Does Your Dog Roll In Poop? Here's Why

Author: Adam G. Katz

Robin asks:

I'm wondering if you could tell me why-- when I'm walking Yogi through some grass-- that he smells something and the next thing I know, he's stuck his head on the ground and starts to roll his body over the area he was smelling. On two occasions, he coated himself in another dog's poop. I've been asking vets and laypersons to explain this behavior but no one seem to know. Thank you so much for listening.

Very Sincerely, -Robin

Dear Robin:

This is a hold-over instinct from before dogs were domesticated. They would roll around in a heavily scented object to mask their own scent, when hunting.

This behavior can be stopped by telling your dog, "No." Sounds easy, right?

Well, if that hasn't worked, then you can bet that your, "No" command doesn't have any meaning to your dog.

Here's what you'll need to do:

1. Establish yourself as the pack leader.

2. Leave a training collar and tab on your dog, so that you can start consistently associating a "negative" with your verbal "No" command.

3. If your correction is motivational, your dog will get the picture, fast. Dogs simply do not continue to do a behavior that does not feel good.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Beginner Tips For Dog Training

Author: Adam G. Katz

1. What age should I start using the prong collar?

[Adam replies: ] Generally speaking, at about four months of age… when you see the adult teeth begin to come in.

2. What should I be teaching, obedience wise, with 8 month puppy?

[Adam replies: ] At eight months of age, there really isn't ANYTHING you can't teach the dog, obedience-wise.

3. When you say pop, when teaching the down command,do you mean I should pop the prong collar? So for example if the dog gets up from down/stay position and walk away, you said to say NO, pop the leash, then say NO all the way back to manhole, then pop the leash again? Do you mean to pop the prong or to guide him into down/stay position?

[Adam replies: ] When I say "pop" I mean to tug on the leash. Make sure you're starting and ending with slack. So, you say, "No!" then go to the dog and give a pop on the leash, then walk him back to the spot and reissue the "down" command… and then "pop" downward (or to the side) on the leash and put him back into the down position.

5. What's the difference between obedience training and sport training (i.e. Schutzhund)? Why do they say you shouldn't train your dog in obedience if you want him to be in Schutzhund? (I just want to know for my own knowledge)

[Adam replies: ] Schutzhund is a dog sport the incorporates an obedience routine, as well as a protection and tracking routine. The obedience exercises are mostly route exercises, and are not trained in a street-smart context. As for why you supposedly shouldn't train your dog in obedience if you want him to be in Schutzhund… this is a myth. Some macho types will consistently over-correct their dog in the obedience phase… and this will kill drive. But anyone with even a shred of common sense will avoid this predicament.

6. What do you think of raw diets for dogs? Worth it??

[Adam replies: ] Not worth it. Feed the dog a high quality dog food and your dog will be fine.

7. What order should I teach the dog the commands?(first sit, then down then come?? How should I do it?)

[Adam replies: ] I like to teach the "Walk on a loose leash" exercise first, followed by the curb/street/boundary training, as this teaches the dog what a correction is (if he doesn't know already). Then you can teach exercises in any order you wish. To be honest, the order of basic exercises is largely irrelevant. It DOES become relevant in later training, when you begin chaining behaviors together, such as "Go to the fridge, open door, retrieve beer, then close door."

8. To teach the dog to not run out of the house, when I slam the door I'm afraid it is going slam on him too hard and hurt him. How do I go about doing it? Do I shut it softly or will he be fast enough to stop?

[Adam replies: ] You're thinking too much. Just slam the door shut. Assuming it's not a toy breed, it's not going to kill him. If it is a toy breed, keep your hand on the door and guide it shut. The idea is that the door slams on the dog… not to injure the dog, but to be uncomfortable so that he waits and watches you for the "release" command before walking through. You are the alpha dog. You walk through first. It is your job to make sure it's safe for him to leave the property, and he needs to look to you for the "It's Okay" cue. If you don't give the "A-okay" cue… then bad things could happen. Like the door suddenly slamming shut. Ever sit on a dirty chair and ruin a clean pair of slacks? Once it happens to you, you'll always check first. It's the same concept with the dog.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Dog Too Spoiled To Walk On Leash

Author: Adam G. Katz

Dear Mr. Katz:

I have a 4 month old female pup, AmStaff/Boxer (we think - she was a rescue). She responds well to all training, EXCEPT for walking and heeling.

We've practiced the loose-leash ""turning on a dime"" technique described in your book and audio tape at length, but she refuses to cooperate.

It's not a matter of distraction - when I attempt to train her in this style, she pulls back with all her strength. When the loose leash is snapped, she sits, paws braced, or lays down on her back. These responses are immediate.

I've tried instantly righting her, and continuing the training, but she responds as above just as quickly. This can go on indefinitely. I've tried correcting her with a low ""No,"" and praising her if she responds correctly for even an instant. I've tried using treats to get her to at least walk with me briefly...... all to no success.

What else should I try? Thanks, Geoff

Dear Geoff,

It's a good question you've asked.

First, you DO NOT want to work the dog around distractions at this point in the game.

Second, you should not be telling the dog, ""No!"" and jerking the leash for this behavior. Instead, you need to simply glue the leash to your belt and keep walking.

Now here's where your problem will arise: You've already inadvertently taught your dog that if she kicks and screams long enough (or rolls on her back and throws a tantrum)... that eventually you will stop walking and come to see what's wrong.

The only problem is... NOTHING IS WRONG!

It's like if I take you in a helicopter and drop you off in the middle of the desert and tell you that I'm going to leave you there, but will eventually come back and pick you up in half an hour (or 2 hours, or a whole day!!!) ... you will simply sit there and not attempt to remedy your situation, as you know that I'm coming back to pick you up. Eventually, this situation will end and I'll come back and your problems will be over.

However, if I instead drop you off in the middle of the desert and tell you that I'm never coming back... then all of the sudden you're in a position where you MUST START TRYING DIFFERENT THINGS TO BETTER YOUR SITUATION.

Maybe you start to look for some twigs you can start a smoke fire with, to draw the attention of an airplane overhead.

Or perhaps you climb on top of a rock, to look for a nearby highway so that you can hitch hike to a nearby pay phone.

But the point is... you start actively looking for a solution because you IMMEDIATELY REALIZE THAT YOUR SITUATION WILL NOT SIMPLY END BY ITSELF.

And this is the same thing you need to teach your dog. And it's a lesson that will extend beyond this one exercise. Your dog must learn that just because she does not want to do something DOES NOT mean that you will give in and let her not do the exercise.

BECAUSE THIS CREATES A SPOILED DOG.

So... what should you do? The answer is really quite simple. Just keep walking. No matter how much the dog kicks and screams and throws a tantrum, remember: You're not asking her to do anything she cannot do if she chooses. We're asking her to SIMPLY WALK WITH YOU.

Now, in light of everything you've already taught her (remember, every action you do teaches your dog something)... you may have to keep walking a quarter of a mile before she finally realizes that you're not stopping and that it's easier to walk alongside you than it is to be dragged on her rump.

Trust me... it won't be a pretty scene for your neighbors to look out their window and see you dragging your dog on her rump down the street.

But when you will be able to take that same dog out for a casual stroll later that evening, your neighbors will wonder if you didn't trade your dog in for a different one and will gasp at how well she walks alongside you on the leash.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Body Language Before Dog Bites

Author: Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam:

After catching up on doggy email, I've noticed your reference to submissive posture. Your book helped more than a professional trainer I hired for my adopted Golden. We went through biting and dominance issues. The problem I am having now is I still do not trust him 100%. When he bit there really wasn't any sign it was coming (that I noticed). Even now, the only sign that he doesn't like something is a lowered head and sometimes a low growl (the groomer told me this). This dog growls sometimes when he is happy. It is almost like someone taught him not to make any other noise in doors. Outside he will bark. I guess the big question is how do you read a dog's face, body, etc.?

Thanks, Mark.

Dear Mark:

It's a tough situation you've got. You've really got to just pay close attention to the dog at any time you suspect she may display the aggression. The most common indicators that I used when working with clients who had aggressive dogs was to watch:

1. The mouth. A dog will always pull has mouth closed tight just before he bites.

2. Body language. The dog's body language will get stiff and still just before he bites. Especially watch the stillness. It's very subtle, but at the same time very noticeable once you train your eye to look for it.

There are other things that you could look for depending on the dog and the type of aggression. However, you need to recognize that there are ALWAYS cues... it's just a matter of whether we are quick enough (or aware enough) to catch them.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

DOG GOES BALLISTIC WHEN JOGGING WITH OWNER

Author: Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam:

My dog, Chance, we think is a Golden retriever mix, but he's mostly white with gold patches. Also he's about 2/3 the size of a Golden Retriever.

He's 18 months old and has been loose-leash trained pretty well as long as you don't let him get distracted.

The thing I don't know how to handle is that some dogs that we meet when we're out jogging or walking, he goes ballistic.

We have used a choke chain to train him, and it seemed to work well. But there is that occasional dog that we meet will get him so riled that he pulls, then spins, then pulls backwards, then jumps up and down, then spins again - all to get loose to go attack the other dog.

What are my options?

- Greg

Dear Greg:

My first question is: Why aren't you using a pinch collar? This is advocated ad nausea in the book…

Furthermore, distractions should not be avoided. They should be actively sought after. Distractions make your dog better. They allow you to teach your dog that you are going to make him behave EVEN AROUND A DISTRACTION.

My hunch is that he's not listening to you because you're using a choke chain collar and you're not able to get a good correction. If you WERE getting a good correction, he wouldn't be throwing a tantrum.

He can't be watching the other dog and watching you at the same time. If he has to worry about you sneaking off and getting caught at the end of the leash (where he gets a correction from the collar)… then he's not going to have enough room in his brain left to think about going after the other dog.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Some Advanced Dog Training Points you should know about CONDITIONING YOUR DOG

Author: Adam G. Katz

Akeisha wrote to me with some very good questions. I've included her letter (and my responses) below:

[Akeisha] Hi its Akeisha again. I do see what you mean if it is on all the time the dog will soon forget it is on and then will behave regardless. Ok, so the dog never wears a buckle collar again? This is what irks me. I want to be able to control the dog regardless of what collar is on not just the pinch or it could be no collar at all and the dog still behaves. What if the owner for some reason takes off the collar then they put the buckle collar on for ID but then forget the pinch collar? Then there is no control.

[Adam] WRONG! The dog gets conditioned. Take off the collar for awhile. Doesn't matter.

[Akeisha] Do you ever in the training go back to the buckle collar after months of what you recommend with a dog that is happy with doing the commands?

[ Adam: ] Yes, the dog does the command because he is happy and he likes it. But eventually, there will be something that tempts him. This is where conditioning comes in.

Think of it like this: You've lived in the same house for 10 years, right? You get up in the middle of the night and you reach for the light switch that is to the LEFT of the door. Pretty soon, you get conditioned to reach out to the LEFT of the door.

One day you travel and stay in a hotel. You wake up in the middle of the night and reach out to the LEFT of the door for the switch... even though you cognitively saw that the switch is on the RIGHT.

In fact, you may wake up for several nights-- perhaps even weeks or months-- and still reach out to the LEFT, even though the switch is now on the right. Some people will continue reaching to the LEFT for the rest of their lives. Some will begin reaching to the right.

Those people need to be reinforced. Get it?

[Akeisha] Motivational corrections if on the right dog won't frighten them or make them hate you I know but aren't there other ways except using the collar that will eventually be established thought training that will allow you to take the collar off and have control?

[ Adam: ] Yeah, this way you can take the collar off and have control, ONCE THE DOG IS CONDITIONED. But eventually you'll have to go back and reinforce, for most dogs. And definitely if you start expecting to work the dog around new distractions that it's never been proofed around, such as chickens if the dog has never seen chickens.

Look, I don't make the rules. The dog is not a robot that you can suddenly say, ""He's done"" and expect him to act consistently for the rest of his life. Like any relationship you have with another person, boundaries need to be established and maintained. The dog is like your wife or husband… they will eventually test you. :)

[Akeisha] Last question, how can the dog not realize the don't have it on since it feels a lot different than the buckle? Its like my id around my neck at school I have gotten used to it but I do realize when it is off? Just for the record I have no problem with pinches, many members in my 4-H club use them and they work great on the right dog.

[ Adam: ] Because the way you should be using the pinch collar is that the dog (since he has limited reason and logic) does not KNOW that it is the pinch collar that allows you to give him good corrections. But it's more than the pinch collar. If I put the dog in a number of small yards, with no collar on ... and I'm able to chase him down and make him come back to me, if he doesn't come when I call... then the dog will learn THE UNDERLYING PREMISE that I can make him do it, if he doesn't. So, the pinch collar and the long line make my job easier, but ultimately, the dog knows (or he thinks at least) that I am a man of my word and when I tell him to do something: If he doesn't do it, I'm going to make him do it. And his life will be a lot more fun if he does it willingly. So the dog starts to extrapolate this principle to other commands, too.

[Akeisha] Hope I am not being irritating I just like to know why certain trainers value certain methods over others since I love competing in obedience with my dog.

[Adam:] Keep training. -Adam.

Do you want to be able to take your dog anywhere, and KNOW that he'll listen to you... even if tempted by another dog, a cat, or even a piece of food??? Then check out: ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History!"" By Adam G. Katz, Owner of South Bay K-9 Academy. For more information, go to: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Why You Should Never Hit Your Dog- Even When Training

Author: Adam G. Katz

Dear Adam:

I will try and make this short and include only the details I think will help. I HAVE read the entire book on line. I will pick up all of the tapes along with the book when I come to USA in May.

I live in a third world country. Most of the dogs here are wild, mixed breed or mistreated.

We went to another part of the country to obtain a pure bred dog. He is bred to guard sheep... an older breed and very large. Our dog is 9 weeks old and most of the time is good... just regular puppy stuff.

My problem is that I cannot obtain a pinch collar or anything else for giving corrections until I come to USA in May. Sometimes our dog is very aggressive if wanting to do opposite of what we want. Seems he is challenging more often and with greater aggressiveness...snapping and biting. These dogs here are very UN-domesticated! Any suggestions on how to give a correction with hitting? I growl, spit in food. Don't have kennel or crate yet. Need to find materials and build one...difficult here. Help.

He is smart and I don't want to give up yet, but I feel like I am doing everything wrong without proper correction tools. Thanks in advance.

- Paula

Dear Paula:

Never hit your dog.

I have no idea why you cannot order dog training supplies from somewhere in Europe or have them shipped from America?

But regardless, hitting your dog is never appropriate.

In the meantime, you could go to a hardware store and make yourself a make-shift slip collar from either chain or rope. And improvise either a cord or rope as a leash. However, I'd probably be remiss in stating that this should have been something you thought about BEFORE buying a dog.

Regardless, it is possible to train a dog without the proper tools. But it's a lot harder… especially for a beginner.

In the meantime, if he nips at you, you should say, "No!" and then grab the scruff of his neck and give a firm, quick pull and release. You may also try grabbing his ear and giving it a quick tug/pull.

Neither of these techniques are optimal. But given the circumstance, it's the best I can recommend.

Also, please be aware that you should only be correcting biting and for housebreaking. Don't start formal obedience until the dog is 4 to 4 1/2 months old.

Good luck, Adam.

To read more of my dog training ramblings, read about my book (click below): http://tinyurl.com/4efaq Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

How To Spot A Great Pit Bull Breeder: 7 Signs Of A Good Dog Breeder

Author: Tim Amherst

If you're searching for a Pit Bull terrier puppy but are unsure about where to look for one, this is an important article for you to read. Many people are afraid to ask questions when they speak with breeders and this is the first hurdle that you need to get over. It is vital for you to ask questions when you are speaking with different breeders. Below is a list that I've created of some very important things you should look for and ask of the Pit Bull terrier breeders you're considering doing business with.

1. Does the breeder breed several different types of dogs? This can often be a red flag and you should try to stick with breeders who only work with American Pit Bull Terriers.

2. A responsible Pit Bull breeder will be able to tell you the negative characteristics and health issues of his breeding line and also what he has done over the years to improve that aspect of his dogs.

3. Can the breeder thoroughly explain to you how he selects dogs for breeding and what characteristics they will most likely throw?

4. How often does the breeder have litters of puppies? Breeders who have many, many litters each year may not be a good choice.

5. Is the breeder involved with Pit Bulls on a larger scale than just breeding them?.

6. Does the breeder keep in touch with those who have purchased puppies from him? Breeders who sell pups and then have no idea where they end up should be avoided.

7. Where does the breeder keep his puppies at before they are sold? Are they well socialized?

There are many other things that you could ask the Pit Bull breeders that you speak with, however the above list will give you an excellent start and greatly improve the chances that you'll end up with an excellent Pit Bull terrier puppy.

About the author: To learn all about American Pitbull Terriers and how to train a Pitbull puppy , visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

How to Keep Your Boxer - or any Dog - Healthy...

Author: Daniel Lesser

Feed him a balanced diet.

Additional tips from owners include:

- Give an occasional yogurt treat - Ask your vet about giving Boxers calcium tablets as they could have some problems later on in life!

- Keep him comfortable so his immune system can remain strong.

- Boxers are shorthaired and sensitive to extreme elements of the weather and thus must be kept a housedog. His shortened muzzle also makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for him.

- Give Boxers lots of exercise and regularly.

- Remember that he is a big and strong breed and requires physical outlets for his boundless energy and high play/prey drive.

- Walk them three times a day or have play sessions. Provide plenty of space for them to bounce around. You want to keep their spirit up and not break it or they won´t be the dogs you fall in love with in the first place. Healthy and happy Boxers are a joy to live with.

- Make a breeder your friend.

- Keep in touch with the breeder who sold you the Boxer. The breeder can advise you about care and health matters that are unique to the breed. Any Boxer breeder, for that matter, can be an invaluable ally to you throughout your Boxer's life.

- Guard your Boxer from fleas.

- Your Boxer has fleas if you find black specks in the fur or fleabite marks on the skin. A tip given by an owner is to give your Boxer garlic daily to prevent fleas.

- Boxers catch fleas from other animals. It is an every day problem that, at some time or another, you can expect to encounter in your Boxer.

- The fleas only go to the Boxer to feed on its blood.

- Fleas mostly live and multiply in your home. The comfortable living - central heating, double-glazing and, best of all, the fitted carpet - we create for ourselves and our Boxers also work best for the fleas.

- De-worm your puppy every month and your adult Boxer, every six months.

Daniel Lesser articles url: http://www.thingsfordogs.com/keeping-your-dog-healthy.php

About the author: Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com

Dog Health Conditions and Terms You Should Know... Part 2

Author: Daniel Lesser

Cryptorchidism is peculiar to male dogs and a condition present at birth.

The testicle/s, which developed in the abdomen, fail to descend into the scrotum. The usually underdeveloped and non-functional testicle/s should be removed, as it could turn cancerous later in life.

If the condition remains after the puppy is more than 2 months old, then the chances are it will remain so permanently.

Eye ulcers, if caught early, are easy to treat. Late treatment can be expensive for you as well as painful for your Boxer.

Dermodicosis or non-contagious mange first appears as numerous patches anywhere on the Boxer's skin. The hair will fall off, leaving bald patches in large areas, and the bald skin starts to break down, turning into crusty sores.

Atopy is itchy (pruritic) skin disease caused by allergy to something the Boxer breathes in or touch.

It cannot be cured and is the number two common allergic skin condition in dogs, after flea allergy dermatitis. Having fleas would make it worse for your Boxer.

A Boxer suffering from atopy would have itchiness particularly on the hands and feet.

He'd be chewing his paws, scratching his ears, shaking its head, scratching the muzzle or rubbing it on the ground. These same symptoms can also be brought about by food allergy.

Acne in young dogs shows as red bumps (papules) and blackheads (comedones) on the chin and lips.

Shorthaired dogs like Boxers are more likely to get them. And like in human, they start getting acne around puberty, but the problem would usually go away after one year old or so.

However, you may have to help with some topical gel medication similar to the one used by teenagers. Such lesions may become infected and develop pus, which becomes itchy for your Boxer and he starts rubbing his face in the carpet or against furniture.

Urinary incontinence in dogs can be due to a neurological lesion - something not normal with the parts of the nervous system that deal with urine regulation.

A Boxer with incontinence will dribble urine and if a neurologic lesion is the cause, then this has to be removed.

There are also other reasons not related to the nervous system like congenital defect and bacterial urinary tract infection, also known as bacterial cystitis or bladder stone.

If your Boxer leaves wet spots where he has slept and he has skin irritation from contact with the urine, then he may have incontinence.

However, wet spots around the house alone may simply mean that he drinks a lot more and needs to relieve himself often but you are not allowing him outside frequently enough. Straining while urinating and blood in the urine are two signs of bladder stone.

Deafness

Boxer is among the more than 35 breeds of dogs on record to have hereditary sensorineural deafness.

The condition cannot be reversed with medications, surgery or hearing aids. Dogs also could become deaf from old age, toxicosis or infection.

How do you tell if your Boxer is deaf?

He doesn't respond to spoken commands and only responds to you when he sees you.

He keeps shaking his head and pawing his ears or turns in the wrong direction when you call him.

He sleeps more than normal and would not wake up till you physically touch him.

But not to worry, you can still have a wonderful companion in your deaf Boxer through sign language.

Dogs have been known to learn as many as 65 command words in sign language. These include signs for, among others, ""stop"", ""potty"", ""drop it"", ""stay"", ""lay down"", ""sit"", ""come"" and ""cookie"".

As extra measures, you want to keep the deaf Boxer in a safe environment as he cannot hear approaching dangers like an approaching car. So keep him on a leash and close to you when in traffic or out for walks.

On his nametag, add the word ""deaf"" so he will not be misunderstood if he ever gets lost. Some suggest putting a bell as well so you know where to find him if he gets lost.

And finally, if your Boxer tested positive for inherited deafness in one or both ears, do not breed him or her.

Daniel Lesser Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health2.php

Part 1 is available at http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health.php Part 3 is available at http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health3.php

About the author: Daniel Lesser Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com

The Right Leash and Collar for Your Dog

Author: Adam G. Katz

In the past, when people spoke of training collars, they really generally were referring to "choke chains." A choke chain is a metal chain with a sliding ring that is attached to your dog's nylon or leather leash. There's a reason it's called a choke chain. Because there is no limit on how tight the training collar can pull against your dog's neck, there exists a very real possibility it can choke him, as well as cause other injuries, such as:

• Severely sprained necks

• Tracheal and esophageal damage

• Injured ocular vessels

• Cases of fainting

• Transient foreleg paralysis

• Laryngeal nerve paralysis • • Hind leg ataxia

And if you think I'm kidding about any of these injuries: I'm not; they're all well-documented cases taken from hundreds of veterinary practices who have treated the dogs injured by choke chains. Bottom line? In the hands of an experienced trainer, a choke chain can be used appropriately, but for the most part, your average person has no idea what an appropriate use of a choke chain entails. My own personal preference is for a flat buckle collar, either nylon or leather, which can be used for training and everyday use. It should fit snugly, but leave room enough for you to slide two fingers between the collar and your dog's neck. Any looser than that, and it may slide off over your dog's head. Any tighter and it may cause chafing and discomfort. The choice of nylon or leather is simply a matter of personal preference – nylon comes in a variety of bright colors, and is a good choice for dogs that spend a lot of time in the water (or mud!) Leather is durable and will absorb oils from your dog's coat, making it more flexible over time. The width of the collar should be appropriate to your dog's size. For example, a wide, heavy or thick collar just won't work on a Chihuahua, in fact, it would look ridiculous. By the same token, if you have a Rottweiler, a diamond- or rhine-stone-studded poodle collar is going to look pretty silly. And don't forget an identification tag – if your dog is lost or stolen, this is a quick way for authorities to notify you when your pet is located. Another terrific solution is a harness – a device that goes around the neck and ribcage, thus eliminating the possibility of choking. Harnesses are an excellent resolution to the problem of having a large dog that hasn't been well-trained and pulls or lunges when out for a walk. It's a great way to restrain the pulling without getting in that choking "tug of war" that you sometimes see. Harnesses are also good for small dogs, which can have serious problems with collars pressing on their small and fragile airways. Now for the proper leash. As with collars, you have a choice of flat nylon or leather (or braided leather is also available), and as with collars, it's largely a matter of personal preference. I use a 6 foot nylon leash for training my dog. I find it's the perfect length for walking, heeling and virtually all of my training sessions. Many dog owners prefer a retractable leash. These are nylon leashes that are encased in a plastic casing, and vary in length up to about 25 feet or so. The best models of this type have a one-button "braking" system that stops your dog from going beyond a set distance, as well as a spring mechanism that allows you to adjust just how far you want to extend the lead. Retractable leashes are a good idea if you walk your dog in a variety of settings: you can "reel" him in if you're on city sidewalks or in situations where there are a lot of people or other dogs around, then you can expand the distance between you when you get to the park or an open space.

For more: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Dog Obediance Tips...

Author: Daniel Lesser

Training your dog can be time consuming and frustrating at times, but it's well worth it. Here are several tips that should help things go much smoother and faster... plus reduce the frustration both you and your dog feel!

Conduct ""play training"" where by the training tasks are made into fun games and your dog's play drive is used as motivation. There are a lot of really good books available on this type of training.

Intelligent dogs can also be stubborn, so you may have to outwit them!

While training your dog, you have to make him want to do what you want him to. You can't make him do stuff unless it is fun. Otherwise you are wasting both your time and his.

Try to make your dog's training so fun that it becomes his or her favorite activity. This will make learning much easier and more enjoyable.

Most dogs love to play! You can make your dog the happiest just by spending some time with them, giving your undivided attention each day. Without this, your dog will feel ignored, bored, or think they're in trouble. When this happens they're more likely to chew, tear things up, and not listen to you.

Daniel Lesser Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-obedience-tips.php

About the author: Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com

The Pro's Never Yell Or Scream Commands At Their Dog

Author: Adam G. Katz

I never yell at my dog. Never. Well, okay. There's one exception. And that exception is if: I'm already working with the dog at such a far distance that he can't audibly hear me. And usually this is the case only if I'm teaching the dog to respond to hand signals. Why don't I ever raise my voice if I'm working with my dog, otherwise? Because the only thing that raising your voice achieves is to communicate to your dog that you really DO NOT have control. And since I train with a modified working dog approach, I want my dog to know that I'm ALWAYS in control. Because I'm the ""Alpha dog.""

Now, if I issue a command, and the dog I'm training does not respond to that command... then I will stop to figure out why he didn't respond. If it's because he didn't understand the command, then I need to go back to basics and do more repetitions. If the dog is simply not responding because he's being stubborn or head-strong, then I'll make my correction more motivational. But one thing that many observers will realize about the way I work with animals is that my commands are practically whispered. Never yelled or screamed. In fact, your commands should only be loud enough for your dog to hear. No louder. So... do you want to know how to spot an amateur dog trainer? He's the one yelling at his dog. A word or two on consistency and teaching your dog to ""come."" If I'm teaching a dog to come on command, it's my job to convince the dog that he MUST come EVERY time I call him. But if he thinks that I'm only going to make him come every other time... or only under certain conditions... then I'll never get the dog to be 100% reliable.

So, where am I going with this line of reasoning? Well, just remember that you should NEVER give a command that you cannot enforce, until your dog is 100%. And you'll know when he is 100% when his responses to commands are immediate! Even when you're asking him to respond around the most tempting of distractions!

Do you want to be able to take your dog anywhere, and KNOW that he'll listen to you... even if tempted by another dog, a cat, or even a piece of food??? Then check out: ""Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer: An Insider's Guide To The Most Jealously Guarded Dog Training Secrets In History!"" By Adam G. Katz, Owner of South Bay K-9 Academy and Dog Problems.com. For more information, go to:Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer! http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

About the author: Author, "Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer!" which you can read more about at: http://tinyurl.com/4efaq

Dog Health Conditions and Terms You Should Know...

Author: Daniel Lesser

Some Dogs like Boxers unfortunately, are prone to several potential health problems such as:

- Skin allergy - Food allergy - Cancer - Hip dysphasia - Bloat - Heart ailments - Hypothyroidism - Fleas - Worms

Knowing what they are will help you to better monitor your pet's health and to gather the pertinent information, in case of an illness, that would assist your veterinarian to administer the correct diagnosis and treatment. Below are some common afflictions of Boxers. Alapechia (Lost of hair on the trunk)

Seems to be more common in male Boxers.

One, which died at the age of 12 years and 4 months, was diagnosed with seasonal alopecia. ""He used to go bald once a year but the hair always grew back on,"" said its owner.

Bloat

Gastric torsion or GDV or bloat in your Boxer can be life threatening so bring him to the veterinarian immediately.

The stomach gets filled with air and twisting and this can happen suddenly. The symptoms include restlessness, drooling and nausea and the stomach is bloated (distended abdomen). Your Boxer may vomit and continue to retch but nothing would come out.

Cancerous and benign tumors

Boxers are highly prone to cancer.

So any time you see a bump on your Boxer, you should check it out. About 20 out of 100 cases are cancerous.

Watch out for both external and internal lumps, eye ulcers or cherry eye as they called it, as well as dermodicosis or skin sores.

Mast cell tumors are malignant and they do not occur very often but can form either in the skin or within the body.

The related disorders reported along such tumors are round raised masses in the skin of your Boxer, lack of appetite, vomiting and abdominal pain. Check for tarry stools due to bleeding in the upper intestinal tract.

Boxers of any age can develop mast cell tumor but older ones, above 8 years, are more prone to it.

Never take tumors in your Boxers lightly, even a small one! The veterinarian would usually have them removed immediately because of their high susceptibility to cancer. One owner noticed her Boxer had a bump the size of a mosquito bite that did not go away even after 10 days. The vet diagnosed it a malignant tumor and removed it the very next day. The owner felt so relieved that the tumor was removed before the cancer had a chance to spread.

Another owner found both his Boxer girls had lumps and had it checked out immediately. The vet removed the lumps due to their breed and the Boxers were all fine now!

Yet another owner was not so lucky.

""I have had the pleasure of raising two great Boxers but both passed away much too young of cancer. The last one, Nick, died one week after being diagnosed with anal cancer. It spread rapidly and he was only 7 years old!""

Daniel Lesser article url: http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health.php

About the author: Daniel Lesser Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com

Dog Health Conditions and Terms You Should Know, Part 3...

Author: Daniel Lesser

Continued from part two.

Epilepsy/seizure disorder

When your Boxer is between 2 to 5 years old, he may develop seizure disorder.

When he has an epilepsy attack, he'd be unconscious and may look like he is not breathing but he is. He is not suffering.

The information that would be important to your veterinarian regarding such episodes includes:

> Duration of the attack

> The type of muscular activity your Boxer exhibits during seizure

> Any abnormal behavior during the attack

> Frequency of the seizure

What you do in such instances is not panic and time the attack by actually looking at a watch or clock.

It may only take place for 30 seconds but may seem forever to you. You need a veterinarian if it lasts more than 5 minutes.

Emergency treatment is definitely called for if your Boxer goes into seizure for 10 minutes or longer, twice in the span of 24 hours, or if he has a second attack before he could completely recover from the first seizure attack.

Remain by your Boxer's side; be there when he comes out of the seizure to calm him. Stroke and comfort him.

To keep your Boxer from hurting himself during the seizure, move away furniture from the immediate area and protect him from water, the stairs and any sharp objects. If you can, place a pillow under his head to protect him from head trauma.

Unlike seizure attacks in human, animals do not swallow their tongue. So you don't have to put your hand or spoon or any other object into your Boxer's mouth when he has an attack. You might get bitten.

Also, keep children and other pets away from your sick Boxer.

Coming out of the seizure, your Boxer will be groggy, confused and feel like he has done something wrong. He may make unusual sounds and stumble around.

Do not allow him on the stairs until he has fully recovered. In the mean time, sooth him by talking to him softly, offer him some water, stroke and comfort him.

And if he doesn't recover fully after 30 minutes, consult your veterinarian or any emergency vet facility.

Flea-infected Boxers

Flea-infected Boxers can develop skin diseases especially those allergic to fleas.

Black specs in the fur and bite marks on the skin tell if your Boxer has them. To check further, spread some newspapers and place your Boxer on top. Brush him and look for the black specs falling off.

Fleas live up to 6 weeks, feeding on blood and during that time would have laid hundreds of eggs that mostly land on your Boxer's bedding, carpets and other favorable nests around your home.

The eggs hatch into larvae that seek nice, dark places while feeding on flea's droppings, dust, human shed skin, dandruff and other such tasty morsels.

The larvae turn into hardy pupae that could survive for months before changing into adult fleas.

Fleas are host to tapeworms. Both problems are likely to occur together in your Boxer and, therefore, the treatments are also usually given together by the vet.

A bit of garlic a day may keep the fleas away from your Boxer.

Heart ailments

-Bradycardia or slow heart rate may be a symptom of thyroid disorder in Boxers.

-Dialated cardiomyopathy constitutes a serious, emergency case.

Your dog may collapse from it or the back legs have sudden pain and paralysis.

It is a serious heart condition whereby the heart muscle is enlarged and thin walled. Your Boxer will experience shortness of breath, coughing and can't take to exercise.

Another serious heart condition is called cardiac conduction disease that is affecting Boxer's longevity. It was previously known as Boxer cardiomyopathy but the new term is used to differentiate it from dilative cardiomyopathy.

Cardiac conduction is difficult to deal with due to 3 factors.

-One is many Boxers will not show any symptom (asymptotic) but will just drop dead suddenly from it.

-The Boxers develop this disease later in life, often after they have been bred.

-There was no good screening method for it until the one recently developed by Ohio State University researchers, called the 24-hour Holter monitor test.

However, there is still no assurance that Boxers ""cleared"" now from cardiac conduction disease by the Holter test will remain so in the future.

Many breeders and Boxer experts are now working to refine the test procedures, expand the database and come up with a guideline to select only, for breeding purposes, those Boxers with high probability of being free of the disease.

There are also concerns elimination of too many dogs from the gene pool would be bad for the breed diversity and could cause more problems in the future. Some opinions hold that extensive culling should only get done after more studies on genetic diversity in Boxers.

Hip dysplasia

This is a bone disorder whereby there is an improper fit of the large femur bone with the hip socket, causing lots of pain and lameness.

It occurs more in male

Daniel Lesser Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com

Part 1 is available at http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health.php Part 2 is available at http://www.thingsfordogs.com/dog-health2.php

About the author: Daniel Lesser Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com

17 Tips That'll Safeguard You and Your Family From Dog Bites or Attack

Author: Robin Shortt

Did you know that more than one million north americans will be bitten by dogs this year, and about one million dog bites will go unreported.

Its sad but most of the victims will be children. These dog bites will come from animals known to them. Unleashed dogs will account for most

of the bites inflicted.

What Makes Dogs Bite

Not being educated and pet owners not being committed on training their pet is what leads to most of these dog bites. We must realize that dogs don't normally become a part of our families already trained.

Why Then Do Dogs Bite?

1.They will bite if scared, angry, or threatened. Even a dog thats friendly will bite.

2.If he feels he's cornered or crowded.

3.They will protect what they think belongs to them. Like their food, toys.

4.Dogs will protect their space such as sleeping area, yard, porch, cars and home.

5.Dogs are predatory by nature and love to chase and attack.

6.A stray dog may feel upset being lost or hurt and bite with alot less provocation.

7.A dog being startled may lash out and bite.

How to Prevent Bites

8.Teaching young children to be careful around pets. Don't allow children to play rough or allow pupies to bite. Not even play biting.

9.Teach your children never get close to strange dogs.

10.Leave a dogs things alone like food, toys, bones, ect.

11.Most injuries are caused by getting too close to a dogs face with your own.

12.Refain from running past a dog. They love to chase. Avoid getting a dog excited or aggressive, by yelling and screaming.

13.You never want to pet a dog thats eating, sleeping or careing for its puppies.

14.Stay away from dogs that are tied up or in cars.

15.You should always ask permission from a pet owner to pet his dog. Even if he's present and the dog's on a leash.

16.Refrain from swinging your arms or things you have at a dog. It may think its an invitation to bite.

17.You should never pet stray dogs or ones running loose.

Its great to have a dog go on a hike or walk on a trail with you but we humans need to treat dogs with respect. Just remember to teach your children how act around dogs, it will keep them safe.

About the author: Val and Robin Shortt are experienced campers and own three outdoor websites For more tips like these and to register for their Free newsletter visit: Good Night Camping Equipment

How To Prevent Dog Bites

Author: Lateef Olajide

It is very certain that there is no guarantee that your dog will never bite someone under any condition which you may not even predict. However, you can reduce the risk attached to dog bite. The popular saying is that prevention is better than cure.

Since prevention of dog bites is not the responsiblity of dog owners alone, here we will be discussing preventive measures the prospective dog owners, dog owners, parents, and general member of the public can make instant use of.

Preventive measures applicable to potential dog owners

The first thing you must do before you think of bringing in a dog to your househood is to first evaluate your environment and your lifestyle.

Though their is no breed that will not under any condition which you may not predict, however it is still very important for you to consult professionals like veterinarian, dog behaviorist and breeder to determine the breed that will be suitable for you, your family and most especially that will be suitable for your environment. Obtainning breed specification will help you alot in avoiding any possible future trouble.

Prospective dog owner should not buy a dog that is bellow 8 weeks of age. Puppy bellow this age will not have the opportunity to learn bite inhibition from his litter mate at all.

Buying dog that is above 4 months is a bit risky to be introduce to your home as you may not predict the dog behavior. However, if you are to buy older dog at all make sure that you did not purchase a do with any history of aggression.

If any of your children exhibit any fear or apprehension of dogs, make sure you delay bringing in a dog. You should know earlier if you seek your children's opinion during your evaluation of your environment. However, if your child is no yet 6 years of age it is adviciable to hold the purchase of large dog.

Preventive measures for dog owners

According to Human Society of the United States resports spayed and neutered dogs are three times less like to bite. Thus is is highly essential for you to spay and neuter you dogs. Doing this will reduce their frequent aggressive tendency.

As a dog owner it is very important that you socialize your dog. If you socialize your dog well it will be much likely you will experience dog bite. Socializing you dog help boost it's confidence and reduce it's been nervours or frightened under normal circumstances.

So socialize your dog very well by introducing your dog to your member of family, other people, and experiences that could possibly course nervousness and fear biting in future. Do this and make it feel at ease with people and other dogs.

Dog training will also help you in preventing dog bite. You have to learn proper training techniques by attending dog training class. Attending these classes will help you socialize your dog. Train your dog to respond to some basic comands such as ""stay, ""leave it"" and ""come"". Also train you dog to drop his toys on command . If you don't do this you will have to retrieve it from his mouth. Thus taking risk of your finger been bitten.

Teach your dog acceptable behaviors by enrolling in an obediece class. Attending this class you dog will be trained to be submissive and respect your leadership in the house. Games like ""tug of war"", ""wresling"",""siccing the dog on another person"" should not be avoided as it encourages aggression.

For continuation of this article and other interested advice on dog bite prevention Visit http://www.dog-bite-prevention.com

About the author: Editor and publisher of Dog Bite Prevention newsletter at www.dog-bite-prevention.com

Dog Tips: Learn How To Read Your Pit Bull Terrier

Author: Tim Amherst

Dog training is an art and there are right ways to go about it, as well as wrong ways. An often overlooked aspect of dog training is how your dog communicates back to you. If you want to successfully train your American Pit Bull Terrier, you'll have to work hard on understanding how he communicates with you.

You'll only be able to form a close bond where you understand your Pit and he understands you, when you can read his non-verbal body language. An excellent way to begin learning about your Pit Bull's body language is to watch his interaction with other dogs. This is just another benefit that you'll get from a properly socialized dog.

So what things should you look for specifically? Watch how your dog responds to the movements of other dogs. How does he greet dogs he knows? Dogs he doesn't recognize?

Ask yourself these questions when you are learning about your dog's communication language and actions. Reading books about wolf behavior is another thing that you can do to greatly improve your understanding of dog communication.

""Why study wolf behavior?"" you ask? Wolf behavior and dog behavior are closely related. Since they are both so similar, the interactions of wild wolves gives us a chance to monitor their communication habits without any human interference.

Most dogs, if not all of them, have a habit of licking people's faces and mouths. You many not understand why dogs do this, but close observation of wolves has shown that wolf puppies are fed by the older wolves in the pack through regurgitation. Mouth and face licking persists as they get older as a way of greeting another animals.

Spend some time trying to understand your dog and closely watching his communication habits. Before long, you'll understand him better and the bond you share will be even stronger!

About the author: To learn all about American Pitbull Terriers and training a Pitbull , visit http://www.pitbullsrevealed.com/ today.

Tips on Choosing a Boxer Dog...

Author: Daniel Lesser

An easier and more pleasant journey with your chosen Boxer starts with checking out the parent dogs for unbecoming traits like aggression, hyperactive and extreme shyness.

This is easier to do when you get your Boxer from a reputable breeder or from a pet shop that get their animals only from known breeders.

Exercise prudence if you are getting your Boxer puppy from pet stores, which often get their supply from breeders of unknown reputation.

These ""puppy mills"" as they are called are not known to put much emphasis on the quality and health of pups they are producing.

Reputable breeders would adhere to the accepted standards for Boxers in terms of uniformity in the breed, good health, temperament, size and color.

Reputable breeders would be able to show the pedigree and registration papers and/or pictures of the parent dogs that may reside somewhere else.

Professional breeders are also there to produce dog show champions or prospects.

Even if you are not looking to raise a show champion Boxer, known breeders can provide you with some ""best buy"" puppies because not all the puppies in a litter are show prospect/champion materials.

But the full litter would have had benefited from the same proven bloodlines, nutrition and medical care. So you can choose from among the good-looking brothers or sisters of potential champion for a bargain.

Your other source option is animal shelters that in the US alone receive up to 12 million homeless dogs and cats every year, and about 25% of them are purebred. Paying the adoption fee is a lot cheaper than the price you will pay to a breeder or pet store, and you will be saving a life.

The definition of good stock or purebred must include beauty, and in a Boxer good look means the coat is fawn and brindle, with the white markings or ""flash"" covering not more than one-third of the entire coat.

Sometimes the distribution of the ""flash"" alone may make the difference between a show champion and just a pet Boxer.

The all-white Boxer or ""check"" is prone to blindness and deafness, and the American Boxer Club members are not to register, sell or use the ""whites"" for breeding.

When it comes to choosing male or female Boxers, there are not much clear-cut differences in their personalities.

At times, the male is calmer, more tolerant of other dogs, willing to hold still for those hugs than the female. But at other times, the female can be so. One owner said the female Boxer is hyper and more aggressive especially toward other females, and that the aggression has increased as the female gets older.

Daniel Lesser article url: http://www.thingsfordogs.com/choosing-your-dog.php

About the author: Dog and Puppy Articles, Pictures and Resources http://www.thingsfordogs.com

Life long nutrition for your dog.

Author: Jon Dunkerley

Life Long Nutrition By Jon Dunkerley (slaboflab)

www.web-rover.com

This article discusses two foods in paticual. For the puppy stage, Eagle Pack Puppy food and for the adult stage, Royal CaninLabrador Retriever 30

Puppy Nutrition When deciding on the nutritional components that will determine the diet of my pups it is important to recognize and keep the following key factors at the forefront:

- The pups will mature quickly, meaning that they will need the best diet possible to allow them to safely grow with the aid of the necessary amounts of the 6 major nutrients present

- Starting at birth and lasting for the first 5-6 weeks of life, my pups will need a high quality Colostrum based formula due to them not being able to ween at birth. After researching various formulas, I have selected the following: Artho Formula

This is a blend of New Life Colostrum (vital for the pups when first born to stimulate body functions), glucosamine sulfate, MSM, acetyl myristoleate, lipase enzyme, coated with beta-lipid. Attributes

- Helps increase bioavailability and absorption of nutrients in the body and helps decrease the bioavailability of iron to pathogens * MSM, a natural form of sulfur helps in the prevention of free radical damage and helps support joint and cartilage function * Glucosamine sulfate contains sulfur, an element important to the biochemical synthesis of connective tissue * Cetyl myristoleate helps support joint and cartilage function. It is paired with a lipase enzyme in order to help increase its absorption and assimilation in the body Due to the importance of Colostrum, below you will find a detailed breakdown of the nutritional make up of this vital component to my pup's healthy first few weeks of life. Pure Colostrum Guaranteed Analysis and Nutritional Breakdown Ingredient Amount Moisture 7% Ash 4.80% Protein 60% Calcium 0.26% Lactose Monohydrate 15% Phosphorus 0.24% Magnesium 0.4% Sodium 0.07% Potassium 0.14% Holine 0.12% Cobalt 0.06% Iron 0.06% Lysine 7.65% Methionine 1.88% Cistein Trace Arginine 4.82% Triptophan 1.66% Histidine 2.76% Isoleucine 8.57% Leucine 8.57% Phenylalanin 4.61% Threonine 7.45% Valine 8.17% Half life 16 hours

Feeding Directions

(1x480 mg tablet mixed with 3-5oz of warm water three times daily daily total = 1440mg) Feeding Chart Week Amount Daily Fed/Mg 1 3x480mg = 1440mg 2 3x480mg = 1440mg 3 3x480mg = 1440mg 4 3x480mg = 1440mg 5 3x480mg = 1440mg

Some believe that proper Colostrum supplementation should consist of more than what is stated above, however, this is just opinion, and there is no evidence that proves this theory.

- The Structural Growth period (0 to 18 months) is the most important stage of the development of my pups meaning that during this phase of their lives, it is crutial for them to consume high quality premium or home prepared food.

- Along with my formula, I will be eventually feeding my pups a premium puppy food up until they are 15 to 16 months of age, (Eagle Pack Large/Giant Formula) which upon my research, appeared to be the best suited to the needs of my Labrador pups. When considering a puppy food, one must take into account the quality of ingredients, and what these ingredients mean to the growth of my pups. For my pups to thrive, they need and will receive the best possible ingredients which when combined will produce an optimum food to enable them to grow safely, and consistently in regards to their breed specifications.

Eagle Pack Analysis

The Eagle Pack puppy food I chose has in my opinion the best combination of ingredients for consumption by my pups. Some of the key ingredients include:

- 7 skin and coat conditioners consisting of; chicken fat, flax seed, avocado oil, herring meal, lecithin, vitamin E, and biotin. This is a rare combination and is only found in top quality puppy formula. The main purpose of these conditioners is to allow for a nice shiny healthy coat with healthy skin underneath

- Premium chicken meal, rice, and herring meal provide great taste as well as extra protein and fat which allow for a great foundation for growth In order to show the extensive process of creating a high calorie-quality puppy food, below is the entire ingredient list with the above key ingredients included: Chicken meal, brown rice, ground rice, rice bran, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols and ascorbic acid), flax seed, dehydrated alfalfa meal, avocado oil, herring meal, lecithin, brewers dried yeast, natural flavoring, monosodium phosphate, choline chloride, rosemary extract, sage extract, ferrous sulfate, dl-alpha tocopherol acetate (source of vitamin E), zinc oxide, sodium selenite, manganous oxide, riboflavin supplement (source of vitamin B complex), copper sulfate, zinc methionine, iron proteinate, manganese proteinate, copper proteinate, cobalt proteinate, niacin, vitamin B12 supplement, vitamin A supplement calcium pantothenate, d-biotin supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), calcium iodate, thiamine mononitrate (source of vitamin B1), folic acid, vitamin D3 supplement, bromelain, papain, dried bacillus subtilis fermentation product, dried aspergillus oryzae fermentation product. Advantages

- Like most specific puppy formulated food, Eagle Pack's Puppy Formula is designed for optimum growth. With high protein, nutrient and fat content, the building blocks for continued growth are present and I would expect my pups to do very well while consuming this product

- Low stool volume is a big advantage and is strictly due to the chicken meal and rice formula allowing for better digestibility, which in turn, allows for more nutrients and vitamins to be absorbed by the puppies

- Palatability is maintained by the presence of vitamin E and C, meaning that no preservatives are used

- Eagle Pack Puppy Formula is pressure cooked to ensure that the highest nutrient and vitamin level is present Guaranteed Analysis

Ingredient Percentage

Crude Protein 26% Crude Fat 16% Crude Fibre 4% Moisture 10% Phosphorus 1% Calcium 1.25%

At approximately 5 weeks of age, I will start reducing the ""Artho"" and introducing my puppies to the ""Eagle Pack"" kibble mushed in warm water. Feeding Chart Week/Month Daily Amount Daily Caloric Intake 5-6 wks of life 2x ¼ cup 188 7 wks of life 2x ½ cup 372 8 wks of life = 2 months 2x ¾ cup 564 10 wks of life 2x 1/1 cup 744 12 wks of life = 3 months 2x1 ¼ cup 838 16 wks of life = 4 months 2x1 ¼ cup 838 20 wks of life = 5 months 2x1 ½ 932 24 wks of age = 6 months 2x1 ¾ 1308 24 wks of life-36 wks of life= 9 months of life 2x2 cup 1488 36 wks of life-48 wks of life = 12 months 2x2 cup 1488 12 months of life-14 months of life 2x2 cup 1488 Weeks of Life Pup Food Ration, Adult Food Ration

Total Daily Ration 57 wks of life = 14 ¼ months 75%, 25% 100% 58 wks of life = 14 ½ months 50%, 50% 100% 59 wks of life = 14 ¾ months 25%, 75% 100% 60 wks of life = 15 months 0%, 100% 100%

Now that phase two of my nutrition plan is complete, I need to move to phase three, which is the adult phase of life. I have always been a believer in the commonly used phrase, ""you are what you eat"" and with this in mind, I have researched the wide selection of adult dog food found on today's' market and in doing so have come across a company that goes the extra mile in regards to their research, dedication, and determination to provide the best adult dog food on the market. Royal Canin, a dog food manufacturer based in Europe, stands head and shoulders above all other food manufacturers based on their track record, attention to detail, testimonials, and their determination to provide the best diet possible for any given breed. Yes, this company has started to provide specific diets for specific breeds based on the differing needs that different breeds incur.

Knowing this fact, made it impossible for me not to choose this manufacturer to provide my Labrador with a life long healthy diet. Labrador Retriever 30™ Formula coupled with love an all the affection I can give, will provide my Labrador the optimum foundation for a long healthy mischievous life. (I can't wait!) Labrador Retriever 30™ Formula Unlike other similarly sized dogs, the Labrador tends to have less muscle mass, and an ability to gain weight just by looking at the food dish. When you combine the ""labrador beg"" which usually wins him something from the human supper table, with the lazy metabolism and chronic greed of the Labrador, you get the ""porky Labrador."" This obviously is bad news and can promote numerous disease factors such as bloat, obesity, poor joints, etc. Taking all these factors into account, Royal Canin set out to develop a specifically formulated food for the Labrador retriever. They determined that by Promoting high protein and low fat, the Labrador would receive the building blocks to a well balanced diet and would be most likely to hold a proper bodyweight in relation to their specific height and activity level.

Ingredients List

Chicken meal, brown rice, corn gluten, oatmeal, barley, brewers rice, chicken fat (naturally preserved with mixed tocopherols), natural chicken flavor, beet pulp (sugar removed), cellulose, fish oil, zeolite, soya oil, potassium chloride, sodium tripolyphosphate, salt, choline chloride, chicory extract, borage oil, taurine, calcium carbonate, inositol, niacin supplement, vitamin E supplement, L-carnitine, glucosamine hydrochloride, ascorbic acid (source of vitamin C), chondroitin sulfate, calcium pantothenate, marigold extract, tyrosine, zinc oxide, pyridoxine hydrochloride (source of vitamin B6), rosemary extract, thiamine mononitrate (source of vitamin B1), riboflavin supplement (source of vitamin B2), zinc proteinate, iron sulfate, manganous oxide, vitamin A supplement, manganese proteinate, folic acid, copper sulfate, copper proteinate, biotin, calcium iodate, vitamin D3 supplement, sodium selenite, vitamin B12 supplement.

Guaranteed Analysis, Feeding Method Ingredient Percentage Crude Protein 30% Crude Fat 13% Crude Fibre 5.7% Moisture 10% Vitamin E 600mg/kg Vitamin C 300mg/kg L-Carnitine 200mg/kg Lutein 5mg/kg Glucosamine 780mg/kg Chondroitin 220mg/kg Feeding Method Calories Per Cup Portion Controlled 293 Amount Fed Daily Calorie Intake 2x 3 cup 879x2 = 1758 Advantages

- Contains numerous skin and coat conditioners to help maintain a nice healthy shiny coat

- Contains antioxidants such as glucosamine and chondroitin to aid in joint maintenance

- Contains taurine which has been proven to aid in heart health

- A high protein level allows for muscle mass maintenance

- Specific components when combined together have been proven to slow down the aging process. Some of these include; vitamins C and E, taurine, zinc, selenium, chondroitin, and other antioxidents

- Meets all standards provided by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) The final stage of my nutrition plan is based on the nutritional requirements for my dog when he becomes a senior. (9-10 years of age) Although we do not like thinking of our dogs one day becoming seniors, getting old is one of life's few guarantees and it is because of this fact that we need to look out for the well being of our pets when they reach this point of their lives.

After researching the hundreds of possible senior based dog foods, I have decided to keep my Labrador on the Labrador Retriever 30™ Formula. I have decided this because this food has all the necessary components that senior dogs need and I feel that my Labrador will do very well on this food in his elder years. Also by not switching food, I avoid the potential of temporary setbacks during the transition from adult to senior foods. Advantages

- We all know that as dogs get older, they tend to spend more of their time sprawled on the couch: therefore, by feeding my couch potato Labrador Retriever 30™ Formula, his fat intake will remain low and his protein intake will remain high to help him retain his muscle mass

- Joint protection will be aided by the presence of glucosamine and chondroitin

- In order to aid the digestive tract chicory extract has been added to help regulate this vital body system. (fructo-oligosaccharides) Has your dog been a really good boy lately???

About the author: For more information on dog products or dog training check out http://www.dogsbydunk.com

WHAT'S IN A DOG'S NAME: 5 TIPS FOR FINDING THE RIGHT NAME FOR YOUR BEST FRIEND

Author: Dean Erickson

Your choice of pet name is important. Here are some things to think about before naming your pet.

Your dog's name says as much about your pet as it does about you. There are literally hundreds of potential names you can give your dog, but it has to be the right one. Your dog will become a unique member of your family and his or her name will heard often. So, it's of vital importance to get it right.

Browse the Internet websites that are dedicated to dogs for dog name suggestions. You'll find ideas for female dog names, male dog names, cute dog names, even Latin dog names!

You choice of name can depend on one or more of the following categories:

1. Choose a dog name according to gender.

Do you have a boy dog or a girl dog? Maybe you want to choose a dog's name that reflects its gender. The most popular female canine names in the US today are Molly, Lady, Princess and Missy, to name a few. The most popular male canine names are Sam, Max, Duke and Rocky, to name only a few.

2. Choose a dog name according to your pet's physical characteristics.

Every dog, regardless of its breed, has certain unique physical characteristics. Every breed comes with its own set of physical attributes: coat, markings, color or size, but each dog is unique. Pinpoint the uniqueness in your dog and come up with a unique dog name that reflects your dog's singularity.

3. Choose a dog name according to your pet's character or personality.

As with physical characteristics, every dog has its own personality beyond the characteristics of its breed. Get to know your dog a little before you decide on its name.

3. Choose a dog name according to your pet's breed.

Do you have a German shepherd or Labrador? Do you have a Maltese Terrier or Poodle? These breeds are traditional breeds and we've come to associate them with specific types of names inspired by their appearance and pedigree. Golden retrievers are often called Sunny or Goldie. Pure breed dogs tend to demand more impressive names, while strays tend to be given cuter names.

5. Choose a dog name according to your interests.

You may be a classics scholar or a music lover. You may like fast cars or a certain world city. Maybe you want to choose a name for your dog that's related to the hobbies and interests that inspire your life. Maybe you read Horace? That's an impressive name for an impressive dog. Maybe your all-time favorite city in the world is Sydney? Then call your dog Sydney. This is one way of ensuring a unique dog name that has extra significance for you.

Remember: dog names should be no more than one or two syllables. They should not sound similar to other names within the family and should definitely not sounds like commands. Remember that the name will last for the term of the dog's life, so try to think ahead and be certain that the name you choose will suit the dog (and you) in the years to come.

About the author: Dean Erickson. Journalist, and web site builder Dean Erickson lives in Texas. He is the owner and co-editor of dog-names-directory.info on which you will find a longer, more detailed version of this article.

How To Completely Ignore Valentine's Day Without Having To Sleep In The Dog House

Author: Julie Hunt

Forget the mass marketed, red hearted Valentine Day pressure that starts heating up about now. Steer clear of high priced flowers, tasteless candy hearts and stuffed bears. Follow these tips to make the woman you love feel cherished.

Tell her Valentine's Day means more than romance and gifts. It means she'll be the focus of your caring attention, dutiful doting and loving affection.

Here are 9 quick tips to escape the Valentine's Day commercialism and still snuggle with your hunny!

1. Concentration is the Name of the Game. Guys, you have an amazing ability to focus and solve problems! Focus on how special she is to you. Instead of stressing about the perfect Valentine's gift, think about all the fun, silly, spunky, sexy, serious and loving things that she does for you. Chances are she's doing exactly what she wants you to do in return. Think about who she is. What makes her smile? What she is truly passionate about? What small little things could you do at home every day that would make her feel more loved? Get out your love tools!

2. Under Promise and Over Deliver. Make promises early and make them often…just keep them. No emergency is more important than her love. Show your love and respect for her by honoring your time together and your commitments. Leave work early and call her on the way home and tell her you just couldn't wait to see her. Ask her if she'd like you to pick up something special before you get there.

3. Be a Mirror. We reflect the world around us… the good, the bad and the ugly. Be mindful of her moods. When she approaches you with love and joy, mirror it back to her and she'll feel especially loved and close to you. Or, if she's had an especially bad day, initiate her cheerful reflection by filling up the bathtub with floating candles and tell her to soak in the flickering flames of reflective delight.

4. Note It. Love notes are a sure way to inspire a loving connection everyday of the year. They don't all have to be sappy poems. Buy a calendar, keep it in the bathroom and write a reason a day that you appreciate and admire her. Follow her to the store or the dry cleaners and leave a note on her car in the parking lot. Drop them in her purse or write them on the bathroom mirror with a dry erase pen for her to wake up to. If you were thinking more along the lines of tagging the freeway overpass try 24 hour disappearing ink.

5. Dream Date. Take her on a dream date that won't cost you a dime. Tell her the only topic of conversation is to hear about her dreams. What she loves. What she wants to do before she leaves the planet. What she'd like to learn. Where she'd like to travel. Who she most admires. Let her talk freely without stopping then write a few down later and help her create her dreams.

6. Use Actions and Words. Show her how much you love her by going out of your way to do little things and then reinforce it by telling her. "I'd be happy to _____ because I want to show you how much I appreciate you" or… "I knew you'd feel special coming home to _____." or… "I wanted to show you how much I love by _____." If this seems like too much work you can get a list of Valentine's Day heartfelt expressions at www.shesite.com. You won't have to depend on your own creative loving juices and she'll still hear how much you care. 7. Hugs for Health. 4 hugs for survival. 8 hugs for maintenance. 12 hugs for growth. Each and everyday.

8. Bon Appetite. Cook her favorite food. Pick up restaurant delivery and the biggest chocolate dessert you can find on the way home; or have one of the online gourmet delivery options deliver a 5 course meal to your doorstep. Dim the lights. Start with the chocolate first. Put on an old Sinatra CD and tell her you fully expect that she may not even have an ounce of room in her belly for the Pecan Crusted Salmon main course. Get an easy recipe for an intensely chocolate experience with a rich decadent fudgey center at www.shesite.com. This alone will buy you blissful hours of love!

9. Sleep Tight Wishes and Bedtime Kisses. Make the very last moment of her day special by kissing her softly, accommodating a simple request like water or Kleenex, pull the covers up to her chin, touch her forehead and tell her you love her. Give her a kiss on the shoulder first thing in the morning too.

And if that doesn't free you up from the Valentine's Day trap, forget the diamonds and make her a handmade sweetheart style, metal shop charm that she can keep close to her heart. There's nothing more heartwarming than your thoughtfulness, love and handy attention!

WARNING:

DON'T be a complete knuckle head, buy her a card!

For more simple happy fun essentials for every other day of the year, take a peek at www.shesite.com.

About the author: Julie Hunt is pure delight and motivation. She's a free flowing source of hope, energy and inspiration who tells it like it is giving straight forward and simple tips and advice so you can live happier days and obliterate the monotony of life at www.shesite.com

Breed Specific Legislation - Is your dog next?

Author: Jason Mann

Breed specific legislation otherwise known as "BSL" has started to sweep the world. Germany, Canada, The United States, France, and England are among the major countries that have enacted some form of breed specific law that restricts or calls for a complete ban on several breeds from existing peacefully within their borders.

American Pit Bull Terriers or anything that remotely resembles a "Pit Bull" are among the most commonly listed breeds in BSL proposals.

Even more horrible is that fact these laws do not even take into consideration the individual dog's history but instead lumps them all together under one classification.

In most cases this means they are labeled as dangerous. Ultimately forcing the well behaved dogs to be seen and classified along with the dogs that have in fact bitten or attacked someone.

In short, if you have a highly decorated Search and Rescue Pit Bull your dog is seen as deadly as the dog that has been drugged up, abused, and forced to attack.

Breed specific legislation is nothing more then a band-aid law makers have placed over a massive head wound. What I find ironic is they truly feel these laws are going to help the public deal with the Pit Bull dilemma.

When in fact, nothing could be further from the truth and the public is mislead by thinking that if Pit Bulls are banned or restricted this is going to somehow stop irresponsible owners from allowing their dogs to continue to create havoc in the streets.

What will it take before people realize these laws are completely useless and enacting them only serves to tie the responsible owner's hands behind their backs?

Not to mention it creates the public image their dogs are dangerous and potentially vicious. This creates further problems for the owners because their neighbors become afraid and call for their removal from the neighborhood.

Some might think this is a paranoid outlook on the situation. Tell that to the woman whose Bull Terrier was set on fire in Germany soon after the country enacted its breed specific legislation.

Will you sit back and let this happen?

Even if you do not share your life with the American Pit Bull Terrier or a dog on these breed specific lists, it is your duty as a dog owner to do something about it.

If you would like more information you can download a killer Breed Specific Legislation package at:

http://www.understand-a-bull.com/BSL/fightBSLDownloads.htm

What are you waiting for?

About the author: Jason Mann operates http://www.PitBullLovers.com a positive American Pit Bull Terrier website devoted to educating the public about the true nature of the worlds most versatile breed of canine.

How to Protect your Dog and Family from Roundworms.

Author: Jennifer Bryant

Nearly every puppy in the world is born with roundworms. This is because the roundworm's larvae are transmitted from the mother to the puppy while it is still in the womb. A female dog can harbor roundworms in her tissue, often making them immune to dewormings. The roundworms then have the opportunity to emerge during pregnancy through the mother's bloodstream and infect the unborn puppies. Roundworms can also be transmitted to newborn puppies through the mother's milk during nursing.

Roundworms are also easily transmitted to humans. Young children are most susceptible because they are always sticking their fingers in their mouths! Roundworms are transmitted to humans and dogs through eggs that are in a dog or puppy's stool. They can either be ingested through direct eating of the stool or by eating something else that has eaten the stool (the dog eats a bird, mouse, etc. that has eaten the dog's stool).

Everyone should wash their hands frequently after handling the puppy or dog and make sure that all feces is removed from the yard and disposed of on a daily basis. Most infections in people are mild and cause no symptoms at all. However there have been cases of worms migrating to the liver, brain, and eyes.

Symptoms of roundworms in humans include :

•Anemia

•Appetite Loss

•Difficulty Breathing

•Constipation

•Cough

•Cramping

•Diarrhea

•Fever

•Hives

•Itching

•Nausea

•Chest Pain

•Muscle Pain

•Passing of Worms

•Rash

•Skin Lesions

•Swelling

•Vision Disturbances

•Vomiting

•Weight Loss

Infected puppies can become quite ill and heavy infestations may lead to convulsions and even death. Most puppies that die are around the age of two to three weeks old. Puppies should be wormed at ages 2, 4, 6 and 8 weeks of age. Adult dogs should receive yearly stool samples from their veterinarian to check for worms. Roundworms will look like spaghetti in the puppy's feces.

Symptoms of roundworms in dogs include :

•Potbelly

•Diarrhea

•Gas

•Vomiting

•Lack of Energy

•Slow Growth Rate

•Dull Coat

•Coughing (if immature roundworms have migrated to the puppy's lungs)

Some dogs may show some or all of these symptoms while others may show no symptoms at all. When adult roundworms are seen in the dog's stool this is often because of ongoing disease in the bowel or sometimes because the worm burden had become so great that the worms are crowding each other out.

Treatment of roundworms is not dangerous and is highly effective. Buy your wormers from the vet and give them regularly as instructed. The tablets are not difficult to give if you train your dog to take them in tiny bits of cheese or put them into sweets. The best way to protect your family and dogs from roundworms is through a regular program of both medication and prevention (keeping the yard clean of feces).

About the author: Jennifer Bryant breeds American Pit Bull Terriers and builds websites in her spare time.

Bryant's Red Devils

Puppies and Dogs for Sale

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How to Keep Your Boxer - or any Dog - Healthy...

Author: Gord Shinh

Feed him a balanced diet.

- Give an occasional yogurt treat - Ask your vet about giving Boxers calcium tablets as they could have some problems later on in life!

- Keep him comfortable so his immune system can remain strong.

- Boxers are shorthaired and sensitive to extreme elements of the weather and thus must be kept a housedog. His shortened muzzle also makes hot and humid weather uncomfortable for him.

- Give Boxers lots of exercise and regularly.

- Remember that he is a big and strong breed and requires physical outlets for his boundless energy and high play/prey drive.

- Walk them three times a day or have play sessions. Provide plenty of space for them to bounce around. You want to keep their spirit up and not break it or they won´t be the dogs you fall in love with in the first place. Healthy and happy Boxers are a joy to live with.

- Make a breeder your friend.

- Keep in touch with the breeder who sold you the Boxer. The breeder can advise you about care and health matters that are unique to the breed. Any Boxer breeder, for that matter, can be an invaluable ally to you throughout your Boxer's life.

- Guard your Boxer from fleas.

- Your Boxer has fleas if you find black specks in the fur or fleabite marks on the skin. A tip given by an owner is to give your Boxer garlic daily to prevent fleas.

- Boxers catch fleas from other animals. It is an every day problem that, at some time or another, you can expect to encounter in your Boxer.

- The fleas only go to the Boxer to feed on its blood.

- Fleas mostly live and multiply in your home. The comfortable living - central heating, double-glazing and, best of all, the fitted carpet - we create for ourselves and our Boxers also work best for the fleas.

- De-worm your puppy every month and your adult Boxer, every six months.

-Worms Worms is another everyday problem in Boxers but the puppy is more likely to get sick from worms than the grown up Boxer.

The sick one would lose weight and become weak, suffer from upset stomach, poor growth, listlessness or even lung trouble.

They may impede your puppy´s growth and cause him to have a potbelly or be thin and have a shoddy-looking coat.

Your grown Boxer may not be showing any sign of worms but he could spread them more than the sick puppy, through large amount of larvae or eggs passed out in the feces.

If your Boxer has tapeworms, he has fleas too because part of the tapeworm life cycle occurs in flea as the host. As such, treatments against flea and tapeworm are normally prescribed together.

Some, like the roundworm, that infect dogs can also get passed on to children.

In more serious cases, your dog will catch cough, pneumonia and develop lung problems.

There are different types of worms that infect dogs such as tapeworm, roundworm, ringworm and heartworm. De-worm your Boxer puppy every month and your grown Boxer, every 6 months.

Puppies get sick from worms, more so than dogs.

But your infected grown Boxers help spread the worms more through their droppings that would contain large number of larvae and/or eggs.

Released into the surrounding, these larvae and eggs could infect other animals and even children.

The tapeworms have a flat, segmented body.

You see them as single segments or chains that resemble segments of rice in the droppings of infected canine.

Part of the tapeworm´s life cycle occurs in the flea as the host. Therefore, if your Boxer has tapeworms, it has fleas too and the treatments for both are usually prescribed together by the vet.

The roundworms (toxocara) live and produce hundreds of eggs in the intestine.

They cause digestive upset in puppies, poor growth, and thin or out-of-conditioned coat.

The infected puppies may become listless, have a potbelly or tucked in appearance.

Once the roundworms migrated from the gut to the lungs, your Boxer can suffer lung damage, cough and pneumonia.

The roundworm eggs in the dog droppings get passed out and about.

These are very hardy eggs, resistant to heat and cold, and can survive up to 7 years in the soil. The eggs can pass on to children through ingestion and cause them to fall sick as well.

As precautions, you can toilet train your Boxer puppy to use a place where you can easily clean up and dispose of the droppings into the sewer. Have your children wash their hands every time after they handle the puppies and discourage your puppies from licking people hands or faces.

http://www.1st-in-dogstuff.com/keeping-your-dog-healthy.php

About the author: Gord Shinh is the author of the website www.1st-in-dogstuff.com Boxer Dog Information, Puppy Articles, Dog Pictures, Dog Training Tips and Resources. For information, visit . Boxer Dog Information

Good dog health and happiness for Charlie

Author: Rolf Rasmusson

Good dog health and happiness for Charlie

Our Charlie's dog health was a very important issue to us in our family. It all started when he was a puppy of course. Aside from the fun and laughter he brought into our lives he brought us new found responsibilities we hadn't concerned ourselves with BC. With some common sense and attention dog health shouldn't have to be a major family issue. Here's how we dealt with Charlie.

A few dog health issues:

Feeding –

This is normally the easy and fun part. Be careful though because there's so much ballyhoo about the great stuff various products can do. Major brands are tried and true with a normally safe harbour. Avoid going off into generic diets. Competing with the major brands on research and quality control is pretty tough. Better to take the high road for your doggie's sake. Vitamin and mineral supplements would be a great addition to the diet helping to keep the immune system strong. Remember, dry food helps keep the teeth nice and strong too.

Bathing –

The primary concern here is to use a pet product. Not shampoo made for us people. We want to use a very mild shampoo. The pH balance of our doggies is quite different and if not careful we'll dry out the skin so bad that scratching, itching and all sorts of other fireworks will go off. Bath less not more. Chances are that a good wash job every 30 days or so will be just fine. Don't forget to drop a couple of plugs (cotton balls will do)into the ears before you start along with a nice brush job on the coat before and after. Keep the shampoo away from those gorgeous heart breaking eyes, if you slip simply wash with warm water or even a saline. Hey, a nice little designer outfit afterwards really makes your great little buddy a spiffy looking dude.

Those nasty tick and fleas issues –

Give me a break, how'd you like to run around itchy and biting, scratching and jumping around all day. That would be enough to drive anyone nuts. A topical oil usually placed between the shoulder blades will do the trick. Your best friends natural oils will spread it evenly over your pet. Be watchful about exposing the oil to the kids and put it in a safe place. Try and have your pet really dry for a few days before and after application. This process will rid your doggie of fleas and ticks. Good riddance for sure. A super blow on those nasty critters ensuring good dog health.

Puppy housetraining –

The all time favorite issue. Potty training! No different than when we potty trained our children, the process is somewhat similar. Patience, consistency and confinement does the trick. Do yourself a favor, get a crate for your doggie big enough for it to stretch out in and also take a snooze being able to nestle into a little corner.

Your best pet friend needs to be in there when you're asleep, gone from the premises or to be left unattended (you're busy cooking dinner and doggie treats?. Doing so teaches them to hold it for awhile. Putting them in a crate for 6 – 8 hours during the training period is alright too.

While home have your little sweetie out with a timer going off around each 60 minutes or so. You and the doggie hit the turf outside for 10 minutes or so giving them a chance to potty. When they do reward them with positive comments, petting, stroking – some real love if you will which is positive reinforcement( something we all would like to have,right?). Chances are pretty good your doggie will catch on very soon. Be patient, take your time and no accident frustrations. Your new best friend needs a little time to learn, adapt and assimilate your wishes. Keep in mind that your doggie loves you. Cleanliness goes a long way for good dog health.

About the author: Interesting dog information surrounded by love and compassion at www.dog-stuff4u.com

Dog Travel Supplies

Author: Rolf Rasmusson

Dog Travel Supplies

Buy dog travel supplies online

The shopping part along for dog travel supplies is amusing for sure. The trinkets, toys and accessories for pet product travel are a blast. Grab your favorite drink, your mouse and grease up that shopping finger and off we go to review those dog travel supplies.

We found, while shopping for Charlie pet harnesses that combine safety with convenience. The step-in padded harness is easy to fasten to your best pet friend and can also be used as a walking harness. The strap plugs into the car's seat belt buckle receptacle. It's recommend that for all pet travel you harness your doggie while driving for the protection of passengers and your little best pet friend.

Then add a nice durable car seat cover to protect your upholstery and everyone's a happy camper. These covers fit most vans, trucks, SUV's and cars with bench or fold-down seats. The outer shell is 100% polyester with a layer of foam for cushion and comfort. One side is a tan, soft pile and reversible to a durable gray polyester weave. Easy to care for, simply hand wash with a mild detergent soap and line dry. Measures 48""x 60"".

Tip: Vehicle barriers and harnesses should always be used when traveling with your dog in a car, van or SUV. They not only protect your dog, but you and your passengers as well.

Pet barriers will fit either your Car, Van or Suv. Vehicle barriers should always be used when traveling with your doggie in the car, van or SUV. They not only protect your best pet friend, but you and your passengers as well. The different styles of pet barriers will allow you to fill your needs. There are barriers for small cars, mini and full size vans and SUV's.

We also needed a pet ramp and found training Charlie to use it was pretty simple: Charlie adapted to the ramp easily but we've been told that some of our doggies don't, we suggest you put the ramp flat on the ground & walk your pet friend over it (a reward placed on the ramp also helps or you might try feeding him on the ramp once or twice). When you raise the ramp, your pets favorite treat placed towards the top of the ramp also works the first time.

We had fun snooping around for dog travel supplies. Our pets always have softened our hearts, put smiles on our faces and even released stress as our minds went shopping for our family's best pet friend. Sit back, relax and enjoy yourself after-all think of all the joy those lovable pets of ours bring into our lives.

About the author: More dog goodies and information can be found at www.dog-stuff4u.com