Getting The Dog You Always Wanted

Author: Hope Saidel

Do you look on with envy as your neighbor jogs through the neighborhood, his faithful dog trotting happily and calmly by his side? Does your arm ache after every walk with your dog - sore from almost being pulled from the socket? Do you watch dog shows with disbelief, unsure how that many dogs can behave so well all at the same time?

It only takes a few minutes a day to achieve a well-trained dog. It doesn't happen in one day, but with a training plan and patience, you and Brutus will achieve a happy partnership. Keep in mind that no dog, not even Lassie, Rin-Tin-Tin or Benji, comes into the world with manners.

Like any other project, dog training works best if you can break the task into manageable chunks and work on one piece at a time. Puppies and dogs have limited attention spans - short training sessions work best. If you can plan two or three five-minute sessions every day, you can train your dog. Over time, with consistency and patience, Gizmo will understand what's expected of him and become the companion animal you always wanted.

Will Ace understand what you're up to at first? No way. He will know that the being he adores above all others on Earth is spending some time with him. And that will make him happy. Banshee will wiggle with absolute delight when she realizes that these sessions involve not only spending time with you, but getting cookies!

Some trainers object to training a dog with food, believing that ""bribery"" is not a good thing. But most dogs, like people, pay much closer attention when they know there's something in it for them. Treats are a terrific motivator. Toys can also work well with many dogs. If purists consider treats to be a shortcut - what's wrong with that? Most people aren't worried about perfect obedience from their dogs - they just want to take Diggity to the park without worry.

A wonderful dog trainer said ""Every dog is trained to his owner's level of comfort."" Only you can decide which ""battles"" with Einstein are worth fighting. Make a training plan for you and Furface, work on it a little at a time. If you approach training as an opportunity to spend some fun time with your dog, you'll both look forward to your sessions and you'll achieve a well-mannered pet.

About the author: Hope Saidel is the co-owner of GollyGear , a bricks-and-mortar and online small dog shop featuring fun, affordable and practical products for small dogs. She has trained and competed in Obedience with small dogs for over a decade and is on the Board of Directors of the North Shore Dog Training Club.

Dog Agility Training for Your Puppy

Author: Brad Carlson

You may be asking, ""When can I start agility training with my new puppy?"" You can start immediately, with certain recommendations. Puppies are always learning, so every time you are with your pup you can be playing and socializing with agility in mind. Always remember, if you can control your puppies environment, you can teach and train the behaviors you want, left on their own, even in a fenced yard, puppies will learn and develop behaviors that later we may want or need to extinguish.

Expose your puppy to different surfaces. One of the first behaviors we teach our pups is ""Box"" or ""Table"". This behavior transfers to the agility pause table. Lure pup up on a low pause table, treat them on the table. You can call the pause table anything you want. (If I was starting over I would name the pause table ""Box"" instead of ""Table"" for my dogs because on the agility course there is the potential to have too many ""T"" words, i.e. tunnel, tire, table, and teeter. The problem is I am also a creature of habit, and under pressure revert back to my default words, ""table"" would be one of them.)

Teach your pup to ""Box"", meaning to get up on a variety of obstacles. In our training field we use ""Box"" for upside down kennel tops, the bottom of barrels turned upside down, bird crates, and more. Be creative with your pup, get them to get up on all kinds of surfaces, exposing them to different shapes, sizes, and textures. Once your pup is comfortable getting up on a ""Box"", then you can begin to ask them to sit on the box also.

You can also begin to use Buja boards for motion training. Buja boards are generally made from plywood, 36"" x 36"" with a painted surface or covered surface. On the underside, there is a 2x4 box where a partially deflated ball is placed. This enables the Buja board to rock gently. At first you can reward your pup for getting one paw on the board, then reward for two feet and eventually all four. Depending on your pups temperament will determine how fast they get comfortable on the Buja Board.

Perch training can also be started with young pups. The Perch is generally a 1'x1' wood surface that is raised by 2""x4""'s underneath. So the Perch is about four inches in height. The Perch helps teach pups rearend awareness. Again, you can reward your pup for getting one front paw on the perch and then the other. Perch training is mostly used with just the front paws on the Perch.

These are just a few behaviors you can teach your young pup. Exposure to a variety of surfaces and heights will help your pup build confidence in his future agility training.

About the author: Brad Carlson is a dog trainer at Agility by Carlson. For more training details, visit our website at http://www.carlson-agility.com/

Dog Training: Tips and Tricks to Stop Your Dog From Digging in Your Yard

Author: O'Neal Hendrix

It's downright infuriating to look out the window and see Buddy digging another hole in the yard. You yell out the window; he may or may not even acknowledge he's heard anything; then back to the digging. This dog behavior has got to stop.

WHY DOGS DIG.....

Did you ever stop to think WHY Buddy digs? (except to make you mad!). This is the real trick - to figure out why he's digging in the first place, the motivation behind the dog behavior. Then you can take dog training steps to discourage it, redirect that energy and possibly stop it completely.

1. I'M BORED!

Location: Digging along the fence lines and at the gate.

Why? He is bored and wants to get out for some action.

Solution: Provide more exercise for your dog, both physical and mental. The more exercise the better, according to your dog. A tired, happy dog will rest nicely between great outings.

2. I'M HOT!!

Location: Digging along the edge of the house or shallow ""pits,"" especially in the heat of the summer.

Why? Your dog is most likely creating a cool spot in the cool under-earth. If under the porch, he's creating a den.

Solution: Check to make sure you are providing fresh cool water throughout the day and night.

Is there adequate shade to protect your dog from the hot sun? Is good air circulation available or possibly a nice breeze? Or is the space filled with stagnant air?

Provide plant life (trees, bushes) for shelter from the hot sun. Cool grass keeps the ground heat down.

3. IT'S JUST MY NATURE!

Sometimes it's the breed of dog, not so much the environment. Some breeds tend to be burrowers -- hounds, huskies, malamutes are a few examples.

Solution: If this is the case, work with your dog to agree on a place he can do his thing and camouflage it with something like plants or fencing.

4. I LIKE IT!!

Some dogs just like to dig, and dig they will, no matter how much you yell and scream.

Solution: Create and help them with the ideal digging place -- a sandy blend with hidden treasures that reward digging at that spot. Having a prepared area encourages the digger to focus the digging to the area you set up in an out-of-the-way place. Remember to keep the area stocked with assorted treats and toys.

TO FILL OR NOT TO FILL ..... EXISTING HOLES

The second part of the story is.....

What to do with the holes that keep reappearing, no matter what you do? Have you back-filled holes dug by your dog only to find them dug again, over and over?

When this happens, the next stage of hole-filling is called for.

You might think this next step it involves yelling at your dog, or rapping on the window. Nope. Are you really going to stand and stare out the window hoping to correct the situation while it's happening (which would be the only way to really correct it using this method)?

TECHNIQUES FOR ""FILLING"" HOLES

There are two better techniques to encourage your dog to rethink digging that hole.

The easier of the two is to fill the hole until almost full. Mix the last portion of dirt with dog poo, pinecones, moth balls, or other repelling non-harmful substance. The next time your dog arrives for the big dig, he quickly finds the game has changed. Most dogs quickly change their behavior.

The second method is more time consuming but effective. Cut a section of chicken wire or similar to cover the hole plus 8 inches or more. Dig a hole a few inches deep that surrounds the hole and will fit the wire shape.

Fill the hole and then press wire in place and cover with dirt. Pack the area well, particularly around the wire edges. When your dog returns, the wire will stop his digging progress.

If along a fence line, secure the wire to the fence along the inside of the fence, just a short distance from the ground. When the wire gets to the ground, keep going vertically a short distance underground. Then bend the wire so the bottom is perpendicular to the top (forms an L). Bury the horizontal part underground inside the fence, pointing away from the fence. When your dog digs he is stopped by the wire and his weight on the earth helps keep the wire in place. The result is the dog gives up on that area.

Pretty cool, huh?!

CONCLUSION

We humans see digging as bad dog behavior. Dogs don't, and they dig for different reasons. If you can figure out why they're digging, you can put dog training steps in place to stop it. Some dogs dig, that's what they do. Set them up a space to dig and you both win!

Try these dog training techniques to change unwanted dog behavior. They seriously work.

About the author: O'Neal Hendrix is a premier professional dog trainer in Atlanta, GA. Considered a ""miracle worker"" by clients, vets, groomers, and even other dog trainers, she has helped many human clients create loving and respectful relationships with even the most difficult-to-train dogs. She has a wealth of knowledge about dogs--check out her dog behavior blog, http://www.dog-supplies-dog-accessories.com , for her advice and opinions on everything dog!

Crufts - The Worlds Greatest Dog Show?

Author: Stephanie Bayliss

Crufts calls itself The Worlds Greatest Dog Show, so what should you expect if you've never been before? Well on the 9 th - 12 th March 2006 it's the 103 rd Crufts Dog Show, so they must be doing something right!

In 2005, Birmingham, England's 2 nd City saw 21,000 dogs and 120,000 visitors to Crufts across four days and 2006 is set to see similar success.

Crufts truly is an international affair with visitors and show dogs from all around the world. But its not just 4 days of pampered show dogs on display at Crufts.

There is the competition, pace and noise of agility and flyball. There are displays from the best of the UK's police dogs and customs dogs, apprehending criminals and sniffing out contraband and weapons.

There are dogs who herd ducks and terriers who race in addition to the beautiful art of Heelwork to music and obedience trials.

Crufts also brings Discover Dogs to Birmingham, an opportunity to meet expert owners and breed representatives and the chance to get up close to hundreds of dog breeds from around the world. There are all shapes and sizes of dogs and dogs for every type of home. For anyone looking for a new dog, this is a perfect opportunity to consider all of the different breeds available. And for anyone who loves dogs, adults and children alike, this is a chance to play with and cuddle the dogs at the exhibition!

Add to all of this the stands, selling everything from dog food to dog clothes, pictures and ornaments to shampoos and brushes.

Crufts really is an event that every dog lover should visit at least once; but I suspect that if you do see it once, you'll go back again and again!!

About the author: Stephanie has written many articles on dogs which can be found at the Kennel Corner website.

Express Your Love by Expressing Your Dog - The Dirt on a Dog-owners' Dirtiest Job

Author: Randal Breaux

There is a dreadful substance inside your dog's butt that's aching to get out, and unless you rise to this disgusting challenge, consequences can be dire.

It's called expressing your dog, and it is a chore so foul that it was recently featured on the Discovery Channel's ""Dirty Jobs."" Actually, ""dirty"" hardly does the situation justice.

If your dog is chewing and biting ""back there"" or dragging its rump across the ground, chances are he is in need of a little expression - of his sphincter glands, that is.

Dogs have special glands that secrete an especially - shall we say - fragrant substance into their poop. It's what makes a dog's poop her own, and it's what dogs sniff for when they are investigating other dogs' rears or their droppings.

Problems occur when these glands get clogged up. The musky fluid begins to collect, and the dogs begin to experience irritating pressure and pain - like a turbo case of hemorrhoids.

Usually, the dog is able to express - or squeeze out - some of the fluid and get the glands flowing again. If your dog has ever been inexplicably stinky - almost like he has gotten into rotten fish or something, then chances are you've experienced a do-it-yourself expression job.

If you're lucky, the sacred event took place outside, but just as often the residue ends up saturating carpet or expensive furniture. Yum!

Things get worse if the dog is unable to alleviate the problem, and the situation goes unchecked. As you might imagine, this can be an excruciating experience for your dog. Finally, you will most likely be saddled with an expensive vet bill, and your dog will end up needing a most uncomfortable surgical procedure.

Getting Down to Dirty Business

All of this can be easily avoided by a little human intervention. Expressing a dog is a simple enough procedure - it's the mental challenge that is most difficult to overcome. Vile fluids squirting from a dog's butt is certainly not a mental image you'd want to hold during meditation or anything.

Honestly, it's really not bad. The liquid smells like fish, not ...uh ...you know. It's mostly clear liquid, and it rinses pretty easily. It doesn't have the staying power of the substance that cats spray (which is truly disgusting!).

Finding the glands is easy. If the butt hole itself is the center of a clock, the two glands sit at the four and eight o'clock positions about two inches from the ""center."" From the outside (and it is strongly suggested you stay outside, even though vets usually venture in), they feel like kidney beans, although distended glands can get significantly larger.

Before you dive in, I can hardly stress enough the importance of pointing the dog's bottom away from you and anything else you care about. Also, make sure you have something to wash the dog and your surroundings down after the procedure. If it's warm, take the dog outside; if it's cold, a shower stall that has a rinse hose is a good option.

I can recommend two expressing techniques. First, the upward thrust: position your thumb and forefinger each under one gland; push in to make sure your digits are firmly fixed under each; then give a strong lift, squeezing the glands upward. If you are successful, usually you will be rewarded with a good squirt - about the same as a squirt gun. Sometimes the fluid gets sludgy, in which case a small black worm of crud will emerge. Repeat a few times as required to make sure you've emptied both glands thoroughly.

If this technique does not produce the desired result, then you should try the more direct approach: pinching each gland separately, squeezing both sides toward the middle. Expect similar results as when using the first technique.

Do it Yourself?

If you are too squeamish to contemplate perpetrating such an abomination, you will be happy to know that professional help is available. Most groomers are willing to render this value-added service for a small consideration during a regular grooming; failing that, your local vet can certainly perform the ritual, but usually at a higher fee.

I find, however, that my own dogs (three pugs) seem to appreciate my keeping this very personal need of theirs within the confines of the family. When I first started doing the expression thing myself, I wore what amounted to a home-made hazmat suit, but over the years my resolve has stiffened quite a bit.

Nowadays, I generally don't even bother with gloves. I just take the dogs outside next to the hose and aim them away. A quick squirt and rinse and the job's done. No big deal, really. It's a small price to pay for a happy, comfortable dog - who seem to appreciate me all the more for it.

About the author:

Randal Breaux is owned and operated by three pugs - along with his wife and two daughters - in The Woodlands, TX (just outside Houston).

Training the dog to come when it is called

Author: Chris Vergaelen

Training a dog to come when it is called is a vital, and potentially life saving, part of any successful dog training program. All properly trained dogs must learn to respond instantly to the owner's voice, and the sooner this lesson is learned the better.

The advantages of teaching a dog to come when called are obvious. For starters, coming when called will help you regain control of the dog in case of collar break, snapped leash or other similar equipment failure. This is particularly important when you are out with your dog, especially in an area with lots of traffic. It is vital that the dog respond to your voice and return to your side, even in the absence of collar and leash, and even if there are lots of other things competing for its attention.

Coming when called is also a vital skill for every working dog. Whether the dog's job is herding sheep, guarding livestock, or sniffing out bombs and drugs at the airport, the working dog must be under total control at all times, whether on leash or off.

Even if your dog's only job is being a loyal companion, it is still vital that he learn this important basic obedience exercise. After the first obedience lessons, such as heeling, stopping on command, sitting on command, etc. have been learned, it is time to start incorporating the come when called lessons into the daily training sessions.

One note about dog training - it is all too easy for training sessions to become dull and routine for both handler and dog. A bored dog will not be receptive to learning, just as a bored handler will not be a good teacher. It is important, therefore, to always incorporate fun things and play into every training session. Incorporating a few minutes of play time before the lesson begins can do wonders for the attitude of dog and human alike. Likewise, ending each training session with a few minutes of free play time is a great way to end on a positive note and to help the dog associate obedience training with fun and not drudgery.

The command to stay and the command to come when called are often combined in obedience training lessons, and they do go naturally together. Start with the dog on a loose leash, ask the dog to sit and then slowly back away. If the dog begins to get up and follow you, return to the dog and ask him to sit again. Continue this process until you can reach the end of the leash without the dog getting up.

After you can successfully reach the end of the leash on a consistent basis, try dropping the leash altogether. Of course you will want to do this in a controlled environment like a fenced in yard. After the dog has mastered the stay command, it is time to add the come when called command.

Take up the leash again, and with the dog on the end of the leash, say ""come"" or ""come here"". It is often helpful to use a lure when teaching this behavior. The lure provides a visible item for the dog to focus on. Teaching the dog to come to the lure is a good first step in training the dog to come when called.

Repeat this procedure many times until the dog will consistently stay and then come when called. After the dog has mastered coming when called while attached to the leash, slowly start introducing the concept when the leash is removed. As before, these training sessions should only take place in a controlled, safe environment, such as a fenced in front or back yard.

A well trained, obedient dog should respond to the call to return to its owner no matter where it is and no matter what distractions may occur. It is therefore necessary to test the dog with distractions of your own.

If you have a neighbor, preferably one with a dog of his own, try having him come over with the dog. Have him, and the dog, stand just outside the fenced in area and repeat the come when called exercise with your dog off leash. If he becomes distracted by the other dog, put the leash back on and repeat the process. The goal is to have your dog consistently pay attention to your commands, no matter what distractions may present themselves.

About the author: Chris Vergaelen has a large experience in training dogs. For more information, visit the site Dog training

Want to find the Perfect Dog for your home? Then the Havanese might just be the puppy you're looking for!

Author: Fiona Kelly

Unsure which Dog Breed to choose? Well I don't blame you - there are literally hundreds to choose from! Do you fancy some dogs, only to find out that they just won't suit your lifestyle! Are you STILL looking?

Here is a Tip......

There is one dog breed that you really need to consider. In fact it hasn't been in the states for very long and already is becoming one of the most sought after little dogs going around. So much so that the demand for puppies is so great the breeders are having a hard time keeping up - talk about a stampede of interest in this popular little dog....

Curious about what all the fuss is about?

Well I am talking about the highly sought after Havanese!

Are you looking for a sweet, cute, yet sturdy small lap dog? How about a dog that has a non-shedding fluffy white or black coat? If you are looking for a petite companion dog that is intelligent and great with children then the Havanese breed is for you.

Here is a little about the Havanese.

Did you know that the Havanese originated in Cuba? The Havanese is in the Bichon variety of dogs and has relations to the Maltese, Poodle, and Bichon Frise. The Havanese is the national dog of Cuba. Wow - what an exciting honor to bestow upon a dog! This recognition demonstrates the universal admiration and appreciation for the Havanese breed.

Did you know that the Havanese is a small dog, but is an accomplished performer? The Havanese dog is clever, obedient, and skilled at performing tricks. The Cuban social elite have regarded the Havanese breed as a top dog for hundreds of years.

Did you know that the Havanese breed is relatively new in the United States? The Havanese breed hit America in the 1970's. The 1990's brought a surge in popularity and the Havanese is quickly becoming the ""It"" dog of the 21st century.

Its temperament, personality and non-shedding coat have made this little dog ""The Dog To Have"".

As you continue your search for the RIGHT puppy to get, you really need to consider the Havanese Puppy. If you want more information about this dog, then visit http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com

Fiona

About the author: Fiona Kelly is a passionate Havanese owner that has devoted countless hours sharing her secrets on how to have the perfect, happy, healthy and best behaved Havanese. If you're interested in the Havanese then you can check out her web site at http://www.havanese-puppy-guide.com