette butt, etc. can hit your dog.

Another behavior that I see very often is the dog that constantly jumps back and forth from one seat to the next or sits on the driver's lap.

Driving requires all our attention and your dog shouldn't be an additional distraction.

A crate-trained dog will rest in his crate during a car drive and make the trip for you and him safer.

Reason #4: A Crate Keeps Your Dog Safe from Household Hazards

If you let your dog roams freely in the house unsupervised, you are really asking for trouble and you unnecessarily put your dog in danger.

A house contains hundreds of potentially lethal objects for your dog. Let me give you some examples:

Do you know that chocolate and onions can make your dog very sick and if ingested in great quantity can kill your dog?

Garbage is also dangerous to your dog since he can choke on chicken bones, cut himself on broken glass, etc.

Also, lots of houseplants are poisonous for your dog, like Poinsettia, Aloe, and Peace Lily to name a few.

As you can see, crate training your dog will bring you peace of mind since your dog will be out of danger when you're not around to supervise him.

Reason #5: A Crate Speeds Up Your Dog's Recovery

If you have to leave your dog at the vet for a couple of nights, your dog will recover much faster because he will be used to sleeping in a crate.

Consequently, if your dog has never been in a crate before and you add that stress to the one of being in a new place, being manipulated by strangers and hearing other unfamiliar dogs and cats around, the whole experience will be unduly stressful for your dog.

By simply crate training your dog, you give him the tools to cope with any situation.

Do yourself and your dog a favor and start crate training him today!

About the author: Nathalie Lafleur is a dog passionate who wants to educate as many dog owners as she can on how to care and raise a well-behaved dog. She's the author of two books and many articles on dog training. To learn how a crate can make your life with your dog much more peaceful, visit: www.crate-training.com

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Shih Tzu - A Little Dog With A Big Story To Tell

Author: Connie Limon

Few dog breeds have such a well-documented and exciting history as the Shih Tzu. The Shih Tzu's entire history is steeped in legends, myths and mystery. However, we have fossil records that tell us the brachycephalic (short-skulled, short-nosed, flat-faced) dog breeds, which include the Shih Tzu, Pug, and Pekingese originated in Central Asia. In addition, we also have written history and legends to help us sort of piece together the last 3,000 plus years of the Shih Tzu's history. There are meticulously maintained Shih Tzu breeding records and pedigrees for more than 50 years as well.

Many historians believe the Asian dog breeds originated in Tibet and reached China as early as 1,400 years ago. The Chinese traded silk in exchange for pet dogs along the Great Wall of China. The Dalai Lamas also gave ""holy dogs"" to the Chinese imperial courts as diplomatic gifts and tributes during the Manchu dynasty (1644-1911). In literature the Shih Tzu is mentioned by name in the late fourteenth century.

In China breeding and raising Shih Tzu were the responsibility of the eunuchs of the imperial court. Eunuchs who produced the best dogs were rewarded with gifts. Competition between the eunuchs to produce and raise the most attractive Shih Tzu was fierce. The best Shih Tzu specimens were painted in the imperial dog books and tapestries.

The Shih Tzu was considered to bring good luck. These regal little Shih Tzu followed on the heels of emperors and empresses. If you have ever owned a Shih Tzu, you will find one of their favorite activities is following around after you and right on the heels of your feet is where they try to ride. Shih Tzu think they should make each and every step you make. I have one Shih Tzu at the present time, Duke, by name, who tries to walk with me in between my feet. It is quite amusing.

It was against the law to sell any of the royal dogs in China during the Manchu dynasty. The punishment was death.

As war dominated the political picture in Asia the ""Lion Dogs"" was added to the list of tragic casualties. By 1884 the American Kennel Club was founded and was registering thousands of dogs. There were no Shih Tzu among them.

In 1908 the thirteenth Dalai Lama gave the Empress Dowager of China some Shih Tzu-type dogs. The Empress fell passionately in love with these little dogs. She instructed the court eunuchs to maintain a breeding program for many years. Although the Empress Dowager was noted to be a cruel dictator she had a soft spot in her heart for the little Shih Tzu. The Empress Dowager was the person who most influenced the development of the Shih Tzu. At her death in 1908, some of the imperial palace Shih Tzu were sold to wealthy individuals or given as gifts to foreign dignitaries an visitors.

It is questionable as to how many of these survived as it has been noted some of the eunuchs fed the Imperial Palace Shih Tzu glass to keep them from surviving. They were so possessive of their Imperial Palace bloodlines, this was the only way they could think of to keep others from gaining access to their secrets.

The Shih Tzu, a little dog with a big story to tell has much, much more to say.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Dog Training Tips: Things I've Learned About Agility Dog Training

Author: Melissa Buhmeyer

I've owned many dogs, throughout my life, but have never known exactly how to train them properly. I based my training on punishment and just couldn't figure out why that didn't work that well. But, almost two years ago, I started training my Papillon for agility competition. She was extremely high-drive and I knew she'd really love it. So, I found a good agility training school and off we went. We've been competing, very successfully, for almost a year now and, looking back, I learned so many important things about dog training!

First of all, most trainers require that dogs have completed at least a basic obedience class before proceeding to agility training. This is critical to agility training and, in my opinion, every dog and handler could benefit from a basic obedience class. I learned that I have a food-motivated dog and that she will work her heart out for highly prized treats, not for punishment! There are skills you and your dog will learn, through an obedience class, such as recalls, sit/stays, down/stays, and walking nicely on a leash. Each of these skills is something you will need every time you compete, not to mention day-to-day life with your dog.

The pace of your training will always be set by your dog. Each dog learns at a different speed and, what comes easily for one dog, may not come easily for another. So, be very patient while training your dog any skill. Make it a game. Let your dog take as much time as it needs, without getting impatient or frustrated, to figure out what behavior you want from it.

All tasks must be broken down into small pieces, whether the task is a simple sit, the beginnings of obstacle training, or more complex tricks or agility sequences. If you break the task down to something small, then mark/reward and repeat, several times before making the task larger, you will have success without stressing the dog out. For example, when training an agility tunnel, you scrunch it up to its smallest form. Have someone place your dog at the entrance while you sit on the ground at the exit, with a treat, and call your dog. As soon as the dog comes through that little piece of a tunnel, you mark/reward. Slowly begin expanding the tunnel using the same technique. In just a few minutes, you'll have your dog going through however long a tunnel you need.

For agility training, once the dog begins obstacle training, there is never a wrong answer. Dogs get confused, and may shut down, if they start being told they're doing the wrong thing, so keep the training light and never scold for doing the incorrect thing. If the dog doesn't do what you want it to, you simply do not mark/reward for that action. You just ask again and, the minute you get the correct response, mark/reward and make a huge deal of it. That will make your dog more anxious to give you that same answer again. As you start competing, you might want to use a particular word to indicate the incorrect response, such as ""uh oh,"" or ""oops,"" but not with a scolding tone. This will indicate that the dog will be asked to try again but everything is fine between the two of you.

Lastly, always keep the training fun for both you and your dog. Even when you start competing, or have been competing for a long time, this is critical. If you start getting caught up in the competition and title-winning, you might forget why you started agility to begin with: because it's fun! When the game stops being fun, your dog won't enjoy it anymore and neither will you. Agility is a wonderful sport and will forever secure the relationship between you and your dog. Run fast, run clean, and, above all, have fun!

About the author: Melissa Buhmeyer has been involved in dog agility training for two years and is co-founder of http://www.dogtraining- school.com/ , a dog training school resource site for aspiring and professional dog trainers.

Friday, January 16, 2009

Top 4 Most Overlooked Dog Showing Tips

Author: Jon Weaver

Along with the two main mistakes a novice exhibitor makes, that of holding the show lead in two hands instead of one, and of taking tiny little mincing steps when gaiting his dog, there are many small things, not exactly mistakes, which should be pointed out in order to improve handling. These are not in any particular order of importance, for when it comes right down to fine points, they are all important.

1. When showing your dog, use a firm hand -- firm but not rough. The rough handling, if you have a hard-headed dog, should be done at home during the training period, certainly not in the show ring. Occasionally it may be necessary to reprimand a dog in the ring if he seems to have forgotten all his training, but when it is necessary, you should speak harshly to him, perhaps using a few light taps where they will do the most good. The gasp that goes up around the ringside whenever a dog is loudly spanked in the ring, even though the dog is not hurt, will convince you that I am correct.

It is necessary that you acquire a firm hand so that the dog knows what you expect of him. A wishy-washy touch with a dog is as bad as a wishy-washy handshake. The limp handshake might lose you an expected friend and a too-light touch with a dog might lose you an expected ribbon.

2. Don't get down on both knees when you pose your dog. In order to get out of this position you must shift all your weight to one knee while you are bringing the other foot into position to stand on it. Frequently you lose your balance getting out of this position. I will admit that sitting on your heels during a large class is better than having nothing to sit on, but in the long run you will find the position has more drawbacks than it has comfort.

In showing a great many breeds you will be standing upright all of the time, but if you must get down lower, try the squat, or try placing only one knee on the ground and keep the other leg bent. Whichever you choose, keep your back as straight as possible. Either of these two positions allows you to get on your feet quickly and gracefully without the danger of losing your balance.

3. When you are in the show ring, don't waste your time looking aimlessly around. While waiting for the class to begin, glance at your dog frequently to be sure he has not assumed a grotesque pose or that he is not getting into some mischief with another dog while you are staring into space.

While the dog is in a show pose, check on him frequently to be sure he has not stepped into a less attractive stance. If he is maintaining the correct pose, don't fuss with him. Unless there is something that needs correcting, don't spoil the picture your dog is making by nervous fussing with him which will accomplish nothing.

4. If you are showing your dog at a summer show out in the broiling hot sun and you are entered in a very large class which must, of necessity, take the judge a long time to do, here is a little tip. For you, as the handler, there is no way out of it, but you could try to cast a shadow with your body to give your dog a little comfort while waiting for the judge.

If it is a very large class, don't pose your dog until the judge is just two or three dogs away from yours. Your dog will be just a little less tired of it all when the judge gets to him, and these little things count quite a lot in hot competition.

These four tips come from years of personal experience, and even professional dog handlers often overlook them. Just remember these easy pieces of advice, and your showing will go smoother but avoiding small annoyances, and allow you to focus your attention on the bigger issues.

About the author: FREE information and secrets on how to have the Champion at dog shows -- Plus articles on how to show a dog yourself! It's FREE! Click here: www.DogShowingSecrets.com

Thursday, January 15, 2009

Dog History: The Pit Bull Terrier

Author: Tim Amherst

Most modern Pit Bulls are believed to be descended from European bull dogs and different breeds of mastiffs that were once used in farm work. The mastiffs were known for their strength and power, so they were primarily used to help farmers with their bulls when it was time to bring them in from the fields.

The mastiff became known as the bulldog. The dog's main purpose was to protect the farmer from being gored by an enraged bull. The dog usually accomplished this task by biting onto the bull and hanging on until the bull relented. Since these dogs were used for protection from angry bulls, they had to have tremendous strength in their jaws and bodies. They also had to be stubborn enough to hang onto a stampeding bull, no matter what the bull did to them, to protect the farmer they worked for.

As time passed, these dogs started being used in bull and bear baiting. During this time it is believed some bulldogs were also bred with terriers to help make them better suited for these sports. By mixing with the terrier breed, the dogs were smaller and a great deal more agile than the regular bulldog. They also had more muscular bodies, which helped to enhance their damage producing ability. These sports were most popular in England around the early nineteenth century. In the year 1835, English Parliament banned the sports of bull and bear baiting, stating that it was much too cruel to the animals involved. The sport lost popularity, and eventually died completely out after a few years.

Dog fighting soon took the place of the previously banned bull and bear baiting sports. Breeders began trying to produce dogs that were geared to be excellent fighters. They tried to enhance the dog's agility, strength, and musculature to make them more formidable opponents. Breeders also tried to breed the most intelligent dogs, so they would be less likely to make mistakes in fighting, and also so they would only be aggressive toward other dogs, not humans they may encounter. One of the rules of dog fighting was that the owner of the dog had to be able to enter the ring during a fight, pick his dog up, and take it completely out of the fighting ring without the dog biting him. If the dog bit the owner during this time, the dog was immediately killed.

Also in the 1800's Pit Bulls started becoming popular pets, not just for dog fighting and farming. The dog became a mascot during World War 1 and could be seen on many war posters, which helped to increase its popularity. They were popular because of their high intelligence and devotion to their masters. In the early 1900's pit bulls began being used in movies as well.

The Pit Bull is a dog with a very detailed history, and is still quite popular today. The breed does receive a lot of negative criticism, but with the right owners, still make terrific pets.

About the author: To learn all about raising an American Pit Bull Terrier and training Pit Bulls , visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Do You Want A Show Dog Or Cute Companion Shih Tzu?

Author: Connie Limon

Shih Tzu belong to people. They do not belong exclusively to the show dog world. Shih Tzu were bred for centuries to be affectionate companions for people and they certainly excel and do a fantastic job at doing just that. All Shih Tzu are by their very nature, constant close companions for their owners.

A show dog must conform to certain breed standards, such as height, weight, and conformation as well as temperament. A companion Shih Tzu may have minor imperfections when compared to the AKC standards for a show dog Shih Tzu, but be wonderful in all other respects. Many times the differences between a top show dog who has met all the AKC standard requirements for a show dog and a companion dog are not readily apparent to most people. Flaws that are slight may only be detected by the trained eye of a show dog breeder or a show judge. Being a companion dog, regardless of small size, large size, or in between size, in no way diminishes a Shih Tzu's value as a loving member of the family. Although Shih Tzu show dogs are bred mainly for their good looks, the real purpose of a Shih Tzu is to be an an affectionate companion for people. Shih Tzus were bred to be companion animals centuries before dog shows and any kind of kennel club ever existed.

If you decide you want a show dog, be prepared to pay more for it than you would pay for a pet-quality companion. Also remember that just because the parents are champion show dogs, there is no guarantee the puppy will turn out to be a champion too. Very young puppies are difficult to evaluate their exact worth as a show dog. A show dog breeder will have to keep that puppy around 3 to 6 months to be able to evaluate accurately whether or not that particular puppy is show dog material. If you decide you want a show quality Shih Tzu be prepared to purchase an older than 8 weeks old Shih Tzu puppy. And the best advice would be to purchase an adult Shih Tzu that already has been successful in the show ring. Even the most beautiful and what seems to be the most correct 8 week old Shih Tzu puppy can change as it grows up and may never reach the show potential you hoped for or was true of its parents and ancestors. If you purchase a show dog ""prospect,"" you are ""guessing"" that the Shih Tzu will attain a the attributes necessary to meet the standards of a Shih Tzu show dog. A lot of changes can take place between puppyhood and adulthood. When you buy an adult show dog Shih Tzu you know exactly what you are getting.

Full AKC registration allows for participation in AKC competitions and events and the ability to register future offspring of the Shih Tzu with the AKC. Most breeders charge anywhere from $200 to $500 more for a full AKC registration.

Limited AKC registration does not allow breeding and limits AKC competitions. Usually a limited AKC registration requires spaying or neutering your Shih Tzu by the age of 6 months. A limited AKC registration is also sometimes called a ""pet registration."" It is usually anywhere from $200 to $500 cheaper to purchase a Shih Tzu puppy with a limited AKC registration.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Shih Tzu Show Dog Judging For Coat Texture And Proper Handling

Author: Connie Limon

Proper coat texture of your show dog Shih Tzu will be checked during the show dog judge's examination. Proper coat texture of a show dog Shih Tzu should be lustrous. A lustrous Shih Tzu show dog coat is achieved by good nutrition, and high quality grooming aids. Good coats are also passed down through lines of selectively breeding Shih Tzu with good coats. With the improvement in dog nutrition and grooming aids today, however, there is really no excuse for a show dog Shih Tzu not to have a proper coat texture. If you start with inherited proper coat texture and provide your Shih Tzu with high quality nutrition, the coat can further be enhanced by high quality grooming aids to present the ultimate in beauty by the time your Shih Tzu enters the show ring. One word of warning, however, be sure not to enter the ring with evidence of powder or chalk, or too much spray, you will likely put yourself out of the ring.

When the show dog judge is finished going over the Shih Tzu completely he might step away from the Shih Tzu and give it a final over-all side view look. This side view look helps a Shih Tzu show dog judge keep a complete picture in his mind that he will compare with the next Shih Tzu that is put up on the table.

If you are handling your Shih Tzu yourself this last look is highly important. You should remember to keep your Shih Tzu on its toes. The last thing you want is for the judge to take that last look and find your Shih Tzu sitting or in some other forbidden activity. Do not be constantly putting each single hair in place or placing your Shih Tzu's feet in the right position. This would be seen as over-handling. If your Shih Tzu is not able to stand on its own, look alive and ready for the next command he is not trained and ready for the show ring. Training is done outside of the ring. Performance is required at the show.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Monday, January 12, 2009

What Should Be in Your Puppy Food and Dog Food?

Author: Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

How you should be feeding your puppy is perhaps one of the first concerns of the new puppy owner. After all, you want the little guy to grow up big and strong, or at least as big as he will grow. So just how will this puppy feeding be carried out?

First off, realize that your puppy is not just a miniature version of an adult dog. He has his own nutritional requirements that go into puppy feeding. Pound for pound a puppy needs about twice the nutrition of the adult dog. What the requirements are for feeding an adult dog varies with breed, size, activity level, etc.

And although you may have thought dogs were carnivores, understand that they are really omnivores just like us. This means they can and will eat more than just meat. In fact to have a balanced diet, they require more than just meat. So, first off, don't begin your puppy feeding with just meat. (Have I repeated that enough?)

Dogs, like humans to some extent, require protein, fat, minerals and vitamins. Studies have shown that dogs seem to have no need for carbohydrates although many prepared dog foods and puppy foods may be up to 50% or more carbohydrates. This is why it is very important to read puppy food and dog food labels.

When feeding puppy, realize he usually requires about 28 - 30% protein in his diet. Protein can, and should, come from more sources than just meat. Include milk, eggs and cheese along with meat when feeding your puppy.

When considering feeding fat to your dog, the amount you feed varies by the requirements of the dog. An inactive dog may only need 5% fat. A very active working dog may need up to 20% fat. Going with puppies needing generally twice what adults need, you can see you need quite a bit of fat when feeding your puppy but it does vary. Best thing to do when adding fat to your puppy food is to keep an eye on your puppy. Don't let him start getting fat.

Just like with humans, too many carbohydrates can be bad for your puppy. Usually carbs are used to bulk up a prepared dog food with 50% or more of the food coming from inexpensive carbohydrate, and especially starchy, sources. This is not necessary for dogs and studies have found that dogs do not need carbs as an essential part of their diets.

Reading puppy and dog food labels you may find carbohydrate sources such as grains, potatoes, rice, milk and even sugar in some form. As these usually have been cooked, a dog can digest them somewhat. Give a dog a raw potato or whole grains and you will find a dog that will not be able to handle these. In other words, you will have a dog with an upset digestive system. Some uncooked starches cause diarrhea and some, such as whole grains, pass right through untouched by his digestive system. Not a good thing when puppy feeding.

So read your dog food labels and make sure the puppy food or dog food you buy has these elements within it. Don't buy anything with too much carbohydates in it as dogs just don't need it. But do buy puppy food and dog food with protein sources, fat and vitamins and minerals. Some green vegetables in the mix won't hurt at all.

copyright 2005. Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

About the author: Visit our Puppy Training website at http://ezpuppytraining.com/ for a free course on ""Welcoming Your New Puppy Home and Puppy Training"". Find more puppy training and care tips at our website ezpuppytraining.com.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Animal Husbandry and Other Unnatural Acts: A Career in Dog Training

Author: Albert Medinas

Do you like dogs? Do they like you back?

Well, in that case, maybe YOU have what it takes to make it in the ruff and kibble world of canine coaching. Maybe. But before you start barking up this career tree, it might be beneficial to get a little information first. The exiting world of dog training covers several areas of expertise, so consider which dog track you want to take.

So, like, what do I need to know? Isn't it just ""Sit, Heel, Stay""?

I am so glad you asked. Dog training encompasses much more than simple submission commands. Yes, a career in dog training can and does involve obedience training, but it can also delve much deeper. For instance, you could become an Animal Behaviorist, or a Behavioral Consultant. These professionals burrow into Rover's psyche, working to dig up the long buried bones of his past. Rather than flea the past, they use it to see what makes him tick (Ooh, that one even made ME groan).

You mean I have to be a dog shrink?

Many in the dog-training field, especially Behaviorists, study not only veterinary science, but also psychology. So, in a way, you kind of become a ""dog shrink"" as you so eloquently put it. But this training helps with more than just the dog. Don't forget, the dogs you will be training generally have owners, and some dog owners don't realize that they may be the cause of the behavioral issues exhibited by their puppy pals (think of the mom of that snotty, screaming kid in the checkout line at grocery store who thinks she's a great parent), and that they need to learn how to interact more effectively with their pets. It's up to a trained dog specialist to uncover and rectify this.

So how much schooling up am I gonna need before I begin my career in dog training?

Many experts in the field of dog training will tell you it takes three to five years of serious, intensive study and hands-on dog training and handling to even become a good novice trainer. Becoming an experienced Master Dog Trainer takes many years of working with the animals, gaining valuable field (or park) experience. You will most likely even pay your dues with a few nips here and there (bites, not nerve-settling sips of schnapps). It's all part of the price - and the leash you can do, if you are serious about a career in dog training.

So, are there like, dog trainer colleges?

There are indeed schools that offer courses in canine training. The program lengths and costs vary from school to school, depending upon the type of study you wish to pursue. There are even online and home study courses (I am familiar with one that charges $995 for a home study video package), but anyone who seriously wants to work with dogs should look for a school with actual animals that you can touch. Sniff around and dig up a school that fits your situation.

The Animal Behavioral College (ABC, get it?) charges about $3000 for its hands-on program to become a Certified Dog Trainer, which takes around six months to complete. And there are some accredited universities and colleges that proffer animal behavior programs. These are not necessarily dog-specific, but nevertheless will assist you in beginning your career in dog training. Cornell University in Ithaca, NY; Guelph University in Ontario, Canada; and Tufts University in Boston, MA are three such universities. Standard college tuition would apply at these schools, but they might throw you a bone and let you apply for financial aid. Beg...beg...good boy!

And then I can become employed as a dog trainer and watch the scratch (money, not the flesh wound) roll in?

No.

Why not?

Good dog trainers - and by that you can read ""employed"" dog trainers - enter their careers in dog training because of their love of dogs. They work for the intrinsic pleasure of helping man's best friend, not for the money, power, or glory often associated with dog training. Initially, the novice dog trainer may even begin his career by working for a more experienced trainer as his assistant, trainee, or lackey. The pay grade for such positions is, of course, Lhasa Apso-sized - assuming you can find an experience dog trainer who will take you under his paw. If not, when was the last time you read a classified ad seeking a dog trainer?

The way many dog trainers collar a career in dog training is to become self-employed. Hang a shingle on the front door. This has been suggested by the American Dog Trainers Network, which states that you can have a part time career where, nationally, trainers earn an average of $20/hour. Not a bad living. But Uncle Sam is always snapping at the heels of the ambitious with his own statistical snarls and growls. The Occupational Outlook Handbook, put out by the U.S. Department of Labor, states that the median hourly earnings of non-farm animal caretakers were $8.21 in 2002 (the most recent year they have numbers for).

So what should I do? I love them pups!

The bottom line is that a career in dog training is something you do because you have a desire, passion, or drive to work with dogs, not because it's a quick, easy, lucrative career option. As with most any career choice, there is effort involved. Shed your fears (regular brushing helps), put on your shiny coat, and get out there and claw your way to your career in dog training. Or you can just sit...stay...roll over. Good dog.

About the author: Albert Medinas has developed and maintains the website Dog Training Resources , which answers the most common questions people have about Dog Training . Please visit us at http://www.dogtrainingresources.net today.

Saturday, January 10, 2009

An introduction to caring for your Dog

Author: Paul Duxbury

A dog will require love, care, attention and a commitment to look after them during their life which could be 10-15 years or hopefully longer. The commitment required includes not only routine feeding, care and time spent with your dog but also the provision of veterinary treatment if the dog becomes ill. The following basic steps will get you off to a good start and ensure that your dog is a happy, healthy pooch!

Brushing your Dog's teeth

First off you need to pick an appropriate pet toothbrush. Save yourself time by not buying a child's toothbrush which is usually too hard for dogs. The ideal dog toothbrush will have a long handle, an angled head to better fit their mouth and extra soft bristles. Another option to consider is the finger toothbrush that fits over the tip of your finger.

Having found the toothbrush that suits you and your dog you next need to select an appropriate toothpaste. The best dog toothpastes contain enzymes that help control plaque. Try to avoid toothpastes with baking soda, detergents, or salt sometimes found in human pastes. Fluoride may be incorporated to help control bacteria. Rather than placing the paste on top of the brush try to place it between the bristles. This allows the paste to spend the most time next to the teeth.

So having purchased your toothbrush and your toothpaste you are now probably thinking ""so exactly how do I do this!"" Well don't worry it's not as frightening or as difficult as you might be thinking! All we need to do is to get the brush with paste into your dog's mouth and all the teeth brushed. Easier said than done you are probably thinking as you anticipate calling your friendly pooch over to have his teeth cleaned! Well actually yes it is easier than you think if you adopt the right approach!

Most dogs accept brushing if they are approached in a gentle manner. If you can start when they are young, it's quite easy, but even older pets will accept the process. Start slowly, you can use a washcloth or piece of gauze to wipe the teeth, front and back in the same manner you will eventually be using the toothbrush. Do this twice daily for about two weeks and your dog should be familiar with the approach. Then take the pet toothbrush, soak it in warm water and start brushing daily for several days. When your dog accepts this brushing, add the pet toothpaste.

Dangerous Toys

Most dogs love to play and hours of enjoyment can be had by all concerned if that play is done in a sensible way and avoids what I will term ""Dangerous Toys. ""Sticks and bones can splinter and cause choking or vomiting or they can perforate the mouth, throat or intestine. Hard bones can easily damage teeth. Instead, use hard, non-splintering chew toys to play fetch or to allow your pet to gnaw. A chewing pet can shred soft, latex toys. If the toy includes a squeaking mechanism, the squeaker can be easily swallowed or cause choking. Towels, socks, underwear and other similar clothing or materials can be swallowed by a pet, causing intestinal obstruction. Some dogs like to chew on or eat rocks-bad idea! Rocks can cause broken teeth and serious intestinal obstruction if swallowed. Be careful if you offer your pet rawhides, as these can also cause intestinal obstruction if swallowed, and some are preserved with arsenic, which is toxic to pets. Be aware of sharp objects that can cut skin, feet, eyes or ears.

Exercising Your Dog

Now every dog needs to be exercised and that again can be something that brings a great deal of enjoyment to both you and your little (or not so little!) friend. There are a few basic considerations when exercising your Dog. Whenever you are near a road, or wherever your dog is likely to cause a nuisance if he runs free, you should keep him on a lead. Both you and your dog will be much happier if he's well trained. Remember that not everyone is as fond of dogs as you are and you must respect their feelings. Keep your dog under control at all times. Part of your walk should take your dog over hard ground, as this will help to keep his nails short.

Don't make the mistake of over-exercising your dog if he's still growing, as his bones aren't yet strong enough to cope with the extra stress this puts on him. Little and often is the rule until your dog grows to full strength. Remember that large breeds mature later than small breeds. Ask the breeder or your vet for their advice.

Regular and varied walks are not just essential to keep your dog fit. They also give him the chance to explore and to experience new stimuli, including meeting other dogs. This will help him develop into a contented and well-adjusted dog, and avoid developing problem behavior. Make sure you supervise your dog's exercise. Do not allow him to stray and never put him outside for the day to fend for him while you're gone.

Keep Your Pet Happy and Healthy

Once you've brought home your new pet, you'll want to have a long and happy life together. Here are some ways to make that happen. Eating well and getting enough exercise are as important for dogs as they are for you and I. Unfortunately, too often dogs pick up the same bad habits, and health problems, as people do. Diabetes, heart disease, and obesity related arthritis are problems that are often preventable with a good diet and regular exercise. A high quality dry dog food is a good centerpiece for a healthy diet. If your dog is active enough to burn the calories, most dogs love canned food. It can be mixed with dry food or put out separately as a treat. Some people like to leave food out all the time so that their pets can nibble when hungry while others prefer to have regular feeding times. Either way, make sure that dog always has access to clean drinking water.

If you look after him you will have a great life together!

About the author: Paul Duxbury owns http://www.my-dog.co.uk a leading sources of free information and advice for all dog owners as well as http://www.dog-lover.co.uk

Friday, January 09, 2009

An Overview Of Dog Shows

Author: Connie Limon

Puppy classes are for Shih Tzu nine months of age and over but under twelve months. The Shih Tzu must be whelped in the U.S.A.

The Novice class is for Shih Tzu six months of age and over. The Shih Tzu must be whelped in the U.S.A. or Canada and havenot prior to the closing entries won three first prizes in the Novice Class, a first prize in Bred-by-Exhibitor, American-Bred or Open Class, nor one or more points toward a championship title.

The Bred-By-Exhibitor Class is for Shih Tzu whleped in the U.S.A. which are six months of age and over, not champions and who ar owned wholly or in part by the person or the spouse of the person who was the breeder or one of the breeders of record. Shih Tzu entered into this class musdt be handled by an owner or by a member of the immediate family of an owner.

The American-Bred class is for all Shih Tzu except champions six months of age or over, whelped in the U.S.A. by reason of a mating that took place in the U.S.A.

The Open class is for any Shih Tzu six months of age or over, except in a member specialty club show held for only American-Bred Shih Tzu in which case the class is for American-Bred Shih Tzu only.

Winners Dog and Winners Bitch: After the above classes have been judged, the first place winning Shih Tzu are required to compete in the ring. The male Shih Tzu judged ""Winners Dog"" is awared the points toward his championship title.

Reserve Winners are selected immediately after the Winners dog. In case of a disqualification of a win by the AKC, the Reserve Dog (male Shih Tzu) movers up to Winners and receives the points. After the male Shih Tzu classes are judged, the bitch Shih Tzu classes are called.

Best of Breed or Best of Variety Competition is limited to Champions of Record or Shih Tzu dogs (with newly acquired points, for a 90-day period prior to AKC confirmation) which have completed championship requirements, and the Winners Dog Shih Tzu and Winners Bitch Shih Tzu (or the dog award Winners if only one Winners prize has been awarded), together with any undefeated dogs which have been shown only in non-regular classes; all compete for Best of Breed or Best of Variety (if the bred is divided by size, color, texture or length of coat hair, etc.).

If your Shih Tzu wins his class, the rule states: You are required to enter classes for Winners, Best of Breed and Best of Winners (no additional entry fees).

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Thursday, January 08, 2009

The Tibetan Lion Dog (Shih Tzu)

Author: Connie Limon

The earliest ""Lion Dog"" in Tibet had long hair, were small in size and similar to the Maltese in type. As Tibet and China exchanged traditions and beliefs of culture and religion, the exchange of dogs became a two-way affair as well. The Chinese definitely interbred their small dogs, which were of many varieties, with the Tibetans with long hair, and the people of Tibet no doubt interbred their small dog with those from the Chinese people.

The outcome of this interbreeding eventually became the Shih Tzu. The Chinese called the Shih Tzu ""Tibetan Lion Dog."" The Apso was also involved with the interbreeding practices. The Tibetans called the Apso, ""ApsoSeng Kyi"" or ""Apso Lion Dog.""

The Chinese tried to retain the characteristics they admired, which was the unnaturally short face and broad head, the wide barrel-like chest and the low-to-the-ground look.

The Tibetans, however, could not hold these same characteristics because of the climate and environment of their land. Tibet is an area of high altitudes. The very short face with restricted nasal development (which incidentally gives many Shih Tzu lovers a great pain to deal with at times) and the heavy body and short legs of the Chinese Shih Tzu would be at a disadvantage in these conditions. They could not breathe and survive in the high altitudes of Tibet. The Lhasa Apso could survive in Tibet. The Tibetans produced a dog slightly modified from the Chinese dog of a similar ancestry which was the Lhasa Apso.

The Tibetan Terrier (also involved in the exchanges between Tibet and China) is probably closes to the basic canine with a long head, compact and natural in conformation. Then comes the Apso, which begins to show the influence of some of the Chinese type. This influence resulted in a smaller dog, shorter on leg than the terrier relative, shorter nose than the terrier, and the teeth and jaw formation revealed a shortening of the face. The eyes are more frontally placed.

The eyes of the Shih Tzu have always been one of its most valued signature characteristics. I have never met a Shih Tzu that did not have a warm expression that radiated through its eyes. Some Shih Tzu has this characteristic greater than others. They are almost human-like.

When comparing the Shih Tzu to the Apso, one can see the most distinct Chinese characteristics. I have had Shih Tzu that look as if you are absolutely looking right at a Chinese in person. I am amazed at how the Chinese accomplished this. It truly was a work of art, as they did not breed according to pedigree as we do. They bred according to a picture of their minds of what they wanted the Shih Tzu to look like. Most of the time, their goal was to create the Shih Tzu to resemble what they thought a Lion should look like, and they apparently also, created Shih Tzu to resemble themselves in the face.

Smallness must have been fashionable and something of a status symbol in both the Apso and the Shih Tzu as well as the Pekingese. The Pekingese were also involved in the interbreedings to reduce size.

It should be noted here, however, that this article addresses the history and development of the Shih Tzu breed. The American Shih Tzu Club's Code of Ethics clearly states it is against their rules, ethics, standards to breed our present day Shih Tzu with any other breed. It must be understood that this article is not an endorsement of any kind of practice that is against the rules and regulations of The American Shih Tzu Club or the American Kennel Club. This is an article regarding the history and development of our Shih Tzu.

About the author: Connie Limon is a Shih Tzu Breeder. She publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts are offered to subscribers. Sign up at: http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Wednesday, January 07, 2009

Shih Tzu - Switching To A New Dog Food and Oral Care

Author: Connie Limon

Here is what you need to do to ensure a smooth transition to a new dog food:

Day One: Start by mixing your old brand with the new brand in a ratio of 3/4 to 1/4 - the smaller amount representing the new brand. Do this for three days.

Day Four: After your dog has eaten the 3/4 to 1/4 mixture for three days, graduate to half and half for another three days.

Day Eight: For the last three days, go to a 3/4 to 1/4 mixture, only this time the smaller amount is the old brand of food.

By the end of the 12 days, your dog should be ready to eat the new food on its own.

If your dog is currently on a special diet, consult with your vet first before switching to a different brand of dog food.

One of the most important parts of keeping your dog healthy is to make sure his mouth and teeth are cared for. Proper oral hygiene is critical for dogs of all ages. And the older your dog gets, the more important it is to keep plaque and tartar off the teeth. In fact, not caring for your dog's teeth is a much bigger deal than just yellow teeth or bad breath. It can lead to serious health problems. A positive step toward this very important aspect of maintaining your dog's dental health is feeding healthy treats such as Gourment Dental Treats from HealthyPetNet.

Oral Problems

Plaque: Dogs usually don't get cavities. They are more prone to plaque and tartar build-up on the teeth.

Tartar: If plaque is not removed, tartar forms. Tartar irritates the gums and can lead to damage of the gums called gingivitis. Gingivitis manifests itself as reddening of the gums closest to the teeth.

Periodontitis: If tartar is not removed, it builds up under the gums. It separates the gums from the teeth to form pockets leading to more bacterial growth. If left untreated, this could lead to damage of the teeth called periodontitis. Veterinarians can slow or stop this process.

Home care for your dog's teeth:

Routinely examine your dog's mouth. Warning signs of tartar build-up are bad breath, red and swollen gums, a yellow-brown crust of tartar around the gum line, pain or bleeding when you touch the gums or brush the teeth.

Use chew toys specifically designed for dental health. Brush your dog's teeth according to your vet's instructions.

Proper diet: Feed your dog healthy food and treats. HealthyPetNet distributes some excellent products. They have a dental treat that contains Microdent, a patented plaque fighting ingredient used in human oral hygiene products that is clinically proven to reduce plaque and freshen breath. Microdent helps reduce plaque buildup by forming a coating in the mouth that helps make mouth surfaces to slick that plaque won't stick. This triple action formula also contains calcium for strong bones and teeth and parsley for fresh breath. The dental treats are made in a small bakery especially for HealthyPetNet.

About the author: Connie Limon publishes a FREE weekly newsletter. A professional newsletter with a focus upon health and wellness for you and your pets. Discounts on shih tzu puppies are offered to subscribers. Current available puppies. Sign up at http://www.stainglassshihtzus.com

Tuesday, January 06, 2009

Dog Grooming - Nails, Ears and Teeth

Author: Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

Dog grooming includes not only brushing and bathing your puppy or dog but continues with his nails, ears and teeth. If these are not taken care of, there is a potential for health problems. Think of these dog grooming points as preventive health care and a way to keep the vet bills down.

A dog's nails must be trimmed every so often. Depending upon the surfaces you dog walks on, you may find you need to trim every three to four weeks or even more often. You dog's dewclaws may need more frequent trimming than the rest of his nails.

Begin trimming a puppy's nails when he is about 10 - 12 weeks old. As with the rest of dog grooming, you may need to start with small sessions and work up. Start with one paw and do just that. If he is very aggravated with that, start with just one toe. You may even find you have to start with just holding one paw and one toe. Remember to praise him when he does allow you and to provide treats and play time after the session. Make your puppy look forward to his dog grooming.

In between bathing sessions, you can clean around your dog's eyes with a damp cotton ball. Wipe from the corners outward just as you were taught to do for your own eyes.

Clean your dog's ears only when you see visible dirt. Never use cotton-tipped swabs. Use a cotton ball dampened with a dog-ear cleaning solution, baby or mineral oil or hydrogen peroxide. If there is a bad smell or signs of redness, your dog may require a trip to the vet. Keep an eye out for mites as well. Dogs with droopy ears may have more ear problems and need more cleaning due to lack of airflow into the ear.

Lastly, dog grooming continues with brushing your dog's teeth. To start the process with your puppy you may need to start by simply massaging his lips in a clockwise manner with your finger for a couple weeks followed by massaging his gums and teeth for a couple weeks. Then you can use a dog toothbrush, a piece of gauze wrapped around your finger or a soft round-tipped human toothbrush to begin massaging his teeth and gums. Finally you can begin using dog toothpaste. Do not use human toothpaste. If you find dog toothpaste too expensive, do as people used to do and make a paste of baking soda and water to brush his teeth.

copyright 2005. Sandra Dinkins-Wilson

About the author: Visit our Puppy Training website at http://ezpuppytraining.com/ for a free course on ""Welcoming Your New Puppy Home and Puppy Training"". Find more puppy training and care tips at our website ezpuppytraining.com.

Monday, January 05, 2009

3 tips for being prepared for emergencies with your Dog

Author: Paul Duxbury

Have you ever thought about what you need to do should your dog - or another dog - ever suffer a serious, life-threatening injury? What if they have a severe allergy to an insect bite or a bee sting? It's great to know your vet's phone number, but what if something happens during off hours? What if you don't know where the closest emergency animal clinic is located?

Enough with the questions already, right? Any emergency is stressful and scary, and one involving that furry little four-legged member of your family is no exception. The toughest of owners can be instantly reduced to helpless balls of mush if something's wrong with their dogs and they can't figure out what to do.

1. Preparation is key.

The key to getting through a veterinary emergency is preparation. You may think you have that covered with a first aid kit and having the phone number to your vet handy, but what if there isn't enough time to move your dog? You need to be well-versed in some of the more common animal emergencies just in case a situation ever arises. And hey, if a situation never arises, you'll still feel more confident knowing that you have the ability to deal with one.

2. Know how to care for wounds.

Did you know that you shouldn't use hydrogen peroxide on a bleeding wound? Nope. It slows clotting to the area, which means your dog could actually lose more blood than he would if you didn't use the peroxide at all. In fact, the best way to treat a deep, severely bleeding wound is to apply a clean cloth and hold it in place for five minutes, then tape the cloth to the wound. That original cloth should never be removed - that also slows clotting - and should instead be layered with more clean cloths if blood soaks through.

3. Know what to do about poisoning.

Did you know that certain varieties of toads, salamanders, newts, and other amphibians are poisonous if licked? Hey, guess who loves to hold little woodland critters in his mouth! Your dog. If you notice your pup drooling, whining, and wiping at his mouth after a trip into the forest, get him to a clean water source and rinse his mouth thoroughly. While the poison can be fatal if left in the mouth, it's fairly easy to cleanse from the tongue and glands.

Make sure you are prepared for any emergencies for that friend!

About the author: Paul Duxbury owns http://www.my-dog.co.uk a leading sources of free information and advice for all dog owners as well as http://www.dog-lover.co.uk

Sunday, January 04, 2009

Housebreaking Your Pit Bull Terrier: Puppy Dog Training

Author: Tim Amherst

Housebreaking any new pet can often be a daunting challenge, and housebreaking your Pit Bull puppy will be no exception. It is a necessary step that you as a dog owner must take if you intend your Pit Bull to be an indoor pet, but one that many owners dread. The earlier you start training your dog the better, and many veterinarians recommend starting housebreaking at around eight weeks old.

Pit Bulls tend to learn well by repetition, so it is important to develop a daily routine and stick to it as much as possible. They also crave lots and lots of attention, which will help them to feel more secure in their new home and possibly make training easier. It is best if someone is at home at all times with the Pit Bull during housebreaking, as it will definitely make the process much faster. It is important that you have a designated area for your Pit Bull that is to be considered his individual space. Ideally, his space should be somewhere easy to clean up, like a tiled floor for example, because accidents are likely to happen, especially in the beginning. The area will need to have his bed, chew toys, and food and water since this is the area he will spend a lot of time in, especially if you are away. Make sure the area can be closed off so that the dog cannot get out and gain access to other areas of the house when no one is home. Baby gates tend to work well, because the dog can still see you and won't feel as though he is shut in.

During your time at home, try to give your Pit Bull puppy as much of your attention as possible. Try to go outside with him at least every thirty minutes or so, and make sure you praise or reward him for relieving himself outside. Praise and rewards will help him learn that it is good to potty outside, and he will catch on quick.

Expect your puppy to have accidents in the house. It is just something that is going to happen no matter how diligent you are in training him. Punishing your puppy for this will only lead to more setbacks. The best way to handle housebreaking is to be patient, and remember that it is a long process for both of you that won't happen overnight. The more attention you give your new Pit Bull puppy, the more he will thrive and do well. During all of the time you devote to training your puppy, you are building a good relationship with him as well, hopefully one that will last a lifetime.

About the author: To learn all about American Pit Bull Terriers and training a Pit Bull , visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Saturday, January 03, 2009

5 Great Tips for feeding a Happy and Healthy Dog!

Author: Paul Duxbury

Do you really know all there is to know about your canine companion's nutritional needs? Many pet owners think they're doing what's best for their dogs when it comes to food, but in reality they rely on pure instinct more than science. Nutrition isn't a guessing game, even when it comes to your pooch. Think about it - if you were left to feed yourself based only on what you craved and had no knowledge of what your body needs to function, would you be eating 5 servings of fruit and veggies or would you head straight for the Ding Dong case at the market?

1. Cover all of the bases.

A dog's diet can be as complex as any human's (including yours!), and it's absolutely essential that you, as an owner, hit all of the vital nutritional bases. A deficiency of certain vitamins and nutrients can lead to upset tummies; overly dry or oily skin, brittle bones, weight issues, and, in some of the worst cases, death. A balanced and proper diet is the building block of your dog's overall health - if he doesn't get the right blend of nutrients, the most impeccable care otherwise won't mean a thing. But with the right diet, his defences against disease and disorders are infinitely stronger than a dog whose owner hasn't put much thought into an eating plan.

2. Mix it up!

For the most part, pre-packaged food will help you cover all of the major nutritional requirements a healthy, fairly young dog has. This where many owners trip up simply because of the ease of the decision; Most think that the major choice is between dry and moist food, when in reality the best diet you can provide your dog is one varied in ingredients, textures, and nutritional value. Wolves where carnivores, and that instinct remains with their our modern day dog; to this day. They continue to hunt prey (poor Kitty), love sausage-flavoured treats, and adore the great crunch they get when chowing down on a bone. Those varied elements should give you a little bit of insight into how diverse your dog's diet can be.

3. Move beyond meat.

Building some portion of his diet from meat gives you many of the crucial nutrients he needs for energy and growth, but he also needs fiber and carbohydrates to aid in digestion and stability. You could throw down a bowl of dry food every day and maybe give him a ""treat"" of moist food once a month, but how would you like it if the tables were turned and he insisted on feeding you pancakes every day for the rest of your life? Not such a sunny outlook, is it?

4. Make it a real meal.

Listen, nobody ever said you had to rely on a bag or can of food to feed your dog. You cook for your family all the time. Doesn't your dog deserve similar treatment? Most owners say they'd love to cook for their pups but just don't know where to start, and that's where I come in. Now you can help fulfil all of your dog's nutritional needs as well as his taste desires with just one quick flip through my new book, 180 Delicious Gourmet Dog Recipes. I know, I know, you're busy, and there's barely time to cook your family a proper meal. That's why you'll love this book - in addition to covering all of the usual recipes like traditional dog chow and cookies, I've created several that are healthy and delicious enough for you, your dog, and your family. Being skeptical is natural; after all, I never dreamed I'd come up with recipes I could easily share with my dogs! But how can you pass up recipes like biscotti, muffins, omelettes, dinner mints, and even sushi?

5. Give him some green.

Your dog needs a well-balanced diet, and the best way to accomplish that is through a wide variety of ingredients. Did you know that many dogs love veggies? In fact, if your dog likes to nibble on grass, he may appreciate some of the veggie-oriented recipes in the cookbook. Give it a shot and see what you - and your dog - think. After all, the worst that could happen is an improvement in your pooch's health!

The only set rule in feeding your pup is to make sure his meals satisfy the unique nutritional requirements any dog has. You don't have to stick to the bag or the can, and you don't have to spend hours slaving away in the kitchen. Making dishes for your dog can be a family event, and nothing expresses gratitude better than a big, sloppy, wet kiss!

About the author: Paul Duxbury owns http://www.my-dog.co.uk a leading sources of free information and advice for all dog owners as well as http://www.dog-lover.co.uk